Chamfering the cylinder chamber openings

[sirdutch]

Is there a way for me to slightly campher the cylinders opening on my blackpowder revolver? I've got a stainless Pietta cylinder. I have a drill press but I'm not sure what type of bit to use.

Thanks

[Aguila Blanca]

The term is "chamfer." I don't think a drill press is the right tool for this job. How much of a chamfer do you want? Is the purpose just to reduce lead shaving as you load the bullets?

[Hawg]

You need something like this. https://www.brownells.com/tools-clea...erly%20aligned.

[sirdutch]

Yeah, I know I fudged the term. Yes to the question on mitigating the shaving on the lead ball. I know there are specialty hand tools for this purpose but those are a little rich for me. I do realize just a little is required and the chamfered needs to be evenly and sparingly done. The caliber is .44. If I did go this route, would I be correct to get the tool listed as for 45acp? Midway is out of stock on some of these sizes anyway.

[tangolima]

How about the inside chamfering tool for brass prep?

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[Old No7]

Stainless steel is really tough on cutting tools -- low-speed and slow usually works best for me, but I admit that I sometimes get impatient and apply more of both --> which does NOT help any! In fact, in my experience, it slows the drilling/cutting, burns up the bit/tool, and I need to use a new one.

"Galling" (due to excessive friction between two moving surface) is yet another concern with stainless steel which can result in slight chips or uneven cutting, and you risk resulting in an out-of-round cylinder.

If it "has to be done", for sure I'd ask a BP Pro Shop for a quote, but I personally would not touch a stainless cylinder on my own with just my standard shop tools.

Old No7

[4V50 Gary]

What Hawg pointed out is what we used. Drill bits (and presses) are imprecise and won't ensure concentric results.

[FrankenMauser]

You don't want a chamfer on those cylinder throats.
You want a sharp edge that will cut a nice lead ring.

The chamfer just makes loading harder with bare balls or bullets, and over-compresses if you're loading patched balls.

[Hawg]

Chamfering is supposed to swage the ball down to size instead of cutting it down to size.

[Ricklin]

I'd rather have the positivity of a shaved ring of lead versus the unknown amount of force I might need to apply to the loading lever. Our projectiles vary in both size and hardness. That ring of lead is my assurance of a well sealed chamber without guesswork. Must be working, I've not had a chainfire.

[Hawg]

Originally Posted by Ricklin

That ring of lead is my assurance of a well sealed chamber without guesswork. Must be working, I've not had a chainfire.

I've got one that cuts a ring and will still chain unless I use a wad or lube over the ball..

[FrankenMauser]

Cut balls tend to result in better accuracy than drawn balls.*

But if you have one with a weird chamber that needs special care, do what you think is right.


*Reduction in diameter is "drawing" and increasing diameter is "swaging". You aren't going to swage round balls during loading.

[Hawg]

Originally Posted by FrankenMauser

Reduction in diameter is "drawing" and increasing diameter is "swaging". You aren't going to swage round balls during loading.

Swaging reduces the cross section. Knurling increases it.

[Aguila Blanca]

Originally Posted by sirdutch

Yeah, I know I fudged the term. Yes to the question on mitigating the shaving on the lead ball. I know there are specialty hand tools for this purpose but those are a little rich for me. I do realize just a little is required and the chamfered needs to be evenly and sparingly done. The caliber is .44. If I did go this route, would I be correct to get the tool listed as for 45acp? Midway is out of stock on some of these sizes anyway.

A standard drill bit has an included angle of 118 degrees (less common might be 135 degrees). A 118 degree bit will give you a chamfer angle of only 31 degrees. If you're going to chamfer the chamber mouths, you need at least a 45 degree chamfer, and probably should be looking for about 60 degrees. You need a tapered reamer, not a drill bit.

[Ricklin]

Originally Posted by Hawg

I've got one that cuts a ring and will still chain unless I use a wad or lube over the ball..

Of course, I'm a fan of belt and suspenders.

[sirdutch]

Thanks for all the replies to my post. I won't bother with touching the stainless cylinder. I appreciate everyone that responded and may respond in the future.

[sirdutch]

As I'm not going to tamper with my cylinder, a close friend that I haven't see in a while (10 years or so) suggested that I purchase a BP cylinder loading stand instead. Never thought of that. My concern was always about getting the lead rings in the works. He says he loads up the cylinder plus his two spares at home and reloads on site after that. He told me not to have any loaded cylinder installed in the Remy while on the way to the shootout! I guess he was ribbing me because I live in what he termed "The People's Republic of Kalifornia". It's going to be fun taking out the BP revolvers. It was nice reconnecting with the old geezer.

Thanks again for all the responses to my post.