De-Whiskering

Because 'Merica · December 16, 2014, 12:26 PM

My stock on my old single shot 12 ga is now been stripped of the old finish and sanded down from 220-400 grain paper. I am ready to De-Whisker. Would it be a better idea to dewhisker using fine steel wool vs sandpaper. I feel like sandpaper just pushes the whiskers back into place.

FrankenMauser · December 16, 2014, 12:56 PM

I, personally, don't like using steel wool.

If you're not happy with the results you get with sandpaper, then I would suggest a good scraper (or set of scrapers). They're wonderful tools.

Because 'Merica · December 16, 2014, 01:05 PM

what is your reasoning behind steel wool being a nogo?

**4V50 Gary** · December 16, 2014, 01:10 PM

No steel wool. You don't want the wool to embed itself into the wood. Use a scraper instead. Go lightly.

T. O'Heir · December 16, 2014, 01:56 PM

Dampen the wood to make the 'whiskers' stand up and sand.

Gunplummer · December 16, 2014, 03:16 PM

Yes, stay away from steelwool. If the wood is low grade and very soft, I burnish it with a small baby food jar. If you can get it, a glass cylinder that cigars come in is really good.

Pahoo · December 16, 2014, 03:55 PM

I usually dewhisker after I seal and the only time I use any steel wool, is when I strip or satin down a gloss finish. ...

I might dewhisker on bare wood but my final, is after I seal. The Sealer will lay down the last of the whiskers ...

Be Safe !!!

Dixie Gunsmithing · December 16, 2014, 04:22 PM

Most stop at 400 grit, but I go onto 600, and it is about the same as burnishing. 600 leaves the wood looking as if a finish was applied it's so slick. If staining, and whiskers appear, a light going over with 600 generally will knock them down without affecting the stain. I also use 600 after the first coat of finish, and then 0000 steel wool for the proceeding coats.

My biggest secret is using grit screen cloth in all the grit sizes from 120 to 600. 600 is hard to find, but it is out there. It seems to work better, especially not loading up, than anything else, and seems better for whiskers. Brownell's used to stock the 600 grit screen sheets, but quit carrying it, and I had to search out polishing and sanding suppliers to find it in sheets again.

603Country · December 16, 2014, 07:43 PM

Pretty much, I vote with Dixie. I dewhisker about 3 times. Wet, then swipe wife's blowdrier to dry the wood, then use 400 grit to dewhisker. Rewet and repeat twice more and dewhisker the last time with 600 grit.

After the finish is applied and cured, I use OOOO steel wool and paste wax. Be sure the finish is cured. Wait at least a week. More is better.

The most recent finish I've used was Waterlox Original in Satin. Took a while, but wow, it looks great. Takes a long while to cure though.

Dfariswheel · December 16, 2014, 08:16 PM

Pros don't use sand paper to de-whisker because sand paper just presses most splinters right back down.

Steel wool may embed particles in the wood which may rust later, staining the wood.
Also, steel wool is soaked with an oil to prevent it from rusting and the oil can contaminate the finish.

To whisker these days, dampen the wood and immediately dry with a stove burner or element, a small propane torch, or a heat gun on the coolest setting to dry the wood.
In any case take care not to scorch the wood.
This will cause the tiny splinters to stand up.

Then gently rub with a CLEAN synthetic Scotchbrite pad.
One of the green synthetic pads from the grocery store works very well.
Unlike sand paper, the Scotchbrite pad catches and cuts the small splinters off instead of pressing them back down, but doesn't contain oil like steel wool.

Pahoo · December 16, 2014, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Unlike sand paper, the Scotchbrite pad catches and cuts the small splinters off instead of pressing them back down, but doesn't contain oil like steel wool.

Makes sense to me and thanks for the tip. ....

Be Safe !!!

Scorch · December 17, 2014, 02:58 AM

The best reason not to use steel wool is that when steel touches wet wood, it reacts and leaves a dark stain in the wood. Steel wool leaves slivers of steel behind when you use it. This causes the wood to get small black blemishes stockmakers call "measles". So, no steel wool.

I use wet/dry paper, and dewhisker stocks with 600 grit on a sanding block under running water. I know others who use a propane torch after wetting the stock. I know one gentleman who uses a piece of broken glass (claims it's the best). But any way you do it, make sure you get it dewhiskered well before you put finish on the wood.

Dixie Gunsmithing · December 17, 2014, 09:03 AM

One good thing to study is finishing for auto-body, and the main lesson from it is having the smoothest surface possible before any finish is applied.

In woodworking, most will stop at 400 grit, and some below, but if you take a close look at those stocks, even factory stocks, you can see faint sanding marks, (look at it with a magnifying glass of low power). Thus, the higher in grit you go, the smoother the surface, and its easier to get that slick finish. After using 600, though, the wood seems smooth enough that you don't see these.

I would say that grit screen cloth acts somewhat like Scotch Brite pads, as the screen allows the whiskers to stick through the holes in screen itself. Plus, the screen is made from round fibers, the same as the screen in a window, so it's never flat like regular sand paper.

Dfariswheel · December 17, 2014, 08:59 PM

I'd think that screen cloth would work well.
All that's needed is something that will catch and pull or cut the tiny splinters off instead of pushing them back down.

After whiskering a couple of times (how many depends on the piece of wood) whisker one final time but don't use anything on it.
The water from dampening the wood flashes to steam when dried.
This actually steam cleans the wood, blasting saw dust and dirt out of the grain and opening it up to receive the finish.

It's the little touches that make a good finish.

603Country · December 17, 2014, 10:26 PM

I like the mesh cloth idea also, though I'm still a sandpaper guy - because it works Ok and I have mucho sandpaper. I don't ever use steel wool until the finish is cured and I do a rubdown with paste wax and steel wool. I had someone tell me once that I should not do that, since I'd leave bits of steel stuck in the final cured finish and those bits would rust and speckle or freckle the finish. Hmmm. I had a recently done 22 rifle that I used the steel wool and wax on, so I soaked the finish off and on for several days with salt water. And as a control, I put some steel wool in a pan of the same salt water. The steel wool rusted extremely fast. No freckles or speckles ever showed up on the rifle stock, and I used a bright light and a magnifying glass to look for any rust spots, however small.

What nobody seems to mention is the use of a sanding sealer to dewhisker. If a fellow is going to use a varnish, shellac, or Waterlox finish, the first coat on the wood should be a sanding sealer of some type. Raise the grain, apply the sanding sealer, let dry and then lightly sand the 'locked in place' whiskers. Nothing I'm aware of will work better than that. Of course it won't work if you are going with some type of oil rubbed finish or wiping varnish finish.

Dixie Gunsmithing · December 18, 2014, 02:16 PM

The fault I have with grit screen is the expense, but then it outlasts paper by a good margin because it doesn't load up. It seems that the higher grit sizes are more expensive, too, or 600 is for some reason. The lower grits, like 120 and 220 are used for sanding drywall, so they are much cheaper, and more available. Generally, you can get them in 1/4 and 1/2 sheets so they will fit a sander. You can get this is discs too, but I don't know about the 600. I included three places where you can buy this below.

http://www.gregdorrance.com/abranet-..._558_1248.html

http://www.supergrit.com/products/pr...sandscreen.asp

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/...t-Variety-Pack

The 120 and 220, look at Lowe's, etc too.

Dfariswheel · December 18, 2014, 07:28 PM

I hated doing wood work but did a good bit over the years.
I used steel wool to prepare a DCM M1 rifle stock for finishing, and after applying several coats of finish I was looking at the grain with magnification to see how well I was filling the grain.

I found a piece of steel wool particle caught in an open pore.
I switched to synthetic pads after that, but still checked with magnification for pieces of it in the grain.

Again, it's the little things that make for good workmanship.

December 16, 2014, 12:26 PM	#1
Because 'Merica Member Join Date: July 4, 2014 Posts: 66	De-Whiskering My stock on my old single shot 12 ga is now been stripped of the old finish and sanded down from 220-400 grain paper. I am ready to De-Whisker. Would it be a better idea to dewhisker using fine steel wool vs sandpaper. I feel like sandpaper just pushes the whiskers back into place.

December 16, 2014, 12:56 PM	#2
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,424	I, personally, don't like using steel wool. If you're not happy with the results you get with sandpaper, then I would suggest a good scraper (or set of scrapers). They're wonderful tools. __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

December 16, 2014, 01:10 PM	#4
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,832	No steel wool. You don't want the wool to embed itself into the wood. Use a scraper instead. Go lightly. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

December 16, 2014, 01:56 PM	#5
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	Dampen the wood to make the 'whiskers' stand up and sand. __________________ Spelling and grammar count!

December 16, 2014, 03:55 PM	#7
Pahoo Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2006 Location: IOWA Posts: 8,783	Seal then dewhisker I usually dewhisker after I seal and the only time I use any steel wool, is when I strip or satin down a gloss finish. ... I might dewhisker on bare wood but my final, is after I seal. The Sealer will lay down the last of the whiskers ... Be Safe !!! __________________ 'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing.

December 16, 2014, 01:05 PM	#3
Because 'Merica Member Join Date: July 4, 2014 Posts: 66	what is your reasoning behind steel wool being a nogo?

December 16, 2014, 03:16 PM	#6
Gunplummer Senior Member Join Date: March 11, 2010 Location: South East Pa. Posts: 3,364	Yes, stay away from steelwool. If the wood is low grade and very soft, I burnish it with a small baby food jar. If you can get it, a glass cylinder that cigars come in is really good.

December 16, 2014, 04:22 PM	#8
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	Most stop at 400 grit, but I go onto 600, and it is about the same as burnishing. 600 leaves the wood looking as if a finish was applied it's so slick. If staining, and whiskers appear, a light going over with 600 generally will knock them down without affecting the stain. I also use 600 after the first coat of finish, and then 0000 steel wool for the proceeding coats. My biggest secret is using grit screen cloth in all the grit sizes from 120 to 600. 600 is hard to find, but it is out there. It seems to work better, especially not loading up, than anything else, and seems better for whiskers. Brownell's used to stock the 600 grit screen sheets, but quit carrying it, and I had to search out polishing and sanding suppliers to find it in sheets again.

December 16, 2014, 07:43 PM	#9
603Country Senior Member Join Date: January 6, 2011 Location: Thornton, Texas Posts: 3,998	Pretty much, I vote with Dixie. I dewhisker about 3 times. Wet, then swipe wife's blowdrier to dry the wood, then use 400 grit to dewhisker. Rewet and repeat twice more and dewhisker the last time with 600 grit. After the finish is applied and cured, I use OOOO steel wool and paste wax. Be sure the finish is cured. Wait at least a week. More is better. The most recent finish I've used was Waterlox Original in Satin. Took a while, but wow, it looks great. Takes a long while to cure though.

December 16, 2014, 08:16 PM	#10
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	Pros don't use sand paper to de-whisker because sand paper just presses most splinters right back down. Steel wool may embed particles in the wood which may rust later, staining the wood. Also, steel wool is soaked with an oil to prevent it from rusting and the oil can contaminate the finish. To whisker these days, dampen the wood and immediately dry with a stove burner or element, a small propane torch, or a heat gun on the coolest setting to dry the wood. In any case take care not to scorch the wood. This will cause the tiny splinters to stand up. Then gently rub with a CLEAN synthetic Scotchbrite pad. One of the green synthetic pads from the grocery store works very well. Unlike sand paper, the Scotchbrite pad catches and cuts the small splinters off instead of pressing them back down, but doesn't contain oil like steel wool.

December 17, 2014, 02:58 AM	#12
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	The best reason not to use steel wool is that when steel touches wet wood, it reacts and leaves a dark stain in the wood. Steel wool leaves slivers of steel behind when you use it. This causes the wood to get small black blemishes stockmakers call "measles". So, no steel wool. I use wet/dry paper, and dewhisker stocks with 600 grit on a sanding block under running water. I know others who use a propane torch after wetting the stock. I know one gentleman who uses a piece of broken glass (claims it's the best). But any way you do it, make sure you get it dewhiskered well before you put finish on the wood. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

December 17, 2014, 09:03 AM	#13
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	One good thing to study is finishing for auto-body, and the main lesson from it is having the smoothest surface possible before any finish is applied. In woodworking, most will stop at 400 grit, and some below, but if you take a close look at those stocks, even factory stocks, you can see faint sanding marks, (look at it with a magnifying glass of low power). Thus, the higher in grit you go, the smoother the surface, and its easier to get that slick finish. After using 600, though, the wood seems smooth enough that you don't see these. I would say that grit screen cloth acts somewhat like Scotch Brite pads, as the screen allows the whiskers to stick through the holes in screen itself. Plus, the screen is made from round fibers, the same as the screen in a window, so it's never flat like regular sand paper.

December 17, 2014, 08:59 PM	#14
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	I'd think that screen cloth would work well. All that's needed is something that will catch and pull or cut the tiny splinters off instead of pushing them back down. After whiskering a couple of times (how many depends on the piece of wood) whisker one final time but don't use anything on it. The water from dampening the wood flashes to steam when dried. This actually steam cleans the wood, blasting saw dust and dirt out of the grain and opening it up to receive the finish. It's the little touches that make a good finish.

December 17, 2014, 10:26 PM	#15
603Country Senior Member Join Date: January 6, 2011 Location: Thornton, Texas Posts: 3,998	I like the mesh cloth idea also, though I'm still a sandpaper guy - because it works Ok and I have mucho sandpaper. I don't ever use steel wool until the finish is cured and I do a rubdown with paste wax and steel wool. I had someone tell me once that I should not do that, since I'd leave bits of steel stuck in the final cured finish and those bits would rust and speckle or freckle the finish. Hmmm. I had a recently done 22 rifle that I used the steel wool and wax on, so I soaked the finish off and on for several days with salt water. And as a control, I put some steel wool in a pan of the same salt water. The steel wool rusted extremely fast. No freckles or speckles ever showed up on the rifle stock, and I used a bright light and a magnifying glass to look for any rust spots, however small. What nobody seems to mention is the use of a sanding sealer to dewhisker. If a fellow is going to use a varnish, shellac, or Waterlox finish, the first coat on the wood should be a sanding sealer of some type. Raise the grain, apply the sanding sealer, let dry and then lightly sand the 'locked in place' whiskers. Nothing I'm aware of will work better than that. Of course it won't work if you are going with some type of oil rubbed finish or wiping varnish finish.

December 18, 2014, 02:16 PM	#16
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	The fault I have with grit screen is the expense, but then it outlasts paper by a good margin because it doesn't load up. It seems that the higher grit sizes are more expensive, too, or 600 is for some reason. The lower grits, like 120 and 220 are used for sanding drywall, so they are much cheaper, and more available. Generally, you can get them in 1/4 and 1/2 sheets so they will fit a sander. You can get this is discs too, but I don't know about the 600. I included three places where you can buy this below. http://www.gregdorrance.com/abranet-..._558_1248.html http://www.supergrit.com/products/pr...sandscreen.asp http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/...t-Variety-Pack The 120 and 220, look at Lowe's, etc too.

December 18, 2014, 07:28 PM	#17
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	I hated doing wood work but did a good bit over the years. I used steel wool to prepare a DCM M1 rifle stock for finishing, and after applying several coats of finish I was looking at the grain with magnification to see how well I was filling the grain. I found a piece of steel wool particle caught in an open pore. I switched to synthetic pads after that, but still checked with magnification for pieces of it in the grain. Again, it's the little things that make for good workmanship.