TC Impact

[stagpanther]

Well--seeing how I have firmly maintained my grip on the title of world's worst deer hunter (meaning I didn't tag out)--in a final act of desperation I bought a TC Impact muzzleloader at Dick's Sporting Goods today--it was on sale for $200 and it will extend my season another 2 weeks.

Per the manual I did a field clean before use--and it took almost 10 patches that were black and filthy before the bore was reasonably clean--and the breech plug had tell-tale reddish look of anti-seize compound on it. I've always had this paranoia that big-box stores resell returned guns as new, but I'm new to black powder so my question is simply does Thomson Center test fire (and not clean) their muzzle loaders before shipping to dealers? The soreness on my backside says probably not--but I've had many other firearms built by reputable manufacturers that are test fired and delivered dirty--but TC is quite adamant about immediately cleaning black powder residue--so this seems unusual to me. What say the collective?

[TripleSe7en]

Clean that bore like your centerfire..... meaning it will eventually need a product that removes lead and copper. White teflon plumbers tape works well for breechplugs. No more than two wrap-arounds. I only use a jag for pushing the bullet down. Otherwise, I swab, clean and oil with a wire brush. I suggest purchasing a 2nd, stronger, little longer ramrod for range work.

What powder, bullet and swabbing liquid will you be using at the range? I use 70% rubbing alcohol in a little spray bottle. Some use the store-bought Windex with Vinegar. Lots of homemade recipes out there.

[stagpanther]

Thanks for that. I bought several types of Powerbelts, and pyrodex sulfur-free pellets and FFG RS powder. I also bought TC's 17 patches as well as a Traditions cleaning kit. I finally got the bore fairly clean and best as I can tell looking at either end with a flashlight I see no obvious pitting--but I still am having trouble figuring out how the bore could be so dirty unless it was fired.

Everything I've read--including the owner's manual--says keep petroleum based cleaners out of the bore--so how would I clean it the same way I do a regular center-fire?

thanks for the advice

[TripleSe7en]

What the manual refers to is keeping oil out of the bore when firing. That's why it's recommended to use dry patches before firing.

Black powder (or substitute/synthetic) is exposed in the barrel, unlike captive centerfire rounds. That fired powder is exposed to the barrel, then mixed with any gun oil will increase carbon fouling / deposits dramatically.

Also, excess oil can really mess with breechplugs, nipples......etc..... creating a misfire. After cleaning and just prior to storing the muzzleloader for a long rest, I remove the breechplug or nipple, then oil the barrel. Most store their rifles with the bore up and removing these items removes any chance of breechplug or nipple oil contamination.

I use a sandwich baggie to hold the breechplug or nipple and attach the bag to the end of the ramrod in my gun safe. You cannot help but see it, when removing the rifle from the safe months later.

Many manuals do state to avoid gun oil, because they want you to be a regular subscriber to their bore butter products. The butter works, if that barrel is completely dry when applying it. Gun oil will displace and remove any remaining moisture. Bore Butter doesn't do that, instead trapping the remaining moisture underneath and any new moisture during storage will be trapped atop the butter in the barrel.

That moisture atop could slide throughout the barrel when tipping the rifle.

A majority of modern-day muzzleloader users use gun oil. A majority of traditionalists probably still use a bore butter-like product. If you want to try one or both, go right ahead and do your own studies on it.

[stagpanther]

Thanks for that--so essentially as long as your bore is bone-dry clean prior to loading--it's OK to use a conventional cleaner like Hoppes or CLP? I think I've read some place that people use an alcohol to get rid of the petroleum distillates prior to loading.

[TripleSe7en]

Some folks use CLP at the range. They say it eliminates the first wayward shot, that sometimes is inches apart from the next round of multiple shots.

A good range swab is either 70% rubbing alcohol in a small spray bottle, or you can purchase Windex with Vinegar. There's a ton more to try, but those work the best for me.

I prefer the alcohol, because it self-dries fast. Using CLP, you may need two dry patches between shots. Using alcohol eliminates one patch.

Get a safety pin to free the breechplug or nipple of burnt powder every several shots to start. Get a better and little longer range ramrod also.

[stagpanther]

Great info--thanks for that. I just called TC and asked them about the dirty bore--they said that they do in fact test fire every rifle--but that they are always cleaned before shipping, and while some carbon may deposit over time there is no way that a new rifle should be that dirty. I gut got sold a "newused" rifle. But TC also said that they would back up and fix any problems that arise. Hard decision whether or not I should simply return it before firing it.

[Pahoo]

Thomson Center test fire (and not clean) their muzzle loaders before shipping to dealers?

Panther,
TC and I have a long working history and to date, Have never seen a dirty "new" gun. Also, I seriously doubt that they test fire "every" rifle as there really isn't any need to do so, too many variables. They may do some quality control sampling and that makes more sense. Since Smith has taken over TC the old rules and policies have gone out the window. Locally we lost out K-Mart and I miss them as well. ..
Another point is the anti-seize. The only product or theirs that I have seen on new rifles, is clear. I personally use a copper based product which is very common and has it's own color. TC may have switched to a colored product as well.
Given all that, by my measure Dick's is a reputable store and would not knowingly sell you a used and faulty gun. Mechanically I don't feel you have a problem but you are certainly within you rights to send it back. In the meantime, your schedule is off.
There is nothing wrong with using petroleum based lubricants in your bore, for storage or cleaning. Problem is making sure you clean it all out, prior to loading. My final swab include the application of Denatured Alcohol.

Be Safe !!!

[stagpanther]

Well--since TC said they would back everything regardless of what I encountered--I took her out to shoot today--and it did just fine--though it took me about 10 rounds to get zeroed at 50 yds. This is definitely new stuff to me--the rapid fouling from the Pyrodex is amazing and so is the copper build-up particularly in the first few inches at the breech end. I still have some work to do learning the new platform.

Incidentally--when I bought the rifle Dick's also sold me Winchester 209 primers--which for some reason do not allow the breech to fully close. I was literally finger on the trigger about to take my first shot but the breech hood wouldn't close all the way--fortunately I reasoned that if that were the case with some primers TC would mention it in their owner's manual (which they don't). A call to TC and they told me that I should not be using winchester 209 primers--CCI or Federal were the preferred ones.

Thanks for the comments!

PS--what is wrong with my schedule??

[TripleSe7en]

Just wait for the best part of muzzleloading hunting...........

............... squeezing that trigger on a nice spiker and not having any idea where he ran........ all due to the thick smoke out of the bore.

Which way did he go/ -- which way did he go?

[stagpanther]

Well 777--I'm kinda hoping that a 50 cal bullet would blow an irrigation ditch through a deer hopefully leaving a good, short trail. : )