Brownell's laquer durability

vanfunk · July 28, 1999, 03:19 PM

First, my tale of woe... The unprotected (white) top of the barrel of my SIG P220 started rusting 3 days after I brought it home from the gunshop. I removed the rust with #600 grit sandpaper, then lovingly tried to preserve it with silicone cloths, TUF-CLOTH, break-free, tetra-gun lube, gun grease-everything- and it still rusted. Finally, I've just applied some Brownell's Baking Laquer to the barrel and it looks pretty good. Now to my question- what kind of durability and rust prevention can I expect from this coating? Should I just buck up and send the darn gun off to ARS for their all-over body coat? Any P220 owners out there with similar stories/suggestions? Thanks in advance for your help.

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semper ubi sub ubi

chucko · July 28, 1999, 07:15 PM

I have a pair of P220s and the only rust problem I had was with the grip screws. I swear they could rust WHILE I was cleaning them. I solved the problem with a couple sets of black, stainless, allen head grip screws from brownells. The P220s are happy campers now.

Chuck

sant · July 28, 1999, 08:53 PM

If you bought the gun new then call SIG and tell them your problem. I`m sure they will exchange the barrel. It shouldn`t be rusting that easily. As for the Brownell`s finish, while it does offer good rust protection I have found it to offer just average abrasion resistance.

George Stringer · July 29, 1999, 06:03 AM

The lacquer isn't as tough as the Teflon but it does have a curing time and seems to get a little more abrasive resistant with time. You should wait 10 - 14 days between application and use. It won't help the lacquer as much as the Teflon but it will help. George

Grayfox · July 29, 1999, 09:29 PM

I used Brownells Baking laquer on my Commander. Works very well on the aluminum alloy frame, but scratches easily on the steel slide. It was intended for aluminum and works well on that. I don't recommend it for steel parts.

July 28, 1999, 03:19 PM	#1
vanfunk Senior Member Join Date: June 19, 1999 Posts: 472	First, my tale of woe... The unprotected (white) top of the barrel of my SIG P220 started rusting 3 days after I brought it home from the gunshop. I removed the rust with #600 grit sandpaper, then lovingly tried to preserve it with silicone cloths, TUF-CLOTH, break-free, tetra-gun lube, gun grease-everything- and it still rusted. Finally, I've just applied some Brownell's Baking Laquer to the barrel and it looks pretty good. Now to my question- what kind of durability and rust prevention can I expect from this coating? Should I just buck up and send the darn gun off to ARS for their all-over body coat? Any P220 owners out there with similar stories/suggestions? Thanks in advance for your help. ------------------ semper ubi sub ubi

July 28, 1999, 07:15 PM	#2
chucko Senior Member Join Date: May 20, 1999 Posts: 151	I have a pair of P220s and the only rust problem I had was with the grip screws. I swear they could rust WHILE I was cleaning them. I solved the problem with a couple sets of black, stainless, allen head grip screws from brownells. The P220s are happy campers now. Chuck

July 28, 1999, 08:53 PM	#3
sant Member Join Date: July 4, 1999 Posts: 25	If you bought the gun new then call SIG and tell them your problem. I`m sure they will exchange the barrel. It shouldn`t be rusting that easily. As for the Brownell`s finish, while it does offer good rust protection I have found it to offer just average abrasion resistance.

July 29, 1999, 06:03 AM	#4
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	The lacquer isn't as tough as the Teflon but it does have a curing time and seems to get a little more abrasive resistant with time. You should wait 10 - 14 days between application and use. It won't help the lacquer as much as the Teflon but it will help. George

July 29, 1999, 09:29 PM	#5
Grayfox Senior Member Join Date: December 17, 1998 Posts: 1,885	I used Brownells Baking laquer on my Commander. Works very well on the aluminum alloy frame, but scratches easily on the steel slide. It was intended for aluminum and works well on that. I don't recommend it for steel parts.