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Old February 26, 2009, 10:52 AM   #26
zxcvbob
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Can't you just drill the crimp with the right size bit? I was thinking of doing this with some S&B 38spl brass I have.
I'm going to try that with a 60° countersink bit -- when I find my countersink. But I think it may take a little more than that; maybe chamfer with a countersink and then open up the pockets with a Hornady pocket reamer.
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Anybody happen to notice that this thread is like 4 months old until today?
Yes, I saw that when I bumped it up again. It seemed more appropriate than starting a new one.
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Old February 26, 2009, 11:26 AM   #27
Jkwas
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The S&B brass I have is hit and miss. Some I can squeeze the primers in, some I can't. I reasoned that if I just taper the opening of the pocket slightly with a bit, it might help guide the primers in. What do ya think?
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Old February 26, 2009, 11:31 AM   #28
zxcvbob
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It's worth a try, but you are less likely to ruin the brass if you use a countersink bit with multiple flutes (it won't grab like a drill bit will -- and is supposed to do)
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Old February 26, 2009, 11:57 AM   #29
PCJim
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Good information to know that the 600 does NOT require resetting for every headstamp. Guess I will have to reconsider it's purchase... Many thanks.
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Old February 26, 2009, 08:21 PM   #30
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The Dillon swager may need to be reset for various headstamped cases, because not all cases have the same web thickness. The Dillon swager works by camming a swager rod into the primer pocket of the case. Inside the case is a support rod. Most people will adjust the swager so that at the end of its stroke, the desired amount of swaging is acheived. If you have a case that is thicker than the one you used to set up the tool, then the thicker web will make the swager rod swage that much more into the primer pocket. A thinner webbed case will swage that much less. You can sort the cases by manufacturer and that will probably help, but you will still get the odd thick or thinner webbed case.

I set mine up to swage well short of the end of the stroke of the swager. There is plenty of mechanical advantage to allow you to do this. I go by feel and not the end of the stroke of the handle. You will notice the differences in web thickness based on where in the handle stroke the pressure starts to load up as it engages the case and the hardness differences in how much pressure you need before the case starts to swage. I put aside any cases that will still fall outside the range of the setting of the swager....where the handle of the swager reaches the end of the stroke and I feel no swaging happening (too thin a web for my setting)or cases that won't even go all the way into position to be swaged (too thick a web for the swager setting) and I deal with them separately. Most will be able to be swaged.
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Old February 26, 2009, 09:45 PM   #31
kasTX
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The Dillon 600 rocks.

I got mine a month or so ago, and I have been very impressed with how much easier it is to use than the RCBS swager. Over the years I have bent two rods in the RCBS unit (yes, my fault, but it was easy to do) and the cases frequently got stuck on the button that goes on the ram of the press.

The Dillon is well worth the money, and I wish I had bought one earlier.
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