Stuck case removal (head broke clean off)

Tex S · November 29, 2016, 12:05 AM

I stuck a 5.56 case in a Lee FL sizing die. The head broke clean off.

I should've known better. It was one of those cases Hornady makes for their OAL gauge, so the head is drilled out. I was trying to size it to make it the the same size as all of the other cases I have so my measurements would all be the same.

Never broke one off before, but this one is a doozy.

Any ideas?

Chainsaw. · November 29, 2016, 12:15 AM

Uh....jeez, usually the flage tears and you can knock it out with the decap rod. If it were me I would hollow grind a small round punch and tap it out on the lip of the case from top.

Tex S · November 29, 2016, 12:22 AM

Im thinking the Brownells case extraction tool may work.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod23311.aspx

birdshot · November 29, 2016, 12:55 AM

That has happened to me on several cases that i wildcat. I made a self tapping bolt to screw into the case body, the bolt then gives me something to pull on. I shaped the bolt head to fit into my shell base and use my my press to pull out the case.

burrhead · November 29, 2016, 01:11 AM

Send it to Lee and they'll remove it for a nominal fee.

g.willikers · November 29, 2016, 12:21 PM

How much does a new sizing die cost?
It's probably not much.

T. O'Heir · November 29, 2016, 12:43 PM

Big wood screw and vise grips will do it. The ruptured case extractor is the best thing though.

Dufus · November 29, 2016, 04:42 PM

I'll go with birdshot and the bolt. I DOES work. I know.

You can prolly get one for maybe $0.50.

Tex S · November 29, 2016, 06:30 PM

I tapped the remnants of the case head to 5/16 x 24.

Put a socket and 2 washers over the die then ran a bolt in.

Came out easy!

Lost Sheep · November 29, 2016, 10:26 PM

Metals expand when heated and shrink when cooled. Brass is more affected in this way than steel ( http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/th...pes-d_931.html )

So, if you put the die with the stuck case in your freezer for a couple hours, it may come out a bit easier.

You will still have to resort to one of the other suggestions here, but this might increase your chances of success

Good luck,

Lost Sheep

FrankenMauser · November 30, 2016, 12:56 AM

Disregard...

**44 AMP** · November 30, 2016, 01:03 AM

RCBS makes a Stuck case extractor set. Drill, tap, coarse thread allen head screw and a cap. Buy the set, it will last your lifetime, and if you ever tear the rim off another one, you will have it.

You drill through the head of the case, tap the case, then put the "cap" over it, and use the screw to "pull" the case free.

I've used it, it works.

And, its reusable...

Do remove or back off the decapping stem as much as possible, before drilling..

F. Guffey · November 30, 2016, 09:30 AM

When it comes to pushing and or pulling I got a grip on both. When the case head separates in the die and or chamber I have no problem running a starter tap into the case, what tap? What case? I have taps, lots of taps. I thread the tap into the case and then drive the case out by driving the tap out. I can install the tap onto the end of a slide hammer and then pull the case out.

Remember: When hammering on something there is the 'GLUPE; effect meaning hammering on something can upset the end of it and that could increase the diameter of piece being hammered on. I understand, most are confused but if the driver increases in diameter the hole increases in diameter; and that could render your work scrap. So I am the fan of pulling.

A friend was hammering on the barrel of a black rifle in an effort to remove it from the receiver. I told him I would pull it off and I think I broke his brain,

F. Guffey

F. Guffey · November 30, 2016, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Do remove or back off the decapping stem as much as possible, before drilling

..

If the case head has been pulled off I would suggest the reloader drop the primer punch/sizer ball assemble out the bottom of the case. When removing stuck cases I drill the primer pocket/flash hole out to a diameter that will allow for removing the primer punch/sizer ball assemble out the bottom.

If the reloader raises the sizer ball too high they risk locking the case into the die. There are a few manufacturers that have gotten real cute with shortening the assemble; a shorter assemble reduces the clunk time between the case being removed from the die and the sizing ball being pulled through the neck. For me this has never been a problem because I have a built in defense system that kicks in when someone tries to sell me something I do not need.

Forgot:

or should I say

F. Guffey

**Unclenick** · November 30, 2016, 11:31 AM

When the title said the head came off, I thought that was what he meant. I did that once. .308 Win case stuck in a Redding die. I had been given an RCBS stuck case extractor that I tried. I drilled and tapped the primer pocket and ran the bolt in with its retaining cup against the die mouth and it simply tore the whole head clean off at the pressure ring, like a head separation of ammo reloaded too many times, but with more ragged edges. What was left in the case was too thin to tap again. I finally etched the case out with bore cleaner. That could be done a lot faster today, using something like KG-12 copper remover by sealing the threaded end and pouring that stuff in.

Using cold temperature would help. If I were doing it today, I'd pop over to Graeter's Ice Cream and get some dry ice. I'd set up the case puller and wrap it and the die in some paper and bury it in the dry ice for a couple of hours, then pull it out with insulated gloves and see if that didn't help it come out.

**44 AMP** · November 30, 2016, 11:59 AM

If the entire head of the case is torn off, removing the decapper is then simple.

The best friend you can have when the entire case head is torn off is a ruptured case remover, the kind the military has used for well over a century.

the kind with the split end that grabs the mouth of the case. A .30 handles most things, and a .45 isn't bad to have around if you load .45s. I do not recall ever seeing one for a .22, but some body probably makes one.

If you're handy with machine tools (or have someone that it,) you could have one made. A pro shop would probably cost you more than a new die. a buddy can be cheaper...

(of course, a buddy might cost you more in beer than a new die, but such is life..

)

F. Guffey · November 30, 2016, 04:49 PM

And then there is the slide hammer with a ton of attachments. I purchased a rifle; cheap, no one knew what chamber the rifle had. I used a 3/8" starter tap in the chamber and once it 'fit' I drove the tap out with the case. And I wondered; did I push the case out or did I pull it out?

F. Guffey

In the old days machine shops could not figure out why they could never find guides that fit. Seems they had the bad habit of driving them out instead of pulling them; when I hit something with a big hammer or impact tool I always want thing to get smaller in diameter as opposed to larger in diameter.

F. Guffey · November 30, 2016, 04:57 PM

Quote:

I should've known better. It was one of those cases Hornady makes for their OAL gauge, so the head is drilled out. I was trying to size it to make it the the same size as all of the other cases I have so my measurements would all be the same.

I make those because I want all the bullet hold I can get, I drill the primer pocket/flash hole out to a diameter that will accommodate a dowel or cleaning rod. I am told the store bought cases from Hornady are $7.00 +/- each. I skip the threading and use the case with my tightly held bullet as transfers. I transfer the measurement/dimension of the chamber to the seating die.

F. Guffey

Stats Shooter · November 30, 2016, 09:12 PM

I totally ruined a comp .223 sizing die in the same fashion. I found a case I forget to size, ran it up into the die no lube, pulled the entire rim off the case....i then proceeded to try and punch it out with a hammer after removing pin....that didn't work as the punch went through the brass, then tried to thread in a tap and pull it out with hydraulic press, the brass was too soft...then tried to run a small punch up the sides and bend it, and in the process I ruined the die.

Moral to that story is lube is your friend

November 29, 2016, 12:05 AM	#1
Tex S Senior Member Join Date: November 12, 2008 Location: Fort Worth, TEXAS Posts: 909	Stuck case removal (head broke clean off) I stuck a 5.56 case in a Lee FL sizing die. The head broke clean off. I should've known better. It was one of those cases Hornady makes for their OAL gauge, so the head is drilled out. I was trying to size it to make it the the same size as all of the other cases I have so my measurements would all be the same. Never broke one off before, but this one is a doozy. Any ideas?

November 29, 2016, 01:11 AM	#5
burrhead Senior Member Join Date: July 6, 1999 Location: Chihuahuan desert, Texas Posts: 1,148	Send it to Lee and they'll remove it for a nominal fee. __________________ Join the GOA, SAF and the TSRA I'm offended by people that are easily offended.

November 29, 2016, 12:21 PM	#6
g.willikers Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2008 Posts: 10,442	How much does a new sizing die cost? It's probably not much. __________________ Walt Kelly, alias Pogo, sez: “Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent.”

November 29, 2016, 12:43 PM	#7
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	Big wood screw and vise grips will do it. The ruptured case extractor is the best thing though. __________________ Spelling and grammar count!

November 30, 2016, 12:56 AM	#11
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,424	Disregard... __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

November 29, 2016, 12:15 AM	#2
Chainsaw. Senior Member Join Date: September 12, 2015 Location: Issaquah WA. Its a dry rain. Posts: 1,774	Uh....jeez, usually the flage tears and you can knock it out with the decap rod. If it were me I would hollow grind a small round punch and tap it out on the lip of the case from top.

November 29, 2016, 12:22 AM	#3
Tex S Senior Member Join Date: November 12, 2008 Location: Fort Worth, TEXAS Posts: 909	Im thinking the Brownells case extraction tool may work. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod23311.aspx

November 29, 2016, 04:42 PM	#8
Dufus Senior Member Join Date: December 10, 2014 Posts: 1,965	I'll go with birdshot and the bolt. I DOES work. I know. You can prolly get one for maybe $0.50.

November 29, 2016, 06:30 PM	#9
Tex S Senior Member Join Date: November 12, 2008 Location: Fort Worth, TEXAS Posts: 909	I tapped the remnants of the case head to 5/16 x 24. Put a socket and 2 washers over the die then ran a bolt in. Came out easy!

November 29, 2016, 10:26 PM	#10
Lost Sheep Senior Member Join Date: January 24, 2009 Location: Anchorage Alaska Posts: 3,341	Metals expand when heated and shrink when cooled. Brass is more affected in this way than steel ( http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/th...pes-d_931.html ) So, if you put the die with the stuck case in your freezer for a couple hours, it may come out a bit easier. You will still have to resort to one of the other suggestions here, but this might increase your chances of success Good luck, Lost Sheep

November 30, 2016, 01:03 AM	#12
44 AMP Staff Join Date: March 11, 2006 Location: Upper US Posts: 28,846	RCBS makes a Stuck case extractor set. Drill, tap, coarse thread allen head screw and a cap. Buy the set, it will last your lifetime, and if you ever tear the rim off another one, you will have it. You drill through the head of the case, tap the case, then put the "cap" over it, and use the screw to "pull" the case free. I've used it, it works. And, its reusable... Do remove or back off the decapping stem as much as possible, before drilling.. __________________ All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better.

November 30, 2016, 09:30 AM	#13
F. Guffey Senior Member Join Date: July 18, 2008 Posts: 7,249	When it comes to pushing and or pulling I got a grip on both. When the case head separates in the die and or chamber I have no problem running a starter tap into the case, what tap? What case? I have taps, lots of taps. I thread the tap into the case and then drive the case out by driving the tap out. I can install the tap onto the end of a slide hammer and then pull the case out. Remember: When hammering on something there is the 'GLUPE; effect meaning hammering on something can upset the end of it and that could increase the diameter of piece being hammered on. I understand, most are confused but if the driver increases in diameter the hole increases in diameter; and that could render your work scrap. So I am the fan of pulling. A friend was hammering on the barrel of a black rifle in an effort to remove it from the receiver. I told him I would pull it off and I think I broke his brain, F. Guffey

November 30, 2016, 11:31 AM	#15
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,063	When the title said the head came off, I thought that was what he meant. I did that once. .308 Win case stuck in a Redding die. I had been given an RCBS stuck case extractor that I tried. I drilled and tapped the primer pocket and ran the bolt in with its retaining cup against the die mouth and it simply tore the whole head clean off at the pressure ring, like a head separation of ammo reloaded too many times, but with more ragged edges. What was left in the case was too thin to tap again. I finally etched the case out with bore cleaner. That could be done a lot faster today, using something like KG-12 copper remover by sealing the threaded end and pouring that stuff in. Using cold temperature would help. If I were doing it today, I'd pop over to Graeter's Ice Cream and get some dry ice. I'd set up the case puller and wrap it and the die in some paper and bury it in the dry ice for a couple of hours, then pull it out with insulated gloves and see if that didn't help it come out. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

November 30, 2016, 11:59 AM	#16
44 AMP Staff Join Date: March 11, 2006 Location: Upper US Posts: 28,846	If the entire head of the case is torn off, removing the decapper is then simple. The best friend you can have when the entire case head is torn off is a ruptured case remover, the kind the military has used for well over a century. the kind with the split end that grabs the mouth of the case. A .30 handles most things, and a .45 isn't bad to have around if you load .45s. I do not recall ever seeing one for a .22, but some body probably makes one. If you're handy with machine tools (or have someone that it,) you could have one made. A pro shop would probably cost you more than a new die. a buddy can be cheaper... (of course, a buddy might cost you more in beer than a new die, but such is life..) __________________ All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better.

November 30, 2016, 04:49 PM	#17
F. Guffey Senior Member Join Date: July 18, 2008 Posts: 7,249	And then there is the slide hammer with a ton of attachments. I purchased a rifle; cheap, no one knew what chamber the rifle had. I used a 3/8" starter tap in the chamber and once it 'fit' I drove the tap out with the case. And I wondered; did I push the case out or did I pull it out? F. Guffey In the old days machine shops could not figure out why they could never find guides that fit. Seems they had the bad habit of driving them out instead of pulling them; when I hit something with a big hammer or impact tool I always want thing to get smaller in diameter as opposed to larger in diameter.

November 30, 2016, 09:12 PM	#19
Stats Shooter Senior Member Join Date: August 26, 2016 Location: North Dakota Posts: 1,636	I totally ruined a comp .223 sizing die in the same fashion. I found a case I forget to size, ran it up into the die no lube, pulled the entire rim off the case....i then proceeded to try and punch it out with a hammer after removing pin....that didn't work as the punch went through the brass, then tried to thread in a tap and pull it out with hydraulic press, the brass was too soft...then tried to run a small punch up the sides and bend it, and in the process I ruined the die. Moral to that story is lube is your friend