Reloading for a semi-auto rifle.

toolguy2006 · December 6, 2012, 12:13 PM

I have recently acquired a brand new Sig Sauer semi auto rifle in .308, and I was planning on reloading for it. I have read that M1A'a tend to be hard on the brass, and one should only reload the cases four times. Is this true for all semi auto rifles? If not, what are the warning signs that the brass is about to give up? To muddy the waters further, this rifle has the option of turning off the gas system, forcing the shooter to cycle the action manually. Would this help with brass life?

Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks all.

mehavey · December 6, 2012, 01:58 PM

I'm not familiar with the SIG's gas sytem, so I can't tell where on the pressure curve it cycles the bolt.
It "could" be very gentle (but I doubt it). Buy Winchester brass and throw it away after 5 firings.

That said, turning the gas system off turns it into a single shot/no auto ejection, and it's effectively a bolt action for case-life purposes.

oldpapps · December 6, 2012, 04:32 PM

I have and shoot a M1A as well as Garands and ARs.

I believe that if the weapon has proper headspacing and the powder burn rate is in the correct rate for the bullet and charge you will not have problems.

What to look for as you reload that brass. The normal neck splits of course. The more difficult to spot potential head separation is not perplexing. During the processing of the brass, check for roughness at or in front of the brasses head in the case body. To make a tool, take a large metal paper clip, straighten it out, more or less and put a very small hook on one end, more of a short sharp tip at a 90 degree bend from the wire. Just stick the sharp hooked end into the case and drag it from the head out. New brass will be smooth, shot brass gets stretched and burned in this area. Make a judgment call, pitch it or load it. I have a broken shell extractor for .308/7.62 and 30.06 and .223/5.56. The only one I have ever used was the '06 and that was some old loads I got from a friend and shot in a bolt rifle.

I have loaded and reloaded some brass 25 and more times. Is that the brass I'm going to use when I go on that once in a life time hunting trip? No, but it works find for other applications.

It is just one more small step to take. I do it after my first cleaning when I'm looking for other flaws in the brass. Not much of a deal to do.

Oh, auto loaders were designed to operate with/at a set loading bracket. Light loads may not cycle the action. Heavy loads may stress the action/operation. I have ran 110 grain V-Max bullets with good results. I refrain from using bullets over 150 grains in weight, not that they don't shoot well, they do. I just don't load them. I like my toys and don't take any chances or do anything to stress them.

Enjoy and be safe,

OSOK

steve4102 · December 6, 2012, 06:04 PM

Here ya Go.
http://www.exteriorballistics.com/re...sgunreload.cfm

mehavey · December 6, 2012, 06:53 PM

The OP might also want to read (`n heed) the Bible here:
http://www.zediker.com/downloads/14_loading.pdf

My calculations = throwing away a 6x-fired Winchester case costs about the same as 2 primers.
Cheapest insurance one will ever buy.

toolguy2006 · December 7, 2012, 10:54 AM

Thank you everyone for the input!

Mehavey, I have read, the info in the link you sent me, and I am going to print a copy for my pile of reference material.

December 6, 2012, 12:13 PM	#1
toolguy2006 Senior Member Join Date: December 28, 2010 Location: Western Washington State Posts: 144	Reloading for a semi-auto rifle. I have recently acquired a brand new Sig Sauer semi auto rifle in .308, and I was planning on reloading for it. I have read that M1A'a tend to be hard on the brass, and one should only reload the cases four times. Is this true for all semi auto rifles? If not, what are the warning signs that the brass is about to give up? To muddy the waters further, this rifle has the option of turning off the gas system, forcing the shooter to cycle the action manually. Would this help with brass life? Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks all.

December 6, 2012, 01:58 PM	#2
mehavey Senior Member Join Date: June 17, 2010 Location: Virginia Posts: 6,886	I'm not familiar with the SIG's gas sytem, so I can't tell where on the pressure curve it cycles the bolt. It "could" be very gentle (but I doubt it). Buy Winchester brass and throw it away after 5 firings. That said, turning the gas system off turns it into a single shot/no auto ejection, and it's effectively a bolt action for case-life purposes.

December 6, 2012, 04:32 PM	#3
oldpapps Senior Member Join Date: September 22, 2011 Location: Middle America Posts: 518	I have and shoot a M1A as well as Garands and ARs. I believe that if the weapon has proper headspacing and the powder burn rate is in the correct rate for the bullet and charge you will not have problems. What to look for as you reload that brass. The normal neck splits of course. The more difficult to spot potential head separation is not perplexing. During the processing of the brass, check for roughness at or in front of the brasses head in the case body. To make a tool, take a large metal paper clip, straighten it out, more or less and put a very small hook on one end, more of a short sharp tip at a 90 degree bend from the wire. Just stick the sharp hooked end into the case and drag it from the head out. New brass will be smooth, shot brass gets stretched and burned in this area. Make a judgment call, pitch it or load it. I have a broken shell extractor for .308/7.62 and 30.06 and .223/5.56. The only one I have ever used was the '06 and that was some old loads I got from a friend and shot in a bolt rifle. I have loaded and reloaded some brass 25 and more times. Is that the brass I'm going to use when I go on that once in a life time hunting trip? No, but it works find for other applications. It is just one more small step to take. I do it after my first cleaning when I'm looking for other flaws in the brass. Not much of a deal to do. Oh, auto loaders were designed to operate with/at a set loading bracket. Light loads may not cycle the action. Heavy loads may stress the action/operation. I have ran 110 grain V-Max bullets with good results. I refrain from using bullets over 150 grains in weight, not that they don't shoot well, they do. I just don't load them. I like my toys and don't take any chances or do anything to stress them. Enjoy and be safe, OSOK

December 6, 2012, 06:04 PM	#4
steve4102 Senior Member Join Date: December 23, 2005 Location: Minnesota Posts: 2,952	Here ya Go. http://www.exteriorballistics.com/re...sgunreload.cfm

December 6, 2012, 06:53 PM	#5
mehavey Senior Member Join Date: June 17, 2010 Location: Virginia Posts: 6,886	The OP might also want to read (`n heed) the Bible here: http://www.zediker.com/downloads/14_loading.pdf My calculations = throwing away a 6x-fired Winchester case costs about the same as 2 primers. Cheapest insurance one will ever buy.

December 7, 2012, 10:54 AM	#6
toolguy2006 Senior Member Join Date: December 28, 2010 Location: Western Washington State Posts: 144	Thank you everyone for the input! Mehavey, I have read, the info in the link you sent me, and I am going to print a copy for my pile of reference material.