Shotgun stock "repair"

Hardcase · September 23, 2009, 11:30 AM

I've got a nice pair of Winchester 1897s that belonged to my great grandfather. They're in excellent shape, except that the stocks are beginning to crack at the wrist, from the end where the stock attaches to the breech, several inches into the wrist (they're both around a hundred years old - I'd be cracking, too.) The cracks look like they're on the surface, but with the mounting bolt that the 1897s use, there's not a tremendous amount of wood below the surface.

I can apply up and down torque to the stock and make the cracks flex, so it's pretty clear to me that, left alone, they will get worse. Obviously, one way to fix the problem is to replace the stock. I considered that, but then I started thinking (and people who know me say that this is when the wheels fall off the bus.) Back when my great grandfather and grandfather were shooting these guns, they were tools, not much different from a wrench or a hammer. And back in the day, they didn't have much money, certainly not enough to buy a new stock. So, obviously, they would repair what they had.

Now, I've seen the results of some of their gun repair jobs - I have an old Smith and Wesson revolver whose disintegrating grips were wrapped with layer upon layer of friction tape. But, again, with the thinking, I started wondering what would happen if I got a long leather thong, maybe something on the order of a leather shoelace, got it wet, then wrapped the wrist of the stock very tightly. As the leather dries, it should shrink and provide support to the stock, keeping it original and with a relatively period-type repair.

It seems like it would be keeping with the spirit of how these guns were maintained and repaired, without being terribly hokey. I'd just like to get a little feedback from somebody to find out if it is actually practical.

If not, I can always buy a new stock. Oh, and if it makes any difference, I don't shoot these guns a lot, maybe a box of shells one Saturday a month, or less.

Scorch · September 23, 2009, 11:43 AM

Your idea about making a "period-type repair" sounds OK until you really look at it. Leather won't shrink a whole lot, no matter how hard you try. The "wet it and let it shrink" stuff was rawhide, and it would work OK for a temporary fix, but even that is not a long-term solution. Folks "way back then" used sheet brass or sheet copper to make wrist repairs on rifles and shotguns, and they were mostly unsatisfactory even back then. They would replace the "tool handle" when it broke. I have seen gunstocks carved out of fence posts, juniper trees, old boards, even branches off of trees. All work as well as could be expected given the source of the materials.

A new stock for your 1897 shotgun is not very expensive, I would just get a new stock and try to copy the lines of the old stock when you shape it. These folks have them available, and the price is very reasonable.

http://www.gunstocksinc.com/web_page...gun-stocks.htm

Evan Thomas · September 23, 2009, 03:26 PM

If you can get the cracks to open up a bit by flexing the stock, it's probably repairable. Get some thin, slow-curing epoxy that's made for wood (System Three with the slowest hardener would work well) and a long, thin, flexible metal artist's spatula with about a 2" blade (look for Langnickel palette knives at the art supply store).

Put some paste wax on the stock to protect it, being SURE not to get any in the cracks. Mix the epoxy thoroughly and work it into the cracks with the spatula. If you can flex things a bit as you go, that'll help work the epoxy in. (You can also, very carefully, use hardwood wedges to open the cracks a bit.) Take your time. For larger cracks that don't look like they'll want to close with minimal clamping pressure, use wood dust to thicken the epoxy. Wipe off the excess. Use woodworking clamps, padded hose clamps, or pieces of inner tube to close up the cracks, remove the clamps, clean up the excess epoxy again, and reclamp.

Now leave it alone for at least two days. The slow-curing epoxy does take that long. When you unclamp it, there will inevitably be some squeeze-out on the surface, but the wax should make it fairly easy to remove.

Hardcase · September 23, 2009, 11:39 PM

Good points, Scorch. Vanya, I'll work on your suggestion this weekend. Given the condition of the stocks, I don't think that I can make things any worse than they are. And if it doesn't work, I'll pick up a couple of new ones.

jtburton · September 24, 2009, 08:07 AM

I found that Brownell's AcraGlas bedding epoxy works well for stock repair. As others mentioned wax the area around the crack, made sure it is clean of all oil, spread it as far as possible and work a small amount of epoxy into it. If you will then heat the AcraGlas gently with a torch it will liquify and run into the crack. Then immediately close the crack as tightly as you can. Rubber tubing or strips of inner tube work well to pull the crack closed. Leave it overnight and you should be good to go with just a little cleanup of the epoxy that did not go into the crack. A sharp knife use carefully will break of the overflow that has flattened against the finish you waxed.
I have repaired a couple of stock crack this way, and it is a strong repair if the wood is not oily.
Jim

September 23, 2009, 11:30 AM	#1
Hardcase Senior Member Join Date: April 14, 2009 Location: Sunny Southern Idaho Posts: 1,909	Shotgun stock "repair" I've got a nice pair of Winchester 1897s that belonged to my great grandfather. They're in excellent shape, except that the stocks are beginning to crack at the wrist, from the end where the stock attaches to the breech, several inches into the wrist (they're both around a hundred years old - I'd be cracking, too.) The cracks look like they're on the surface, but with the mounting bolt that the 1897s use, there's not a tremendous amount of wood below the surface. I can apply up and down torque to the stock and make the cracks flex, so it's pretty clear to me that, left alone, they will get worse. Obviously, one way to fix the problem is to replace the stock. I considered that, but then I started thinking (and people who know me say that this is when the wheels fall off the bus.) Back when my great grandfather and grandfather were shooting these guns, they were tools, not much different from a wrench or a hammer. And back in the day, they didn't have much money, certainly not enough to buy a new stock. So, obviously, they would repair what they had. Now, I've seen the results of some of their gun repair jobs - I have an old Smith and Wesson revolver whose disintegrating grips were wrapped with layer upon layer of friction tape. But, again, with the thinking, I started wondering what would happen if I got a long leather thong, maybe something on the order of a leather shoelace, got it wet, then wrapped the wrist of the stock very tightly. As the leather dries, it should shrink and provide support to the stock, keeping it original and with a relatively period-type repair. It seems like it would be keeping with the spirit of how these guns were maintained and repaired, without being terribly hokey. I'd just like to get a little feedback from somebody to find out if it is actually practical. If not, I can always buy a new stock. Oh, and if it makes any difference, I don't shoot these guns a lot, maybe a box of shells one Saturday a month, or less. __________________ Well we don't rent pigs and I figure it's better to say it right out front because a man that does like to rent pigs is... he's hard to stop - Gus McCrae

September 23, 2009, 11:43 AM	#2
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	Your idea about making a "period-type repair" sounds OK until you really look at it. Leather won't shrink a whole lot, no matter how hard you try. The "wet it and let it shrink" stuff was rawhide, and it would work OK for a temporary fix, but even that is not a long-term solution. Folks "way back then" used sheet brass or sheet copper to make wrist repairs on rifles and shotguns, and they were mostly unsatisfactory even back then. They would replace the "tool handle" when it broke. I have seen gunstocks carved out of fence posts, juniper trees, old boards, even branches off of trees. All work as well as could be expected given the source of the materials. A new stock for your 1897 shotgun is not very expensive, I would just get a new stock and try to copy the lines of the old stock when you shape it. These folks have them available, and the price is very reasonable. http://www.gunstocksinc.com/web_page...gun-stocks.htm __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

September 23, 2009, 03:26 PM	#3
Evan Thomas Senior Member Join Date: July 7, 2008 Location: Upper midwest Posts: 5,631	If you can get the cracks to open up a bit by flexing the stock, it's probably repairable. Get some thin, slow-curing epoxy that's made for wood (System Three with the slowest hardener would work well) and a long, thin, flexible metal artist's spatula with about a 2" blade (look for Langnickel palette knives at the art supply store). Put some paste wax on the stock to protect it, being SURE not to get any in the cracks. Mix the epoxy thoroughly and work it into the cracks with the spatula. If you can flex things a bit as you go, that'll help work the epoxy in. (You can also, very carefully, use hardwood wedges to open the cracks a bit.) Take your time. For larger cracks that don't look like they'll want to close with minimal clamping pressure, use wood dust to thicken the epoxy. Wipe off the excess. Use woodworking clamps, padded hose clamps, or pieces of inner tube to close up the cracks, remove the clamps, clean up the excess epoxy again, and reclamp. Now leave it alone for at least two days. The slow-curing epoxy does take that long. When you unclamp it, there will inevitably be some squeeze-out on the surface, but the wax should make it fairly easy to remove. __________________ Never let anything mechanical know you're in a hurry.

September 23, 2009, 11:39 PM	#4
Hardcase Senior Member Join Date: April 14, 2009 Location: Sunny Southern Idaho Posts: 1,909	Good points, Scorch. Vanya, I'll work on your suggestion this weekend. Given the condition of the stocks, I don't think that I can make things any worse than they are. And if it doesn't work, I'll pick up a couple of new ones. __________________ Well we don't rent pigs and I figure it's better to say it right out front because a man that does like to rent pigs is... he's hard to stop - Gus McCrae

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September 24, 2009, 08:07 AM	#5
jtburton Junior Member Join Date: September 24, 2009 Location: N Alabama Posts: 3	I found that Brownell's AcraGlas bedding epoxy works well for stock repair. As others mentioned wax the area around the crack, made sure it is clean of all oil, spread it as far as possible and work a small amount of epoxy into it. If you will then heat the AcraGlas gently with a torch it will liquify and run into the crack. Then immediately close the crack as tightly as you can. Rubber tubing or strips of inner tube work well to pull the crack closed. Leave it overnight and you should be good to go with just a little cleanup of the epoxy that did not go into the crack. A sharp knife use carefully will break of the overflow that has flattened against the finish you waxed. I have repaired a couple of stock crack this way, and it is a strong repair if the wood is not oily. Jim