2 Very simple M1a sights questions for exp. shooters

[dvdcrr]

1. What do you do to the elevation knob or sight assembly to loosen the elevation knob for calibration (when you have already loosened the elevation knob screw all the way and the knob still refuses to disengage or come loose)

2. How do you calibrate the windage knob and screw so that it has equal travel (adjustment) in each direction from the center line?

Thanks! I have read the Duff article and while it does tell you to loosen the elevation knob screw all the way to allow you do move the knob it doesn't say what to do when said screw is loose and knob does not cease moving the sight upon rotation.

[kraigwy]

I don't know what you are talking about ref; calibrating the elevation sight. It should be 9-11 clicks from the bottom to get you zeroed at 200 yards. Thats the norm and will give you enough elevation to shoot 1000 yards. If that don't suite you, you can get a taller or shorter front sight post to get the elevation zero you want..

Ref the rear sight. Put it on mechanical zero (where the marks line up) and then shift the front sight left or right to get a true zero to match your mechanical zero.

Taking the windage knob completely out will allow you to remove the elevation post if that's what you are trying to do.

To calibrate the marks on the elevation knob, run the front sight all the way down. Loosen the left screw so you can rotate the know. Put it on, say 200, then twist it like you were trying to run the sight down however many clicks it takes you to get your 200 yard zero. Tighten the sights and count up that number of clicks and it should be on the 200 yard mark. If not, re-do it.

After this is done you should be able to put the sight on the 300 mark and be zeroed for 300, 400, 500, etc.

This only works if you use a center mass, or point of aim, sight picture. If you use a 6 o'clock hold it wont work because the bullseye is different sizes.

[dvdcrr]

thanks Kraig, I will try