The squibb that won't come out

[MSD Mike]

I wonder if you could fill the barrel with oil, hammer a soft wad cutter in from the front and hydraulicy push it out? I would use a taped steel rod.
OP, if you wouldn’t mind. Maybe you could shoot another squib and try this method and let me know if it works.
Fortunately, my only squib was a soft lead bullet and was pretty easy to remove.

Mike

[HighValleyRanch]

I got the yoke retention screws from S&W today in the mail, installed one and took it down to my range to test fire for my upcoming CCW renewal in a week and half.
Shot 4 rounds of PMC .38 special factory 132 gr, FMJ, all shot slightly low at 7 o'clock. Shot 6 rounds of my 158 gr. Berry FN with 4.1 of W231 and they shot right on, in the black to the right.
3" group shot DA with heavy trigger pull at 10 yards, so will easily qualify with this one.
So glad to have this one back!

S&W sent me 1/2 dozen of the yoke screws! with the locktite already on the threads. Guess they lose a lot of them.

I found other round I had reloaded and when I measured the. powder, it came out around 4.7 grains, but some might have gotten lost in the bullet pulling.
But.....
I weighed the bullet and it ended up 90 grains, and measure .354" so that means that I mistakenly loaded my 9mm LeHighs into my .38 spl. cases which ended up causing the squibb. In puling the bullet, it only took one hard smack to dislodge the bullet, so still thinking that the undersized bullet and not enough crimp contributed to the squibb. I weighed and measured all the other bullets in that envelope and they all were the 9mm Lehigh's, so when I packed everything away a while back I mistakenly put the 9mm bullets in the envelope into the .38 special LeHigh box.

So why wouldn't an undersized bullet just come out of the barrel easier than pie? Well, I did manage to push it back with a wooden rod to the forcing cone, but I feel that pounding on it with a brass rod and trying to push it back cause the bullet hollow base to flare out to get more stuck, and light hits with the brass rod only smashed the bullet wider to make it really stuck in the barrel.
My machinist friend agreed with that theory and said that pressing it out was the way to go.

Live and learn!

[JohnKSa]

Wow. Just imagine how bad it would have been if you had stuck a 0.357" bullet!

[DaleA]

Thanks for the update.
I bet there's a lot of folk on the site that appreciate you coming back with more information.

[Aguila Blanca]

Originally Posted by JohnKSa

Wow. Just imagine how bad it would have been if you had stuck a 0.357" bullet!

Yikes!

[oldmanFCSA]

Originally Posted by 74A95

Do you use the same amount of powder that was in the original load?

I apoligize for the really late response - BUT I was in Mayo Clinic in Rochester MN since late May to September 14th losing my lower right wheel in the process. I am currently in physical rehab to learn how to walk again for a prosthesis, the process to fit the prosthesis starts November 1st.

As to answer your question, on the 50BMG target rifles we reduce the load 10-20 grains after starting out with 245-248 grains of RL-50 or VV 20N29.

[jar]

Originally Posted by oldmanFCSA

I apoligize for the really late response - BUT I was in Mayo Clinic in Rochester MN since late May to September 14th losing my lower right wheel in the process. I am currently in physical rehab to learn how to walk again for a prosthesis, the process to fit the prosthesis starts November 1st.

As to answer your question, on the 50BMG target rifles we reduce the load 10-20 grains after starting out with 245-248 grains of RL-50 or VV 20N29.

Keep up with the rehab and keep us posted on your progress.

[Skans]

I wonder if the OP ever got the bullet out? Given that it is a solid copper bullet, I would line the barrel with a brass tube and drill a hole all the way through the bullet. I would want the hole as wide as I could make it. Then, I'd use an aluminum or brass dowel to bang out the remaining part of the bullet. It should be able to deform enough to be pushed out.

[Aguila Blanca]

Originally Posted by Skans

I wonder if the OP ever got the bullet out? Given that it is a solid copper bullet, I would line the barrel with a brass tube and drill a hole all the way through the bullet. I would want the hole as wide as I could make it. Then, I'd use an aluminum or brass dowel to bang out the remaining part of the bullet. It should be able to deform enough to be pushed out.

?????

Did you read the thread? See post #35

[fastbolt]

Originally Posted by bamaranger

Hey..........good for you!

I note the inscription of " no less than 120 gr bullet weight" on the ejector shroud. That seems most interesting and I wonder if whatever engineering issue (sleeved barrel?) requiring that warning contributed to your (solved!!!!) problem?

You can read about the bullet weight restriction for the Magnum revolvers with titanium cylinders in the owner safety manual, on page 13.

CAUTION: Do not use Magnum loads with bullet weights of less
than 120 grains - This will reduce the possibility of premature erosion in titanium alloy cylinders.

https://assets.contentstack.io/v3/as..._416560000.pdf

Nothing to do with the sleeved barrel. Basically, they told us in the revolver armorer class that the powders used in factory Magnum ammunition using bullet weights of less than 120gr produced hotter gasses, which could create a risk of premature erosion of the titanium cylinder, both in the charge hole throats and on the cylinder face.

[mcb66]

A can of compressed air held upside down and sprayed will super cool and freeze whatever it touches. Like very targeted dry ice. Often times it will unstick what is stuck. it will freeze and blister fingertips so be aware.

[Skans]

No, I missed those posts. Makes me re-think using solid copper rounds.