Smith and Wesson serial number search

[brian01tj]

I inherited a SW in .32-20 CTG. The serial number is 44XXX. I need to get a couple replacement parts for it and I need to know what model number it is on the e-gun parts website. The year of manufacture would be nice too. Thanks!

[FlyFish]

I inherited a SW in .32-20 CTG. The serial number is 44XXX. I need to get a couple replacement parts for it and I need to know what model number it is on the e-gun parts website. The year of manufacture would be nice too.

Your gun pre-dates the period (approximately post-WWII) when S&W started assigning model numbers, so it's identified only by name, and in this case a very simple name: .32-20 Hand Ejector. The serial number indicates the gun was made in 1906-1907, so we can be a bit more specific, which could be important if you're trying to find parts: .32-20 Hand Ejector Model of 1905 - 2nd Change. According to SCSW, 11,699 of them were manufactured.

[New2Brass]

Flyfish, My bad (no sleep) I updated my post (4 above) with the models.
Thanks!

[FlyFish]

The M36 (no dash) dates from the 1962 - 1969 period based on the S/N, but must be prior to 1967, when the -1 was introduced. From the range given in SCSW, I'd guess it was in the '65 - '66 neighborhood, but there's really no way of knowing for sure from the information available. Prices are so variable regionally it's tough to say, but I'd guess somewhere in the low $400s.

1973 to '74 would be correct for the M36-1, most likely 1973 but again that's a guess. I'm really out of my element when it comes to things that are important to collectors such as boxes and tools and the like, and I don't want to give you any misinformation, so perhaps someone who's more of a collector can jump in.

I think you've got the correct date on the M10-6 as well, although from the book it's not possible to be more definitive than 1966 to '67. I'd say somewhere in the high $300s on that.

[New2Brass]

Flyfish,
1967 was when he got on the job so it is possible that they had a previous year in stock.
I am guessing the second gun would be worth at least as much as the first?

[FlyFish]

I am guessing the second gun would be worth at least as much as the first?

Yes, I would think so, and I was thinking perhaps another $100 to $150, but as I said it's not something I know a great deal about.

[Bellator]

I recently bought a S&W 686-1 serial#: AWM2XXX. Could someone look up it's birthday for me? Much obliged.

[Radagast]

Bellator: July 1987.

[Radagast]

New2Brass:

If you can document the NYPD link then there may be some specialist collector interest.

http://vivasandson.com/ buys ands sells NYPD guns, browsing through his site may help you with values.

[Bellator]

Thank you Radagast.

[krelldoggy]

I just inherited a beauty of a .38 special revolver with a 5-inch barrel, but I am a little confused as to its age. The serial on the base is S-661XX, which is confusing since my understanding is that all the "S" serial numbers should have 6 digits between 700000 and 999999. I does not appear that one digit has worn off because the same 5-digit number is on the cylinder.

I think this gun is a 1946 or 1947 M&P, possibly with the fabled "long action", but I am not sure.

I took it to a gun store and they told me it was n-frame, but that does not seem to make any sense - according to Wikipedia those were all larger caliber pistols.

Any help and explanation much appreciated!

[MDB]

I have a Mod. 60 with serial # R1763xx. Could someone tell me when it was manufactured? Thanks in advance.

[JoePrivate]

The barrel is engraved -- 38 s&w special CTG
Anyone know what the CTG stand for?

5" in barrel

It looks like the one in email link.

I inherited it a few years ago. My mother always told me that it was a cilvil war pistol that came from my great grandfather. When my family members and I were dividing up the estate per the will , my sister was livid that I received this item. She has only spoken to me a few times since my mothers funeral. Her beef is all about this gun. I laugh about how stupid this quibble is. I have considered giving it to her to reconsile our differences but I worry about it getting into her rebellious teens hands.

I went to a gun shop about 10 years ago and the gun dealer told me that it was a ww1 revolver and that it was only worth about $125 in the condition that it was in. He even offered me $125 on the spot for it. I laughed and walked away.

I doubt if that's the value. I hope someone can give me an idea of what its worth. I'm think $350 - $400.

Thanks,

JP

[carguychris]

I just inherited a beauty of a .38 special revolver with a 5-inch barrel, but I am a little confused as to its age. The serial on the base is S-661XX, which is confusing since my understanding is that all the "S" serial numbers should have 6 digits between 700000 and 999999... I think this gun is a 1946 or 1947 M&P... I took it to a gun store and they told me it was n-frame, but that does not seem to make any sense - according to Wikipedia those were all larger caliber pistols.

Such are the hazards of trusting Wikipedia. Much of the info on Wikipedia about S&Ws is inaccurate or incomplete, particularly about pre-model-numbered Smiths.

I assume your gun has a fixed rear sight because you think it's an M&P. If so, it's a .38/44 Heavy Duty aka pre-Model 20 manufactured ca. early 1947. It's an N frame built to chamber a hot-rodded .38 Special cartridge called the .38/44 or .38 Special Hi-Speed, a predecessor to the .357 Magnum that was supposedly loaded hotter than modern .38Spl+P. Early .38/44s were marked ".38/44" on the barrel, but postwar examples were marked ".38 S&W SPECIAL CTG." just like an M&P.

This gun and the .38/44 cartridge were marketed to law enforcement, but by the end of WWII when N frame production restarted, their thunder had pretty much been stolen by the .357 Magnum. They sold quite poorly, which has made them quite valuable thanks to the active S&W collector community. They're worth about 3X the value of an equivalent M&P aka Model 10, and their value has climbed sharply in the last couple of years.

s/n 319xxx

The barrel is engraved -- 38 s&w special CTG
Anyone know what the CTG stand for?

I inherited it a few years ago. My mother always told me that it was a cilvil war pistol that came from my great grandfather. When my family members and I were dividing up the estate per the will , my sister was livid that I received this item.... I went to a gun shop about 10 years ago and the gun dealer told me that it was a ww1 revolver and that it was only worth about $125 in the condition that it was in... I doubt if that's the value. I hope someone can give me an idea of what its worth. I'm think $350 - $400.

It's only Civil War-era if you count the Russian Civil War or the Mexican Revolution. You've got a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905, 4th Change, made in the mid-1920s. Value is highly dependent on finish for these guns. $125 is low for a complete and functional gun unless the finish is really bad. OTOH the typical 1920s M&P with 50%-70% finish is worth somewhere in the $250-$350 range. Guns with better finish are worth quite a bit more, but are increasingly rare.

The exception is if it's an M&P Target with an adjustable rear sight, which were produced on a special-order basis with some unusual options; some M&P Targets bring 3x-4x standard value.

"CTG" stands for Cartridge. Your gun is chambered in .38 Special.

Post some well-lit pictures and we'll try to be more specific.

[carguychris]

...my sister was livid that I received this item. She has only spoken to me a few times since my mothers funeral. Her beef is all about this gun. I laugh about how stupid this quibble is. I have considered giving it to her to reconsile our differences but I worry about it getting into her rebellious teens hands.

Look for a screw on the front of the grip frame near the butt. This is called the strain screw. It puts tension on the mainspring.

Remove the screw. It will take the spring tension off the mainspring. The action will still cycle and the hammer will still fall, but nowhere near hard enough to actually ignite a live round. It will make the gun into a nice non-firing paperweight.

[JoePrivate]

Added pics -- see post above.

[krelldoggy]

Thanks carguychris, you have it right, I looked it up in the S&W book (much more reliable source) and I'm delighted to have a .38-44 Heavy Duty. I'm glad it is valuable, but I am not selling it!

Sounds like it will take +P ammo no problem. I'll take it out and shoot it later this week.

And maybe I'll fix the info on Wikipedia...

[DnAZ]

Hope I'm posting correctly. New here. Anyways, just picked up a 442-1 (per stamp) on inside when you drop cylinder. Also stamped below it is "234".
Serial # CEA6xxx, black in color. Barrel stamped .38 S&W SPL, I have been trying to research this online but
have not had much luck.
Anyone know the difference between 442-1 & 442-2? lock / no lock? wheres the lock at? is this a +P revolver? What year was it made? Any info would be appreciated.Thanks! paid $300 for it. Seems to be good buy at today's prices....I hope

[carguychris]

Added pics -- see post above.

Looks like an older worn-out refinishing job, based on the nickel hammer and trigger. Non-original finish hurts the value of older guns. I'm going to put it at $150-$200 assuming it's functional and the bore is reasonably good.

just picked up a 442-1 (per stamp) on inside when you drop cylinder... Serial # CEA6xxx, black in color. Barrel stamped .38 S&W SPL, I have been trying to research this online but
have not had much luck. Anyone know the difference between 442-1 & 442-2? lock / no lock? wheres the lock at? is this a +P revolver? What year was it made?

CEA = March 2000. The 442-1 is a no-lock model; the lock hole would be located right above the thumbpiece on the LH side. It is +P rated.

[DnAZ]

I bought this since I couldnt find a M&P 340 in-stock anywhere. Is S&W planning to make more? I would prefer a .357 of course.

[JoePrivate]

Looks like an older worn-out refinishing job, based on the nickel hammer and trigger. Non-original finish hurts the value of older guns. I'm going to put it at $150-$200 assuming it's functional and the bore is reasonably good.

I don't think it's been reblued. It was given to me in a blue Crown Royal bag. It was pretty rusty but had good action. I took it to the gundude after I received it. He cleaned it and appraised it for the $125.

My relatives always told that the firing pin was bad and that was reason it was never shot when I was a teen. Once I found out from the tech that the firing pin was good, I went out and shot it 2 times and then cleaned it really well afterwards.

Just wondering, I shot normal 38 special ammo. A buddy of mine said that I should have shot S&W 38 special ammo made by S&W. Any thoughts?

[Radagast]

Joe Private:

.38 S&W Special is the correct name for .38 Special.

S&W got out of the ammo business years ago, so you won't find any S&W branded .38 special on your gun shop shelves. Heat treating of cylinders on the Military & Police started at serial number 316648, so your gun just scrapes over the line and should be safe with any .38 Special standard pressure ammunition. S&W do not recommend using PlusP ammunition in any gun made before 1957. The sights on the M&P were regulated to hit point of aim with 158 grain .38 special standard velocity ammunition, so that is what I would use.

Go ahead and shoot it.

It might pay to print out this thread and show it to your sister as well - if she feels she has been gyped over a valuable antique she may cool down when she realizes it was a low value working gun.

[MDB]

Anyone know the answer to post 1564?

[carguychris]

I don't think it's been reblued. It was given to me in a blue Crown Royal bag. It was pretty rusty but had good action.

My bad, I mistook totally worn-off bluing for older nickel. Bad monitor.

[Sheol]

Hi, I just picked up a S&W 10-7 .38 S&W Special CTG 4" with a serial nimber 570xx, and an 'E24' stamped above it. Can you please tell me what year it might be from? Thanks.