My Experience Gunsmithing the CZ75 - Trigger Job

Nathan · September 13, 2016, 06:17 PM

I just want to share my experience and results improving the trigger on my CZ 75.

THE BASE GUN: My base gun was a CZ75 B SA 9mm. It had 300-500 rounds through it. It had an ok 5.5 lb trigger, if I remember right. It had a bit too much creep for a range gun, but was good enough to be shot quite accurately.

THE PLAN: I did a lot of research, but CZ detail info online is a bit spotty. If I buy only the CZ Custom hammer, what will I get? If I polish internals, what will I get? Sear Jig? How to cut the sear angle perfect? What is safe? Dimensions? These are what I couldn't figure out to my satisfaction.

So, I had to make a plan. I wanted a 4 lb crisp trigger with short crisp reset and minimal creep and minimal pre-travel. Hmmmm.

I learned the action from my gun and the action timing post on czforum.com. Good stuff! I could polish out most critical points with my stone and sandpaper to get the creep reasonably, after I learned what moves.

I could retime the FP Block, but that would increase pretravel....ok, I'll pony up for the CGW kit.

BUT that sear cage moves...with the hammer....this will never be safe...or consistent!....but it is in stock form. I still don't get this, but the sear is locked by the safety. That keeps the sear from rotating. It just moves back when you pull the trigger on safe....so everything moves, but doesn't rotate, so it is safe, if tuned right.

THE PARTS:
I bought the CGW defensive carry kit. I requested they install the strut. You should too. Be clear that they should not start the disconnector pin unless you will apply one. It is seriously hard to remove, just started. Like break your punch hard! The hammer pins are TIGHT. I also bought the adjustable SAO trigger.

THE FUN: I disassembled the entire gun per misc YouTube videos and my know how. The trigger pin is hard, but a real roll pin punch and a hammer will shear the swaged piece off and you are good to go.

The install was harder. First, there is a decent instruction for the kits on the Enos forum. They probably should eliminate the chatter about 1000 grit paper sanding everything. Basically, you need to polish/sand with a hard backing. Pin holes are probably fine as they get lots of force to wear down the burrs...doesn't hurt to check each pin hole feeling for roughness.

Stoning flats that can touch should help. Stoning the CGW parts is a waste of your time. I did stone the sides of the hammer a bit.

After the gun is together, you need to break in the new components.....maybe 100 dry fires. Then adjust the sear screw with red loctite on it.

Then add purple loctite to the trigger set screws and install. Set overtravel until the sear won't release, then back off in 1/4 turns until it releases. Then back off another 1/8th turn. Check for sear nose rub on hammer hooks. This is weird. Since the sear moves axially a bit, it is a bit hard to gage.

With pre travel, turn until reset doesn't happen. Loosen until pushing down on the stirrup results in a solid reset.

Let the loctite dry.

Check all functions, disconnect, sear release, sear movement on safe, sear nose to hammer at release, FP Block disengagement and engagement. Run the slide. Drop the slide with release. Really bully test things

Dry fire another 100 and recheck all functions. Now it is range test early. Start with 2 rounds and build up.

THE RESULT: 3.25 lb trigger with minimal creep and take up. Honestly, I might try a heavier hammer spring to bump this up and eliminate creep. Pretravel is ok too.

It is not a Tactical Sports trigger, but it is very good. Everything was basically drop in. Polishing is to reduce creep. The only way to really improve is by removing the FP block. I wanted that function.

Nathan · September 16, 2016, 04:05 PM

Just when I got all excited I found out the fpb was not being lifted enough causing the hammer to fall on a partially blocked pin which is destructive.... Now I need to cut the sear leg to get more lift from the fpb. Urrrgh!

IMO, hammer down, the fpb should fully engage the firing pin and have a 0 touch to 0.005" gap to the lifter. Then the lifter and sear timing should be such that the fpb fully disengages from the pin.

Now, I'm trying to decide whether to cut on the CGW parts or go back to CZ parts. I think I'll try some filing on the sear leg to get more lift from the lifter....it is soooo close right now!

September 13, 2016, 06:17 PM	#1
Nathan Senior Member Join Date: July 1, 2001 Posts: 6,331	My Experience Gunsmithing the CZ75 - Trigger Job I just want to share my experience and results improving the trigger on my CZ 75. THE BASE GUN: My base gun was a CZ75 B SA 9mm. It had 300-500 rounds through it. It had an ok 5.5 lb trigger, if I remember right. It had a bit too much creep for a range gun, but was good enough to be shot quite accurately. THE PLAN: I did a lot of research, but CZ detail info online is a bit spotty. If I buy only the CZ Custom hammer, what will I get? If I polish internals, what will I get? Sear Jig? How to cut the sear angle perfect? What is safe? Dimensions? These are what I couldn't figure out to my satisfaction. So, I had to make a plan. I wanted a 4 lb crisp trigger with short crisp reset and minimal creep and minimal pre-travel. Hmmmm. I learned the action from my gun and the action timing post on czforum.com. Good stuff! I could polish out most critical points with my stone and sandpaper to get the creep reasonably, after I learned what moves. I could retime the FP Block, but that would increase pretravel....ok, I'll pony up for the CGW kit. BUT that sear cage moves...with the hammer....this will never be safe...or consistent!....but it is in stock form. I still don't get this, but the sear is locked by the safety. That keeps the sear from rotating. It just moves back when you pull the trigger on safe....so everything moves, but doesn't rotate, so it is safe, if tuned right. THE PARTS: I bought the CGW defensive carry kit. I requested they install the strut. You should too. Be clear that they should not start the disconnector pin unless you will apply one. It is seriously hard to remove, just started. Like break your punch hard! The hammer pins are TIGHT. I also bought the adjustable SAO trigger. THE FUN: I disassembled the entire gun per misc YouTube videos and my know how. The trigger pin is hard, but a real roll pin punch and a hammer will shear the swaged piece off and you are good to go. The install was harder. First, there is a decent instruction for the kits on the Enos forum. They probably should eliminate the chatter about 1000 grit paper sanding everything. Basically, you need to polish/sand with a hard backing. Pin holes are probably fine as they get lots of force to wear down the burrs...doesn't hurt to check each pin hole feeling for roughness. Stoning flats that can touch should help. Stoning the CGW parts is a waste of your time. I did stone the sides of the hammer a bit. After the gun is together, you need to break in the new components.....maybe 100 dry fires. Then adjust the sear screw with red loctite on it. Then add purple loctite to the trigger set screws and install. Set overtravel until the sear won't release, then back off in 1/4 turns until it releases. Then back off another 1/8th turn. Check for sear nose rub on hammer hooks. This is weird. Since the sear moves axially a bit, it is a bit hard to gage. With pre travel, turn until reset doesn't happen. Loosen until pushing down on the stirrup results in a solid reset. Let the loctite dry. Check all functions, disconnect, sear release, sear movement on safe, sear nose to hammer at release, FP Block disengagement and engagement. Run the slide. Drop the slide with release. Really bully test things Dry fire another 100 and recheck all functions. Now it is range test early. Start with 2 rounds and build up. THE RESULT: 3.25 lb trigger with minimal creep and take up. Honestly, I might try a heavier hammer spring to bump this up and eliminate creep. Pretravel is ok too. It is not a Tactical Sports trigger, but it is very good. Everything was basically drop in. Polishing is to reduce creep. The only way to really improve is by removing the FP block. I wanted that function.

September 16, 2016, 04:05 PM	#2
Nathan Senior Member Join Date: July 1, 2001 Posts: 6,331	Just when I got all excited I found out the fpb was not being lifted enough causing the hammer to fall on a partially blocked pin which is destructive.... Now I need to cut the sear leg to get more lift from the fpb. Urrrgh! IMO, hammer down, the fpb should fully engage the firing pin and have a 0 touch to 0.005" gap to the lifter. Then the lifter and sear timing should be such that the fpb fully disengages from the pin. Now, I'm trying to decide whether to cut on the CGW parts or go back to CZ parts. I think I'll try some filing on the sear leg to get more lift from the lifter....it is soooo close right now!