Trigger Serrations

[Shoots Left]

Hi all,

I want to have a trigger for my new (to me) P230 serrated. There is a gun shop, south of the border in Spring, whose gunsmith now has a fiber laser printer. I have a couple of spare triggers to experiment on and I’m hoping that this might be a reasonably priced option.

My reason for this is that the distance between the trigger break and the back of the guns frame is somewhat shorter than the larger guns I usually shoot and my hands are XL according to my old work gloves. I’m noticing that I am curling my trigger finger more to finish the travel to the break. Now that summer is here, along with our world class humidity, I am drying off my trigger finger and trigger with regularity in order to keep my finger from slipping around on the trigger. I’m hoping that this will allow me to stay positioned on the trigger better.

I have ruled out wearing gloves and a trigger shoe is currently not under consideration.

Vertical serrations are the only type of trigger texture that I am aware of as I really have never given any thought to if, or how a trigger is serrated.

Now to the point…

Is there another pattern or texture for the trigger that I might want to consider other than vertical serrations?

Thanks.

[Bill DeShivs]

Yep-

Since you have extra triggers, go to Walmart or Ebay and buy an "electric pencil" vibrating engraver. They cost about $20.

Practice on some scrap metal by letting the engraver bounce off the metal by holding it semi-loosely. The metal should be securely mounted in a vise. These electric engravers have a knob that adjusts the stroke from light to heavy.

Once you have the technique down, you will have a finely stippled trigger.

All that said, DO NOT try to engrave your guns with the tool!

[44 AMP]

Another "field fix" is even cheaper, though its not permanent.

Simply cut and trim a piece of coarse sandpaper (you decide the grit) and glue it on the trigger (degrease the trigger first, to remove all oils). This will last for quite a while, and is simple and quick to replace when needed.

Sure, looks like Bubba work, but who cares as long as it does the job.

[Dfariswheel]

Serrations are machine cut with a milling machine wheel that literally cuts grooves.

Other options are stippling, and checkering.

Stippling is usually done with a center punch and small hammer.
Professionals often use a powered hammer device on a flex shaft, or a Gravemeister used by gun engravers.

The part is locked in a firm set up in a vise, the punch is held slightly off the surface and struck a sharp blow with the hammer to make an impression.
The punch is moved slightly and struck again.
This is done rapidly, keeping the punch moving.
By using sharper or slightly duller punches or punches with different shaped points and striking harder or lighter, you can vary the texture and appearance.
Practicing on scrap metal to get the feel of how it's done, and to decide on the texture you want and on how rough the surface produced.

Checkering was done on Colt revolver triggers before WWII.
This was actually knurled into the metal with a knurling die under high pressure.
Checkering can be done by hand with a narrow checkering file that cuts two lines at a time.
This is difficult to do well and takes a lot of practice.

I'd guess that checkering, stippling and any number of other roughening methods can be done with a laser much faster and easier.
As example rippled lines down the trigger would offer a good hold and look unique.
With a laser the options are endless.

[4V50 Gary]

Poor man's method: stippling. Please don't.

We had a classmate whom we called Herr Stipplemeister.

[44 AMP]

One further point, permanent changes do affect the resale value of the gun.

Non permanent changes can be removed, returning the gun to original configuration. If you stipple, checker, or groove the trigger, you'd need to find a buyer who wants, or will accept that.

IF that matters to you.

[Bill DeShivs]

The stippling done with an electric engraving pencil can be removed if necessary. It's not as deep as the idiot with a punch stippling.

[4V50 Gary]

Bullwinkle Choice for hiding stippling:

Bondo and paint makes it what it ain't or Bondo makes things better!

[Shoots Left]

Lots to chew on here, thanks.

Years ago someone had mentioned to me that some folks had glued small strips of sandpaper on their triggers to keep their fingers from sliding around. I thought that they were pulling my leg. I guess not.

I had not considered an etching pencil because I feel that the pencil probably couldn’t cut as deep as I would like.

Knurling is something that I saw on a trigger years ago. I don’t remember what firearm it was on but I seem to recall that it was a military issue type weapon of some sort. I had thought about knurling but the thing is that knurling doesn’t appear to be a common practice so there’s probably a reason for that.

I like the idea of rippled serrations down the trigger face though. That would be an interesting contrast to straight cuts and might be more complementary to the lines of the P230. If anyone even notices?

I’ve a black trigger from regular 230 that will the be initial crash test dummy and a second spare, stainless one from an SL which will sport the final design. Of course that all depends on if the cost of this effort is reasonable enough to go through with it.

[4V50 Gary]

Knurling? I'd get a checkering file (and put a wood handle on it) instead. Unlike lathes and mills, hand files work in blackouts.

[Bill DeShivs]

You're not going to get a checkering file on the curved face of the P230 trigger. And, a laser will have trouble focusing in a curve that sharp.
The electric pencil, properly used will give a rough enough surface that it can be used as a fingernail file.
If you are afraid to try it, send it to me and I'll do it for the price of the engraver, plus postage.
If you don't like it, send it back and I'll take it off-just pay postage.

[Shoots Left]

Thanks for offer Bill. I will PM you if the electric pencil option is where I end up.

Hoping I can talk to the gunsmith tomorrow.

[Dfariswheel]

You're not going to get a checkering file on the curved face of the P230 trigger.

You can if you can find a two line checkering file.
These ultra-narrow files were made for checkering in tight areas.
I haven't seen these for sale in many years so I don't know if anyone still makes them.

[Jim Watson]

I always liked the looks and feel of those checkered Colt triggers, I didn't know they were really knurled and not cut checkering.

[4V50 Gary]

I'm trying to wrap my head around how to knurl a trigger. I've knurled cylindrical objects but a trigger is crescent shaped. I can see how a rotary head on a mill can be used but besides being crescent, it is arched.

Our normal checkering files would be too large but I've seen images of a narrow one with two rows of teeth like the one Dfariswheel mentioned. I've no clue where to buy one though (but you can make one if you're willing to cut down a normal checkering file).

[Shoots Left]

Originally Posted by 4V50 Gary

I'm trying to wrap my head around how to knurl a trigger. I've knurled cylindrical objects but a trigger is crescent shaped. I can see how a rotary head on a mill can be used but besides being crescent, it is arched.

I worked in a machine shop when I was a kid in high school and was wondering that myself.

Someone could always build a specialty machine to apply the knurling but given how rare such a treatment appears to be it doesn't seem a likely explanation. I was thinking that they embossed the knurl with a press and then heat-treated the trigger to bring it up to service hardness.

My 2₵.

[4V50 Gary]

Shoots Left - I think you're right. Special tool/cutting bit specially contoured for checkering the trigger. Rotary table mounted on a milling machine with the cutting bit in the quill. One pass and done.

I was also thinking about those mill cut panels on the C-96. Geez, to do one alone would be a PITA to set up a rotary table but for factory level production is worth it.

Of course, one could MIM the trigger and that would be much easier.

[Bill DeShivs]

A trigger could be checkered one line at a time with a triangular file, or a jeweler's saw. It probably wouldn't look good as it's hard to get the lines even. You could even use a separating disc in a rotary tool, if you are very good.

[4V50 Gary]

You either have to have good hand file skills or make some sort of a jig/guide.

I bet a skilled engraver with an airgraver could do it.