The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > The Skunkworks > The Smithy

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old June 7, 2018, 12:17 AM   #1
Chainsaw.
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 12, 2015
Location: Issaquah WA. Its a dry rain.
Posts: 1,712
Making an over travel stop.

Is this as simple as drill and tap, find the correct length screw, adjust and lock?

Does it need to be a particular distance up or down the trigger?

Im torn between higher on the trigger where there is more material or lower down the trigger where there is leverage...

Thoughts?
__________________
Just shoot the damn thing.
Chainsaw. is offline  
Old June 7, 2018, 05:33 AM   #2
dahermit
Senior Member
 
Join Date: October 28, 2006
Location: South Central Michigan...near Ohio, Indiana.
Posts: 5,291
For gosh sake, whatever you do, do not tell us the make and model gun you are making the stop for.
dahermit is offline  
Old June 7, 2018, 08:11 AM   #3
Chainsaw.
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 12, 2015
Location: Issaquah WA. Its a dry rain.
Posts: 1,712
Dont really see how thats important but ok.

Tanfoglio witness.
__________________
Just shoot the damn thing.
Chainsaw. is offline  
Old June 7, 2018, 09:55 AM   #4
Unclenick
Staff
 
Join Date: March 4, 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 15,239
The model can make quite a bit of difference. For example, on a Ruger Redhawk, the bottom of the spring tunnel behind the trigger near the top is a perfect place to drill out and thread for an overtravel stop, and that's exactly what I did with mine. I doubt that convenient cut exists in your Witness.

In a 1911 it makes no difference where the screw goes on the trigger because the trigger moves straight back and the 1911 trigger stirrups are so thick you can skeletonize them to access the screw from the side, as a Goldcup overtravel screw does.

Your Witness has a thin trigger stirrup, so you can't put much screw length through it without it rubbing your trigger finger. Just looking at a photo on the importer's web site, the place I would be looking is the angled up flat spot at the top of the back of the trigger. It'll be easier to drill into that flat, and you won't have to worry about the screw ever reaching through to your finger. It will also let you use a flat head screw if the only available stopping surface is polymer rather than steel (I've never looked closely at a Witness and can't tell from the photo).
__________________
Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member
CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor
NRA Certified Rifle Instructor
NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle
Unclenick is online now  
Old June 7, 2018, 11:22 AM   #5
Pahoo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 16, 2006
Location: IOWA
Posts: 7,331
Good question

Quote:
Dont really see how thats important but ok
Well it does make a difference and I do appreciate your post as I'm sure most of us can address this to their own forearm. I do a drill and tap as well as surface mounts. Have not done all that many but where there is a need, there is a way. …..

Be Safe !!!
__________________
'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing.
Pahoo is offline  
Old June 7, 2018, 12:30 PM   #6
Chainsaw.
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 12, 2015
Location: Issaquah WA. Its a dry rain.
Posts: 1,712
Okay, okay. I can totally see how it makes a difference now, forgive me for posting before coffee!

Ill have to see if I can put a screw in the frame, the only only down side is drilling a tanfoglio frame, they are hard as can be!
__________________
Just shoot the damn thing.
Chainsaw. is offline  
Old June 7, 2018, 12:33 PM   #7
T. O'Heir
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 13, 2002
Location: Canada
Posts: 10,418
"...as simple as drill and tap..." Depends on the pistol. So it being a Tanfoglio matters. Mostly about where and if you can D&T for a wee screw.
Which Tanfoglio Witness matters too. For the same reason.
__________________
Spelling and grammar count!
T. O'Heir is offline  
Old June 7, 2018, 02:01 PM   #8
Jim Watson
Senior Member
 
Join Date: October 25, 2001
Location: Alabama
Posts: 15,109
There is the proverbial "White trigger stop" just a glob of silicone sealant behind the trigger, trimmed to control aftertravel. Or a pencil eraser cemented in behind the trigger likewise. Don't laugh, the system was quite common on PPC revolvers at one time.
Jim Watson is offline  
Old June 7, 2018, 02:35 PM   #9
Chainsaw.
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 12, 2015
Location: Issaquah WA. Its a dry rain.
Posts: 1,712
No kidding? Most difficult part of that would be finding a glue that would stick to the frame. Hmm.
__________________
Just shoot the damn thing.
Chainsaw. is offline  
Old June 7, 2018, 11:04 PM   #10
4V50 Gary
Staff
 
Join Date: November 2, 1998
Location: Colorado
Posts: 20,114
I like the non-mechanical solution suggested by Jim. Next order can just peel it off and the gun isn't changed.
__________________
Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. Molon Labe!
4V50 Gary is offline  
Old June 8, 2018, 08:00 AM   #11
Chainsaw.
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 12, 2015
Location: Issaquah WA. Its a dry rain.
Posts: 1,712
Welp. That aint happening. I've heard rumors that the steel frames of these guns are ultra hard. Well the triggers are too. I've done a bit of light machining in my time are this stuff is as hard as AR wear plate. Guess I'll order the $53 trigger....or an eraser...
__________________
Just shoot the damn thing.
Chainsaw. is offline  
Old June 8, 2018, 01:52 PM   #12
zukiphile
Senior Member
 
Join Date: December 13, 2005
Posts: 3,179
Quote:
There is the proverbial "White trigger stop" just a glob of silicone sealant behind the trigger, trimmed to control aftertravel. Or a pencil eraser cemented in behind the trigger likewise. Don't laugh, the system was quite common on PPC revolvers at one time.
I used to glue on pieces of rubber wash, but I've since found little glue on silicon hemispheres at Home Depo. I don't trust their adhesive, and use superglue to put them on. A fingernail file will wear them down to the correct depth.
zukiphile is offline  
Old June 8, 2018, 04:36 PM   #13
Scorch
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 13, 2006
Location: Washington state
Posts: 13,430
Quote:
I've heard rumors that the steel frames of these guns are ultra hard.
EAA/Tanfoglio frames are not that hard. If they were, the Tanfoglio couldn't drill them easily either.
__________________
Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs.
But what do I know?
Summit Arms Services
Taylor Machine

Last edited by JohnKSa; June 9, 2018 at 12:42 AM. Reason: Removed snark.
Scorch is offline  
Old June 8, 2018, 05:41 PM   #14
JohnKSa
Staff
 
Join Date: February 12, 2001
Location: DFW Area
Posts: 21,801
For something a little more permanent than sealant or a rubber eraser, you should be able to use some JBWeld. It can be filed/sanded to fit and shape when it has cured and should stay in place just fine. I would rough up the spot where you want it to stick with some coarse sandpaper. It's also a grayish color so it shouldn't stand out too much compared to the color of the gun. If you want, once you've filed/sanded it to fit, you should be able to color it with an appropriate colored marker to make it less obtrusive.

Another option which is even more permanent, is to use a welder to put a small dot of metal on the back of the trigger. Then file it to the minimum height required for the trigger to release the sear.

Obviously these approaches could be used on either the triggerguard/frame or the trigger. I would recommend modifying the trigger since in the worst case you can buy a new trigger.
Quote:
EAA/Tanfoglio frames are not that hard. If they were, the Tanfoglio couldn't drill them easily either.
Tanfoglio uses a surface hardening treatment on at least some of their frames--maybe all of them. I assume that they do the drilling/shaping before applying the treatment.
__________________
Do you know about the TEXAS State Rifle Association?
JohnKSa is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:24 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2018 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent: thefiringline.com
Contact Us
Page generated in 0.08302 seconds with 8 queries