the best way to remove lead?

stegar1 · October 12, 2010, 01:26 PM

i shot some cast reloads out of my 1911 and can not belive the amount of lead left behind. i have even tried hooking up a 20ga brush to my drill. what takes it out?

**Unclenick** · October 12, 2010, 02:04 PM

Put PB Blaster or Kroil or Gunzilla in the bore and let it sit overnight. Then a lot will brush out. A lot of folks like to wrap a strand or two of pure copper scouring pad (e.g., Chore Boy) around a one-size undersized bore brush and scrub with it. Usually works quite well. The Lewis Lead Remover uses a bronze screen patch for this and also does a good job.

If you still can't get it out, you can buy Wipe Out No-Lead, which is an actual lead solvent. You could also buy an Outer's Foul Out, which removes the lead electrolytically.

Loader9 · October 12, 2010, 02:34 PM

My situation might be different than yours but I chuck the barrel up in a leather jawed vise with it pointing slightly down. I put paper on the floor to catch the non-chlorinated brake cleaner that I spay in the barrel to turn it ice cold quick. As quickly as possible I push as tight of a clean patch as possible down the barrel and the lead falls out of the other end. It's the cold and dis-similar metals contraction thingy that makes it turn loose. The same brake cleaner is fabulous for a barrel that won't clean but keeps pushing out black patches. Just a spray down the barrel and patches come out like they went in-clean.

1911rocks · October 12, 2010, 02:59 PM

Back in the day (1970-1990) the easy way consisted of

1) scrub bore with brush and solvent
2) run dry patches to dry bore
3) place a small cork in the bore at muzzle
4) drop a pea sized quantity of liquid Mercury.
5) Cork Chamber
6) Shake for 1-2 minutes
7) remove cork (either end) pour Mercury into a sealable glass bottle for reuse later

This quantity of mercury will do 100-200 cleanings.
EPA blah, blah, blah....Mercury hazards? Wear gloves, glasses, don't heat mercury or use it as cereal topping duh!

stegar1 · October 12, 2010, 03:39 PM

thanks, i will try scour pad and the brake cleaner first. jacketed only from now on !

1911rocks · October 12, 2010, 03:46 PM

Sounds like a simple solution. I'll take it for a spin.

shortwave · October 12, 2010, 04:30 PM

Brake cleaner works very well on lead but melts plastics and doesn't do wood any good either. Use carefully! Oil barrel afterwards as bk strips all oils out of steel.

shortwave · October 12, 2010, 04:42 PM

Brake cleaner works very well on lead but melts plastics and doesn't do wood any good either. Use carefully! Oil barrel afterwards as bk strips all oils out of steel.

Quote:

jacketed only from now on

Depending on how much lead you shoot, removal usually isn't a problem if you run a patch or two while shooting.

Problems arise when lead is left to build up.

Some say after a mag or two of lead, shoot a couple jacketed projectile's to clean lead out then resume shooting lead. I've never quite mustard up the courage for that method. To afraid of pressure spike

.

g.willikers · October 12, 2010, 06:55 PM

Some zing is wrong here.
Your trusty ole' 1911 should not be leading up like that.
Lead swc are all mine has ever digested, by the thousands, and even after two or three hundred rounds in an afternoon, there's hardly a trace of lead.
Just a little in the throat area.
Bullet hardness match to velocity?
Bullet diameter match to barrel diameter?
Roughly machined barrel, especially at the throat?
Or maybe what's in the barrel is bullet lube.
Something is not right.
It should not oughtta' do that.
If your gun will feed them, it's hard to beat the accuracy of the 200 grain lead swc.
That's why match competitors use them by the zillions.

Scorch · October 12, 2010, 07:12 PM

Lewis Lead Remover will remove the wayward lead.

Of course, it's easier to not put it there to begin with. Use bullets sized to .452" and lubed with a good lube.

Jeff H · October 14, 2010, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Some zing is wrong here.

+1000

Something is very wrong. All of my handguns digest a steady diet of lead and as long as it is properly sized and the right hardness for the velocity there is virtually no leading.

BUT to remove leading, the easiest solution I have found is to wrap some strands of copper Chore Boy scrubbnig pads arouns a brass brush and scrub for a minute or so. It doesn't take much effort to remove leading.

swmike · October 16, 2010, 09:54 AM

I used to have a leading problem in my 686. Couldn't resist loading "HOT" with lead bullets. To clean out the lead buildup I used this:

Lead Remover

IIRC, it used to be available under the name "Wipe Away" and I was able to buy it in actual patches. A couple of strokes through the bore and the lead would come out, sometimes in long threads where it was released from the rifling.

Also was great for cleaning the powder burns off the front of the cylinder. They did warn against using it on the bluing though.

Bill DeShivs · October 16, 2010, 01:31 PM

It may not be the best way, but a convenient and easy way is to simply use 0000 steel wool. It will NOT harm your rifling (unless you use it 3-4 times a day.)
Just stuff a tight wad of it in the chamber or bore, pour in a little solvent, and push it back and forth (or only one way, if you're anal about it.) Finish with patches. Oil.

October 12, 2010, 01:26 PM	#1
stegar1 Senior Member Join Date: August 23, 2010 Location: Dallas , TX Posts: 144	the best way to remove lead? i shot some cast reloads out of my 1911 and can not belive the amount of lead left behind. i have even tried hooking up a 20ga brush to my drill. what takes it out? __________________ YAT YAS Semper Fi

October 12, 2010, 02:04 PM	#2
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,063	Put PB Blaster or Kroil or Gunzilla in the bore and let it sit overnight. Then a lot will brush out. A lot of folks like to wrap a strand or two of pure copper scouring pad (e.g., Chore Boy) around a one-size undersized bore brush and scrub with it. Usually works quite well. The Lewis Lead Remover uses a bronze screen patch for this and also does a good job. If you still can't get it out, you can buy Wipe Out No-Lead, which is an actual lead solvent. You could also buy an Outer's Foul Out, which removes the lead electrolytically. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

October 12, 2010, 02:59 PM	#4
1911rocks Senior Member Join Date: September 9, 2006 Posts: 424	Another lead removal technique Back in the day (1970-1990) the easy way consisted of 1) scrub bore with brush and solvent 2) run dry patches to dry bore 3) place a small cork in the bore at muzzle 4) drop a pea sized quantity of liquid Mercury. 5) Cork Chamber 6) Shake for 1-2 minutes 7) remove cork (either end) pour Mercury into a sealable glass bottle for reuse later This quantity of mercury will do 100-200 cleanings. EPA blah, blah, blah....Mercury hazards? Wear gloves, glasses, don't heat mercury or use it as cereal topping duh!

October 12, 2010, 03:39 PM	#5
stegar1 Senior Member Join Date: August 23, 2010 Location: Dallas , TX Posts: 144	thanks, i will try scour pad and the brake cleaner first. jacketed only from now on ! __________________ YAT YAS Semper Fi

October 12, 2010, 03:46 PM	#6
1911rocks Senior Member Join Date: September 9, 2006 Posts: 424	I Like the Brake Cleaner Sounds like a simple solution. I'll take it for a spin.

October 12, 2010, 02:34 PM	#3
Loader9 Senior Member Join Date: July 29, 2008 Posts: 949	My situation might be different than yours but I chuck the barrel up in a leather jawed vise with it pointing slightly down. I put paper on the floor to catch the non-chlorinated brake cleaner that I spay in the barrel to turn it ice cold quick. As quickly as possible I push as tight of a clean patch as possible down the barrel and the lead falls out of the other end. It's the cold and dis-similar metals contraction thingy that makes it turn loose. The same brake cleaner is fabulous for a barrel that won't clean but keeps pushing out black patches. Just a spray down the barrel and patches come out like they went in-clean.

October 12, 2010, 04:30 PM	#7
shortwave Senior Member Join Date: December 17, 2007 Location: SOUTHEAST, OHIO Posts: 5,970	Brake cleaner works very well on lead but melts plastics and doesn't do wood any good either. Use carefully! Oil barrel afterwards as bk strips all oils out of steel.

October 12, 2010, 06:55 PM	#9
g.willikers Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2008 Posts: 10,442	Some zing is wrong here. Your trusty ole' 1911 should not be leading up like that. Lead swc are all mine has ever digested, by the thousands, and even after two or three hundred rounds in an afternoon, there's hardly a trace of lead. Just a little in the throat area. Bullet hardness match to velocity? Bullet diameter match to barrel diameter? Roughly machined barrel, especially at the throat? Or maybe what's in the barrel is bullet lube. Something is not right. It should not oughtta' do that. If your gun will feed them, it's hard to beat the accuracy of the 200 grain lead swc. That's why match competitors use them by the zillions.

October 12, 2010, 07:12 PM	#10
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	Lewis Lead Remover will remove the wayward lead. Of course, it's easier to not put it there to begin with. Use bullets sized to .452" and lubed with a good lube. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

October 16, 2010, 09:54 AM	#12
swmike Senior Member Join Date: June 25, 2005 Location: Marysville, WA Posts: 670	I used to have a leading problem in my 686. Couldn't resist loading "HOT" with lead bullets. To clean out the lead buildup I used this: Lead Remover IIRC, it used to be available under the name "Wipe Away" and I was able to buy it in actual patches. A couple of strokes through the bore and the lead would come out, sometimes in long threads where it was released from the rifling. Also was great for cleaning the powder burns off the front of the cylinder. They did warn against using it on the bluing though. __________________ My definition of Gun Control--- A steady grip and hitting your target. "In God we trust, all others are suspects." "If I shoot all the ammo I am carrying, either I won't need any more, or more won't be of any help". ____________________________________________

October 16, 2010, 01:31 PM	#13
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,985	It may not be the best way, but a convenient and easy way is to simply use 0000 steel wool. It will NOT harm your rifling (unless you use it 3-4 times a day.) Just stuff a tight wad of it in the chamber or bore, pour in a little solvent, and push it back and forth (or only one way, if you're anal about it.) Finish with patches. Oil. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com