January 3, 2010, 08:25 AM | #1 |
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leading in BP guns?
I heve never heard anybody talk about leading, in BP guns. Does that mean it is not a problem? If not why not?
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January 3, 2010, 10:41 AM | #2 |
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It's mostly in the "Shot String". First off, PRB should not ever give you the opertunity, if your equipment is up to snuff. Most target loads are not very hot or fast. Pretty much the same on Sabots but you do see posts about plastic deposites. That leaves conicals and you can run into leading on these but again, how many rounds does one shoot at one time and afterwards you go home and do a complete cleaning. It's hard to lead up a clean, seasoned bore. The only time I ran into a leading problems is on a pitted bore that tore up my patches and started biting into the soft lead. If you stop and think about it, it makes sense.
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January 3, 2010, 01:28 PM | #3 |
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Patches, of course!
Most of my focus as of late has been on BP revolvers. Plus I have never fired patched round balls of of my muzzleloader since the guy who gave it to me gave me a bunch of minis. So I wasn't even thinking about patches when I asked the question. |
January 3, 2010, 01:55 PM | #4 |
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Even in cap-and-ball and cartridge guns, the pure lead obturates nicely and all but eliminates leading, unless there is a severe discrepency with bore and throat dimensions. Any soft lead that does happen to get left behind is much easier to remove than alloyed lead anyway.
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January 3, 2010, 06:28 PM | #5 |
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So what is the down side of loading cartridge guns with pure lead? Most people don't.
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January 4, 2010, 12:15 AM | #6 |
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BP burns at a lower temperature than smokeless which also limits leading. As a practical matter the bore will be fouled more with the BP then with the lead, Additionally, most people shoot relativity rounds through a BP revolver compared to modern cartridge guns.
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January 4, 2010, 01:53 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
The only downside is that it is a little harder to get good castings. I add 2% tin just to help the lead to flow, but that is all. I almost never get any leading at all. |
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January 4, 2010, 04:34 PM | #8 | |
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January 4, 2010, 08:07 PM | #9 |
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Lots of folks think that shooting "hard cast" pistol bullets is the key to reduce leading. Before I started casting and researching the subject, I thought along the same lines and always purchased hard cast bullets, and dealt with a lot of leading. In reality most standard pistol velocities are better served by a softer bullet that will obturate when firing and fill out the bore. Ideally the alloy should be matched to the pressure (not necessarily velocity) of that particular load. Lower pressure loads such as .45ACP and .45 colt are better off with a softer alloy (not necessarily pure though), magnum loads with a harder alloy and rifle bullets even harder yet.
I have less barrel leading with my smokeless boolits since I started adding some pure lead to my scrap wheel weight alloy to soften them up. I do cast pure lead for my C&B revolver and have yet to experience any significant leading in it. |
January 5, 2010, 11:59 AM | #10 |
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A General Rule in shooting lead bullets in handguns is if you are getting leading then your alloy is too hard. The bullets are not obdurating properly and not sealing the bore.
When you begin to approach rifle speeds then the alloy has to be harder. My pistol bullets for smokeless use, heavy loads in 41 magnum, are pure wheel weights. I also water quench them. For cowboy use with black powder I use either air cooled wheel weights for 44-40 rifle or pure lead for round balls from my pistols. |
January 5, 2010, 01:34 PM | #11 | |
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January 8, 2010, 07:02 AM | #12 |
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And I will tell you I have run 120 rounds through a 1862 Springfield,with Bill Large 7-groove barrel in 2 hours.58 cal. hollow base sized to .575 and not even run a patch through it.Just use a brass brush every 20-25 rounds and it never leads.The secret is in the LUBE!!If you don't use the proper lube they will lead the barrel,even with pure lead.
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