Mosin Nagant stock old oil/cosmoline removal

[30cal_Fun]

oke, good to know that, I was worried for a moment that the steam would also leave to much moisture behind.

[olyinaz]

I think you have to be more specific about your goals.

For example, if all you're trying to do is degrease the action and barrel channel, as you originally stated, then a firearms degreasing spray that is similar to brake or circuit cleaner (it's mostly light volatiles - we have several products here with the most common being GunScrubber: http://www.cabelas.com/p-0037557227899a.shtml ) works great. All you have to do is first brush these areas out with a toothbrush and some bore cleaner (in other words something thin to losen it all up) and then hose it all out with the spray cleaner. These sprays are designed to dry almost instantly and leave behind no residue. The fluid that washes out will amaze you (it'll be brown and full of gunk) and it'll also be toxic and terrible for the environment so I would suggest having some paper towels to catch it and then burning those as the least offensive way to get rid of this stuff.

Here is a link to a brake cleaner at my friend's store (I picked UK but they have stores in Scandanavia also):

http://www.clasohlson.co.uk/Product/...x?id=137348490

That product is very similar to GunScrubber but it is not finish or plastics safe.

This product is more similar to "polymer safe" GunScrubber but I still don't vouch for it safety regarding older finishes such as shellacs and varnishes etc.:

http://www.clasohlson.co.uk/Product/...x?id=137348148

So there, that's a lot of info about simply getting some grease out and having a dry surface that will take to resins and epoxies etc.

Now, if you don't care to save the shellac or varnish (and/or actually want to remove it) then a plain old furniture stripper will work just fine! Go to a wood working store or a hardware store and get some stripper, some scrub pads or steel wool, and have at it. A few minutes later you'll have all of it loosened up and ready to wipe off with paper towels. You'll still need to wipe down the stock with some sort of spirit or solvent however in order to get all of the stripper off. Mineral spirits work just fine but others have recommended turpentine to be even less damaging to wood. It's pretty stinky though!

If, on the other hand, you're simply trying to get all of the cosmoline/grease out as well as clean it up, I find that unboiled (unprocessed or raw) linseed (flaxseed) oil actually works great! It's expensive, but if you really slather it on, hit any nooks and crannies with a tooth brush, and then wipe it all back off with rags you will not only lift/wash off a lot of junk (the rags will come away black or really dirty) you'll condition and preserve/protect your stock at the same time. Works great but do bear in mind that raw linseed oil takes weeks to "dry" so your stock will weep a bit of oil for a week or so and you'll want to wipe it down with a rag daily until it stops weeping so as not to mess up your domicile.

Hope this has been helpful! I'm going to get started on a Mauser M24/47 today that I snagged from Big 5 Sporting Goods for $199 yesterday. It's pristine and looks to have a brand new bore so I'm excited to get it cleaned up and out to the range.

You've been doing this for awhile I know so I'm interested in how you get rid of the dirty (and dangerous) rags in Holland? I have a fire pit out back that I incinerate them in [POOF!] because I don't want them to catch fire in my trash or garage but I'm curious if you can do that where you live?

Best,
Oly

[30cal_Fun]

Hi Olyinaz,

This is EXACTLY all the information I needed. Thanks!

I am sure that I want to get all the junk out off the stock.
But I haven't decided whether I'm going to refinish my stock or use a take-off stock for that because I haven't been able to find one. I will keep searching for some time because I would like to keep my rifle as original as possible, but if I can't find one, it doesn't have any special markings so then I will use this one.
So I needed information on all the options.

About the dirty rags, we have public waste containers down the street, so I just dump it in and it gets emptied within one or two weeks. (you got to love the waste management here :P) a lot of things probably went down that hatch that couldn't bare the daylight

Thanks everyone for all the information. I have a good picture of what I can do now.

Louis

[olyinaz]

Great! Have fun and don't forget to show us the end result.

Best,
Oly

[essohbe]

(it's mostly light volatiles - we have several products here with the most common being GunScrubber:"

Exactly what I used. Worked just fine!

[30cal_Fun]

Great! Have fun and don't forget to show us the end result.

I will see for some time if I can still get a replacement stock.
But if I go for it, I will post pics of it.

[HvyMtl]

You want a to Sportster or "original design" replacement stock?

Typically a Sportster stock runs $60ish - $99ish or more - typically from "Advanced Technology"

Example:
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/c....aspx?a=119809

Removes the issue of cosmoline by fully replacing the stock.

As for buying an actual other 91/30 wood stock - well - look for a cheap - poor condition 91/30. Or a wood shop or cabinetry maker might make you one, but expect to pay $.

[30cal_Fun]

I don't feel anything for a (synthetic) sporter stock.
I want an original 91/30 stock to refinish.

[Brasky]

Krud Kutter and hot water. 100% bio friendly, non-toxic and will eat everything off your stock but the wood.

I've used this method twice with great results

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p21MK...eature=related

[HvyMtl]

Here is one place that sells Mosin wood stocks. There are others out there.

http://www.buymilsurp.com/mosin-naga...ds-c-2_10.html

NOTE: I have not used these guys, but they seem to have a good selection.

[Novalondon]

Having used about all of the above posts at one time or another, there is something you need to know up front. Using water to help clean your stock makes it mandatory for you to let the stock dry slowly inside, not in the garage or the backyard in the sun. These old beechwood or even walnut stocks found on some Mosins will crack and split if let dry to quickly. I have a couple in my shop that were brought in for repairs after letting them dry in the sun.
Enjoy the rifle and for what it is worth, As new, all Mosins were just oiled stocks when issued out to the troops. The redish varnish is Russian refurb and the rest are from other countries that snatched them off the battlefields or were a surrendered weapon on capture.
On an M1 Garrand forum I am on I got a mixture used to rub out these old stocks. From Walnut to Beechwood and any other wood stock this works superbly and makes them repel water, finger and hand oils and gives the old rifle a low sheen , just like when new. Keep the spouse happy and wait until she is not home as the smell is strong when heating this up.
In a small sauce pan mix the following over a low heat. Equal amounts of bees wax, turpentine and Tung oil. Melt the bees wax ( I used a 1 pound piece) and slowly mix all the parts together as one. Get a small cookie tin or something with a lid and pour this into it and let it cool. My tin is about 3 inches deep and 5 inches across. I have been using this batch for a few years and I know I have rubbed out at least 25 stocks. I have still not used a third of it yet.
Once cool and your stock is at hand do the following.
Take of any rings you may have on and get a dab on about 3 finger tips and start rubbing it in in a circular motion or a straight line, whichever you prefer. After getting it all smoothed in now use your palm and rub it a little harder so the friction gets warm. This action causes the mix to get into the grain and seal out moistures and oils. Do this to the entire stock and repeat it until your tired. The more you do it the more it protects and seals the wood.
After your done rubbing it in use a silicone cloth and rub the entire stock in a polishing fashion. After you have gotten the sheen to come up set the stock aside for the night and and let it harden. Tomorrow you will have a beautiful stock, not shiney, not flat but just as the way it was when it was new. Best of all it is now pretty much water proofed and oil resistant from body oils and will keep its lusture for a long time.

[SainthoodDenied]

The last one I picked up was an unaltered model 91 and it was covered and packed in grease so I took it apart and put the metal pieces in the oven on the lowest setting and sweated it out and the stock I wrapped in newspapers and then in a black garbage bag and laid it on the dash of my truck which faces the sun all afternoon.
I'd take it out every night and wipe it down and replace with dry news paper and in a few days it had pulled all the grease and gunk out of the stock and you could see a big difference then before doing anything else to it.

[30cal_Fun]

Thanks for all the tips.

I think I have a pretty good idea of what to do with my stock now.

The biggest problem I have is that after some shooting the barrel barrel heats up and the stock starts to "sweat". I think that is some of the cosmoline they used when this stock was refurbished. I guess simple heat has been the key all along
When I have time on my hands and when I find a replacement stock, I will post how I did it and the results, but that will be a month or two at least, first I have to get through this year of college.

Thanks everyone, for all the kind tips and how-to's that you have posted here, It will be very helpful when I start refinishing my stock.

Kind regards, Louis