4 fg in 1860 armys

caligula · July 19, 2020, 04:29 AM

I ran out of 3f Goex but I had a pound of 4f I use for priming my flinter. Got the bug tyo light up my 1860 Pietta and tried the fine stuff. Results were more bark and a setback with attitude. I like it but want a general consensus about the relevant safety factors here. Any comments?

44 Dave · July 19, 2020, 06:47 AM

I do believe Colt's instructions said they will handle "any grade of powder".

mehavey · July 19, 2020, 07:48 AM

I wouldn't make a steady diet of it (although scanning the know-
all Internet doesn't seem to show up with a lot of red flags)

caligula · July 19, 2020, 07:00 PM

Thanks, guys. I'm going to forge ahead and have fun with this. If the new load groups well, this could me a new standard for blue Mondays at the range.

woodnbow · July 22, 2020, 07:37 AM

I’d shoot it, find the most accurate load for your pistol and go burn that powder. Original cartridges were said to use 4f sporting grade powders and my Lyman Handbook shows loads for the stuff, with pressure data to boot.

bedbugbilly · July 24, 2020, 09:00 PM

Smaller grains equal higher density - I am assuming you are still using same volume.

I've been shooting C & Ball for some 55 years now - have known a lot of shooters over the years as well. I honestly have never known anyone who advocated that it was a good idea to use 4F and at least not in the same volume without adjusting the volume to equal a normal load of 3F.

Regardless of if you have a steel frame or not . . . it's your revolver. I'd be keeping tract though of how your revolver is reacting to the "more bark" and "more setback". In a brass frame, it would hammer the heck out of the recoil shield as well as ut strain on the cylinder pin. In a steel frame? You are still hammering steel on steel. If all a person has in 4F and they want to keep shooting - it seems more prudent to reduce your load and use a filler to try and match a normal 3F load.

TruthTellers · July 26, 2020, 08:15 PM

I would like to see one black powder gun that got blown up or seriously damaged from using 4F powder instead of 2F or 3F. That said, 4F is not the best powder to use with calibers over .36 because the burn rate is not ideal. .36 and smaller, I see no reason 4F cannot be used.

Hawg · July 27, 2020, 01:44 AM

Quote:

I would like to see one black powder gun that got blown up or seriously damaged from using 4F powder

The problem wouldn't be blowing up but battering, like using standard loads in a brass frame.

drobs · August 8, 2020, 10:34 AM

I tried 4F in both my steel framed 1860 - 44 and 1851 - 36 guns. Without a Chronograph cant really say it's that much different than 3F.

July 19, 2020, 04:29 AM	#1
caligula Member Join Date: November 1, 2017 Posts: 42	4 fg in 1860 armys I ran out of 3f Goex but I had a pound of 4f I use for priming my flinter. Got the bug tyo light up my 1860 Pietta and tried the fine stuff. Results were more bark and a setback with attitude. I like it but want a general consensus about the relevant safety factors here. Any comments?

July 19, 2020, 07:00 PM	#4
caligula Member Join Date: November 1, 2017 Posts: 42	4f in 1860 armys Thanks, guys. I'm going to forge ahead and have fun with this. If the new load groups well, this could me a new standard for blue Mondays at the range.

July 24, 2020, 09:00 PM	#6
bedbugbilly Senior Member Join Date: November 19, 2009 Posts: 3,287	Smaller grains equal higher density - I am assuming you are still using same volume. I've been shooting C & Ball for some 55 years now - have known a lot of shooters over the years as well. I honestly have never known anyone who advocated that it was a good idea to use 4F and at least not in the same volume without adjusting the volume to equal a normal load of 3F. Regardless of if you have a steel frame or not . . . it's your revolver. I'd be keeping tract though of how your revolver is reacting to the "more bark" and "more setback". In a brass frame, it would hammer the heck out of the recoil shield as well as ut strain on the cylinder pin. In a steel frame? You are still hammering steel on steel. If all a person has in 4F and they want to keep shooting - it seems more prudent to reduce your load and use a filler to try and match a normal 3F load. __________________ If a pair of '51 Navies were good enough for Billy Hickok, then a single Navy on my right hip is good enough for me . . . besides . . . I'm probably only half as good as he was anyways. Hiram's Rangers Badge #63

July 26, 2020, 08:15 PM	#7
TruthTellers Senior Member Join Date: October 22, 2016 Posts: 3,883	I would like to see one black powder gun that got blown up or seriously damaged from using 4F powder instead of 2F or 3F. That said, 4F is not the best powder to use with calibers over .36 because the burn rate is not ideal. .36 and smaller, I see no reason 4F cannot be used. __________________ "We always think there's gonna be more time... then it runs out."

August 8, 2020, 10:34 AM	#9
drobs Senior Member Join Date: July 17, 2015 Location: South Central MO / Africa Posts: 1,111	I tried 4F in both my steel framed 1860 - 44 and 1851 - 36 guns. Without a Chronograph cant really say it's that much different than 3F. __________________ NRA Life Member

July 19, 2020, 06:47 AM	#2
44 Dave Senior Member Join Date: February 24, 2013 Posts: 584	I do believe Colt's instructions said they will handle "any grade of powder".

July 19, 2020, 07:48 AM	#3
mehavey Senior Member Join Date: June 17, 2010 Location: Virginia Posts: 6,885	I wouldn't make a steady diet of it (although scanning the know- all Internet doesn't seem to show up with a lot of red flags)

July 22, 2020, 07:37 AM	#5
woodnbow Senior Member Join Date: December 2, 2012 Posts: 190	I’d shoot it, find the most accurate load for your pistol and go burn that powder. Original cartridges were said to use 4f sporting grade powders and my Lyman Handbook shows loads for the stuff, with pressure data to boot.