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Old February 28, 2012, 07:02 AM   #51
Powderman
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Looking at the online Alliant Reloader's Guide, I see a load for the 115 grain Speer Gold Dot HP. The max load recommended is 4.7 grains.

3.5 might be a bit light for the pistol. Try increasing to 3.7, then if there are no adverse pressure signs, 4.0. This might help.
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Old February 28, 2012, 08:37 AM   #52
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For the record both my Glocks 17 and 26 are flawless. Have it checked.
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Old February 28, 2012, 09:53 AM   #53
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I had terrible results breaking in a pistol using PMC bronze 115 grain. I also hadn't cleaned the pistol prior to that first session. Once I switched to 124 grain NATO, maintained the pistol properly and also broke-in the spring (racking the slide over and over) I never had a single issue thereafter.
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Old February 28, 2012, 02:10 PM   #54
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Not firing a pistol in a defensive situation just because you don't have a perfect grip is easily some of the worst advice I've ever heard. Sorry, but it really is...
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Old February 28, 2012, 02:33 PM   #55
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Ok thanks guy's for the info, i will go back to the drawing board.
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Old February 28, 2012, 06:07 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadi Khalil
Not firing a pistol in a defensive situation just because you don't have a perfect grip is easily some of the worst advice I've ever heard. Sorry, but it really is...
You just tell the BG to wait while you make sure you align your pistol grip to be exactly perpendicular to the line of force during firing, then you make sure your stance is also perfectly correct, then you tell the BG to go ahead and make your day.

Or, you actually solve the real issue of why your pistol does not function ahead of time.
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Old February 28, 2012, 06:34 PM   #57
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^^^^^^Peace
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Old February 28, 2012, 07:28 PM   #58
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^^^^^^^solve
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Old February 28, 2012, 08:59 PM   #59
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I think I SOLVED this problem. AMMO. I had PMC Ammo. The guy at the gun store told me PMC was "under-powered for the glock" and could cause failure to extract and believed that was my problem. So he recommend MagTech Ammo. I bought it. He also did a QUICK look at my Glock, just opening the slide and said the extractor and everything looked fine. He didn't field strip it, just opened the slide and took a glance inside. He said it looked fine. So I trusted it, and figured I'd give his Ammo idea try.

Took it out to test fire it, firing a total of about 20 rounds.

1st Test: Two handed grip. I fired about 10-14 rounds using the two-hand grip, and did not have a single failure to eject. The only thing I encountered, was the brass flying out of the ejector at a high speed. A couple came back and hit me in the forehead. Oh well, I really didn't care. This is normal though, right? Or is it not suppose to be flying out that fast/backwards? But at least it didn't fail to eject once, that was my main concern. So test #1 with two hand grip out of 10 rounds: 100% success without fails.

2st Test: One handed grip. I only put about 6 rounds in my mag for the one-handed test fire. So I held it firmly with just my right hand, and fired 3 shots back to back. No problem. Pulled the trigger on the 4th round, click. It failed to extract the last round. I simply opened the slide and the round fell out. Pointed the gun and fired again, the remaning 3 rounds. No problems with failure to extract on the last 3 shots. Remember this was using one handed grip. So out of 6 shots, using one hand, only 1 failed to extract. And it only took 2 seconds to clear it. So test #2 with one handed grip out of 6 round test: 84% success without fails.

So, so far, this problem has been SOLVED. But I still have a concern. I thought Glocks could handle almost any Ammo ( at least the proper Ammo to be used in a 9mm semi auto Glock). Is the G26 that sensitive to the type of Ammo used? The PMC Ammo I used failed to extract the round 100% of the time. The new ammo I bought only failed to extract ONCE, out of nearly 20 rounds fired, and when it did fail to extract - and that failure was when I was shooting with one hand grip. I had zero failures when firing with two hand grip. So ammo seems to be the problem. I'm just surprised, I didn't realize the Glock 26 that was sensitive to the type of Ammo used.

Last edited by Josh17; February 28, 2012 at 09:21 PM.
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Old February 28, 2012, 09:20 PM   #60
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Your failure rate is still really horrible.

Unacceptable in an SD pistol.

I would check the part numbers on the ejector, extractor and RSA and make sure you have the latest of each.

Do you know what kind of ammo you want to carry in it?

I'd load it up with that and test fire that load.

I do exercises to strengthen my fingers, wrist and increase mass in my forearms, you might want to start doing that too:

http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...35&postcount=5

http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...37&postcount=6
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Old February 28, 2012, 09:28 PM   #61
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What is wrong with the failure rate? I only tested 20 rounds, though. In a couple days, I will go back to the range and test probably at least 100 rounds. That will give me a better idea.

When I fired with TWO hands (the proper way I guess most would say), I have 100% success rate. No failure to extract or fails what-so ever.

Now the SINGLE failure to extract I did have occur, remember, was when I used a ONE HANDED grip. I believe limp-wristing probably caused the failure to extract. Because when I used two-hands, it never failed. But it did once, using the one-handed grip.

Here's also something that may make a difference... I am a pretty small guy. I weight anywhere from 100-120 pounds. So I def don't have the strongest wrist. In fact my wrist are tiny. Again, I'm a small guy. So when firing with only one hand, to make 5 out of 6 shots still go bang, I wasn't too disappointed, especially since someone with my size and strength really can't hold a pistol with a strong grip with 1 hand. Or are you saying that the Glock 26 shouldn't fail to extract even if a weak person is firing it one handed? If that's the case, then perhaps I will get it looked at by a gunsmith.
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Old February 28, 2012, 09:53 PM   #62
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I wouldn't take it to a gunsmith yet, I would see what parts you have for extractor, and ejector. Now that I gave it more thought, I don't think the recoil spring on the Gen 3s are a problem, but I think the extractor and ejector can be.

If they're not the latest you can get new ones on Glock's dime.

Obviously the extractor is a really easy piece to replace.

I personally would be leary about having an SD gun that can't be fired one handed/ I can think of lots of SD situations where your carry gun basically become a belly gun because you're surprised and the attacker is right on you - or whatever, but I'm not sure how much your grip would affect any other gun like a Kahr PM9, Beretta Nano, Sig P290.

There are some guns that can be picky about ammo but a G26 isn't suppossed ot be one of them.

If I decided on a particular brand of ammo, and the gun worked flawlessly with that ammo, then I'd have confidence in it.

Although - it can get awfully expensive practicing with premium SD ammo.

That's why I created a post asking about 147gr practice rounds. I want to be able to practice with something that has the same recoil impulse and same basic characteristics of the premium 147gr SD rounds - without paying $50 a box for them.
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Old February 29, 2012, 10:12 AM   #63
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It sounds like an improvement, but 20 rounds falls way short of enough to call it good, especially since it still choked on one.

Josh I still think its very important for you to have someone with even basic Glock knowledge field strip it for a quick clean, lube and look, then they should shoot a full box of 50 through it.. only then will you know that its functioning normally, from there its up to you to strengthen and learn shooting skills that you'd need with any gun.

Is the G26 right for you?
Some have argued pistols shouldnt fail because of the shooters grip... its viewed as a design flaw.
I think that the shooter is the foundation of the system and needs to perform that task well with the little pistols.
Theres no big hurry, have it checked, cleaned and shot... then practice 300 rounds or so, if its still acting up for you go ahead and sell it if you think thats best.
I'd suggest the Kahr CM9 or CW9 next, to me they seem softer shooting than the Glocks.
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Old February 29, 2012, 10:28 AM   #64
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You are getting some good advice on what to try. Its good you have seen some improvement, but a failure 1 out of 6 is not acceptable for a selfdefense gun. I really think that it would be best to have someone with experience shoot it, to make sure its ok.Then you must practice and see if it can work for you. You may very well have to shoot it one handed for sd, so any failures is bad. You should be able to go 1k rounds with nofailures. Don't give up, you msy get it straightened out soon.
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Old February 29, 2012, 10:33 AM   #65
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Quote:
Here's also something that may make a difference... I am a pretty small guy. I weight anywhere from 100-120 pounds. So I def don't have the strongest wrist. In fact my wrist are tiny. Again, I'm a small guy. So when firing with only one hand, to make 5 out of 6 shots still go bang, I wasn't too disappointed, especially since someone with my size and strength really can't hold a pistol with a strong grip with 1 hand. Or are you saying that the Glock 26 shouldn't fail to extract even if a weak person is firing it one handed? If that's the case, then perhaps I will get it looked at by a gunsmith.
My wife is smaller than you (5'4" and maybe 105#) and she ran a G19 through a 2 day pistol class and between 1,250-1,500 rounds. She didn't have any stoppage that wasn't induced for malfunction drills. She was using Speer Lawman 124gr FMJ and was shooting in the mud.

This class included shooting one handed both strong and weak hand as well as firing from all types of positions.

I would post a picture but I can't get to the pictures from work.

She used the correct technique though.

Once you isolate whether you have good technique or not and good ammo, then I would have it checked out by an Armorer or send it back to Glock.

Sometimes Glock makes a lemon. I have owned one before.
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Old February 29, 2012, 10:39 AM   #66
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Josh17, you are getting good advice. Don't accept anything less than a 100 trouble free rounds fired for a SD pistol.
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Old February 29, 2012, 03:43 PM   #67
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You are getting great advice, but your first choice of gun baffles me.

In your first post you say you are brand new to semi auto's, and yet you purchase one of the smallest semi auto's there are.

A good rule of thumb is smaller the gun, the more difficulty you will have in shooting and getting the gun to function properly.

Put more rounds down range. A LOT more. If you are new to semi's and you are considering for CC, put A WHOLE LOT more rounds downrange.

Check and make sure you have the updated recoil spring assembly in your Glock if it is a Gen4.

Put more rounds downrange )
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Old March 1, 2012, 02:59 AM   #68
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Thanks for the replies and advice!
I got the G26 because of it being said and known to be extremely reliable - and since it's small so perfect for SD.

When I took the gun to a gun-store (and they claim that they are also gunsmiths) the guy working there , wearing a Glock shirt, said they didn't do any gunsmith work. I asked him if he could just field strip it and clean/lube it, and I'd pay if it if needed. But he told me "you can fire glocks dry... it still looks like there is some factory oil so you'll be fine".

His advice seems to kinda weird, but I dunno. His ammo choice was at least right, for the most part. I am going to try to take it down to the range tomorrow and give it another test. I wanna clean/lube it beforehand, but I don't want to lube the wrong parts/put too much and cause more problems. So maybe I will go to a real gunsmith and have them clean/lube it, then take it to the range for the "real test".
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Old March 1, 2012, 03:56 AM   #69
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The glock can be run dry, it's true, but it's not necessary. Try a couple dabs of molybdenum di-sulfide or choke tube lube on the rails and do not lube anything plastic or anything with or in a hole. Springs also do not require lube.

I think your problem is a combination of two things:

IF the picture is accurate that you posted: I bet the mag springs are too strong. Load the magazines for 24-48 hours fully before you go to the range. You need to use virgin ammunition and do not dry cycle them before shooting.

Now... two things that could also be a problem...though unlikely...I have experienced two glocks from factory that did not have an extractor spring, but the extractor stayed in tact-don't ask me how. It could be that the extractor is not supplying enough tension, or is not sharp enough to grasp the casings. Check the unloaded gun to see if the extractor looks like a factory fully intact extractor without chips or missing edges.

Pair this with the obvious part two (companion to the heavy mag springs) in my mind: hard recoil spring. Test with some non lead (that means FMJ) ammo, that is not considered weak. Though, don't buy magsafe anymore, the guy is taking advantage of your lack of semi auto experience, to sell something he wants to. Buy something in a 50 round box and from a normal manufacturer. Don't scratch the casings on the mag feed lips as you load the mag.

If you get the mag springs to soften a bit, it's a matter of a couple hundred rounds before you can call this gun a lemon. If you can't get 100 rounds to function after warming the gun up with 250, then you could consider this a factory issue. You are having trouble loading the mags, and the cause is likely improperly seated rounds too far up or too far back in the magazine, as though they are staggered. This inconsistency is combining with the stiff factory recoil spring to cause a simple problem.

If that doesn't fix it, I doubt you will find something that will. Glock is ridiculously consistent from factory, and I have seen similar problems on the subcompacts for years, regardless of which glock variation or generation it was.
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Old March 1, 2012, 04:04 AM   #70
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BY the way.. I have actually washed a g22 police trade in, in the dishwasher with just water, and shot it immediately after. The slide looked faded and bone dry, but the gun functioned fine. We would joke around at the glock advanced armory courses that it could be done, I was the first guy in my group to be stupid enough to try it.

I use choke tube lube on my glock's rails.
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Old March 1, 2012, 08:48 AM   #71
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Josh here is a Hickock45 Glock cleaning video.

Since yours isnt dirty, just a quick overall de-goo'ing followed by a couple drops of Remoil or other light oil on the inner grooves of the slide should have it ready to go.

Remove and study your recoil spring, it should look exactly like this.
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Old March 1, 2012, 10:47 AM   #72
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Yes Glocks can be fired dry,

But I think it's a mistake to just make generalizations now about all Glocks. In a lot of ways the G26 is very different from the G19 and G17 not even to get into the other calibers - 40 and 45.

So, I've fired my Glocks dry and wet and I've fired them with grease totally gooped in them. But I have a G34 and a 17L and I'm not sure how much it's applicable to a G26.

I know they are the same design throughout, but there must be differences because with this Gen 4 rollout - the G19s seem to have the most problem with ejecting brass straight back.

Anyway, do you know how to detail strip your Glock and find the part numbers?

If not I'll direct you to some good YouTube videos for detail stripping and some pics of the part numbers we need to look at.

Actually you only need to field strip it to get the part numbers for the ejector. Take the slide off and look at it with what would be the muzzle end pointing to the right. There will be a little number printed there - something liek "336"

The same thing with the spring - take it out, there should be a number printed on the back end - if you look at one end and there's no number - look at the other end.

The extractor is a little more difficult - you have to detail strip it to get the number, but anyway, what are those numbers?

Last edited by C0untZer0; March 1, 2012 at 10:55 AM.
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Old March 1, 2012, 03:07 PM   #73
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Glocks are one of the more robust pistols when it comes to running without lube. I have personally put 2000 rounds through my G22 without cleaning.

Cleaning the Glock is not at all hard. Field strip according to the manual. Use whatever cleaning method to clean the crud from the barrel and feed ramp. Get all the residue off from the inside of the slide, and I use an old toothbrush to knock off the crud on the top of the frame.

Lightly oil a patch and run through the bore. Put one small drop on each of the rails on the slide. Put it back together and rack the slide a few times to distribute the oil.
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Old March 1, 2012, 04:07 PM   #74
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One thing stands out to me during this discussion about cleaning. Most people seem to think of "field stripping" and complete cleaning. In my mind that is not the same as a complete cleaning.

By definition "field stripping" is something you do in the field. When you're home where you have all the tools one should do an occasional complete cleaning. To me that includes the firing pin and extractor.

I've looked at many YouTube videos and none show how to do a complete cleaning. It is a testament to the quality of modern pistols that they can operate without problems in spite of being dirty.

Two days ago I traded my LCP with CT laser for Glock 17 Gen 4. The guy told me that he cleans his gun after each trip to the range. Yesterday I took the pistol apart down to the firing pin and extractor. It became obvious that a complete cleaning had never been performed because the firing pin and it's camber was filthy as was the extractor. I gave it a through cleaning and got a lot of carbon out there with q-tips, solvent, toothbrush and an air compressor.

Would the pistol have failed if I hadn't cleaned properly? No, it probably would have worked in spite of the carbon, but it will eventually fail from build up. The pistol's life may have been shortned, but it probably would have still lasted decades.

One thing I know for sure is that my cleaning it thoroughly didn't hurt anything and probably helped a little.

Some may think I'm being nit picky, but when I went through Army basic training (1972) my drill sargent, after each day at the range, wanted to see M-16 apart and clean. Including that tiny spring under the extractor (he said he has seen guys die in Vietnam because their M16 failed to extract). Any carbon that he found meant 50 push-ups and more cleaning. I had to do that a couple of times, but by golly he drilled it into me and he prevailed.
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Old March 1, 2012, 04:08 PM   #75
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Here's how you do it...

Take a tongue depressor and heap generous amounts of grease everywhere, re-assemble the pistol and wipe off the excess grease that oozes out.

Then take it to the range and fire it.



Don't worry about putting too much on, after the first pull of the trigger, all the excess will come flying out the rear and sides of the pistol.

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