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Old December 7, 2017, 09:37 PM   #1
GorillaGunworks
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How to Properly Polish a Feed Ramp

Hey Guys i did a little video on how to Properly Polish a Feed Ramp Quick and Easy for those interested in doing this simple Upgrade at home. Not much is needed to do the job. Hope this helps some of you guys out.

https://youtu.be/fxl0CHTdRpw
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Old December 7, 2017, 09:53 PM   #2
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Great video, thanks.
But you scared me a bit with the speed of your air grinder. Doesn't the barrel get too hot, by working that fast?
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Old December 7, 2017, 10:38 PM   #3
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Nice video. I do this to all my feed ramps and works great. Never tried to polish inside the chamber, may give it a try.
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Old December 7, 2017, 11:12 PM   #4
GorillaGunworks
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Originally Posted by BOOGIE the oily View Post
Great video, thanks.
But you scared me a bit with the speed of your air grinder. Doesn't the barrel get too hot, by working that fast?
Lol, no the part will not heat up to anywhere near the heat produced by a fired round, and I use a electric foredom rotary tool not air grinder. I like electric because I can control the speed with my foot pedal.
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Old December 7, 2017, 11:13 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Troy800 View Post
Nice video. I do this to all my feed ramps and works great. Never tried to polish inside the chamber, may give it a try.
Do try it, it's simple and makes a positive difference.
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Old December 7, 2017, 11:52 PM   #6
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Thank you GorillaGunworks. Will try it on my Bersa.
And you live in Hialeah. I used to live in Miami Gardens.
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Old December 8, 2017, 02:09 AM   #7
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...makes a positive difference.
What sort of function issues did you note before polishing the chamber?
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Old December 8, 2017, 03:34 AM   #8
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Sorry, but I would NEVER do that to the chamber.
What you end up with is an oversize chamber, plus your round can now seat too deeply.
Should a chamber actually NEED polishing, it shouldn't be polished at full speed, with that compound, for that length of time.
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Old December 8, 2017, 04:28 AM   #9
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Bill ,you're right.
I do it only to fix problems , with abrasive paper .Finer than 400 grit is only for show .Go back and forth parallel to the bore.
Examine all areas for burrs as a burr of even .001" can cause feed problems.
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Old December 8, 2017, 04:30 AM   #10
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Heck of a welcome,huh!? Please understand its not personal.
The content of your vids is .."controversial".
The engineering requirements on your chamber include size (length and diameter) Form (roundness,cylindricity" )Location/orientation,and surface finish.
Same with the ramp. I'd guess something like a 63 rms finish,and I'd bet it gets monitored at Glock with a profilometer.
I'd bet the gun was in spec.

"Ease of extraction?" With most semi-autos,even war finish chambers,what happens if you remove the extractor?And fire a round? Will it stay in the chamber? I'm thinking its coming out,blowback style.It will probably jam,because without the extractor,the ejector won't work.

The reamer left a round,true chamber to size.Did you use pin gauges to measure the dia before and after? Don't assume. What about taper,or out of round,or belling,or jugging?? We probably don't have an air gauge...

It would be interesting to set your barrel up in my Harig index fixture,true to a pin gauge in the bore,and see what the indicator say happened in the chamber.

Glocks have been known to bulge or blow cases from lack of case support.

Would you suppose your nice radius blend gives about .030 less case support?

You might be able to sell the shiny,but it comes at the price of form and dimension.
Think microscopic on the tool finish. What is the chamber as machined? Little lines go around the chamber like screw threads...sort of.They have peaks and valleys.
Assuming no major flaws,we might just cut the peaks off to plateaus. Take the hair off,if necessary.

Now,when polishing,what do you do when you change grit? Change direction. You want to cross the lines you are trying to remove.That felt and compound is traveling in the same direction as the cutter did,and it will polish down in the valleys,too.
How do I know this? I spent many years building plastic injection molds.
I was sent to Chicago by my employer to understudy a Master Tool and Die Finisher. He was polishing coining dies for a mint when I arrived.

Plastic molds have requirements similar to a chamber.Form and accuracy must be held. Appearance is critical,especially on clear parts. And those plastic walls,injected at shotgun chamber pressures really want to get stuck in the mold.

The basic technique you might try is"draw stoning". Parts come out of a mold in "direction of draw" That would be the stone stroke direction.

You might use a 600 or 800 grit to start on the ramp. Gesswein or equiv polishing stone.Lay it flat on your work and stroke. The stone will break down to conform. The high spots will come off first. Watch the low spots evenly fade.

In the chamber? If you must,...I might use a very fine round stone,but probably a lap. Brass tubing would work. I'd use diamond polishing pasre myself,but you may try your Polish-O-Ray. Put some kerosene with it to make a slurry.
Rest your barrel in a vee block. You need good light. Maybe magnification.
Stroke the brass tube chargedwith slurry flat on the chamber wall.
You must see your surface texture. That is your "depth gauge" Strokea strip about 10 minutes wide on the clock face,full length of the chamber. Then rotate your work,and do another strip. All the way round. (First job the Master gave me to work on was a multi-cavity mold that made plastic caps for spray paint cans! They were sinker EDM finish.)
If your tool finish texture is .0006,from peak to valley,and you take nearly all of it,you might leave .0002 of valleys.. You use your tool finish rms as a gauge as you polish. You sustain form,and you hold dimension to the low spots of the tool finish.And,BTW,we planned our tool finish to hit the dimension...
"The secret of a good polish is a good tool finish"

Now,you have a surface held true by the form of the stone or lap,and all the lines go the same direction as the feeding ammo.(Or extracting)
You knocked the high spots off,leaving a trace of the low.

I don't care if its shiny or not. Its smooth.

If you must buff it a few seconds,light pressure,fine compound,...I like an end brush,myself,for the ramp.Actually a nylon pistol brush and a bit of compound would cross my stone marks if you don't have polishing brushes. . Just a few seconds at maybe 300 rpm.

FWIW,when I cut a chamber,I might go back in with a soft,fine stone.(or not!) The finer small Sunnen hone stones work pretty good.Or I super glue a bit of Gesswein stone on a stick of brass . 600 grit or finer. I run the lathe slow,and stroke in and out. Look real close,you see cross hatch.And I might be in there 20 seconds.Less is more.
I DO NOT wind the lathe up and go in with sandpaper on a stick.

Here is an old trick. The mechanical pencils with the thin lead. Hard lead is best..If you use that as a probe,dragging it on a chamber wall or ramp..you'd be surpised how you can feel any glitch.If the pencil won't feel it,your bullet/brass wont feel it. And it won't leave a scratch.

Last edited by HiBC; December 8, 2017 at 07:40 AM.
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Old December 8, 2017, 09:37 AM   #11
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I've polished a bunch of those over the years, but just the ramps and along the entry area into the chamber. I prefer to use a polish called Zam...which is very fine. An old gunsmith years ago told me about polishing things like that, without removing appreciable material, and I've always adhered to that theory. You are polishing, not grinding or sanding the material away. I see no problem with the way it was done in the video.
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Old December 8, 2017, 03:14 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by BOOGIE the oily View Post
Thank you GorillaGunworks. Will try it on my Bersa.
And you live in Hialeah. I used to live in Miami Gardens.
Born and raised friend
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Old December 8, 2017, 03:15 PM   #13
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What sort of function issues did you note before polishing the chamber?
No issues prior I tend to do it to prevent issues and it's makes it a whole lot easier for the extractor as well.
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Old December 8, 2017, 03:21 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Bill DeShivs View Post
Sorry, but I would NEVER do that to the chamber.
What you end up with is an oversize chamber, plus your round can now seat too deeply.
Should a chamber actually NEED polishing, it shouldn't be polished at full speed, with that compound, for that length of time.
Sorry Bill, but I will have to disagree with you there friend. You are not removing any material simply polishing the surface does not take much time to polish. I can guarantee you if you take chamber measurements before and after there would be no difference. Danger zone is if you went crazy with some aggressive abrasives or sandpaper that will actually remove and you remove several thousands now your running into problems because you can cause cracked and split casings when you fire your weapon. But using a ultra fine compound like the brownells Polish O Ray 555 won't really remove material from the chamber.
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Old December 8, 2017, 03:22 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by mete View Post
Bill ,you're right.
I do it only to fix problems , with abrasive paper .Finer than 400 grit is only for show .Go back and forth parallel to the bore.
Examine all areas for burrs as a burr of even .001" can cause feed problems.
^^^
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Old December 8, 2017, 03:26 PM   #16
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Heck of a welcome,huh!? Please understand its not personal.
The content of your vids is .."controversial".
The engineering requirements on your chamber include size (length and diameter) Form (roundness,cylindricity" )Location/orientation,and surface finish.
Same with the ramp. I'd guess something like a 63 rms finish,and I'd bet it gets monitored at Glock with a profilometer.
I'd bet the gun was in spec.

"Ease of extraction?" With most semi-autos,even war finish chambers,what happens if you remove the extractor?And fire a round? Will it stay in the chamber? I'm thinking its coming out,blowback style.It will probably jam,because without the extractor,the ejector won't work.

The reamer left a round,true chamber to size.Did you use pin gauges to measure the dia before and after? Don't assume. What about taper,or out of round,or belling,or jugging?? We probably don't have an air gauge...

It would be interesting to set your barrel up in my Harig index fixture,true to a pin gauge in the bore,and see what the indicator say happened in the chamber.

Glocks have been known to bulge or blow cases from lack of case support.

Would you suppose your nice radius blend gives about .030 less case support?

You might be able to sell the shiny,but it comes at the price of form and dimension.
Think microscopic on the tool finish. What is the chamber as machined? Little lines go around the chamber like screw threads...sort of.They have peaks and valleys.
Assuming no major flaws,we might just cut the peaks off to plateaus. Take the hair off,if necessary.

Now,when polishing,what do you do when you change grit? Change direction. You want to cross the lines you are trying to remove.That felt and compound is traveling in the same direction as the cutter did,and it will polish down in the valleys,too.
How do I know this? I spent many years building plastic injection molds.
I was sent to Chicago by my employer to understudy a Master Tool and Die Finisher. He was polishing coining dies for a mint when I arrived.

Plastic molds have requirements similar to a chamber.Form and accuracy must be held. Appearance is critical,especially on clear parts. And those plastic walls,injected at shotgun chamber pressures really want to get stuck in the mold.

The basic technique you might try is"draw stoning". Parts come out of a mold in "direction of draw" That would be the stone stroke direction.

You might use a 600 or 800 grit to start on the ramp. Gesswein or equiv polishing stone.Lay it flat on your work and stroke. The stone will break down to conform. The high spots will come off first. Watch the low spots evenly fade.

In the chamber? If you must,...I might use a very fine round stone,but probably a lap. Brass tubing would work. I'd use diamond polishing pasre myself,but you may try your Polish-O-Ray. Put some kerosene with it to make a slurry.
Rest your barrel in a vee block. You need good light. Maybe magnification.
Stroke the brass tube chargedwith slurry flat on the chamber wall.
You must see your surface texture. That is your "depth gauge" Strokea strip about 10 minutes wide on the clock face,full length of the chamber. Then rotate your work,and do another strip. All the way round. (First job the Master gave me to work on was a multi-cavity mold that made plastic caps for spray paint cans! They were sinker EDM finish.)
If your tool finish texture is .0006,from peak to valley,and you take nearly all of it,you might leave .0002 of valleys.. You use your tool finish rms as a gauge as you polish. You sustain form,and you hold dimension to the low spots of the tool finish.And,BTW,we planned our tool finish to hit the dimension...
"The secret of a good polish is a good tool finish"

Now,you have a surface held true by the form of the stone or lap,and all the lines go the same direction as the feeding ammo.(Or extracting)
You knocked the high spots off,leaving a trace of the low.

I don't care if its shiny or not. Its smooth.

If you must buff it a few seconds,light pressure,fine compound,...I like an end brush,myself,for the ramp.Actually a nylon pistol brush and a bit of compound would cross my stone marks if you don't have polishing brushes. . Just a few seconds at maybe 300 rpm.

FWIW,when I cut a chamber,I might go back in with a soft,fine stone.(or not!) The finer small Sunnen hone stones work pretty good.Or I super glue a bit of Gesswein stone on a stick of brass . 600 grit or finer. I run the lathe slow,and stroke in and out. Look real close,you see cross hatch.And I might be in there 20 seconds.Less is more.
I DO NOT wind the lathe up and go in with sandpaper on a stick.

Here is an old trick. The mechanical pencils with the thin lead. Hard lead is best..If you use that as a probe,dragging it on a chamber wall or ramp..you'd be surpised how you can feel any glitch.If the pencil won't feel it,your bullet/brass wont feel it. And it won't leave a scratch.
I see where you are coming from friend and I agree in parts of what you say. And yes a firearm will extract without a extractor do to blow back but the extractor job is simply to hold the casing long enough to hit the ejector and knock the spent casing out of the firearm. But without the extractor you will have erratic ejection.
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Old December 8, 2017, 03:41 PM   #17
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I did not view the video
I do not think for any of my store bought guns I would mess with the chamber on purpose... if it is malfunctioning and under warranty.. you get the idea

ON the other hand I have a CZ 75 9mm and a Tarus PT 1911 .45 that did not eat SOME ammo as well as others...internet search suggested dragging FEED RAMP... within my skill set to polish... problem solved...for me

Dremel, felt and cloth buff, various compounds, mirror smooth....happiness....I very seriously doubt I removed .005 metal...but did make each able to eat all the cheap crap ammo I am feeding them
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Old December 8, 2017, 05:03 PM   #18
Bill DeShivs
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Here is an indisputable fact:

You can not polish steel without removing metal.

I am very familiar with the polishing compounds you mention and the Foredom flexible shaft machines- I have 5 of them in my shop.

I do more metal polishing in a week than most people do in their lifetimes.

Running a felt bob with 555 polish at full speed for that length of time will remove a CONSIDERABLE amount of metal- especially since chambers don't need polishing. And it can bevel the chamber mouth, which can cause deeper cartridge seating and excessive pressure when firing a cartridge that is jammed into the beveled mouth.

That's the trouble with Youtube-everyone thinks they are an expert.
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Old December 8, 2017, 05:50 PM   #19
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Bill is right on this. By polishing metal, you are removing it regardless. I would not touch a feed ramp unless I were having issues with one. In the past, I have encountered some chamber issues with burrs or other such that had to be removed (in school for gunsmithing). I always started with the lightest abrasive available, and always by hand. Typically I would use ceramic slip stones, and I would also use these for feed ramp polishing but I would only ever use them in a chamber if there was a burr or other material that had to be removed. I don't think I would ever use a dremel on the inside of a chamber. I think there are just too many unknowns.
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Old December 8, 2017, 06:43 PM   #20
GorillaGunworks
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Originally Posted by Bill DeShivs View Post
Here is an indisputable fact:

You can not polish steel without removing metal.

I am very familiar with the polishing compounds you mention and the Foredom flexible shaft machines- I have 5 of them in my shop.

I do more metal polishing in a week than most people do in their lifetimes.

Running a felt bob with 555 polish at full speed for that length of time will remove a CONSIDERABLE amount of metal- especially since chambers don't need polishing. And it can bevel the chamber mouth, which can cause deeper cartridge seating and excessive pressure when firing a cartridge that is jammed into the beveled mouth.

That's the trouble with Youtube-everyone thinks they are an expert.
I guess we will just agree to disagree on this subject. As far as Expertise I do consider myself somewhat of a expert I graduated from the Colorado school of trades as a gunsmith, apprenticed under a great local gunsmith for a few years before branching out on my own and forming my own gunsmith shop and I would have continued running my business if not for some medical issues I have. But your more than welcome to watch my videos and give your opinions friend. This is the United States of America and one of the best things we have is the right to our opinions and freedom of speech.
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Old December 8, 2017, 06:48 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by fredvon4 View Post
I did not view the video
I do not think for any of my store bought guns I would mess with the chamber on purpose... if it is malfunctioning and under warranty.. you get the idea

ON the other hand I have a CZ 75 9mm and a Tarus PT 1911 .45 that did not eat SOME ammo as well as others...internet search suggested dragging FEED RAMP... within my skill set to polish... problem solved...for me

Dremel, felt and cloth buff, various compounds, mirror smooth....happiness....I very seriously doubt I removed .005 metal...but did make each able to eat all the cheap crap ammo I am feeding them
Your right the biggest noticeable difference is when shooting steel cased ammo as steel is harder than brass and when it expands into the chamber it does not contract again like brass so the smoothness of the chamber wall really helps.
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Old December 8, 2017, 11:33 PM   #22
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First: I have respect for the Colorado School of Trades in Trinidad,Colorado.
I do not intend to bash them in any way.

I have considerable "credential" when id comes to polishing steel. I understudied one of the best mold and Die finishers in the USA. Like Mr DeShivs,I just may have more knowledge and experience at SOME ASPECTS of polishing steel than the instructors at Trinidad have.

I have no doubt that I am NOT the expert at making money polishing to blue guns. That is not my field.

I was trained and gained my experience on steel plastic injection mold cavities. Dimensional tolerances are tighter than nearly all gun work. Generally in the .001 or less range.Cosmetics are critical.When you look at a reblue gun for waviness,distorted reflections...look at the surfaces of high end consumer plastic products ,particularly clear products.
I get you mirror reflection of the cue-tip. We carefully study the mirror for distortion.
As a matter of fact,there are satellites in orbit that don't use wires or fibers for signal communication. They use light beams and mirrors. The mirrors are made of tungsten carbide. The total tolerance for flatness on those mirrors is
.0001 I know all this because I hand polished them. Customer feedback: Mine were the best they ever got.

Foredoms are good tools. I have a couple. One has the low range. I also have a big brother. Its a 1/2 hp 10,000 RPM version I use with rock hard felt wheels I cut with a hole saw and mount myself. It also drives 1 in Tampico fiber re-enforced end brushes.

Do you know what a DME profiler is? Probably don't have them at gunsmith school.
Its a cable drive hand tool,like a Fordom. Only it makes linear strokes. 0-14000 of them a minute,and 0-6mm stroke. It has a pistol grip and a variable eccentric.
That drives stones and laps.I have one,and know how to use it.
I don't own the Gesswein ultrasonic polishing tools,but I have used them.

Typically I would work from a machined ,ground,or EDM finish. We actually ,for example ,would burn a cavity to a specific EDM fin,say a 125. We would know that meant the "texture",high to low spots had a value of just over .001. Plus you have to remove about another .0005 of recast steel.To end up with the correct dimensions,we might leave .0015 to .002 to polish off.

A basic of polishing is that you begin with a uniform finish. Ground,machined,EDM,I don't care. It has peaks and valleys. We cut the peaks off without deepening the valleys.We do that by crossing the valleys.
As we reduce the peaks,we watch the valleys.The instant the valley disappears,we are done. Even polish is controlled by watching the valleys fade. That's how you hold dimension and flatness.
There is such a thing as polishing rouge. It uses rounded rocks. These are intended to burnish rather than cut.
But most polishing compunds use sharp rocks that cut. Silicon Carbide,aluminum oxide,etc. These are "cut" or "Cut and color" compounds.

And they DO remove steel.I do not use those. I cannot afford to have a larger rock,or a clump of rocks bugger up my work. I use diamond mold polishing compound.
In fact,while I recommend the Gesswein type polishing stones,for real work I use "puddle stones" The commercial stones are pressed and vitrified.They CAN break down to a clump of rocks,leaving scratches in the work. Maddening! Wet or dry sandpaper will do that,too.
Puddle stones are made by sifting tightly controlled grit in water and letting it naturally settle.That mud is dried and baked. We sawed our stones out of those blocks. They are similar to some Japanese water stones.


An old saying in the trade: "Indicators don't lie,and liars don't indicate"
No,I'm not calling you a liar.

You try this. Start with a piece of flat machined or ground steel.Maybe 1 or 2 in by 3 or 4 in. Doesn't matter much. Ideally,put it on a surface plate and use a height gauge and a .0001 indicator just to see what you have. No surface plate? Use your micrometer.
Then you do your best to polish the whole thing to look like a fine,optical mirror.Not a carnival mirror,but a non-distorted,accurate mirror.
Now go back and use your indicator again,or your mic. You WILL see a measurable change.Nothing else is possible.

Your chamber polishing: Did you take any measurements before you began? Or after? How can you claim to have had no effect? My .0001 indicator will measure a stripe of magic marker ink. Wipe the ink off,you have removed material.

You worked a while inside that chamber. Then there was a break in the vid,an edit. How long? You were working blind. How can you gauge when you cut enough?When to stop? Talk and assumptions come cheap. In fact,you don't know how much you cut.
Try playing with some CerroSafe. Cast your chamber. Get your mic out...IF you can get the casting out.

I'm not trying to have a whizzing contest or put you down . I'm trying to pass some knowledge and experience to you.

I agree with Mr DeShivs.He is a custom knifemaker,among other things. He does know about polishing.

I had issues with your trigger job,and now you are ,I'm sure,in good faith,advising folks to Dremel their chambers and feedramps.

As I said,I'm sure it well meaning.

IMO,for an "Everyman" DYI chamber "smoothing"...think about how firelapping works. Brass is used for laps because grit embeds in it.
HMMM? So if we rolled maybe 20 to 40 rounds of brass between plates charged with a high grade polishing grit,maybe 600-1200-or so,then wiped off excess...How would it be to just shoot those?They'd smooth and clean both feeding and extracting,.....The high spots would get knocked off,huh?

Last edited by HiBC; December 9, 2017 at 01:09 AM.
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Old December 9, 2017, 12:20 AM   #23
GorillaGunworks
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Originally Posted by HiBC View Post
First: I have respect for the Colorado School of Trades in Trinidad,Colorado.
I do not intend to bash them in any way.

I have considerable "credential" when id comes to polishing steel. I understudied one of the best mold and Die finishers in the USA. Like Mr DeShivs,I just may have more knowledge and experience at SOME ASPECTS of polishing steel than the instructors at Trinidad have.

I have no doubt that I am NOT the expert at making money polishing to blue guns. That is not my field.

I was trained and gained my experience on steel plastic injection mold cavities. Dimensional tolerances are tighter than nearly all gun work. Generally in the .001 or less range.Cosmetics are critical.When you look at a reblue gun for waviness,distorted reflections...look at the surfaces of high end consumer products ,particularly clear products.
I get you mirror reflection of the cue-tip. We carefully study the mirror for distortion.
As a matter of fact,there are satellites in orbit that don't use wires or fibers for signal communication. They use light beams and mirrors. The mirrors are made of tungsten carbide. The total tolerance for flatness on those mirrors is
.0001 I know all this because I hand polished them. Customer feedback: Mine were the best they ever got.

Foredoms are good tools. I have a couple. One has the low range. I also have a big brother. Its a 1/2 hp 10,000 RPM version I use with rock hard felt wheels I cut with a hole saw and mount myself. It also drives 1 in Tampico fiber re-enforced end brushes.

Do you know what a DME profiler is? Probably don't have them at gunsmith school.
Its a cable drive hand tool,like a Fordom. Only it makes linear strokes. 0-14000 of them a minute,and 0-6mm stroke. It has a pistol grip and a variable eccentric.
That drives stones and laps.I have one,and know how to use it.
I don't own the Gesswein ultrasonic polishing tools,but I have used them.

Typically I would work from a machined ,ground,or EDM finish. We actually ,for example ,would burn a cavity to a specific EDM fin,say a 125. We would know that meant the "texture",high to low spots had a value of just over .001. Plus you have to remove about another .0005 of recast steel.To end up with the correct dimensions,we might leave .0015 to .002 to polish off.

A basic of polishing is that you begin with a uniform finish. Ground,machined,EDM,I don't care. It has peaks and valleys. We cut the peaks off without deepening the valleys.We do that by crossing the valleys.
As we reduce the peaks,we watch the valleys.The instant the valley disappears,we are done. Even polish is controlled by watching the valleys fade. That's how you hold dimension and flatness.
There is such a thing as polishing rouge. It uses rounded rocks. These are intended to burnish rather than cut.
But most polishing compunds use sharp rocks that cut. Silicon Carbide,aluminum oxide,etc. These are "cut" or "Cut and color" compounds.

And they DO remove steel.

An old saying in the trade: "Indicators don't lie,and liars don't indicate"
No,I'm not calling you a liar.

You try this. Start with a piece of flat machined or ground steel.Maybe 1 or 2 in by 3 or 4 in. Doesn't matter much. Ideally,put it on a surface plate and use a height gauge and a .0001 indicator just to see what you have. No surface plate? Use your micrometer.
Then you do your best to polish the whole thing to look like a fine,optical mirror.Not a carnival mirror,but a non-distorted,accurate mirror.
Now go back and use your indicator again,or your mic. You WILL see a measurable change.Nothing else is possible.
Thanks for the info friend. And awesome write up by the way. All I was trying to get at is that by polishing the chamber the way I showed in the video will not cause any damaging effects to the chamber, again I'm not going at it for a long period of time and definitely not removing enough material to make the barrel unsafe or out of tolerences. I would never do something to a firearm to damage it intentionally.
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Old December 9, 2017, 02:05 AM   #24
BOOGIE the oily
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Wow, this forum is amazing.
Thank you HiBC, Bill DeShivs and GorillaGunworks for taking the time. All I knew about polishing was from a mechanic's point of view (not precisely "fine polishing", really), so all this information is gold for me.

So, Bersa's chambers are known for being not that tight, so I guess I'll pass on this one. Thanks again.
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Old December 9, 2017, 11:31 AM   #25
Frank Ettin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GorillaGunworks
...I do consider myself somewhat of a expert....
That's nice, but does anyone else consider you an expert? More importantly, how many recognized experts consider you an expert.

Proclaiming oneself an expert (or any number of other things) doesn't mean anything. What's meaningful is when others who have the knowledge to judge decide that someone is an expert (or any number of other things).
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