First time loading 9mm

RetiredMajor · March 10, 2010, 01:34 PM

I'm still new to handloading and have loaded about 1000 rounds of 45ACP. I've fired about half of those and am doing well and having fun with it.

Now, I'm ready to convert over to 9mm. I'll be using once fired brass, Remington Small Pistol Primers, jacketed round nose bullets, and Hodgdon HP-38 powder.

Anything I should keep in mind with the 9mm loads? I'd appreciate advice from those of you who load 9mm.

Thanks,
Major

Nate1778 · March 10, 2010, 01:39 PM

Get the correct length, light crimp, just enough to take the bell out. Watch out for military primer crimps in your brass. You can tell it usually by a two number date of manufacturer, a NATO symbol and it usually won't say the name or caliber. The ones I run into the most are marked WCC. Remember the 9mm is a tapered case and you'll feel a bit more resistance in the press then the .45. Good luck.

doctruptwn · March 10, 2010, 02:04 PM

Nate thanks for adding that about the resistance. I'm in the same boat as the OP and had just deprimed some brass this morning and noticed there was some added resistance. Wondered if that was normal.

jepp2 · March 10, 2010, 02:52 PM

The 9mm is a much higher pressure round. It is also much more susceptible to subtle changes in OAL that can result in dramatic increases in pressure.

Just be sure you aren't getting any setback when the round is chambered and make sure you know the OAL for the load you are developing, and be very cautious about making them shorter.

shu · March 11, 2010, 09:47 AM

Indeed. SAAMI max pressure for
45ACP ..... 21,000 psi
9mm lugar 35,000 psi
9mm +P ... 38,500 psi
9mm NATO 42,000 psi

The 9mm is a small case, relatively more filled with powder than 45ACP. Seating the bullet too deep reduces the size of the 'combustion chamber' relatively more, and thus a larger influence on pressure.

Lots of folks load 9mm safely.. Just something to be aware of.

9mm is also a tapered case, outside diameter smaller at the case mouth than near the base; 45ACP is straight wall.

I assume you do have one or more good reloading manuals at your desk.

Jim243 · March 11, 2010, 10:02 AM

The only difference on loading 9mm than 45 ACP is you will need more of everything, bullets, primers, powder and cases. I do not know why but I use up twice as many 9mms as I do 45s, no make that 4 times as many.

Jim

88KEYS · March 11, 2010, 10:13 AM

I would add that if you have just starting loading, I would keep the amounts lower. If you make a mistake and have loaded 100 rounds, no big deal pull them. If you have made 1000, it makes it harder, I have done this so wanted to share that tip.

Dr. Strangelove · March 11, 2010, 10:37 AM

Don't tumble empty .40 S&W and 9mm together unless you need some practice cursing. The 9mm nests inside the .40 and is a real pain to get apart, .45auto isn't so bad to do it.

arkieron · March 11, 2010, 12:36 PM

124 grain bullet, 1.12oal, and about 3.95 gr hp 38 or win231 will get you minor power factor and really good function and accuracy. I use this load in a g34 and a Beretta 92. I haven't function tested my 80 series 1911 colt yet. I know the pistol will run with the load, but don't know if slide will stay back when empty. lighter loads shot ok but did not engage slide lock.

spacecoast · March 11, 2010, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Watch out for military primer crimps in your brass.

Nate1778 -

What's the issue with the military primer crimped brass?

Major -

You can probably save a few cents per round going with the plated bullets. Berry's 115gr. works well for me in 9 mm.

Ridge_Runner_5 · March 11, 2010, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Nate1778 -

What's the issue with the military primer crimped brass?

Unless you remove the crimps, they have a tendency to break the pins when you try to remove the spent primers...

Doby45 · March 11, 2010, 01:29 PM

How is it you remove the crimp "prior" to removing the spent primer?

Doby45 · March 11, 2010, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Nate1778 -

What's the issue with the military primer crimped brass?

AFTER you remove the primer you need to remove the "crimp" or it will be difficult if not impossible to seat a new primer in the brass.

RichC · March 11, 2010, 01:32 PM

I've found that a couple of squirts of One Shot over the cases reduces the amount of force required on a Dillon 550B. It just makes it easier.

I use 115gr FMJ Montana Gold Bullets with an OAL of 1.125 with 6.0gr of Power Pistol works well. It is a snappy load, but very clean. Power Pistol does give quite a muzzle flash, but I don't mind that at all.

Nate1778 · March 11, 2010, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Nate1778 -

What's the issue with the military primer crimped brass?

As others stated above, trying to cram a new primer into a crimped pocket is a deal breaker. Not an issue if you know about it and and can de-crimp them after de-priming, but if your running a progressive, and one sneaks in on a lot of 100 casings it will bring things to a screeching halt. You'll know one the first time you cram a primer into it, I have never detonated a primer, but the stroke feels wrong and on a single stage/turret can also lock the casing to the shell holder.

spacecoast · March 11, 2010, 03:50 PM

Quote:

AFTER you remove the primer you need to remove the "crimp" or it will be difficult if not impossible to seat a new primer in the brass.

Hmmm... I've seen and I'm pretty sure I've reloaded some of the "WCC" brass cases, and I've never noticed a problem seating the primers. Of course, I'm using a hand press, so maybe that's an advantage

I'll check out a few of my reloads when I'm able.

spacecoast · March 12, 2010, 06:42 AM

OK, I checked 150 reloaded 9mm rounds and found 5 without caliber markings. Three have a cross in a circle (the Nato marking?) and are marked WCC 01, WCC 02 and WCC 04. Two others are marked "WCC +P 04" and do not have the circled cross.

If these would have been especially hard to prime I would have noticed, do they have the military crimps?

Other "different" brass in that batch - a couple marked "ICC 9mm", one "ACP 96 9mm" and a couple of "Topbrass".

Jim243 · March 12, 2010, 09:50 AM

spacecoast

You have the luck of the Irish with you, the Nato markings indicate that they were Mil cases. Some one before you must have "swaged" or is it "swedged" the cases before you found them. Be carefull that the primer pockets are not too big and that your primers are in them "TIGHT". I have had one or two primers fall out of cases and it is a mess to clean up, not to memtion that they will malfunction in a semi-auto.

It's like walking a tight rope, they should be not too loose or excessively tight but just right and snug. In time you will know by feel if there is a problem when loading primers.

Good luck and stay safe.
Jim

spacecoast · March 12, 2010, 10:00 AM

Thanks, I may try to filter the NATO pieces in the future since they seem to be pretty rare. I also learned that ACP comes from the Philippines - who woulda guessed. Not sure about ICC. I guess brass is kinda like pocket change, it tends to scatter all over the place (and lasts a LONG time).

Nate1778 · March 12, 2010, 10:22 AM

Sounds like it was swagged, the WCC I get just kind of crunches the primer into place, if it will go in at all. Either way, stay vigilant, it makes reloading 9mm kind of a pain as each head stamp needs to be looked at before I keep it, Where as a .38 is a .38 is a .38 and it all goes in the stash.

ClemBert · March 12, 2010, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Unless you remove the crimps, they have a tendency to break the pins when you try to remove the spent primers...

I'm also interested in knowing how the crimps are removed. Is there a tool or technique used?

Nate1778 · March 12, 2010, 11:00 AM

You can start as little as using your case chamfering tool and go all the way up to swagging machines for large batches. I find so little of them I chuck them, but some like using them.

ClemBert · March 12, 2010, 11:20 AM

Okay, I get it....

RCBS Primer Pocket Swager

or

CH TOOL Primer Pocket Swager & Priming Tool

ClemBert · March 12, 2010, 11:29 AM

Read all about it:

First here.

Second here.

fpchief · March 13, 2010, 01:31 PM

I have not used all the different swage tools, but if you have any amount of rounds to do, the Dillon Super Swage (no i am not a dillon fanatic-i use hornady), works fast and easy. My 8 yr. old does all my swaging of 5.56. You set it and it works. does not use your press, is its own deal. A few hundred an hour is no problem.

March 10, 2010, 01:34 PM	#1
RetiredMajor Senior Member Join Date: January 20, 2008 Location: Dubuque, Iowa Posts: 456	First time loading 9mm I'm still new to handloading and have loaded about 1000 rounds of 45ACP. I've fired about half of those and am doing well and having fun with it. Now, I'm ready to convert over to 9mm. I'll be using once fired brass, Remington Small Pistol Primers, jacketed round nose bullets, and Hodgdon HP-38 powder. Anything I should keep in mind with the 9mm loads? I'd appreciate advice from those of you who load 9mm. Thanks, Major __________________ RetiredMajor, NRA Certified Instructor Every day's a holiday and every meal's a feast!

March 10, 2010, 01:39 PM	#2
Nate1778 Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2009 Location: Louisville Ky Posts: 312	Get the correct length, light crimp, just enough to take the bell out. Watch out for military primer crimps in your brass. You can tell it usually by a two number date of manufacturer, a NATO symbol and it usually won't say the name or caliber. The ones I run into the most are marked WCC. Remember the 9mm is a tapered case and you'll feel a bit more resistance in the press then the .45. Good luck. __________________ "And finally, the Baby Bear looked and he said, "Somebody's sleeping in my bed, and the bastard's still there!" But Goldylocks had a Remington semi-automatic, with a scope and a hair-trigger!"

March 11, 2010, 09:47 AM	#5
shu Senior Member Join Date: May 11, 2000 Location: lower rio grande valley, texas Posts: 216	Indeed. SAAMI max pressure for 45ACP ..... 21,000 psi 9mm lugar 35,000 psi 9mm +P ... 38,500 psi 9mm NATO 42,000 psi The 9mm is a small case, relatively more filled with powder than 45ACP. Seating the bullet too deep reduces the size of the 'combustion chamber' relatively more, and thus a larger influence on pressure. Lots of folks load 9mm safely.. Just something to be aware of. 9mm is also a tapered case, outside diameter smaller at the case mouth than near the base; 45ACP is straight wall. I assume you do have one or more good reloading manuals at your desk. __________________ If you would have Liberty you must accept that individual security is not the responsiblity of government. You must. - XAVIER ONASIS

March 11, 2010, 12:36 PM	#9
arkieron Member Join Date: January 10, 2009 Location: Fort Smith Posts: 45	9mm 124 grain bullet, 1.12oal, and about 3.95 gr hp 38 or win231 will get you minor power factor and really good function and accuracy. I use this load in a g34 and a Beretta 92. I haven't function tested my 80 series 1911 colt yet. I know the pistol will run with the load, but don't know if slide will stay back when empty. lighter loads shot ok but did not engage slide lock.

March 12, 2010, 10:22 AM	#20
Nate1778 Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2009 Location: Louisville Ky Posts: 312	Sounds like it was swagged, the WCC I get just kind of crunches the primer into place, if it will go in at all. Either way, stay vigilant, it makes reloading 9mm kind of a pain as each head stamp needs to be looked at before I keep it, Where as a .38 is a .38 is a .38 and it all goes in the stash. __________________ "And finally, the Baby Bear looked and he said, "Somebody's sleeping in my bed, and the bastard's still there!" But Goldylocks had a Remington semi-automatic, with a scope and a hair-trigger!"

March 10, 2010, 02:04 PM	#3
doctruptwn Senior Member Join Date: December 6, 2008 Location: Kansas Posts: 197	Nate thanks for adding that about the resistance. I'm in the same boat as the OP and had just deprimed some brass this morning and noticed there was some added resistance. Wondered if that was normal.

March 10, 2010, 02:52 PM	#4
jepp2 Senior Member Join Date: December 24, 2008 Location: Loveland, CO Posts: 1,476	The 9mm is a much higher pressure round. It is also much more susceptible to subtle changes in OAL that can result in dramatic increases in pressure. Just be sure you aren't getting any setback when the round is chambered and make sure you know the OAL for the load you are developing, and be very cautious about making them shorter.

March 11, 2010, 10:02 AM	#6
Jim243 Senior Member Join Date: January 5, 2009 Location: Just off Route 66 Posts: 5,067	The only difference on loading 9mm than 45 ACP is you will need more of everything, bullets, primers, powder and cases. I do not know why but I use up twice as many 9mms as I do 45s, no make that 4 times as many. Jim

March 11, 2010, 10:13 AM	#7
88KEYS Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2010 Posts: 145	I would add that if you have just starting loading, I would keep the amounts lower. If you make a mistake and have loaded 100 rounds, no big deal pull them. If you have made 1000, it makes it harder, I have done this so wanted to share that tip.

March 11, 2010, 10:37 AM	#8
Dr. Strangelove Senior Member Join Date: August 1, 2008 Location: Athens, GA Posts: 1,436	Don't tumble empty .40 S&W and 9mm together unless you need some practice cursing. The 9mm nests inside the .40 and is a real pain to get apart, .45auto isn't so bad to do it.

March 11, 2010, 01:29 PM	#12
Doby45 Senior Member Join Date: January 19, 2009 Location: Powder Springs, GA Posts: 213	How is it you remove the crimp "prior" to removing the spent primer?

March 11, 2010, 01:32 PM	#14
RichC Member Join Date: April 30, 2009 Posts: 88	I've found that a couple of squirts of One Shot over the cases reduces the amount of force required on a Dillon 550B. It just makes it easier. I use 115gr FMJ Montana Gold Bullets with an OAL of 1.125 with 6.0gr of Power Pistol works well. It is a snappy load, but very clean. Power Pistol does give quite a muzzle flash, but I don't mind that at all.

March 12, 2010, 06:42 AM	#17
spacecoast Senior Member Join Date: October 14, 2009 Location: Sunshine and Keystone States Posts: 4,461	OK, I checked 150 reloaded 9mm rounds and found 5 without caliber markings. Three have a cross in a circle (the Nato marking?) and are marked WCC 01, WCC 02 and WCC 04. Two others are marked "WCC +P 04" and do not have the circled cross. If these would have been especially hard to prime I would have noticed, do they have the military crimps? Other "different" brass in that batch - a couple marked "ICC 9mm", one "ACP 96 9mm" and a couple of "Topbrass".

March 12, 2010, 09:50 AM	#18
Jim243 Senior Member Join Date: January 5, 2009 Location: Just off Route 66 Posts: 5,067	spacecoast You have the luck of the Irish with you, the Nato markings indicate that they were Mil cases. Some one before you must have "swaged" or is it "swedged" the cases before you found them. Be carefull that the primer pockets are not too big and that your primers are in them "TIGHT". I have had one or two primers fall out of cases and it is a mess to clean up, not to memtion that they will malfunction in a semi-auto. It's like walking a tight rope, they should be not too loose or excessively tight but just right and snug. In time you will know by feel if there is a problem when loading primers. Good luck and stay safe. Jim

March 12, 2010, 10:00 AM	#19
spacecoast Senior Member Join Date: October 14, 2009 Location: Sunshine and Keystone States Posts: 4,461	Thanks, I may try to filter the NATO pieces in the future since they seem to be pretty rare. I also learned that ACP comes from the Philippines - who woulda guessed. Not sure about ICC. I guess brass is kinda like pocket change, it tends to scatter all over the place (and lasts a LONG time).

March 12, 2010, 11:00 AM	#22
Nate1778 Senior Member Join Date: January 21, 2009 Location: Louisville Ky Posts: 312	You can start as little as using your case chamfering tool and go all the way up to swagging machines for large batches. I find so little of them I chuck them, but some like using them. __________________ "And finally, the Baby Bear looked and he said, "Somebody's sleeping in my bed, and the bastard's still there!" But Goldylocks had a Remington semi-automatic, with a scope and a hair-trigger!"

March 12, 2010, 11:20 AM	#23
ClemBert Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2009 Location: Orlando Posts: 936	Okay, I get it.... RCBS Primer Pocket Swager or CH TOOL Primer Pocket Swager & Priming Tool

March 12, 2010, 11:29 AM	#24
ClemBert Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2009 Location: Orlando Posts: 936	Read all about it: First here. Second here.

March 13, 2010, 01:31 PM	#25
fpchief Senior Member Join Date: February 12, 2010 Posts: 122	I have not used all the different swage tools, but if you have any amount of rounds to do, the Dillon Super Swage (no i am not a dillon fanatic-i use hornady), works fast and easy. My 8 yr. old does all my swaging of 5.56. You set it and it works. does not use your press, is its own deal. A few hundred an hour is no problem.