More 223 problems

cervri · June 23, 2016, 07:39 AM

I purchased 100 rnds of used brass. FL sized and trimmed it yesterday, it was already deprimed. So this morning I go out to the shop to start loading. Right off the bat I had problems seating primers..CCi Small Rifle Primers...Cases are mixed and include Perfecta,LC, and Winchester. In looking at the cases, some do not look perfectly round. Some almost look square. Is this just a bad bunch of brass or what? The primers just do not want to seat, crushed a couple..

RickD1225 · June 23, 2016, 07:52 AM

Were the primer pockets swaged? I think LC brass is your issue.

Panfisher · June 23, 2016, 08:53 AM

Sounds like there is a primer crimp on at lease some of he cases. If you don't have a primer pocket tool, you can use you chamfer debur tool to remove the crimp. I ended up buying a Lyman primer pocket tool. Worth every penny of the $15 or so I paid for it.

qrz · June 23, 2016, 09:31 AM

If you buy a RCBS swager, you may have to make a coupler of sorts so it will work on some of the single stage presses. The coupler is a piece of short copper tubing that fits over the ram area and machining ridges to accomodate the RCBS tool. I'm not sure, but I think the Lee Classic Cast might be the only one for sure but unsure about other single stage presses. You tube has it somewhere.
If you buy a pocket uniformer, it won't insert into the pocket until the pocket has been swaged on many of the cases.
There are some all in one swagers that look decent and work well but cost more. Others might offer some inside info on which one to avoid or jump at.

cervri · June 23, 2016, 10:33 AM

I got primers in 34 out of 104 cases...there is a large variety of brands in the bunch. Some i had no idea,,Winchester, Speer, Perfecta. and LC where the ones i could read...I think I may have a small primer pocket cleaner, I'll check. Thanks for all the leads.

Clark · June 23, 2016, 11:09 AM

The Dillon tool is a nice one.
http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/...productId/3086

Don't lose the parts for the 308 brass when doing 223 brass, and vice versa.

I milled a slot in a board, but the other parts in the slot, and then screwed the tool to the board. I clamp the board to the bench when using it. This way the tool does not wiggle and the parts do not get lost.

Panfisher · June 23, 2016, 11:11 AM

I have never had my Lyman not.go into aNY primer pocket in many many cases. It is posible though, if that w er e to happen I have a chamfer debur tool that would cure it in a couple of twists. I chuck the screw in insert of my Lyman onto a drill press set to low speed and can remove crimps as fast as I can feed them. By hand worked the first day then hands were so cramped up, with lots of mil surp brass yet to go something had to give, thus the Lyman was purchased because it was the only one the store had on the wall.

mikld · June 23, 2016, 11:35 AM

I too suggest you "de-crimp" all the primer pockets. Won't hurt anything if you do the commercil brass too. As a lifelong machinist/mechanic the first time I ran across military brass w/crimped primers I immediately thought of a countersink. I already had a half dozen in my tool box so I did a few by hand (about 1/2 second each) and when I had a lot of brass to de-crimp, I just put the countersink in my hand drill or power screwdriver. It isn't necessary to remove a lot of metal and even when I purposely removed a lot (mebbe .030" too deep) none of the primers "leaked" on my 7.62x51 brass...

Countersinks are available at most hardware stores, inexpensively, but I usually get my machine tooling here; http://www.mcmaster.com/#countersinks/=12zam0q

JeepHammer · June 23, 2016, 12:04 PM

I have to go with a primer crimp also,
Keep in mind that not all primer tools line the primer pocket up with the primer you are trying to install.

Many will allow the primer to misalign with the brass,
Or the brass to misalign with the primer.

603Country · June 23, 2016, 01:52 PM

Like mikld, I used a woodworking countersink for the few cases I needed to do.

cervri · June 25, 2016, 03:27 AM

My Lyman deburring tool worked just fine, got em all done..Thank you all for the input..

SARuger · June 25, 2016, 06:56 AM

I use the RCBS primer crimp remover and chuck just the bit, into a Dewalt drill and hit each pocket. It only takes a second per case. I use it on all of my cases that I'm loading the first time.

The tool not only removes the crimp but it bevels the opening of the pocket and allows the primer to seat with less stress.

F. Guffey · June 25, 2016, 08:06 AM

Quote:

Like mikld, I used a woodworking countersink for the few cases I needed to do.

And before that Hatcher said he used his pocket knife.

F. Guffey

5whiskey · June 25, 2016, 08:53 AM

Quote:

use his pocket knife

Guilty... With a razor blade at least.

condor bravo · June 25, 2016, 09:35 AM

Next time you buy brass get commercial all with the same headstamp. Suggest Www.oncefiredbrass.com for good pricing on once fired brass. This morning they have Federal .223s at $7.50 per 100. Do not get the ones that say "crimp".

June 23, 2016, 11:35 AM	#8
mikld Senior Member Join Date: February 7, 2009 Location: Southern Oregon! Posts: 2,891	I too suggest you "de-crimp" all the primer pockets. Won't hurt anything if you do the commercil brass too. As a lifelong machinist/mechanic the first time I ran across military brass w/crimped primers I immediately thought of a countersink. I already had a half dozen in my tool box so I did a few by hand (about 1/2 second each) and when I had a lot of brass to de-crimp, I just put the countersink in my hand drill or power screwdriver. It isn't necessary to remove a lot of metal and even when I purposely removed a lot (mebbe .030" too deep) none of the primers "leaked" on my 7.62x51 brass... Countersinks are available at most hardware stores, inexpensively, but I usually get my machine tooling here; http://www.mcmaster.com/#countersinks/=12zam0q __________________ My Anchor is holding fast! I've learned how to stand on my own two knees...

June 25, 2016, 09:35 AM	#15
condor bravo Senior Member Join Date: August 23, 2014 Location: Nevada/Ariz/CA Posts: 1,753	Next time you buy brass get commercial all with the same headstamp. Suggest Www.oncefiredbrass.com for good pricing on once fired brass. This morning they have Federal .223s at $7.50 per 100. Do not get the ones that say "crimp". __________________ Ouch, the dreaded "M-1 thumb", you just know it will happen eventually, so why not do it now and get it over with??

June 23, 2016, 07:52 AM	#2
RickD1225 Member Join Date: November 29, 2015 Posts: 77	Were the primer pockets swaged? I think LC brass is your issue.

June 23, 2016, 08:53 AM	#3
Panfisher Senior Member Join Date: July 30, 2010 Location: Missouri Posts: 1,337	Sounds like there is a primer crimp on at lease some of he cases. If you don't have a primer pocket tool, you can use you chamfer debur tool to remove the crimp. I ended up buying a Lyman primer pocket tool. Worth every penny of the $15 or so I paid for it.

June 23, 2016, 09:31 AM	#4
qrz Senior Member Join Date: May 3, 2016 Posts: 101	If you buy a RCBS swager, you may have to make a coupler of sorts so it will work on some of the single stage presses. The coupler is a piece of short copper tubing that fits over the ram area and machining ridges to accomodate the RCBS tool. I'm not sure, but I think the Lee Classic Cast might be the only one for sure but unsure about other single stage presses. You tube has it somewhere. If you buy a pocket uniformer, it won't insert into the pocket until the pocket has been swaged on many of the cases. There are some all in one swagers that look decent and work well but cost more. Others might offer some inside info on which one to avoid or jump at.

June 23, 2016, 10:33 AM	#5
cervri Member Join Date: March 24, 2016 Location: Deming NM Posts: 75	I got primers in 34 out of 104 cases...there is a large variety of brands in the bunch. Some i had no idea,,Winchester, Speer, Perfecta. and LC where the ones i could read...I think I may have a small primer pocket cleaner, I'll check. Thanks for all the leads.

June 23, 2016, 11:11 AM	#7
Panfisher Senior Member Join Date: July 30, 2010 Location: Missouri Posts: 1,337	I have never had my Lyman not.go into aNY primer pocket in many many cases. It is posible though, if that w er e to happen I have a chamfer debur tool that would cure it in a couple of twists. I chuck the screw in insert of my Lyman onto a drill press set to low speed and can remove crimps as fast as I can feed them. By hand worked the first day then hands were so cramped up, with lots of mil surp brass yet to go something had to give, thus the Lyman was purchased because it was the only one the store had on the wall.

June 23, 2016, 12:04 PM	#9
JeepHammer Junior member Join Date: February 27, 2015 Posts: 1,768	I have to go with a primer crimp also, Keep in mind that not all primer tools line the primer pocket up with the primer you are trying to install. Many will allow the primer to misalign with the brass, Or the brass to misalign with the primer.

June 23, 2016, 01:52 PM	#10
603Country Senior Member Join Date: January 6, 2011 Location: Thornton, Texas Posts: 3,998	Like mikld, I used a woodworking countersink for the few cases I needed to do.

June 25, 2016, 03:27 AM	#11
cervri Member Join Date: March 24, 2016 Location: Deming NM Posts: 75	My Lyman deburring tool worked just fine, got em all done..Thank you all for the input..

June 25, 2016, 06:56 AM	#12
SARuger Senior Member Join Date: October 11, 2014 Location: Blue Ridge Mountains of VA Posts: 954	I use the RCBS primer crimp remover and chuck just the bit, into a Dewalt drill and hit each pocket. It only takes a second per case. I use it on all of my cases that I'm loading the first time. The tool not only removes the crimp but it bevels the opening of the pocket and allows the primer to seat with less stress.