Lee Precision 50th Anniversary Kit

[fitfighter81]

I have seen this kit on Cheaper Than Dirt for a while now, and I am wondering if it is worth buying? I am only looking at loading 2 or 300 rnds at a time for various handgun calibers. would this do the job as opposed to a progessive? I'm just looking to get set up now to start reloading andsee if I can get into it or not. Appreciate any input!

[testuser]

I'd probably look at the Lee Classic Turret Press if I wanted to load that volume at a single sitting.

[Unclenick]

The kit will do the job. It's a good way to learn, loading one step at a time, so each step becomes familiar. When you understand all the operations, then monitoring their simultaneous undertaking on the progressive is easier to make sense of. You'll still find uses for the single stage press in the kit even after you get a progressive.

The main difference, of course, is speed. Not counting whatever case cleaning you intend to do, once you have the method down the single stage system will let you batch process 300 rounds in two or three hours (assuming you are not switching chamberings), depending on your natural pace and speed comfort zone, and assuming you use a measure rather than weighing charges. On the progressive it'll probably take around half an hour. The turret will be inbetween.

[Lost Sheep]

In my opinion, a progressive is best used for loading hundreds or thousands of cartridges. A couple hundred at a time, to me, is not worth the setup time.

I started loading with a single stage (RCBS Jr) 35 years ago, then traded up to a RockChucker. I acquired a pair of Lee Pro-1000 progressive presses which I used for a few decades. But switching calibers was inconvenient and primer feeding was problematic and keeping constant watch on a half-dozen things going on at the same time was tiresome and not worth the extra speed of production. Other personalities may be suited to progressive press use. My personality is not.

So, I got a turret press (Lee Auto-Indexing Classic Turret) which fits my needs very well.

If you expect to reload 300 or less rounds at a sitting, and want to devote 4 to 6 hours of time to the endeavor, a single stage press is fine. If you think you might be interested in greater numbers or don't think you would like to have that many hours of "escape time", you might want to go with a Turret.

On the other hand, you will not regret having a full-frame (also known as an "O" frame) single stage press for those jobs a progressive or turret is not well suited for.

Read my thread, (thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=434249) "Minimal start-up cost, first class setup." for a little more detail.
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=434249

The Lee Single Stage is a great way to go, but if you are going to be loading for several calibers, the quick-change bushings should be considered.

Lost Sheep

[jimbob86]

I've used it for years....... more than adequate for handgun calibers. The aluminum press that used come with it has been repaced with that cast "breechlock" press since then ..... it's links did not hold up too well .... mine broke twice (though Lee replaced them for free). The cast press now comes with the kit ....... cheaper to sell a good press than to keep sending parts for the cheap one. I got a Redding single stage on sale...... I still use all the other stuff from the kit.

Progressives are faster, but slower to set up.

My brother loads a couple hundred rounds/week of 9mm with a Lee Hand Press kit and dippers. Keeps everthing in a couple of shoe boxes...... does case prep/priming every Sunday watching football, charges and seats bullets Monday or Tues. nite ........ shoots em all up Saturday. Repeat.

[jmortimer]

Get the Lee Precision Classic Turret - it is the highest rated turret press on Midway USA regardless of price and you can use it in single stage mode like I do. Either that or the new Classic Cast Breech Lock. The Lee Precision Classic Cast/Breech Lock is the highest rated single stage regardless of price on Midway USA as well.

[CrustyFN]

I agree with the classic turret crowd. You can get the classic turret kit at www.kempfgunshop.com for around $200. It is not a progressive but will let you load three times faster than the single stage. It can be used as a single stage if you want then just add the auto indexing rod and load three times faster. With the classic turret if you install each set of dies in their own turret then it takes about one minute to change calibers. This is what it looks like.



It won't come with the three ball. This cost a little more but it was worth it for me because it keeps the turrets off the bench and gives me more usable space.

[Al Norris]

Good replies. I'm still gonna add my two-cents....

Originally Posted by fitfighter81

I'm just looking to get set up now to start reloading and see if I can get into it or not.

For a low cost solution, just to see if reloading is for you, you can't do any better than the anniversary kit. You won't have a lot of money tied up, if you decide this hobby is not your cup-o-tea.

1. The kit does not include dies or the shellholders.
   1. Lee dies come with the shellholders and are generally as good as other dies, but cost less.
2. The kit also does not include a case lube pad.
   1. Not a problem if using Imperial Wax Lube or a similar product.
3. The Kit does not include any loading trays.
   1. Not absolutely necessary, but mighty convenient.
4. Using the Lee Perfect Powder Measure has been problematic for some folks.
   1. It must be broken in pretty much exactly as the instructions tell you.
   2. Learning to be consistent with your throws is the single biggest issue.
   3. No matter what I've done, small ball powders (like H110/W296) still leak.
5. The Lee Safety Powder Scale is also problematic for many.
   1. The Lee Safety Scale is not the most intuitive to read or set.
   2. There are easier scales to use - but cost 2 to 3 times what you get with Lee, and they are no more accurate.
   3. Again, attention to detail is required.

Attention to detail is the single biggest key to success in reloading. So some of the problems that I noted above are part of not paying attention. In other words, being somewhat anal is a plus to reloading.

Assuming that you like reloading, you can always upgrade your equipment. You will also always find a use for that single stage press (mine is now a universal decapper), so nothing is really lost there.

[fitfighter81]

After all the reply's and input I think I am going to go with the Lee Aniv. Kit. I picked up " ABC's Of Reloading this morning and have been sitting here reading all afternoon and I think it will do for what I am looking at loading right now.

Ps. If any guru's are located ion the NKY area I'd love any help you can offer in getting started.

[Don P]

+1 for Al Norris's reply. I am still using my first and only re loading kit, the Lee kit. All the components work as described. Scale is simple to set and use IF "you" follow the directions and take your time when first learning how to set it up. Same goes for the powder thrower. I also like the how-to video's on the Lee site if you should have questions and want to see hands on how-to do things and if necessary you can watch the video's over and over until you understand the info being provided. I started re loading in 06 and my total outlay for 5 calibers was $335. Short money to roll your own.

[m&p45acp10+1]

I have had my Lee kit for a little over a year. I have loaded Over 25,000 rounds with the press since then. Things I have done since.
1. Purchase a dial caliper that reads to 0.001
2. Purchased a more user friendly scale. (Smart Reloader works fine, just have a brick of fresh batteries on hand.) I still use the Lee when double checking charges to assure the other scale is reading correctly.
3. A universal loading block. (Was worth ever cent of the $8 I paid for it.)
4. A manual is highly recomended. Two or three would be even better.
5. The one caliber books are good for several referance sources on the same caliber.

Note:
Yes there is a small amount of leakage with finer powders if you loosen the adjustment screw on the powder measure. It will not hurt anything. The measure works just fine with ball powder. It also throws Reloader 7 perfectly every time for me. There are some powders that almost no matter which measure you use they will not meter well. Hi Skor 800x come to mind for me. It works in all of the load I have used it for. It just is a PITA work with. It meters like corn flakes.

Also make sure what ever you use to mount the press on is extremly solid. I almost ripped the top of a desk off with my press before I built my bench. Lock nuts, and washers for the bottom are also advisable to keep nuts from working thier way loose. (Mine did.)

[CrustyFN]

fitfighter81,

Congrats and welcome to reloading, it's a great hobby.

[Incognito]

Originally Posted by fitfighter81

After all the reply's and input I think I am going to go with the Lee Aniv. Kit. I picked up " ABC's Of Reloading this morning and have been sitting here reading all afternoon and I think it will do for what I am looking at loading right now.

I've been using the Lee Anniversary Kit now since '07; works well for me. If you have a public library nearby, go look up handloading/reloading, sometimes they'll have a few books on the subject.

[stealintv]

Get it. If you are just starting out, there is no better way to learn than having an intimate understanding of each step. Get a good reloading manual. Richard Lee's Modern Reloading is a great companion to the kit as it discusses the components you are thinking of buying. I'd get two though as some company's use different recipes and you can broaden your horizons to find the best load for your weapons.

As someone else stated, the scale is not the easiest to use so buy a digital scale off of ebay that measures in grains.

The powder measure is difficult to adjust to throw the correct weights. Once it's locked in, however, it has been a joy to use. I found that if you get it just under what you need, a powder trickler comes in handy. Other times, I'll get perfect throws and never need the trickler. I won't get into the mechanics of it as you may not have a clue as to what I am talking about.

Digital calipers are a great idea too.

Also, don't forget to trim your cases. There are hand tools for this task that come with the kit, but you will need a pilot/guage and the shellholder ($5). If you plan on doing hundreds in one sitting, eventually you may invest in a machine with a hand crank ($50+).

As far as case cleaning, there are lots of routes to go. The cheapest is to go to a resale shop (goodwill/salvation army) and buy a dedicated pot or a deep skillet. Throw the cases in there with some water, couple drops of dish soap, and cider vinegar. Turn on the heat till it boils and rinse a few times. They won't be pretty, but they are clean. Shiny cases will need a $40 vibratory cleaner, media, etc. If you are just starting out, go the cheap route. You can add to your equipment later if you decide you enjoy the hobby. By the way, you will enjoy it.

Cheers!

[misskimo]

Bought mint 8 months ago. Great learning tool for sure. Well worth it. I did by another scale. Digi scale. Went back to the beam scale that came with the kit. Could not get consistence with the digi . Powder trickler. It's well worth it. Mine might be slow. But it sure makes great rounds for my 300 ultra mag

[fitfighter81]

Ordered the kit, and some other CGS this afternoon! May be a couple more months before I can actually get powder and brass etc... But at least
I have something to look forward to! So wish me luck. OH, BTW... Does shooting home cast slugs have any negative effect on the weapon as opposed to shooting say a jacket'd slug?

[Xfire68]

No shooting homemade lead cast bullets does not do anymore damage then a cooper jacketed bullet.

I bought the Lee Anniversary kit back when it was the 35th and it worked great! I have a 50th, a 4 Hole Turret and tomorrow I will have a Hornady LNL AP! Never enough reloading stuff!

[m&p45acp10+1]

Almost all of my handguns shooting is done with home cast bullets. I have shot many thousands of them this past year.
Note clean your gun very well before shooting lead out of it. Use a good copper solovent to remove all of the copper out. Wait a while then clean it again just to be sure. This will make cleaning it a whole lot easier down the road. As to the fact that the lead will tend to stick to the copper. If you clean your gun while it is still warm before going home from the range it will cut your cleaning time down dramaticly.
Note for the easiest cleaning, and minumum of lead fouling slug your bore, or chambers on a revolver. Fit is king. It makes a world of differance.