Smith and Wesson serial number search - Page 187

BrownTrout · November 5, 2011, 04:21 PM

@ Dave, I really appreciate the information. Would anyone be able to estimate a value?

Bluing is very nice, I'd say 95%, grips are very nice too.

But I'm wondering if I overpaid...

Dave Anderson · November 5, 2011, 05:46 PM

Generally I don't do value estimates, I doubt anyone would be prepared to estimate value without at least some good quality photos. I can suggest a couple of pros and cons.

Cons first:

1. Based on your information it appears there is no collector value. Military collectors want unaltered examples, and in any case U.S. collectors naturally tend to be more interested in revolvers made for and used by U.S. armed forces.

2. M&P revolvers prior to s/n V769000 (about December 1944) had an older style spring-powered hammer block which could on occasion stick and not function as intended. A new more positive hammer block was designed at the request of the U.S. Navy after a sailor was killed when a revolver was dropped onto a steel deck. With the older hammer block I'd only carry with an empty chamber under the hammer.

3. Although it's been done thousands of times I personally wouldn't shoot .38 Specials in one of these converted .38 S&Ws.

Pros:

1. It is an S&W and it is not junk. At the time it was made it was equal in quality and finish to S&W commercial production. Even those made in later years under wartime pressure were every bit as good in terms of steel quality, heat treatment, parts fit and operation, just without the fine polish and blue finish.

2. Checkered grips with the diamond pattern around the grip screw would be correct for the time this was made. They may well be the original grips and as such would have collector value in themselves.

3. You say the barrel length is 2 3/8", which means it likely retains the front lug into which the ejector rod latches. Those shortened to 2" lost the lug in the process, meaning the cylinder locked only at the back. Assuming I bought a converted model at all, I'd much rather have one with the front lockup intact.

4. You say the crown and front sight appear to be factory. Again assuming this is a conversion, this suggests the job was well done.

Without photos I doubt anyone would want to hazard an estimate; even with photos an estimate would only be over a fairly broad range. I will say if I saw it for sale at a gunshop, it would be the grips I'd be most interested in.

Also just one further point, M&P revolvers made for Britain were mostly with 5" barrels, though 4" and 6" barrels are known as well. Roy Jinks says the Victory models made in .38 Special for U.S. sales were mostly made with 4" barrels but some made with 2" barrels and the appropriate-length ejector. I've never seen one, even in photos, but I've read there are some examples owned by collectors.

BrownTrout · November 6, 2011, 08:50 PM

Dave - Thanks so much for the information, although I must admit I was hoping it was something rare, rather than a cut piece.

I will get some photos for you. I re-examined the front sight and barrel crown... my goodness they did a good job if it's not factory.

I'll provide photos of the gun (and the GRIPS... might be the best part of this deal). I'll concentrate a few photos on the bbl. end and front sight for your evaluation...

In any case I suppose I can get some repro fake stag grips or something, sell the checkered ones on gunbroker and recoup some cash w/o seriously damaging the collectibility of the gun.

I paid $233 for it... too much?

Edit: the bbl. does NOT retain the lug, (Frownie-face) but there is seriously no evidence that a lug was ground off (pics of this too, to come). Also there is a filled area on the butt where the lanyard ring was... if that means anything.

Double-Edit: since firing .38 Spec. might not be the best idea, can I still shoot .38 S&W in this thing?

BrownTrout · November 7, 2011, 08:03 PM

Attachment 75265

Attachment 75266

Attachment 75267

Dave Anderson · November 7, 2011, 10:28 PM

Agree, the workmanship on the shortened barrel/front sight was well done. I'm sure it was not done at the S&W factory. The factory would never remove the front lug for the ejector rod. Also I've never seen a front sight like that one on an S&W. However there were other good gunsmiths besides those at S&W.

The grips look correct for the era and are of the style used from 1929-1941. If the left grip panel is as nice as the right-side one the they would certainly be of interest to collectors. A very knowledgeable collector friend estimated $50-75. Considering the good condition, a collector who really wanted them might go even higher.

The revolver most likely had a lanyard loop in the butt at one time; the loop has been removed and the hole filled.

Since you paid $233 for it I don't see you losing any money on the deal. I know collectors who would pay $250 just to get the grips, and would do as you suggest; put a set of non-collectible grips on and resell the revolver.

The issue of shooting .38 Specials in these converted revolvers is debatable. Personally I wouldn't but then I have other revolvers. I know shooters and collectors whose opinions I respect who have no problem with shooting standard (i.e. not +P) .38 Specials in these converted revolvers. Certainly in quality of steel, heat treatment and workmanship they are the same as .38 Special K-frames of the same era.

You'll get different opinions also on shooting .38 S&W cartridges in these converted chambers. Some sources say they work fine, others say accuracy is considerably reduced. Since I've never tried it I can't offer an opinion.

*Paladin* · November 8, 2011, 02:18 PM

Ok, first off this is my first post here at the Firing Line. Name is Steve. Active duty military stationed in Idaho. Anyway, on to the question!

I have an old Smith & Wesson round butt with a 4" bbl. It's a nickle plated gun, with the following roll-marked on the top of the barrel:

Smith & Wesson Springfield Mass USA
Patented Oct 8 1901 Dec 17 1901
Feb 8 (or 6?) 1906 Sept 14 1909 Dec 29 191x (last number unreadable)

Rollmarked on the rt side of the bbl is:
38 S&W SPECIAL CTG

Rollmarked on the left side of bbl is:
SMITH & WESSON

Rollmarked on the bottom of the butt and cylinder is the SN#
303xxx

There are 3 screws on the right sideplate, one at the front of the trigger guard, one on the lower frontstrap and one on the cylinder latch. The barrel is pinned.

Can anyone tell me about this gun? I got it for free years ago. It's probably not worth a darn because there is little plating left on the sideplate and several other spots. I'm just looking for an approx date of manufacture and model.

Thanks for your help! -Steve

laytonj1 · November 8, 2011, 07:58 PM

Quote:

SN# 303xxx

.38 Military & Police 4th Change.
SN dates it to around 1920, just before S&W started heat treating the cylinders.
These went on to become the Model 10 when S&W began assigning models numbers in 1957.

Jim

*Paladin* · November 8, 2011, 08:22 PM

Thanks Jim!

Shoktronic · November 8, 2011, 11:22 PM

Hi guys. I went all through this thread hoping to find some info on a pistol I inherited. Its stamped a model 36 with a 2" barrel. It has a round butt and what I am assuming are diamond grips (diamond cross cuts and large diamond shap where screw inserts). The serial number has me puzzled. The inside on the grip on the left has 35xxx. Just above it is what looks to be a 9 that is in a sideways orientation. 35xxx is also located just in front of the cylinder with a R stamped below it. On the bottom of the grip is 237xxx.

Any help would be appreciated. Also if anyone knows what kind of loads I can fire out of this safely would also be apprecated.

Dave Anderson · November 9, 2011, 12:42 AM

The number on the bottom of the grip 237XXX is the serial number. The other numbers are assembly/parts numbers. The model was originally called the Chiefs Special and was the first to use the new "J" frame size. S/N 1 was completed on October 24, 1950. When S&W began using model numbers in 1957 the Chiefs Special was assigned model number 36.

I don't have exact year by year dates for the model 36, but can narrow it down a bit. The first of the Chiefs Specials to get the model 36 stamping was s/n 125000 in 1957. S&W made a change in how the mainspring and hammer connect on Sept. 12, 1962 at approximately s/n 295000.

A reasonable estimate for year of production would be 1960. The grips you describe would be correct for the time frame. These compact J-frame revolvers were tremendously popular when first introduced and remain so to this day.

Assuming it is in sound condition it can safely be used with any standard pressure .38 Special ammunition.

twhidd · November 11, 2011, 07:17 AM

Can someone help me with a date on this one please. Model 10-7 and the serial on the grip is ADP58XX. Thanks.

harleyguy · November 11, 2011, 01:56 PM

I have a model 36 serial # 162xxx and I would like to know what year it was made

laytonj1 · November 11, 2011, 03:14 PM

Quote:

ADP58XX

Late 1983.

Quote:

model 36 serial # 162xxx

Serial numbers ran from 125000 in 1957 to 295000 in 1962.

Jim

coldcanuck · November 11, 2011, 07:32 PM

I just picked up a model 14 that has been modified for PPC. It appears to be a "no dash" 4 screw model with ser# K414XXX. Can anybody tell me what the DOB might be? Thanks!!

laytonj1 · November 11, 2011, 08:56 PM

Quote:

K414XXX

1960.
SN's ran from K386805 to K429894 that year.
4 screw would be correct but it might be a 14-1. The change over to -1 was around 1959/60. It should be marked on the frame just forward of the cylinder, visable only when the cylinder is open.

Jim

coldcanuck · November 12, 2011, 01:34 AM

Thanks Jim, I double checked and the model # stamped there is no dash.

SgtSkiddz · November 12, 2011, 11:46 AM

I just aquired a M629 it is my first S&W. As many others on here are asking, I just thought I'd inquire as to the info on mine.

S# N879XXX

dahermit · November 12, 2011, 12:12 PM

Can anyone give me the DOB of a S&W 36 (no dash), serial number 1J01XXX ?

laytonj1 · November 12, 2011, 12:56 PM

Quote:

S# N879XXX

The N8xxxxx serial numbers ran from 1980 to 1983.

Quote:

serial number 1J01XXX

1982.
Serial numbers ran from J915401 to 1J18600 that year.

Jim

dahermit · November 12, 2011, 07:09 PM

Thanks Jim.

SgtSkiddz · November 13, 2011, 01:17 AM

Thanks Jim!

Zezet · November 13, 2011, 04:55 PM

I have recently have been given a .38 Special S&W Revolver, and wanted to know a little information on it. Details I know about it currently:

Barrel is around 6 inches, says S&W CTG.
I did a little google searching, it seems to be a long colt.
Numbers I could find on the gun what seems to be a serial and model.
Serial: 72128
Model: 641
Handle seems to be a custom handle, round.
6 bullet revolver

Thanks for any information you can help me with on the gun, I think it is a fine gun to keep for my personal use.

laytonj1 · November 13, 2011, 06:27 PM

Zezet,

The chambering is .38 S&W Special (38 Special).

Need to figure out the model and serial number.
Serial number will be located here:
Include any letters.

If made post 1957 then model number here:
This is a 629-1.

Jim

Zezet · November 13, 2011, 06:44 PM

Jim, the handle has been replaced, or has a plastic casing on it, I don't know if it wise to remove.
I see it shows Mod 64-1

Serial is D660035

*Edit* I was able to take the cover off to find out.

laytonj1 · November 13, 2011, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Serial is D660035

The model 64 is a stainless steel version of the model 10 (.38 Military & Police).
The SN dates it to 1974.

Jim

November 5, 2011, 04:21 PM	#4651
BrownTrout Member Join Date: December 5, 2009 Location: Iowa Posts: 31	Thanks Dave @ Dave, I really appreciate the information. Would anyone be able to estimate a value? Bluing is very nice, I'd say 95%, grips are very nice too. But I'm wondering if I overpaid...

November 7, 2011, 08:03 PM	#4654
BrownTrout Member Join Date: December 5, 2009 Location: Iowa Posts: 31	Pics for you Dave! Attachment 75265 Attachment 75266 Attachment 75267 Last edited by Glenn E. Meyer; November 30, 2013 at 11:47 AM.

November 7, 2011, 10:28 PM	#4655
Dave Anderson Senior Member Join Date: March 4, 2011 Posts: 313	Brown Trout: pictures Agree, the workmanship on the shortened barrel/front sight was well done. I'm sure it was not done at the S&W factory. The factory would never remove the front lug for the ejector rod. Also I've never seen a front sight like that one on an S&W. However there were other good gunsmiths besides those at S&W. The grips look correct for the era and are of the style used from 1929-1941. If the left grip panel is as nice as the right-side one the they would certainly be of interest to collectors. A very knowledgeable collector friend estimated $50-75. Considering the good condition, a collector who really wanted them might go even higher. The revolver most likely had a lanyard loop in the butt at one time; the loop has been removed and the hole filled. Since you paid $233 for it I don't see you losing any money on the deal. I know collectors who would pay $250 just to get the grips, and would do as you suggest; put a set of non-collectible grips on and resell the revolver. The issue of shooting .38 Specials in these converted revolvers is debatable. Personally I wouldn't but then I have other revolvers. I know shooters and collectors whose opinions I respect who have no problem with shooting standard (i.e. not +P) .38 Specials in these converted revolvers. Certainly in quality of steel, heat treatment and workmanship they are the same as .38 Special K-frames of the same era. You'll get different opinions also on shooting .38 S&W cartridges in these converted chambers. Some sources say they work fine, others say accuracy is considerably reduced. Since I've never tried it I can't offer an opinion.

November 8, 2011, 02:18 PM	#4656
Paladin Junior Member Join Date: November 8, 2011 Location: Idaho Posts: 2	Ok, first off this is my first post here at the Firing Line. Name is Steve. Active duty military stationed in Idaho. Anyway, on to the question! I have an old Smith & Wesson round butt with a 4" bbl. It's a nickle plated gun, with the following roll-marked on the top of the barrel: Smith & Wesson Springfield Mass USA Patented Oct 8 1901 Dec 17 1901 Feb 8 (or 6?) 1906 Sept 14 1909 Dec 29 191x (last number unreadable) Rollmarked on the rt side of the bbl is: 38 S&W SPECIAL CTG Rollmarked on the left side of bbl is: SMITH & WESSON Rollmarked on the bottom of the butt and cylinder is the SN# 303xxx There are 3 screws on the right sideplate, one at the front of the trigger guard, one on the lower frontstrap and one on the cylinder latch. The barrel is pinned. Can anyone tell me about this gun? I got it for free years ago. It's probably not worth a darn because there is little plating left on the sideplate and several other spots. I'm just looking for an approx date of manufacture and model. Thanks for your help! -Steve Last edited by Paladin; November 8, 2011 at 03:48 PM.

November 8, 2011, 11:22 PM	#4659
Shoktronic Junior Member Join Date: November 8, 2011 Posts: 1	Inherited S&W Model 36 Hi guys. I went all through this thread hoping to find some info on a pistol I inherited. Its stamped a model 36 with a 2" barrel. It has a round butt and what I am assuming are diamond grips (diamond cross cuts and large diamond shap where screw inserts). The serial number has me puzzled. The inside on the grip on the left has 35xxx. Just above it is what looks to be a 9 that is in a sideways orientation. 35xxx is also located just in front of the cylinder with a R stamped below it. On the bottom of the grip is 237xxx. Any help would be appreciated. Also if anyone knows what kind of loads I can fire out of this safely would also be apprecated.

November 5, 2011, 05:46 PM	#4652
Dave Anderson Senior Member Join Date: March 4, 2011 Posts: 313	Generally I don't do value estimates, I doubt anyone would be prepared to estimate value without at least some good quality photos. I can suggest a couple of pros and cons. Cons first: 1. Based on your information it appears there is no collector value. Military collectors want unaltered examples, and in any case U.S. collectors naturally tend to be more interested in revolvers made for and used by U.S. armed forces. 2. M&P revolvers prior to s/n V769000 (about December 1944) had an older style spring-powered hammer block which could on occasion stick and not function as intended. A new more positive hammer block was designed at the request of the U.S. Navy after a sailor was killed when a revolver was dropped onto a steel deck. With the older hammer block I'd only carry with an empty chamber under the hammer. 3. Although it's been done thousands of times I personally wouldn't shoot .38 Specials in one of these converted .38 S&Ws. Pros: 1. It is an S&W and it is not junk. At the time it was made it was equal in quality and finish to S&W commercial production. Even those made in later years under wartime pressure were every bit as good in terms of steel quality, heat treatment, parts fit and operation, just without the fine polish and blue finish. 2. Checkered grips with the diamond pattern around the grip screw would be correct for the time this was made. They may well be the original grips and as such would have collector value in themselves. 3. You say the barrel length is 2 3/8", which means it likely retains the front lug into which the ejector rod latches. Those shortened to 2" lost the lug in the process, meaning the cylinder locked only at the back. Assuming I bought a converted model at all, I'd much rather have one with the front lockup intact. 4. You say the crown and front sight appear to be factory. Again assuming this is a conversion, this suggests the job was well done. Without photos I doubt anyone would want to hazard an estimate; even with photos an estimate would only be over a fairly broad range. I will say if I saw it for sale at a gunshop, it would be the grips I'd be most interested in. Also just one further point, M&P revolvers made for Britain were mostly with 5" barrels, though 4" and 6" barrels are known as well. Roy Jinks says the Victory models made in .38 Special for U.S. sales were mostly made with 4" barrels but some made with 2" barrels and the appropriate-length ejector. I've never seen one, even in photos, but I've read there are some examples owned by collectors.

November 6, 2011, 08:50 PM	#4653
BrownTrout Member Join Date: December 5, 2009 Location: Iowa Posts: 31	Dave - Thanks so much for the information, although I must admit I was hoping it was something rare, rather than a cut piece. I will get some photos for you. I re-examined the front sight and barrel crown... my goodness they did a good job if it's not factory. I'll provide photos of the gun (and the GRIPS... might be the best part of this deal). I'll concentrate a few photos on the bbl. end and front sight for your evaluation... In any case I suppose I can get some repro fake stag grips or something, sell the checkered ones on gunbroker and recoup some cash w/o seriously damaging the collectibility of the gun. I paid $233 for it... too much? Edit: the bbl. does NOT retain the lug, (Frownie-face) but there is seriously no evidence that a lug was ground off (pics of this too, to come). Also there is a filled area on the butt where the lanyard ring was... if that means anything. Double-Edit: since firing .38 Spec. might not be the best idea, can I still shoot .38 S&W in this thing?

November 8, 2011, 08:22 PM	#4658
Paladin Junior Member Join Date: November 8, 2011 Location: Idaho Posts: 2	Thanks Jim!

November 9, 2011, 12:42 AM	#4660
Dave Anderson Senior Member Join Date: March 4, 2011 Posts: 313	Shoktronic re Model 36 The number on the bottom of the grip 237XXX is the serial number. The other numbers are assembly/parts numbers. The model was originally called the Chiefs Special and was the first to use the new "J" frame size. S/N 1 was completed on October 24, 1950. When S&W began using model numbers in 1957 the Chiefs Special was assigned model number 36. I don't have exact year by year dates for the model 36, but can narrow it down a bit. The first of the Chiefs Specials to get the model 36 stamping was s/n 125000 in 1957. S&W made a change in how the mainspring and hammer connect on Sept. 12, 1962 at approximately s/n 295000. A reasonable estimate for year of production would be 1960. The grips you describe would be correct for the time frame. These compact J-frame revolvers were tremendously popular when first introduced and remain so to this day. Assuming it is in sound condition it can safely be used with any standard pressure .38 Special ammunition.

November 11, 2011, 07:17 AM	#4661
twhidd Senior Member Join Date: March 21, 2005 Location: Athens, Georgia Posts: 823	Model 10-7 Can someone help me with a date on this one please. Model 10-7 and the serial on the grip is ADP58XX. Thanks. __________________ Todd NRA Life Member

November 11, 2011, 01:56 PM	#4662
harleyguy Junior Member Join Date: November 11, 2011 Posts: 1	model 36 I have a model 36 serial # 162xxx and I would like to know what year it was made

November 11, 2011, 07:32 PM	#4664
coldcanuck Junior Member Join Date: November 28, 2010 Location: Surrey, British Columbia Posts: 6	model 14 ppc I just picked up a model 14 that has been modified for PPC. It appears to be a "no dash" 4 screw model with ser# K414XXX. Can anybody tell me what the DOB might be? Thanks!!

November 12, 2011, 01:34 AM	#4666
coldcanuck Junior Member Join Date: November 28, 2010 Location: Surrey, British Columbia Posts: 6	4 screw 14 Thanks Jim, I double checked and the model # stamped there is no dash.

November 12, 2011, 11:46 AM	#4667
SgtSkiddz Junior Member Join Date: November 12, 2011 Posts: 2	I just aquired a M629 it is my first S&W. As many others on here are asking, I just thought I'd inquire as to the info on mine. S# N879XXX

November 12, 2011, 12:12 PM	#4668
dahermit Senior Member Join Date: October 28, 2006 Location: South Central Michigan...near Posts: 6,501	M36 serial, DOB? Can anyone give me the DOB of a S&W 36 (no dash), serial number 1J01XXX ?

November 12, 2011, 07:09 PM	#4670
dahermit Senior Member Join Date: October 28, 2006 Location: South Central Michigan...near Posts: 6,501	Thanks Jim.

November 13, 2011, 01:17 AM	#4671
SgtSkiddz Junior Member Join Date: November 12, 2011 Posts: 2	Thanks Jim!

November 13, 2011, 04:55 PM	#4672
Zezet Junior Member Join Date: November 13, 2011 Posts: 4	.38 special I have recently have been given a .38 Special S&W Revolver, and wanted to know a little information on it. Details I know about it currently: Barrel is around 6 inches, says S&W CTG. I did a little google searching, it seems to be a long colt. Numbers I could find on the gun what seems to be a serial and model. Serial: 72128 Model: 641 Handle seems to be a custom handle, round. 6 bullet revolver Thanks for any information you can help me with on the gun, I think it is a fine gun to keep for my personal use.

November 13, 2011, 06:27 PM	#4673
laytonj1 Senior Member Join Date: June 1, 2005 Posts: 4,443	Zezet, The chambering is .38 S&W Special (38 Special). Need to figure out the model and serial number. Serial number will be located here: Include any letters. If made post 1957 then model number here: This is a 629-1. Jim

November 13, 2011, 06:44 PM	#4674
Zezet Junior Member Join Date: November 13, 2011 Posts: 4	Jim, the handle has been replaced, or has a plastic casing on it, I don't know if it wise to remove. I see it shows Mod 64-1 Serial is D660035 Edit I was able to take the cover off to find out.

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