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Old April 9, 2019, 08:34 AM   #1
ndking1126
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How do you level your scope?

I'm curious what part of the scope you use to level it. I'm not necessarily asking about the whole process you go through.. just what part of the scope do you place your level on? The top of the turret with the cap on? The top of the turret with cap off? How do you know that part is level with the reticle?

The reason I ask is recently I spent a lot of time trying to get a Vortex PST Gen2 5-25 leveled. Long story short, the problem was the fact that the sling stud I was attaching my bipod to was leaning to the side. When I would level everything with the rifle sitting on a led sled, it was good. Then I'd put it on a bipod at the range and the reticle was slanted.

In the process, however, I checked every possible reason I could think of on why the crosshairs weren't staying level and determined on my scope the top of the turret was not level. It was pretty close, but not exact. My basic understanding is that they are all supposed to be level so we could use that as a way to level our reticles, but maybe not?
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Old April 9, 2019, 09:58 AM   #2
tangolima
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None of the exterior part of a scope I would use for leveling reference. In stead, I use the reticle. It should align with a plumb line hung at a convenient distance when the scope is leveled.

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Old April 9, 2019, 10:44 AM   #3
std7mag
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I use a level.
But then true it at the range using Brian Litz process.
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Old April 9, 2019, 10:47 AM   #4
Sharkbite
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Quote:
In stead, I use the reticle. It should align with a plumb line hung
THIS. I dont trust any part of the scope body to be true to the reticle. Since we want the reticle vertical to GRAVITY. I true the reticle to gravity with a plumb bob
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Old April 9, 2019, 11:00 AM   #5
Pahoo
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I level the reticles to plumb

Quote:
None of the exterior part of a scope I would use for leveling reference. In stead, I use the reticle. It should align with a plumb line hung at a convenient distance when the scope is leveled.
This is basically most of my process. I level the reticles to the rifle and do use a plumb line. For starters, if I can look down the bore, I eye-ball it. You world be surprised how well this works. Then I proceed with the leveling of the reticles to the rifle which is also level. I use two small levels. …..

Be Safe !!!
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Old April 9, 2019, 01:47 PM   #6
ndking1126
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Quote:
plumb line
Thanks for the input everyone. The plumb line was also something I used with this scope. I guess I'll start there next time instead of finishing there! Haha.
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Old April 9, 2019, 02:08 PM   #7
cw308
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There are scope levels you can buy , Wheeler makes a level that you set on the top scope cap and one that also rides in the bolt race way by the ejection port , when both bubbles center your level , I find using a plumber line just as good . Hopefully you don't have a canted reticle , I have a scope on my rifle with a slightly canted reticle but I only shoot one distance 200 yards so it doesn't matter . Then there's the problem on how you hold the rifle , your scope could be set up perfectly straight but your comfortable hold could be off making your cross hairs look off . Also important is your base and ring setup ., don't want to run out of adjustment . Years back I remember just slapping on a scope and playing with the adjustments . I guess ignorance is bliss , things were much simpler then .

Chris

Last edited by cw308; April 13, 2019 at 01:15 PM.
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Old April 9, 2019, 02:48 PM   #8
jmr40
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I use the trial and error method by eyeballing it. Even using a plumb line isn't accurate if the rifle isn't resting level and that is the hardest part. I've been doing this long enough that I'm usually right on. But sometimes after I get to the range and start shooting beyond 100 yards I'll see that I'm off a bit and I may have to fine tune it some.
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Old April 9, 2019, 02:54 PM   #9
stinkeypete
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I just eyeball it.

You can detect less than 1 degree off of perpendicular with your eyeball.

You might be able to find a flat spot on the bottom of the stock, but the receiver is bedded to the stock (possible rotation) and the barrel mounts to the receiver (another bit of mechanical error) and the scope rail mount to the receiver (errors), rings (errors) and the top of the scope adjustment housing (errors) in relation to the reticle (errors).... and people want to measure using a quarter inch bubble in an inch long tube of yellow water???

People that sell yellow water made this idea up.

Make it look right and it will be right. It’s not polymer science or baking. And as said above, the proof is in the shooting, not a bubble level.
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Old April 9, 2019, 02:55 PM   #10
Nathan
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I level to the top of the turret with the cap screwed down to touch the machined surface of the scope body.

That said, I can see the plumb line being most accurate....except, how do you align the rifle level?
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Old April 9, 2019, 03:19 PM   #11
Don Fischer
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If the rifle is canted the scope won't ever be level!
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Old April 9, 2019, 03:29 PM   #12
cw308
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Yea The good old days when hitting a beer can a 100 yards , and for sure it was enpty . Life was good back then . Didn't know what headspace , datum , ogive , twist rate and barrel harmonics . Just pull , yes pull the trigger and see if you hit what you were aiming at . Now it's a science . Wish I paid more attention in class . If it wasn't for Baseball I'd still be in High School .

Last edited by cw308; April 9, 2019 at 03:39 PM.
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Old April 9, 2019, 03:41 PM   #13
LineStretcher
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The easiest way is to use the Wheeler scope level kit. It has two spirit levels one of which is used to level the rifle using the rifles square reference point and the other that clamps onto the barrel and is adjusted to match the square reference point. The result is that once you have the barrel level attached you have a constant reference point.

The tough part of all this can be finding the rifles action square reference point. Not all have one that is usable so in those cases you have to trust that the front scope mount or base is going to be square to the action when installed and tight.

Once you have your bases/rings installed square and level then it's time to level the scope to the same level point. On the Vortex PST the correct method is to remove the turret cap and place the level on the turret. You can then reference the barrel level and match the two up.
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Old April 9, 2019, 04:55 PM   #14
cw308
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LineStretcher
Is correct , my mistake it's not Wilson but Wheeler , Sorry.
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Old April 10, 2019, 01:49 PM   #15
RC20
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Eyeball it. Good enough.
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Old April 10, 2019, 04:38 PM   #16
gwpercle
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I mount the scope base on the rifle . Using the holes already drilled and tapped.
Place the scope in the bottom rings.
Attach top rings and screw together . Not real tight
Adjust scope back and forth for proper eye relief .
Adjust for vertical by sighting onto a buildings corner across the street , twist the scope left and right to get the vertical cross hair to line up with the buildings corner while holding the rifle in your regular off hand or bench shooting position .
The building corner will be vertical and the building's fascia will be horizontal, when they match up...you got it !
No level involved .
Just make sure the people across the street don't see you pointing a rifle at their building... lots safer to use the barn on your property if you can... Living in the country I tend to forget how city folks get all upset when they see folks with a rifle.... Maybe this ain't the best way for city dwellers to scope in a rifle !!!!!
Gary

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Old April 10, 2019, 05:02 PM   #17
Joe-ker
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^^^^^what if building across the street was built by cross eyed Norwegians
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Old April 10, 2019, 10:59 PM   #18
tangolima
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Country folks will get pretty crossed too when someone is pointing a rifle at them. It is all understandable. So be sensible when doing all this.

-TL

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Old April 11, 2019, 01:48 AM   #19
Pathfinder45
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I have never had a problem just using my eyes and holding the rifle correctly. To me it seems easy enough, but I've seen other people's scopes way off on their rifles. If you think long enough about it, the idea of mounting the scope so that the reticle is actually positioned in an X orientation rather than the conventional + starts to have a lot of merit......Think about it....

Last edited by Pathfinder45; April 11, 2019 at 01:49 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old April 11, 2019, 05:29 AM   #20
cptjack
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I use me eye lookt hrough and when the north south cross hair is centered in middle of bolt ,done
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Old April 11, 2019, 09:17 AM   #21
aarondhgraham
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I cheat,,,

I cheat,,,
I take it to The Evil Pawn Shop.

He'll level the scope and bore-sight it,,,
For a measly 10-dollar bill.

Aarond

.
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Old April 11, 2019, 10:37 AM   #22
Pahoo
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To each, his own..

Quote:
That said, I can see the plumb line being most accurate....except, how do you align the rifle level?
Using a plumb-line has worked for thousands of years and as well as in today's construction projects. I once checked one of my shop walls and found it, slightly out of plumb. Sure don't need to use my neighbor's house. …..

I level the vertical reticle to the leveled rifle barrel and not to the caps, turrets or any other part of the scope. Each rifle calls for it's own set-up but basically the same process. …..

Quote:
how do you align the rifle level?
A properly installed base, is an extension of the barrel. If the barrel has flats, I use those, if not, I use the flats of the base where I mount my level. I only need or use "one" small level. ….

Be Safe !!!
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Old April 11, 2019, 10:47 PM   #23
reynolds357
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Self leveling laser projected on shop wall. Level on action.
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Old April 12, 2019, 06:35 AM   #24
cptjack
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how do you know if the level is level?
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Old April 12, 2019, 10:40 AM   #25
hdbiker
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I put a carpenters level about 25 yards away set at level, stand back, shoulder the rifle as if I'm going to shoot. Then I have a friend move the scope forward and back until I get proper ( FOR ME ) eye relief and the cross hairs are parallel with carpenters level. Clamp the scope down and recheck. Works for me.I always lap my scopes.
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