Dillon 650 and Hornady LNL Ap primer system ?

[joed]

Waldog, you are correct on the primer system of the XL650. Miss a case and the primer moves on to a ramp. Probably my only complaint with the 650, more of an inconvenience more then anything.

Timing. I've owned 550b, 650 and 1050. All have loaded over 50k on each, never a timing issue. In 12 years I have never had to adjust the timing on either of them. Maybe others have had issues but I have not.

One thing that I do and I bet the LnL is the same, is to clean the primer slides after loading about 2k of rounds. The reason for this is when you knock out the old primers the dirt and dust gets under the shell plate and into the primer slide. I do this more as a preventitive measure as the primer slide will stick eventually.

Another thing I'll mention is to make sure the press is secure to the bench. I learned pretty fast with my first 550b that if the press is not secure you'll have priming issues. I kept getting flipped primers when I first set it up. A call to Dillon got me through it.

Never owned a LnL and have nothing against them, I've just been to satisfied with Dillon support so I stay with them.

Of all the Dillon presses my favorite is the 1050, never seen anything like it. I picked up 2 used ones for $800 each. Haven't seen any for that price lately.

[jmorris]

In 12 years I have never had to adjust the timing on either of them. Maybe others have had issues but I have not.

My oldest Dillon's are over 30 years old and never "timed" any of them.

That said I only had to time one of the LNL's I had the other stayed where it needed to be.

[drain smith]

joed
After every loading session I take my shell plate off and clean everything down with a rag and alcohol, that includes the shell plate the sub plate and the primer slide. Now I am so bad I clean the allen wrench off after it was used to remove a clean bolt before I put it away.
Now before I start reloading I put everything back together. The first thing I do is graphite the primer slide, then I drop the case retainer spring into the tub of graphite and give it a shake. I then put a drop of 90 weight on each of the detente balls before I reinstall the shell plate. I then pull the case retainer spring out of the tub of graphite and tap it off right in front of the v block and using a make up brush I make sure the case slide is well covered. Then I put the spring on the shell plate and I am ready to go.

[joed]

drain smith, you do as much as I do except I don't leave the press apart. I assemble it and cover it to keep any dust out. Can't say enough about keeping things clean, it prevents a lot of problems.

[jmorris]

I blow mine off with compressed air and put lubricant where it needs to be.

[rebs]

I think I have it now. I took the primer slide out and cleaned it and lubed it. Then loaded 200 rounds without a hitch. I realize now that I just wasn't cleaning right.

[joed]

I think I have it now. I took the primer slide out and cleaned it and lubed it. Then loaded 200 rounds without a hitch. I realize now that I just wasn't cleaning right.

Most priming problems are caused by not keeping the slide and related parts clean from the primer dust. That's why you want to clean it every so often, either after every loading session or some number of rounds (I use 2k).

Use graphite, not oil on the slide, as oil will cause misery with the primer dust.

[rebs]

I used Hornady spray cleaner and dry lube. It flushes the dirt out and then dries to a dry lube. Should this be ok ?

[egd]

Since Hornady recommends this in their set-up video, I don't see why not.

[joed]

Probably OK, I've never used it. I have a paint brush that I use to get the dirt out, then wipe it down with gun cleaner and apply graphite. When you put the primer slide back in if it doesn't stick you're good.

I like the idea of using a can of air to blow the dirt out as was mentioned but have never tried it.

[Carriertxv]

Rebs that's what I've been using since getting my LNL a couple of years ago and hasn't missed a beat since.

[drain smith]

This is an air compressor that is 12 psi.

Notice the air hose between the stools and the foot switch that is used to turn it on.

The dental pick is helpful in cleaning out small pieces. I also went to Walgreens to the makeup section and bought a large assortment of brushes.

[LE-28]

I prime everything on my LNL-AP and have never had to time anything or had to adjust the primer depth on it. I have never had a jam up or had to take it apart while I was loading to get it to work.
I've got about 25000 rounds through it and it just keeps on working.

Everything I load on that press gets primed on that press and it works well.

[schmellba99]

For the rounds I load on my LnL, i use the press primer. Had to make a few mods to the system when I first bought it, but have had no issues since then.

I tweaked the timing once, only had to make a hair's worth of adjustment on the pawls. That was about 8 years ago, no issues since then.

I'm interested in understanding how the kit shown above works though, mostly because I like learning new things like this.

[drain smith]

First of all I am an old geezer, with old geezer eye balls. I wear bifocals and when I look up from below the dies to see if the shell is centered all I see is a blur. So I made a kit that I can look down threw my bifocals.

The first thing you need is a # 16 shell plate and knock the detente ball up to where they barely touch the sub plate. When you do this it keeps the balls from assisting the timing.

Then I took a 380 shell and drilled the primer pocket out one drill size larger than a primer. Then I took a drammel and cut about 1/3 of the side of the brass off so I can see all the way down to the primer pocket.

Next I took a .223 brass and trimmed it down just past the shoulder.

Now the next thing you will need is a seating die and some play-doe. You want the smallest die you can get, mine just happened to be .45.

The last thing you will need, that is not in the photo is a brass rod about 16" long the same size as a small primer. I then put it into my drill press and using a file I removed .005 for about an inch.

Now to start timing your l-n-l. The first thing to do is to make sure that you get a primer to drop into the primer slide every time. To do this loosen the bolt on the L-N-L AP bracket to where the spring pulls it forward. Now drop the brass rod down the primer tube filed side down. Now pull the bracket back until the rod drops into the hole on the slide, slowly pull the bracket until you fell resistance. The primer drop is now perfect.

Now to time the primer place the 380 brass in so you can see the primer hole and slowly push the handle forward. If you see the primer hit the left side of the hole turn the left pawl clockwise, and if it hits the right side of the primer hole turn anticlockwise. Adjust until it comes straight up with out touching the hole. The primer set is now perfect.

Now for the die adjustment, first place the .223 brass in the shell holder. Then take your setting die and fill it full of Play-doe and smooth it off. lock the die in and slowly raise the ram up until it just touches the play-doe. Pull the die out and look at it the depression should be exactly dead center. If not adjust the right pawl until perfect.

[double bogey]

Waldog you are exactly right. the problem is the side of the slide and the cup are too low, and some of the unused primers get to the floor. I fixed mine with some pieces of painters tape to raise the sides up. My only gripe about the 650. She makes masses of ammo fast.

[THEWELSHM]

The lnl works fine for me.... you have to be mechanically inclined to run any press. Watch Highboy videos for lnl although he has now sold out to Redding and Dillon they are still good videos for set up..Thewelshm