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Old February 23, 2018, 12:32 PM   #26
TunnelRat
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Well I hope so. I'd like a friend to mix some into my mags so when I'm practicing I'd have reason to do a "tap, rack, access" drill that I won't expect.
That's a pretty standard and smart thing to do. It's also a great way to catch a flinch.
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Old February 28, 2018, 07:34 PM   #27
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I made a dummy for M-1 carbine out of regular components, and put something or other in the primer, I think rubber. Well I was gonna sell a carbine I had not used for awhile at a show. The night before I was testing the function for any new issues. You know what. I went to the show and cleared the carbine at the entrance. Dink, dummy flies out, and it looks like real round. This did not impress the checker at all. But I proved it was a dummy and he let me in. Never tried that again. I put some red Azooms in a new sXs shotgun for dry firing and then stored it with those chambered. What could go wrong. I had cleaned and lubed and wiped down. Eventually I took the shotgun out and found the bright steel at the chamber mouths was turning. Like it was starting to rust. Maybe something in the metal or coating? Luckily was able to clean up the minor staining without any real rust or pitting. Now I leave nothing in it. I use the red plastic Italian dummy rounds alot. They work nice for awhile but either the spring loaded part breaks or the plastic separates from the brass base. I agree with drilling holes in DIY dummy cases for ident. That is how the old military dummies were made. As paint etc. will eventually rub off the bullet.
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Old March 4, 2018, 06:06 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by fredvon4 View Post
I found the silicon in primer pocket too soft... made up my brass dummy for 9mm, 45 acp and 45 colt...Then found a paper hole punch that is close enough... punched bicycle inner tube DOTs.... silicone the pocket..put rubber Dots on wet silicone and made flush

RED permanent sharpie helps keep them away from my live rounds
That's a great idea. I have a variable size leather punch that might work with. Up to this point when they've shown some wear I've just been digging the old silicone from the primer pockets and refilling. Let them sit overnight and slice flush with a razor blade.

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Old March 4, 2018, 07:13 PM   #29
In The Ten Ring
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That's a pretty standard and smart thing to do. It's also a great way to catch a flinch.

I hope it wouldn't cause a flinch! I have enough trouble already.

A friend used to leave one chamber empty on his revolver, spin the cylinder, close it up, and use that to train himself out of flinching.

****************

I did a great deal of dry firing last night with the snap caps. I hope the Tipton version is up for it.

Last edited by In The Ten Ring; March 4, 2018 at 07:32 PM.
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Old March 4, 2018, 09:50 PM   #30
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That's a pretty standard and smart thing to do. It's also a great way to catch a flinch.

I hope it wouldn't cause a flinch! I have enough trouble already.
I think you misunderstood. It doesn't cause a flinch. It catches a flinch in the sense of showing you that you have one that you didn't know about. You see the sight jump at the end of your trigger pull when you expect recoil and there isn't any.
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Old March 6, 2018, 04:45 PM   #31
cw308
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I found the Tipton Snap Caps the best , there is a cap that looks just like Tipton caps but don't last as long TRADITION from Italy. Tradition will work fine , the spring loaded primers wind up jammed up in the body , I tried filling the void with silicone caulking , better then nothing.
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Old March 6, 2018, 06:06 PM   #32
Ricklin
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.22 snap caps

I use plastic drywall anchors for snap caps in my .22 revolver.

They work very well. The polyethlyne material is quite tough and takes the firing pin hits nicely.

Won't ever mistake them for a live round, they are dirt cheap. And they still work as a wall anchor if you need one.
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Old March 6, 2018, 11:52 PM   #33
Bill DeShivs
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Wall anchors do little to nothing to protect a firing pin. The pin simply penetrates them.
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Old March 7, 2018, 07:54 AM   #34
Ricklin
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Not the case

Bill,
That's not the case and has not been my experience. Polyethylene is tough stuff and the firing pin is nicely cushioned by the material.

I'm sure the wall anchors are quite variable in construction. It's a simple injection molded part that is made by right around a zillion companies.

The ones I use have a pretty thick rim and are not deformed or penetrated in any way after a lot of use as a snap cap.

Heck I can use them as a wall anchor after they have been snap caps. I'll continue the practice but of course appreciate your caution.
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