Another reloader newbie :)

[dbomb]

Hi all,

I have decided to jump in and start reloading. I figure I will have fun and save some cash in the long run. not too much but every little counts these days.

I have been doing my homework and decided to jump into a progressive press, I was between the Dillon and Hornady, but decided on the Hornady LNL AP.
So far thats all I have got. My list is growing as read more and more. Those youtube videos help big time!!

I like the fact that you dont have to put lube on the cases when resizing them. Since I will start slowly I figure I stick with the Hornady dies. Do I need to use lube with those dies?. I hear alot about carbide dies, but havent read if the Horandy dies are carbide.

I will be reloading .223 and .45.


The next items are as follows:
-Digital scale & caliper
-books
-and some kind of power measure die to avoid double loads.

I wouldn't mind a single stage. but I read a post where the guy said you can just do one action at time until ready for a full run. which made total sense.

Lots of information out there which is good but at the same time somewhat overwhelming. Can anyone recommend an average manufactorer for brass and priming.
Most of my shooting will be for plinking. I do have a 300 win mag but I dont shoot that one as much. but will eventually reload for it too.

This forum seems to be very active with tons of info.

[Big Caliber]

Welcome to TFL. Lots of great and useful info on all the forums. I have not loaded my 45acp lately as I've been infected with LRRV (long range rifle virus), but as I recall you don't need to lube a straight walled case such as the 45acp using carbide dies. However, I would double check on your 223 case. A case stuck in the re-sizing die can be a beach to remove. Try the Hornady One Shot lube. I line up my rifle cases on a serving tray and give them a light dusting. They re-size smoothly. I retired my digital calipers when I found they were off by 0.003". I now use an RCBS dial caliper and the improvment in my loads is a whole lot more than I expected. Just my $0.02 worth.

[farnorthdan]

I would recommend getting a single stage to start out with. They really aren't that expensive and it gives you a chance to learn the fundamentals first. I like the idea of slowing things down before you start cranking them out rapid fire (pun intended).

I've been reloading for a few years and am still rolling my own on a single stage. Myself, I enjoy reloading as a hobby more than mass producing. I've also had a squib or two and the single stage is easier for me to monitor quality, diagnose problems and spot any potential problems.

Its not hard for me to do 300 to 400 rounds in just a few hours.

As far as lubing, I don't bother with lubing my pistol cases (anything straight walled) but you definitely want to lube well on those .223, believe me a stuck case is no fun. I did finally break down and get an RCBS stuck case remover here recently and I must say its money well spent...


DS

[Inspector3711]

I have to agree with farnorthdan.... For a start buy a cheap single stage press. I have an RCBS Reloader Special 5 that I got as a free hand me down. I think Lyman probably makes a great low end press that's even cheaper. You can get a used press too. I like my press but I'm not a big fan of some of the RCBS accessories.

As I have learned over the last year, it's definitely better to catch your mistakes after 1 or 2 rounds. Believe me, you can and will make mistakes. With a progressive press a mistake may mean pulling a lot of bullets or, worse still, missing a mistake.

Much of my time is spent prepping cases. Uniforming and trimming takes alot of time. I've gone electric with trimming and pocket uniforming but it still take awhile to do. A progressive won't help with case prep time. Once I have prep done I can easily make 100 rounds of .223 per hour. As long as I am firing brass that I've prepped before, all I have to do is tumble the brass and clean the pockets. Now that I've bought Lee collet dies for all of my calibers, trimming happens after the first firing and then rarely afterwards.

I install primers with the Hornady hand priming tool, not with my press. I feel it gives me better process control. I now have a Lyman 1200 DPS 3 powder measuring system. It weighs powder while I seat a bullet. Everytime I get a bullet seated, the next load of powder is ready to pour. I used to weight each load up on a Redding beam scale.

Someday I may buy a progressive but there may be a turret press between now and then.

I like Winchester brass but use remington, lake city, and federal range brass for my .223.

I use CCI primers for some loads but I'm working with Federal Match primers for most rifle loads I have going now.

Bottleneck rifle cartridges like the .223 will not have carbide die availability. For the .45 you can get carbide.

My advice for the .223: Get a 3 die set of Lee collet dies. You will have the option of full length resizing but for the most part will use the collet die. The collet die requires no lubrication of the brass. The collet offers longer brass life because it moves less brass in the forming process. The collet die also helps insure that the bullet is centered in the case.

For full length resizing you can use a number of lubes one of which is Kiwi neutral shoe polish or their mink oil that runs about $3 a can and will do several thousands of rounds. I use Imperial but plan on trying kiwi next time I run out. Use the case lube only on the area below the case shoulder. When full length resizing you need to lube the inside of the case neck. Some guys use case lube real carefully but I want something dry in there that's quick and easy so i dip a .22 caliber cleaning brush in dry graphite and run it into the case real quick. I do 3-4 cases per application of graphite to the brush.

I don't think you can double load a .223, it won't fit, but the .45 I think you can. You can figure out what 10 finished rounds should weigh and then weigh 10 at a time to ensure your loads aren't doubled up. I just make sure I stand up when I load rounds that could be dobled. I'm always looking into an empty case when I dump powder in.

You'll need a case trimmer and I love my Forster. If you buy from Cabelas it comes in a kit with collets and arbors to fit most everything. The kit is around $60. Most trimmer kits run closer to $100. The power adapter for a drill or driver is only 6-7 bucks while some other brands eother don't have one or want 20-30 bucks. I'm holding +/- .0005 on trim length.

I don't like the Lyman pocket uniforming tools. They cut too slow and don't hold up well in a drill. I switched to RCBS made for their power trimming system and they work much better if you use a drill.

[Smaug]

I would get a single stage too. Oh, wait, I did.

Actually, I went up to a turret, and decided I like single stage better. It is safer, but slower. With single stage, you can do a quality check after each step. Make sure the primer is seated right, make sure you haven't double-charged or no-charged a case, etc.

Check out my videos (linked below)

If you've already made up your mind about progressive, be very careful.

Regarding case lubing, here's how it goes: if you have necked cases, you need to lube, so they don't get stuck in the steel sizing die.

If you have straight-walled cases and a carbide sizing die, you don't need the lube.

[kraigwy]

I have carbide dies in 223 and 308, They are carbide but they still need lubed or you'll get stuck cases.

I dont lube straight walled pistol brass when I use carbide dies.

As to primers you need to experiement. You cant take data from a reloading manuel and expect the same results.

Example is for Sierra's benchmark powder loading for the 204. I use their load for the 32 grn bullet expecting about 4200 fps. I got 3700 fps and high pressure signs, I did nothing but change the primer and went to 4300 fps with no pressure signs.

Two things I would recommend to add to your reloading list, A bullet puller and a stuck case remover. They are just like eracers for pincels and white out for typewriters. (or back space for keyboads). Mistakes are gonna be made. The most common can be fixed with a bullet puller and a stuck case remover.

Have fun and enjoy.

[jamaica]

Lots of information out there which is good but at the same time somewhat overwhelming. Can anyone recommend an average manufactorer for brass and priming.

I get most of my brass from buying factory ammo. Have you been shooting? Have you been saving your brass? Pistol brass will last a long time. Tapered and necked brass may have to be trimmed now and then and you can get several loadings out of them. Always check the length. I have bought a bit of .357 brass and it is expensive. I can't recommend any specific brand. I just buy what is available the day I am looking. It has been hard to find lately. Every time I go to the range I pick up a bunch of 45 Auto brass. Never any 357 brass lying around though.

About primers. CCI primers have treated me very well so that is what I buy. This is also the brand most often in stock locally so that is a factor too.

Hey, its a great hobby. Enjoy and be safe.

[dbomb]

Thanks, I realy wanted to start with a single stage and after many commnets I probably will get one. I just couldnt pass up the deal with Hornady for the 1000 bullets. Seem like I bought a progressive for the price of single stage. I will try to sell it though I still have time before I get all my supplies.

I have been saving my brass but just started to so I have while before I stock up.

I cant wait to start, the more I read the more I get into it. I think I will be hooked once I start.

I read good reviews about the RCBS SS still deciding though. I like the hornandy classic because I can use the bushing when I move up to a proggressive. I just like to most efficient as possible. you know best bang for your buck type of deal

Thanks again for all the advise.

[Smaug]

If possible, keep the progressive press.

In the meantime, buy a less expensive Lee press for your starting single stage work. There's the Lee Reloader press for something like $20, and the Challenger for something like $50. Or maybe the hand press, also for around $20-30.

Then, you'll have a choice when you do go progressive.

If you end up not going progressive, you can sell the press new-in-box on ebay or gunbroker.

[Shoney]

dbomb
There is no reason you can't start your hand loading on the LNL AP.

I've been loading for over 48 years, have several single stage presses, a 550, and the LNL AP. Of all the progressive presses, the LNL AP is the most ideal for a novice to start on.

The beauty of the LNL is that you can easily and quickly remove all dies and start loading by doing just one operation at a time. With only the sizing die in, you can resize and prime all your cases; remove the sizing die and install the powder measure/belling die and charge each case; remove the powder measure and install the seating/crimp die and seat and crimp bullets into the case.

By using this method you can easily learn each step in the loading process and gradually move on to full progressive. How fast you advance depends on your learning curve for mechanics and your tollerance for frustration.

Good Shooting!!!!!

[Doc K]

Shoney is pretty good about encouraging newbies like me and dbomb.
The only experience that I have is what I have done in the last few weeks.
I have had a blast (more ways than one) teaching myself how to use a progressive press.
Since I don't desire a case feeder for now, my LnL serves me well.
( Even though I have been educated via PM that for a silly $9 more I could have had a V8, aka a Dillon 649)
The only help that I have had is from Forums like this one. (Thanks guys)
I’m going REEEEEEEL slow. I only load 25 to 50 or so cartridges at a time. Then I go shoot when I can.
My most paranoid thoughts come from doing double taps in the future and the possibility of a squib. My plan is to put in plenty of time before I put my full confidence in the LnL and my abilities.
My “Hornady Case-Activated-Powder-Drop/RCBS Lock-Out-Die TEAM” seems to be doing a good job, but I need a long time to build a trusting relationship.

My first re-loads:
200gr. LSWC fired under Winchester primers and 231 powder.
4.8 gr of 231 seemed pretty soft
5.2 gr feels better (more accurate? Possibly)

My local range prefers that we re-cycle only the brass that we shoot, so I have bought a few “K” of cartridges to build up a supply.
These two sources did me well for about a nickel a case for once-fired .45 ACP.

http://store.tjconevera.com/index.html
(Almost all Winchester, cleaned and deprimed)

http://seminolebrassandbullet.com/shop/
(Mixed, cleaned)

Dad gummit, this is fun.

You won't hear this from me:
"You smell that? Do you smell that?...Lee Alox, son. Nothing else in the world smells like that. I love the smell of Alox in the morning....Smells like victory!”:barf:

[dbomb]

Yes this forum does encourage you to keep going, Im now getting my list of different accesories that I will need.
still a lil undecided about the case trimmer. I dont mind the extra work as long as is a good trimmer. Motorized ones are good but I dont think im there yet.

I was thinking of a very simple one from LEE. and I can attach it to a drill if I need to. What else do you suggest? or should I stick with this one.

Thanks,

[dbomb]

Inspector3711, I just double check your post and see your recomendations for the trimmers I will check them out. I think I go electric eventually, but at this tiem I have lots of time in my hands so this will keep me busy.

[44Magnum]

I use the Lee trimmers for everything. I attach the shellholder to the drill and can turn them out quickly. While I have them in the drill I stick the chamfer tool up to the cases too. Accuracy is +/- .001"

[ZX10Aviator]

Im a reloading noob too so Im reading up on all the items.. Ive really been looking at the anniversary Lee kit, great reviews and will work for what Im doing well.

Subscribed.

[Locoweed]

Yes, a single stage to begin with. Learn each individual step in detail before moving on to a progressive. RCBS press, powder measure and digital scales, then Lee dies, shellholder set and hand priming tool. Buy a couple different reloading manuals. RCBS, by the way, has absolutely stellar customer service, Lee will save you money on dies. Get various catalogs and study what's available.

[dbomb]

The more im reading the more I want, so im writing a wish list, then if it fits my budget I will get it or will have to cut corners.

The books that I have in mind are the Honardy 7th edition and the lyman 49th edition.

For my 223 Die I will get Hornady, again just because of the special with teh free 100 rounds which will almost offset the price. 30.99 plus the free 100 bullets.

For the Chamfer and deburrying tool, I will get the RCBS item# 9349 14.99

Most likely I will get military once shot ammo firts, on youtube someone was using the RCBS chamfer tool to remove the primer crimps but just in case I will get the hornady prime pocket reamer tool. Seems like a reasonable price for its job function 9.99

"Big Calibe" mentioned that he had a small problem with the digital caliper so i will use a dial one RCBS #87301 40.99

For the scale I like the RRedding #2 Master Magnetic Powder Scale 505 Grain Capacity maf# 02000 65.99

So far thats what I have. still have a few things to research.