Best Cleaning Supplies

[pmsmith2032]

I am trying to put together a list for the best cleaning supply kit for general use (rifle, pistol, shotgun). I currently have a mix of old rods, cleaning solutions, etc and feel it is time for an upgrade. I'm looking for good supplies at reasonable prices. Thanks!

[LeverGunFan]

For good quality and reasonable prices, I suggest the Pro-Shot line of rods, jags and brushes:

http://www.proshotproducts.com/

I also use some Dewey rods; I'd probably have more Dewey equipment if I had a local dealer. For cleaning I primarily use the classic Hoppe's #9.

[RAfiringline]

Non-chlorinated brake cleaner, to squirt down the barrel. Whatever is in this stuff, I don't want it on my skin or in my eyes - so, rubber gloves and eye protection.

Regular engine oil cut with equal volume of kerosene, or maybe ATF with a lesser cut of kerosene.

Bore rope(s).

Toothbrushes.

Northern TP to wipe up excess cleaner and oil. A square inserted in the loop of a 9mm bore rope works well.

Bore rod and brass brushes for a more thorough bore cleaning during a field strip, which I personally do every 500 rds.

That's about all I use. If I had a rifle that had especially small moa, then I would go to some of the more expensive bore cleaners people mention in here.

[Unclenick]

Pmsmith2032,

Read this article. I and RC20 can attest to its veracity. The Bore Tech cleaners are pretty much in a class by themselves. The Slip2000 Carbon Killer works very well on very tough carbon jobs. Since the article was written, Bore Tech came out with their C4 carbon cleaner that handles most carbon. Gunzilla will, too, but it works best if you let it sit for a good bit (measured in days, not minutes). The Carbon Killer product is much faster than either of the other two, but does have the odor of the old Berryman's ChemTool paint pail and basket arrangement used for cleaning carburetors way back when.

The Bore Tech Eliminator and its newer Cu+2 copper-only solvent are so aggressive that a brass jag turns the patch blue in the time it takes to push it from one end to the other of the barrel, so you can't really tell when the cleaning is done. You can use plastic, nickel-plated, steel or stainless steel, or the special alloy Proof Positive line of jags that Bore Tech makes to solve the problem.

Since catching on the Bore Tech line, I have seldom needed either brushes or abrasive cleaners. I put Eliminator in a little pump sprayer I got from Wally World's travel-size personal items section. It's within the 3 oz airline limit. I take it to the range with me and pull my bolt and tip my muzzle down at the end of a range session, and put about three squirts in (the mist is fairly fine, so this isn't a lot) and I watch it run down to the muzzle. I put stoppers at each end of the barrel, case it, and go home. By the time I get there most of my barrels are pretty much clean and ready to be patched out.

One of the secrets to the above is that carbon that has never cooled completely is much softer and easier to dissolve than carbon that has cooled and started to harden.

Bore Tech also has a line of cleaning rods, but I haven't tried one to date. There are a number of good rods out there. Look for something with a thrust-type ball bearing handle. They are smooth and easy operating.

[FITASC]

Rods and brushes, I like ProShot products. Their patches are also excellent and all made in the US

Cleaners, Slip2000, Cleanzoil, Shooter's Choice are all good choices. I also like RIG grease for that application.

[Dufus]

I'll cast another vote for Bore Tech. Excellent line of products and tools for all firearm maintenance.

Also, the tech guys at Bore Tech will freely and expertly answer any question regarding the use of Bore Tech products.

[Scorch]

There are lots of good "next generation" products available. Boretech, Gunzilla, Eezox, Hoppes Gold Elite, Weapons Shield, etc. Most do one thing better than another, but most of the ones I have tried are pretty darn good. All it takes is a few minutes with a computer to discover and order these new products. No need to use stinky, flammable, toxic chemicals any more. Most of the new solvents are odorless (or nearly so), non-toxic, non-flammable, and much easier to use than the "old school" product we old-timers grew up with.

[RC20]

As per Unclenick, I went with The Carbon Killer (CK2k in my verbiage) and Bore Tech.

I don't know about th ones Scorch has listed. I do know per the reprot and my own boroscope inspection what works.

I sold a 1903A3 a while back. Barrel was fine, with CK2k it gleamed like the brand new barrel it was.

Bot BT and CK2k are non haz and Bore tech only has a very small odor, Ck2k none.

I clean my guns at the range while the barrels are warm and it goes even faster (I hate cleaning at home, I forget to do it and then want to go shooting).

As most of my cleaning is with the CK2k, I found an eye dropper and nylon brush works dynamite. Drops on before it goes into the gun, the nylon holds the fluid, more drops when it comes out the end, a few passes and dray patch. Repeat about 3 x and its clean (50 to 100 rounds fired)

Usually Bore tech at home with military barrels that have come copper in them.

I haen't had need of the latest bore tech (lot on hand), the Eliminator has a decent carbon cleaning capability to help out on layers and then if I hit one that would not come out or off, then the CK2k.

The worst actually was the family 270. It had been cleaned regulatory but all that shooting over the years (around 60) and not getting it out built it up. Took some work to get all the copper and carbon out of it.

Once its gone maint is easy.

Get two good quality ball bearing handle rods. I like the coated ones.

I have a nylon brush on one and a jag on the other. Saves vast amount of moving them off and on.

[HWS]

What, nobody has moved into the 21st Century? The words "bore snake" were not mentioned. Or do you consider those dirty words? (pun intended)

[Scorch]

What, nobody has moved into the 21st Century? The words "bore snake" were not mentioned.

Bore Snakes are a convenient tool, but they have a serious issue with breaking the string. When that happens, you wind up with a bore obstruction that cannot be removed. So you get a new barrel. And that's what you get for convenience.

[RC20]

What, nobody has moved into the 21st Century? The words "bore snake" were not mentioned. Or do you consider those dirty words? (pun intended)

As noted, what evidences is there that it cleans remotely like the listed materials?

Bore Snakes are a convenient tool, but they have a serious issue with breaking the string. When that happens, you wind up with a bore obstruction that cannot be removed. So you get a new barrel. And that's what you get for convenience.

So when the string breaks there is a chemical reaction that welds a plug in the barrel?

Otherwise I can think of several ways to get it out.

I don't use them, really have zero experience with them of course, but I don't think false premises are the way to discuss things.

[Nathan]

IMO, you need:
1) rods - I like Dewey coated
2) jags - Dewey ...they put more patch against the bore
3) JB’s Bore Bright - like a polishing compound for the bore
4) bore brushes - Any copper brush is fine, imo. I use them some, but not much. I prefer to us JB’S on a jag.
5) bore cleaner - Butch’s Bore Shine....good copper cleaner and all around solvent
6) clp - Weaponshield I bought into the hype of FP-10. Then they fired the chemist and messed with the formula. The chemist now makes Weaposhield. It has worked great for about 15 years, so i’m Not changing. Also removes lead from bore.
7) vice - I use the Tipton deluxe vice from midway...what ever works to hold it.
8) solvent trap - Menards has clear tubes with rubber ends for this
9) patches - Brownell’s square 3 sizes for me
10) Wax - Renessance Wax...great for wood tips and blued finish protection.
11) tools - tools for field stripping, etc
12) other - I cut blue paper towels in 4” squares for part wipe down and scrubbing. I have scissors for cutting 22 patches just right.
13) bore guides - what ever you want...I have a couple, especially for AR’s and bolt guns
14) carbon cutter - KG1 carbon remover
15) tool box - you need a tool box or something to organize it well...you can’t use what you lose. Really think about this some. You need the right box.
16) flitz - sometimes you just need it!
17) pipe cleaners, qtips, popcicle sticks, pick tools, AR bolt & bolt carrier scraper, bushing wrench, AR lug recess tool

[FITASC]

What, nobody has moved into the 21st Century? The words "bore snake" were not mentioned. Or do you consider those dirty words? (pun intended)

Good for a quick cleaning before a thorough cleaning at home. Not too bad for shotguns, but my advice for them is to get a length or Venetian blind cord or paracord and tie it to the rear loop so that WHEN (not if) the pull string breaks while the full snake is in your .22 barrel, that will be the only way to remove it.

[HWS]

That is a good idea FITASC. My snake is so long when I pull it through and the front reaches the muzzle break, the looped tail still has not gone in yet. That should not be a problem to pull out, right?

[FITASC]

Hopefully! I watched someone with a long .22 rifle have a pistol-length boresnake break the pull string. He was screwed; no way to get it out easily

[Unclenick]

The problem with the bore snake is that if it breaks with the brush bristles in the bore, trying to push that out with the bristles biased in the wrong direction and creating a wedge, is very difficult, and it will mark the bore on a .22 or another gun with relatively soft barrel steel. We've had past posts about stuck Bore Snakes and I found them discouraging enough that I don't use the two I have. Besides, with the modern bore cleaners, you don't need the mechanical brush scraping anyway.


Nathan,

I have everything you listed. Much of it just occupies shelf space now. I haven't used a bore brush in probably five years now. The coatings have mostly stripped off the Dewey rods over three decades, and as you'll find reference to elsewhere, a smooth steel rod surface can't do detectable damage to a bore, so an old Rig stainless rod I got in the 80's does everything but tiny bores, now. The Dewey jags are brass, so they dissolve in the Bore Tech and KG-12 copper removing products, so I don't use those jags any longer. Bore Tech Proof Positive jags have replaced them. I've got most of a quart of Butch's Bore Shine I haven't used in a dozen years. Way to slow compared to the Bore Tech and KG products, plus you have to smell ammonia and, of even worse consequence, the wife's nose smells the ammonia. There's also most of a quart of Montana Extreme doing the same sitting duty and much of a quart of Barne's CR-10, and a partial bottle of Sweet's 7.62. All the ammonia-based products are out now.

I haven't found JB Bore Compound or the bore polishing compound necessary for cleaning for a long time, though I still use them and Iosso Bore Cleaner (another mild polishing abrasive) for other things. They do help speed up barrel break-in, for which I wrap a couple of patches around an undersized bore brush as the polishing mop.

KG-1 is about like Bore Tech C4, as near as I can tell. Both fair carbon removers, but neither holds a candle to the aggressiveness of Slip2000 Carbon Killer. I soaked the tip of a Garand op-rod in Slip2000 for three hours one time to get all the decades-old hard carbon cake loosened up, and it did it. It also thinned the Parkersizing a bit, but it freed up the carbon, exposed the rust pitting underneath and let me get that off, too.

KG12 is every bit as fast as Cu+2 and may have even more copper capacity, but has the drawback that it doesn't give a color indication to let you be sure when it's finished, so, at this point I would only recommend it for people who own a borescope they can check cleaning progress with, or those willing to apply it first, then apply Bore Tech's Eliminator or Cu+2 to confirm the copper is gone. But again, you can't use a brass jag for this or the copper in the brass will turn the patch blue.