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September 27, 2018, 10:08 AM | #26 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: March 23, 2016
Posts: 13
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Quote:
The barrel is well tight and the gap adjusted with the original supplied tools to 0.006 |
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September 28, 2018, 03:10 AM | #27 |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 28, 2013
Posts: 3,826
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Shooting cast (lead) bullets requires additional work. Things need to be within a rather narrow window, or it won't work well, especially so in a revolver.
You need to slug the barrel to determine its groove diameter (x). You need to measure the cylinder throat diameter (y) with a set of pin gauge. You need to measure the bullet diameter (z) with a micrometer. Ideally 0 =< y - z < 0.002" and 0.001" < z - x < 0.003". If those conditions are not met, and you still want to shoot cast bullets, you need to do something to make it happen. Otherwise, stay with jacketed bullets. As for the proper functioning of the lock work, you probably want to let a competent gunsmith earn his living. Revolver is a specialty even for the smiths, i.e. not everyone can really do it. -TL |
September 28, 2018, 11:14 AM | #28 |
Junior Member
Join Date: March 23, 2016
Posts: 13
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New input:
As many of you said, the side plate is the problem, it is not tight with the frame so the hand moves freely to the side and doesn't move the cylinder all the way around. So last night I disassembled all the parts, tried to fit the side plate alone, but had the same problem, so I sand its flat surfaces and underneath and after that it fits almost correctly, a little gap on the upper side, but the hand is more secure, almost no lateral movements and now the timing is correct, when I put back the hammer first the cylinder stops in the cylinder stop and only after that the hammer stops in position... So, maybe I have to take it all again and do a deeper polish, to see if the side plate goes in a little more and then I need to go to the range to see if it shots better, it has to do it Thanks for all your help, Mike |
Tags |
dan wesson , forcing cone , leaded barrel |
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