Bolt Scouring Cylinder - Page 2

MMA1991 · January 21, 2010, 10:00 PM

Model-P

Thanks a BUNCH. I plan on tearing the ol' girl down this weekend and doing a little filing. Your pic of the 1860 cyliner with the peening on the edge is exactly what I am experiencing.

Thank you for taking the time to explain this to a newbie.

All the best from SE LA

MMA1991

Model-P · January 22, 2010, 12:31 PM

You're welcome. Hope it all helps. Just go a little at a time, and make sure to polish what you end up with so the cam glides smoothly past the bolt finger when you let the hammer down.

You will notice that the bolt finger is not only shortened, there is also a small flat filed on the top. That will help to get the bolt to drop sooner without having to shorten the finger as much. kind of like fine tuning. Try to make a nice 90 degree corner out of it.

A little at a time is the key. Best wishes. Please let us know how it works out.

craiso · January 22, 2010, 10:45 PM

I also would like to thank Model-P again. Today I did a bit of work on my pistol and the action is getting so sweet I could just sit and listen to it click all day.

Sometime in the future, I need to smooth out the frame and polish all the moving parts parts one last time. I can't wait to get the conversion in it.

MMA1991 · January 22, 2010, 11:16 PM

Model-P

I removed the bolt and used my Dremel to grind down a bit of the finger and then used a polishing wheel to buff off any burrs/rough spots. Reinstalled and assembled the pistol. The timing between the 2nd and 3rd click was noticeably better. Also noted the peening appears to be taking place more in the channel than on the bolt stop edge. Probably needs just a little more removed and will do it next time I clean the inner workings.

Thanks again. Your pics and instructions were pure gold.

R/
MMA1991

Model-P · January 23, 2010, 01:35 AM

You're both welcome. We're all here to help eachother when we can. Others have helped me, and now it is nice to know I was able to help someone else. Thanks for the nice feedback.

mykeal · January 23, 2010, 08:01 AM

Have you considered the possible consequences of having removed the case hardening on the bolt?

Model-P · January 23, 2010, 07:23 PM

No.

Firstly, being a spring, bolts are tempered, not case hardened. Case hardening would embrittle the part. See below, and attached link for explanation.

Secondly, filing the bolt for fit and timing is a necessary manufacturing, and common gunsmithing job. Never, that I know of, are they sent back for a final temper before assembly in the gun.

In fact, Jerry Kuhnhausen in his "The Colt Single Action Revolvers- A Shop Manual, Volumes 1 & 2" states, "Although hardness problems have been virtually nonexistent with Colt S.A.A. bolts, it isn't uncommon to find replica S.A.A. bolts that are soft....Rear arms on softer bolts tend to lose temper and wear out faster. For this reason, it is suggested that all replica S.A.A. bolts (including new replacement bolts) be selected for hardness before fitting and installation." This suggests that there is no rehardening or retempering after fitting and installation. If the bolt lacks the carbon content to begin with, then it would be pointless to try to reharden and retemper it anyway.

Hardening and Tempering- good read...
http://www.astronomiainumbria.org/ad...hrish/t-ht.htm

mykeal · January 23, 2010, 11:18 PM

Actually, I knew that. I honestly don't know why I asked the question - I must have been thinking about something else. I gotta get back on those meds....

January 22, 2010, 10:45 PM	#28
craiso Member Join Date: September 26, 2009 Location: Northwest Missouri Posts: 22	I also would like to thank Model-P again. Today I did a bit of work on my pistol and the action is getting so sweet I could just sit and listen to it click all day. Sometime in the future, I need to smooth out the frame and polish all the moving parts parts one last time. I can't wait to get the conversion in it. __________________ Christopher

January 23, 2010, 07:23 PM	#32
Model-P Senior Member Join Date: February 24, 2009 Posts: 727	No. Firstly, being a spring, bolts are tempered, not case hardened. Case hardening would embrittle the part. See below, and attached link for explanation. Secondly, filing the bolt for fit and timing is a necessary manufacturing, and common gunsmithing job. Never, that I know of, are they sent back for a final temper before assembly in the gun. In fact, Jerry Kuhnhausen in his "The Colt Single Action Revolvers- A Shop Manual, Volumes 1 & 2" states, "Although hardness problems have been virtually nonexistent with Colt S.A.A. bolts, it isn't uncommon to find replica S.A.A. bolts that are soft....Rear arms on softer bolts tend to lose temper and wear out faster. For this reason, it is suggested that all replica S.A.A. bolts (including new replacement bolts) be selected for hardness before fitting and installation." This suggests that there is no rehardening or retempering after fitting and installation. If the bolt lacks the carbon content to begin with, then it would be pointless to try to reharden and retemper it anyway. Hardening and Tempering- good read... http://www.astronomiainumbria.org/ad...hrish/t-ht.htm Last edited by Model-P; January 23, 2010 at 07:54 PM.

January 21, 2010, 10:00 PM	#26
MMA1991 Junior Member Join Date: January 17, 2010 Location: Louisiana Posts: 14	Model-P Thanks a BUNCH. I plan on tearing the ol' girl down this weekend and doing a little filing. Your pic of the 1860 cyliner with the peening on the edge is exactly what I am experiencing. Thank you for taking the time to explain this to a newbie. All the best from SE LA MMA1991

January 22, 2010, 12:31 PM	#27
Model-P Senior Member Join Date: February 24, 2009 Posts: 727	You're welcome. Hope it all helps. Just go a little at a time, and make sure to polish what you end up with so the cam glides smoothly past the bolt finger when you let the hammer down. You will notice that the bolt finger is not only shortened, there is also a small flat filed on the top. That will help to get the bolt to drop sooner without having to shorten the finger as much. kind of like fine tuning. Try to make a nice 90 degree corner out of it. A little at a time is the key. Best wishes. Please let us know how it works out.

January 22, 2010, 11:16 PM	#29
MMA1991 Junior Member Join Date: January 17, 2010 Location: Louisiana Posts: 14	Model-P I removed the bolt and used my Dremel to grind down a bit of the finger and then used a polishing wheel to buff off any burrs/rough spots. Reinstalled and assembled the pistol. The timing between the 2nd and 3rd click was noticeably better. Also noted the peening appears to be taking place more in the channel than on the bolt stop edge. Probably needs just a little more removed and will do it next time I clean the inner workings. Thanks again. Your pics and instructions were pure gold. R/ MMA1991

January 23, 2010, 01:35 AM	#30
Model-P Senior Member Join Date: February 24, 2009 Posts: 727	You're both welcome. We're all here to help eachother when we can. Others have helped me, and now it is nice to know I was able to help someone else. Thanks for the nice feedback.

January 23, 2010, 08:01 AM	#31
mykeal Senior Member Join Date: October 8, 2006 Location: Northern Michigan Posts: 2,772	Have you considered the possible consequences of having removed the case hardening on the bolt?

January 23, 2010, 11:18 PM	#33
mykeal Senior Member Join Date: October 8, 2006 Location: Northern Michigan Posts: 2,772	Actually, I knew that. I honestly don't know why I asked the question - I must have been thinking about something else. I gotta get back on those meds....