Close the Cylinder/Barrel Gap

Smokin'Joe · April 23, 2011, 06:09 PM

I reduced the barrel to cylinder gap on my brass frame Pietta from .008" to .004". First I removed the alignment pins with Vise Grip pliers. They pull straight out. They were slightly dented in the process but they are soft steel and were filed smooth and reused.

Insert arbor into recess in barrel and twist barrel and frame side to side while holding abrasive paper or cloth between the two. This technique will allow you to remove metal from either or both surfaces. A like amount of metal was removed from the arbor to allow for proper mating of the two parts.

On my gun the wedge is still quite usable. It seats in deeper but still does its job. I did, however, notice that the clearance between the wedge spring rivet and the wedge retaining screw was pretty close so I filed the screw head down to increase the clearance at that point. Reinstall the alignment pins with Lock Tite if you feel the need.

Bill Akins · April 23, 2011, 08:13 PM

Excellent. That's the reverse procedure I advised someone to do wherein I advised them to install a shim over their frame pins to INCREASE their barrel to cylinder gap because their cylinder was too close and binding against the forcing cone.

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Hawg · April 23, 2011, 08:42 PM

ummm, .008 is better than .004 with bp.

Smokin'Joe · April 23, 2011, 10:27 PM

Hawg, You may be right for target shooting where many rounds are fired. I like a tight gap for a carry weapon. All I will fire is one cylinder worth or maybe two if I bring along a spare

April 23, 2011, 06:09 PM	#1
Smokin'Joe Senior Member Join Date: December 27, 2010 Posts: 211	Close the Cylinder/Barrel Gap I reduced the barrel to cylinder gap on my brass frame Pietta from .008" to .004". First I removed the alignment pins with Vise Grip pliers. They pull straight out. They were slightly dented in the process but they are soft steel and were filed smooth and reused. Insert arbor into recess in barrel and twist barrel and frame side to side while holding abrasive paper or cloth between the two. This technique will allow you to remove metal from either or both surfaces. A like amount of metal was removed from the arbor to allow for proper mating of the two parts. On my gun the wedge is still quite usable. It seats in deeper but still does its job. I did, however, notice that the clearance between the wedge spring rivet and the wedge retaining screw was pretty close so I filed the screw head down to increase the clearance at that point. Reinstall the alignment pins with Lock Tite if you feel the need.

April 23, 2011, 08:13 PM	#2
Bill Akins Senior Member Join Date: August 28, 2007 Location: Hudson, Florida Posts: 1,135	Excellent. That's the reverse procedure I advised someone to do wherein I advised them to install a shim over their frame pins to INCREASE their barrel to cylinder gap because their cylinder was too close and binding against the forcing cone. . __________________ "This is my Remy and this is my Colt. Remy loads easy and topstrap strong, Colt balances better and never feels wrong. A repro black powder revolver gun, they smoke and shoot lead and give me much fun. I can't figure out which one I like better, they're both fine revolvers that fit in my leather". "To be sure of hitting the target, shoot first and call whatever you hit the target".

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April 23, 2011, 08:42 PM	#3
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,188	ummm, .008 is better than .004 with bp.

April 23, 2011, 10:27 PM	#4
Smokin'Joe Senior Member Join Date: December 27, 2010 Posts: 211	Hawg, You may be right for target shooting where many rounds are fired. I like a tight gap for a carry weapon. All I will fire is one cylinder worth or maybe two if I bring along a spare