RIA 1911 tactical

toppermost · January 8, 2014, 03:30 AM

So I thinking about breaking down and buying RIA tactical to throw in my glove compartment (because the price is right). But I would probably also take it hiking every now and then, so my question is:

I want to replace the extended, ambidextrous thumb safety with a short, GI style thumb safety (when hiking I prefer holsters with a thumb snap). I notice that on the RIA tactical the sear pin has a little flange on the right hand side that presumably keeps the right hand thumb safety from falling off (?).

Is this "easily" removed and replaced? I dont think I will buy it if its going to be a P.I.A. or require an actual smith.

(I have replaced hammers and beaver tails before, seemed easy enough).

Jammer Six · January 8, 2014, 03:54 AM

My suggestion is this: if you don't know, don't do it. See a gunsmith.

toppermost · January 9, 2014, 12:22 PM

Thank you for the non-answer.

James K · January 9, 2014, 04:59 PM

I don't have an RIA, but the sear pin flange normally goes on the left side and the pin is held in by the normal safety (same with the hammer pin). The right hand lever (it has no actual safety function) is held on by the right grip, which has to be cut out a bit on the inside to allow the safety to work.

Jim

Hog Red · January 9, 2014, 10:38 PM

maybe someone else will chime in but you can always save the $50 and just get a GI version. I have the tactical version but if i were actually going to carry it i would rather not have the extended beavertail. just me

toppermost · January 9, 2014, 11:06 PM

Quote:

I don't have an RIA... normally... the right hand lever (it has no actual safety function) is held on by the right grip, which has to be cut out a bit on the inside

yeah.... all of that notwithstanding, RIA 1911s are as I described in my first post.

JRH6856 · January 10, 2014, 03:14 AM

What you are describing is a Colt style ambidextrous safety. The left and right thumb levers each have half the pin that holds the grip safety and fit together with a tongue in grove. The right side lever generally has a milled edge at the front that fits into a slot cut into an extended sear pin. This holds the right lever in place without requiring modification of the grip panels.

The safety system can be replaced with a standard GI type 1911 safety and sear pin. However, the sear block on the safety has to be fitted to the individual gun for 100% safe operation. This is not a drop in job.

If you want to try it yourself, there are videos on YouTube demonstrating the process, but it isn't always as easy as it looks. If in doubt, have it done by a qualified smith or armorer.

HiBC · January 10, 2014, 09:00 AM

Jammer 6 actually gave you a pretty good answer,just not much explanation.

JRH5686 is spot on.

RickB · January 10, 2014, 12:04 PM

The factory sear pin can just be ground flush with the frame, if you don't want to replace it. Fitting the safety to the sear, and perhaps the plunger, is not difficult, but you have to know what you're doing.
And, not all safeties are created equal. I installed a Chip McCormick ambi in fifteen minutes, and I've spent a couple of hours on a Cylinder & Slide.

toppermost · January 10, 2014, 12:39 PM

Excellent, relevant answers. Thank you!

Jammer Six · January 10, 2014, 04:23 PM

You're welcome.

Hawg · January 10, 2014, 06:54 PM

Quote:

I don't have an RIA, but the sear pin flange normally goes on the left side and the pin is held in by the normal safety (same with the hammer pin). The right hand lever (it has no actual safety function) is held on by the right grip, which has to be cut out a bit on the inside to allow the safety to work.

Not on a Rock Island. The sear pin is notched on the right side and the flange on the safety rides in the notch. The RI can use grips designed for a non ambi safety. I think you can see how its set up in this pic.

Doc Hoy · January 10, 2014, 10:08 PM

They are so beautiful I want every one I see.

HiBC · January 11, 2014, 02:44 AM

To think about some...
I like the stock Colt safety,too.I just do not prefer to have a canoe paddle blade attached.To those who like the canoe paddle,enjoy!!There is room for preference.

I do think this ambi setup is interesting,and,if a person is in a serious side arm situation,your right hand may be busy or injured.Ambi safety can be good.

So.could be a lot of extra canoe paddle could be belt sanded/filed off to a Colt style config.

You can do that with your eyeball,it won't alter function.Retain the ambi,just make it inobtrusive,yet functional.
If you do cut it down,go slow,keep it cool.Heat can soften the steel

gyvel · January 11, 2014, 12:15 PM

Quote:

The factory sear pin can just be ground flush with the frame,

A replacement pin is maybe a $1.50. Save your original parts in case you want to put it back to original at some future date, perhaps to sell it.

Replacing the thumb safety, however, is a bit of a problem. You must ensure that it completely and tightly locks the sear. Most new replacement thumb safeties have the necessary locking surface purposely oversize so the proper fit can be made. Avoid getting a used thumb safety if at all possible (such as a used G.I. part).

I have always found that fitting a new thumb safety is easiest if you do it with the grip safety off. Then you can see exactly what is going on with the sear-safety-hammer relationship.

toppermost · January 11, 2014, 06:48 PM

hmmm... I kind of like the grinding idea. Get an extra safety for backup/resale down the road.

AKexpat · January 13, 2014, 07:22 PM

I am in the process of doing a 1911 bare frame up pistol (Olympic Arms Matchmaster carbon steel) using SARCO parts (the $90 deal) with a JA Ciener
.22 conversion kit. All parts fit (with a lot of fitting), the trigger pull is about 5#, and I have to get the frame and MSH parked by OLY, about an hour's drive from here. I would prefer a zinc phosphate but OLY does a black mag phosphate.

I am in a quandary insofar as the frame finish. I would prefer a grey park, but that would entail much labor and possibly a glass-bead or a sandblast finish.

Push back, please.

Jim

HiBC · January 14, 2014, 08:32 AM

AK expat:

I suggest you log in,come back to the Smithy,and look up at the toolbar for "new thread"

Come up with a catchy title like "Grey Parkerizing questions?"

Then folks can find you.You are pretty lost as an obscure post in another topic.

Good luck!

January 8, 2014, 03:30 AM	#1
toppermost Senior Member Join Date: November 21, 2010 Location: Arizona Posts: 224	RIA 1911 tactical So I thinking about breaking down and buying RIA tactical to throw in my glove compartment (because the price is right). But I would probably also take it hiking every now and then, so my question is: I want to replace the extended, ambidextrous thumb safety with a short, GI style thumb safety (when hiking I prefer holsters with a thumb snap). I notice that on the RIA tactical the sear pin has a little flange on the right hand side that presumably keeps the right hand thumb safety from falling off (?). Is this "easily" removed and replaced? I dont think I will buy it if its going to be a P.I.A. or require an actual smith. (I have replaced hammers and beaver tails before, seemed easy enough). __________________ k.i.s.s.

January 8, 2014, 03:54 AM	#2
Jammer Six Senior Member Join Date: April 3, 2005 Location: Seattle Posts: 827	My suggestion is this: if you don't know, don't do it. See a gunsmith. __________________ "Huh?" --Jammer Six, 1998

January 9, 2014, 12:22 PM	#3
toppermost Senior Member Join Date: November 21, 2010 Location: Arizona Posts: 224	Thank you for the non-answer. __________________ k.i.s.s.

January 10, 2014, 03:14 AM	#7
JRH6856 Member Join Date: February 27, 2013 Location: DFW area Posts: 94	What you are describing is a Colt style ambidextrous safety. The left and right thumb levers each have half the pin that holds the grip safety and fit together with a tongue in grove. The right side lever generally has a milled edge at the front that fits into a slot cut into an extended sear pin. This holds the right lever in place without requiring modification of the grip panels. The safety system can be replaced with a standard GI type 1911 safety and sear pin. However, the sear block on the safety has to be fitted to the individual gun for 100% safe operation. This is not a drop in job. If you want to try it yourself, there are videos on YouTube demonstrating the process, but it isn't always as easy as it looks. If in doubt, have it done by a qualified smith or armorer. __________________ NRA Life Member All calibers equalize, some calibers equalize more than others.

January 10, 2014, 12:39 PM	#10
toppermost Senior Member Join Date: November 21, 2010 Location: Arizona Posts: 224	Excellent, relevant answers. Thank you! __________________ k.i.s.s.

January 9, 2014, 04:59 PM	#4
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	I don't have an RIA, but the sear pin flange normally goes on the left side and the pin is held in by the normal safety (same with the hammer pin). The right hand lever (it has no actual safety function) is held on by the right grip, which has to be cut out a bit on the inside to allow the safety to work. Jim

January 9, 2014, 10:38 PM	#5
Hog Red Senior Member Join Date: November 9, 2010 Posts: 124	maybe someone else will chime in but you can always save the $50 and just get a GI version. I have the tactical version but if i were actually going to carry it i would rather not have the extended beavertail. just me

January 10, 2014, 09:00 AM	#8
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,283	Jammer 6 actually gave you a pretty good answer,just not much explanation. JRH5686 is spot on.

January 10, 2014, 12:04 PM	#9
RickB Senior Member Join Date: March 1, 2000 Location: Boise, ID Posts: 8,518	The factory sear pin can just be ground flush with the frame, if you don't want to replace it. Fitting the safety to the sear, and perhaps the plunger, is not difficult, but you have to know what you're doing. And, not all safeties are created equal. I installed a Chip McCormick ambi in fifteen minutes, and I've spent a couple of hours on a Cylinder & Slide.

January 10, 2014, 04:23 PM	#11
Jammer Six Senior Member Join Date: April 3, 2005 Location: Seattle Posts: 827	You're welcome. __________________ "Huh?" --Jammer Six, 1998

January 10, 2014, 10:08 PM	#13
Doc Hoy Senior Member Join Date: October 24, 2008 Location: Naples, Fl Posts: 5,440	1911s are like 1851 Colts They are so beautiful I want every one I see. __________________ Seek truth. Relax. Take a breath.

January 11, 2014, 02:44 AM	#14
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,283	To think about some... I like the stock Colt safety,too.I just do not prefer to have a canoe paddle blade attached.To those who like the canoe paddle,enjoy!!There is room for preference. I do think this ambi setup is interesting,and,if a person is in a serious side arm situation,your right hand may be busy or injured.Ambi safety can be good. So.could be a lot of extra canoe paddle could be belt sanded/filed off to a Colt style config. You can do that with your eyeball,it won't alter function.Retain the ambi,just make it inobtrusive,yet functional. If you do cut it down,go slow,keep it cool.Heat can soften the steel

January 11, 2014, 06:48 PM	#16
toppermost Senior Member Join Date: November 21, 2010 Location: Arizona Posts: 224	hmmm... I kind of like the grinding idea. Get an extra safety for backup/resale down the road. __________________ k.i.s.s.

January 13, 2014, 07:22 PM	#17
AKexpat Senior Member Join Date: January 5, 2014 Location: SW WA State Posts: 490	I am in the process of doing a 1911 bare frame up pistol (Olympic Arms Matchmaster carbon steel) using SARCO parts (the $90 deal) with a JA Ciener .22 conversion kit. All parts fit (with a lot of fitting), the trigger pull is about 5#, and I have to get the frame and MSH parked by OLY, about an hour's drive from here. I would prefer a zinc phosphate but OLY does a black mag phosphate. I am in a quandary insofar as the frame finish. I would prefer a grey park, but that would entail much labor and possibly a glass-bead or a sandblast finish. Push back, please. Jim

January 14, 2014, 08:32 AM	#18
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,283	AK expat: I suggest you log in,come back to the Smithy,and look up at the toolbar for "new thread" Come up with a catchy title like "Grey Parkerizing questions?" Then folks can find you.You are pretty lost as an obscure post in another topic. Good luck!