Help GP100 please

[redlightrich]

HEllo all, I have a GP100 in 22lr, which is a 5.5" barrel. I like the gun a lot except for barrel length and balance due to that.

I am in NJ, so sell/buy is a PIA and I wont go that route. Also, I have already slicked this trigger nicely, so she's a keeper.

I called Ruger, and the less than helpful fellow who answered was useless.

conversation went like this

"Hi, I see you offer re-barrel service on your site. I have a Gp100 in 22lr, can you swap the barrel for me"

"no" then dead silence

"ok, can you sell me a barrel?"

"no" dead silence

"ok, can you tell me barrel specs?"

"no" dead silence again

"thanks"
"no problem" his very appropriate response, as he did nothing but say no 3x.



I hang up then ponder if I should call back and hope to reach a person with a brain, and the desire to help, but did not.

This person is NOT representative of the usual Ruger customer service. I have found them to be very helpful and pleasant in the past. This person should not have a public facing role anywhere.

So my choices are either re-barrel with a 38 or 357 barrel that I re sleeve to 22 caliber, which would look nice if done right and barrels in that caliber are available. I can't determine the thread size though and don't know if the 22 and 38/357 barrel have the same thread size.

Option 2, cut the barrel by 1.25-1.50 inches or so, re-crown and either tap for a sight mount screw or have a dovetail cut in. There is enough metal for the dovetail.
Option 2 sounds most reasonable, and I could probably do most work myself, but I can't do the dovetail.

Any helpful ideas here? If I choose option 2 and decide to use a smith, does anyone have a recommendation as to who would do this nicely?

I know this makes little sense to folks that live in free states. Please count your blessings.

Having a shorter barrel would cause me to use this gun a lot more, as opposed to sitting in the safe way in the back.

Thank you

Rich

[UncleEd]

I looked on the Ruger Home Page and two GP 100s in .22 are
offered, yours and a Gallery of Guns exclusive with a 4.20
barrel.

I suspect that the 5.5-inch barrel is it, especially so as to
not break faith with Gallery's special order.

I bet you shoot the gun you have regularly and you'll
get used to its "imbalance."

[2damnold4this]

I think option 2 would be your best bet but I don't have any recommendation for a smith.

[reddog81]

Option 3 - Practice dry firing it and get used to the 5.5" barrel. I find longer barrels are better for general plinking, target shooting, or just about anything other than carrying.

If you need to cut the barrel down any halfway decent gunsmith should be able cut the dovetail. Shipping the revolver back and forth is going to cost more than the dovetail cut. Any gun shop should be able to recommend a local gunsmith.

[MrBorland]

Originally Posted by redlightrich

"Hi, I see you offer re-barrel service on your site. I have a Gp100 in 22lr, can you swap the barrel for me"

"no" then dead silence

"ok, can you sell me a barrel?"

I'd first ask why they can't swap the barrel.

Originally Posted by redlightrich

This person is NOT representative of the usual Ruger customer service.

Then call again and speak to another rep. And ask why they can't swap the barrel if you get the same response.

Originally Posted by reddog81

If you need to cut the barrel down any halfway decent gunsmith should be able cut the dovetail. Shipping the revolver back and forth is going to cost more than the dovetail cut. Any gun shop should be able to recommend a local gunsmith.

Yeah, you can have a 'smith cut the barrel and install a front sight, but in the event it matters to you, the barrel marking (the "GP100") will be wildly off-center, a clear indicator the barrel was chopped (and not particularly pleasing aesthetically, IMO).

[FrankenMauser]

It will still be heavy with a short barrel.
I don't believe you'll be happy, even with the barrel chopped to 1.5".



As for Ruger:

1. Ruger's "rebarrel" service listings are simply entries in their published service fee list for repair costs. It is not a list of elective/optional services, or "gunsmithing" services. Ruger only does repair work.

2. Ruger doesn't sell parts.

3. Ruger only rebarrels recent production models with like parts (or current 'updated' versions). They won't stab a 4.2" barrel into a revolver that left the factory with a 5.5" barrel.

[DPris]

That's it.
And it's been that way for a long time.
The guy on the phone answered your questions in general, and you can't expect "specs" from a Ruger CS person.
They don't even have access themselves.
Denis

[arquebus357]

A .22 lr gp100 ????

[redlightrich]

Hello all, and thank you for your thoughtful responses. I do understand that Ruger doesn't want to create a frankengun for me. I also realize they wont jeopardize their exclusive by making my 5.5 into a 4.2.

I have measured this barrel a lot. I can retain the RUGER GP100 logo, and the barrel will end a bit beyond that. If I cut very carefully, I can even keep the little "R" after GP100 (registered logo mark)
I can cut 1.3515 without too much fuss. I would probably cut 1.300 and leave the rest for clean up. I would cut in a recessed target crown, and blend.

I am seriously considering this cut job. It seems like a fairly straight forward move. I have measured all critical points, and I would need a taller front sight, by approx .125, which I don't love.

If after I finish, I hate it, I guess then I can return it to Ruger for a standard barrel replacement. Maybe then the CS person will remember the word yes.

If I could get a spec on the barrel thread, I could possibly find a replacement, from a larger caliber, and modify it, to be a 22, by using a barrel liner. I have searched but can't find anyone who has disassembled the GP100 in 22 and measured the threads. I am sure someone has this info. I do not want to remove the barrel simply to measure. Any thoughts on where I can find this spec?

One more question to you all, the current barrel is canted approx 5 degrees in relation to the frame. When sights are properly aligned, you cant see it. You need to sight down the barrel from way atop the sight to notice it. Not bad compared to some 617's I have seen.

If I cut, and am cutting in a new 60 degree dovetail, would you use the frame as zero, and cut the barrel at the angle? Or use the top of the barrel and replicate the angle that is already there?

Thank you for your input. It does help.

Rich

[arquebus357]

If the barrel is currently canted even a little, I would not duplicate that angle. I would use the frame w/ rear sight as my reference. As far as the lettering on the barrel, I would sand all of it off.

I'm seriously thinking of getting a police turn-in S&W model 64 4" and change it into a 3".

I sanded the billboard from this Ruger Vaquero.

[T. O'Heir]

Ruger doesn't sell parts they insist be installed by them or an authorized repair shop. Barrels are such parts.
If the barrel is currently canted even a little, it becomes a warrantee issue. I believe doing/having anything done while the thing is under warrantee voids said warrantee.
You won't be sanding anything off a steel barrel except the finish.
Go try a 4.2" GP before you do anything else. You'll find the balance is still muzzle heavy. The .22 barrel doesn't have the under barrel lug, but the weight is close. The .357 weighs40 ounces. The .22 42 ounces.
And there's more to moving the front sight than just cutting a dovetail(at over $100 per hour machining time) anyway. The .22's front sight sits higher than the barrel itself so you'd need a different rear sight too.

[James K]

I am pretty sure that Ruger knows more about their guns than I do, but I don't see how you (or Ruger) can convert a center-fire revolver to rim-fire without some very tricky work with the frame-mounted firing pin. AFAIK, Ruger won't do that conversion; I suppose that some custom shops might if you wave enough money at them but buying a RF version would be a lot cheaper.

Jim

[1stmar]

Call ruger back and ask again about a rebarrel. To my knowledge ruger doesnt have a custom shop so i suspect they will only rebarrel w a standard length barrel they sell.

Call hamilton bowen or i have a local gs who could cut it and install a new sight


You can try this place https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-man...r/gp100?page=2

Could call this place https://www.geminicustoms.com/ruger-revolvers/

[HighValleyRanch]

He already has a .22 and wanted to use a center fire BARREL with a .22 liner from what I gather.

[BigJimP]

If the rebarreling - and sleeving - will even work... ??? It is going to cost way more than this gun is worth...

Sure, selling it ...or trading it in, is a hassle in some states...but if you really hate it, its the only thing that makes sense to me. But, as a thought....

Reducing this barrel from 5.5" ....to 4" or 4.25", as you said you want to do, ...in my opinion isn't going to alter the balance enough to make a huge difference. But as a serious suggestion ....find your balance point, mark it on a piece of masking tape on the gun ....and look at adding some weight inside each grip panel ( maybe using " golf club lead tape"...say 4 oz in each side...and see how much you can move that balance point back.... until you get it where you like it. You might like the extra weight in the gun too...??

[Model12Win]

Have the bbl trimmed and a new front sight inserted. Easy.

[DPris]

Sell the gun.
Denis

[4V50 Gary]

My classmate (Lew Throne of ThroneArms) can do it. He was a machinist for 17 years prior to going to TSJC.

BTW, cutting dovetails are not hard. First you need a regular end mill and second a dovetail cutter bit. You use the regular end mill to cut to the width and depth for the dovetail. Then very slowly cut with the dovetail cutter. Lotsa oil.

[HighValleyRanch]

There's a video of Larry Potterfield (Midway) cutting a sight dovetail by hand just using files.
I think that the dovetail file had one smooth side so it would not cut the square cut deeper.

...Here, I found it!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W60yBwzipKA

[redlightrich]

Thank you everyone.. I sure have a decision to make, but was given some good ideas.

I put it away again for a bit, to see if I change my mind. I do think that I should handle to 4.2" first to see if I like it Thank you for the thought. If I do like the way that feels, then maybe the cut is in order.

Thanks again

Rich

[saleen322]

This person is NOT representative of the usual Ruger customer service. I have found them to be very helpful and pleasant in the past. This person should not have a public facing role anywhere.

This was similar to my most recent dealing with Ruger. We have a GP100 in 327 magnum and it started having misfires on a regular basis. I thought most likely a weak spring as at least some 327 factory rounds use rifle primers due to the pressure so they need a solid hit to fire. I contact Ruger, explain the issue, and tell them I would like to try a new spring before sending the gun back. Their response, "No" even when I offered to buy the spring. They issued a return number for the revolver and said, "If you have to pay more than $30 to send it back, contact us and we will sell you a return label for $30." I instead bought a spring from Wolff and the problem was solved. The Ruger folks were not rude but not that customer focused either.

Now just about the same time, we had misfire issues with a 327 Henry rifle. I contact Henry, explain the problem, and they think it may be the firing pin assembly or could be something more involved. Henry gave me the option to install a new firing pin or send it back. I opted for the firing pin and they send the parts free. Well it was better but not 100% so Henry sends a return label free and I get a repaired rifle back in 6 days without a nickel out of pocket. When looking for a new firearm; if Henry makes it, that is who gets my business.