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March 3, 2010, 12:04 AM | #1 |
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1911 Cheap Range Recipe
So, I just bought a new 1911 in .45 acp and was wondering what bullet was reliable, accurate, and cheap to reload, primarily off of midway. I was looking for something in the 200 gr range. Also, what are the differences in getting just a pure lead bullet or a FMJ?
Any assistance is greatly appreciated. |
March 3, 2010, 12:45 AM | #2 | |
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March 3, 2010, 12:54 AM | #3 |
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after every couple hundred rounds the lead will build up enough in the barrel to affect accuracy. The lead will leave microscopic amounts behind as it hits the grooves each time. Make sure to use lead solvent to clean if you use unjacketed bullets.
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March 3, 2010, 01:07 AM | #4 |
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I like 230 FMJ (bulk) with 4.0 gr Bullseye.
If you don't mind lead and your 1911 will cycle semiwadcutters, 200 gr LSWC with 4.0 gr Bullseye. |
March 3, 2010, 01:21 AM | #5 |
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Use a 200 gr HARD cast lead bullet and you will get minimal leading if your barrel isn't rough. I like the laser-cast bullets because they are about 20 on the hardness scale and you need a hard bullet to hold the shallow rifling of the 1911. This bullet with 4.0 of Bullseye, Clays, or 4.2 gr of titegroup will give you a mild and accurate load with almost no leading. Jacketed bullets are slightly more accurate but at double the cost. Most of the guys I shoot bulleseye with use lead.
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March 3, 2010, 01:37 AM | #6 |
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I like Missouri Bullets' 200 gr. RNFP. Its more RN than FP and cycles well. Also hard at 18 bhn so no leading. And best of all . . . cheap. Load over Bullseye or AA#2 and that's about as cheap as you can get with .45 ACP without casting your own.
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March 3, 2010, 02:51 AM | #7 |
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For an inexpensive .45 ACP load, I shoot home cast 200 gr SWCs over 3.5 gr of Bullseye. It's a classic "Mid-range" paper punching load. Lower velocity = improved accuracy, lower recoil and less fouling.
To avoid confusing the newer shooters, it should be noted that when referring to "lead" pistol bullets, it's to contrast them to jacketed or partially jacketed bullets. As mentioned earlier, pure lead is soft and is used by the black powder folks. (I cast with pure lean for my cap and ball revolvers.) For smokeless powder rounds, the lead is alloyed to make it harder. Lead, and lead alloy, bullets can be bothersome at both ends: as you increase velocities the base of the bullet is adversely effected by the burn and the lead nose has the tendency to deform upon impact. The harder the alloy the better the performance, but within limits. Jacketed bullets can be driven at higher velocities and will penetrate deeper than lead. Needless to say they cost more, too. If you don't need higher velocities and/or deeper penetration, why pay more for jacketed bullets? For some 1911-type pistols, shooting mid-range lead bullets may require a lighter recoil spring and feed ramp polishing. |
March 3, 2010, 03:32 AM | #8 |
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Thanks for the reply guys...the info is extremely helpful, keep it coming.
Right now, I'm kinda leaning towards a plated bullet so as to reduce on the lead deposit/cleaning time. Tell me what you think of these Rainier bullets (and their price) I found on midway: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...ber=1050359884 |
March 3, 2010, 11:22 AM | #9 |
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Don't let the comments warning you of leading scare you away from cast bullets. Cast bullets are all I shoot in my handguns, not only in my 1911, but in my Sig P220 and all of my revolvers. I get very minimal leading, if any, and it comes right out with a few brush strokes.
Leading has much less to do with hardness than it does with proper bullet size and barrel quality. Your new 1911 most likely has a barrel that is good quality, and the cast bullets you can order from Midway are properly sized. At the very least I'd give them a try and see how they work. Mike |
March 3, 2010, 02:38 PM | #10 |
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I used a 200SWC hard lead bullet under 6-7gr of Unique with great results.
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March 3, 2010, 02:54 PM | #11 | |
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Many years ago, when I started home casting, I bought a Hoppe's Lead Remover. It removes lead fouling by drawing a brass mesh patch down the barrel. It's in my clearing kit, still unused in the unopened blister package. Conventional brushes and solvents have kept my bores clean. |
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March 3, 2010, 05:29 PM | #12 |
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Mastercast/buy direct
http://www.mastercastbullets.com/home.html"][/URL]
Good bullets, 20 BHN, Good prices Look at site, give Mike a call. Pray and Shoot Daily. Lee Jones(Celtgun) "The very atmosphere of firearms everywhere restrains evil interference - they deserve a place of honor with all that's good." George Washington |
March 3, 2010, 05:59 PM | #13 |
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Rainier bullets are ok / electro plated - coating is a little thin and you'll get some variation maybe plus or minus 4 or 5 grains on a 230gr bullet. Rainier says to load their bullets to a "lead" spec in your manual - so don't go too hot if you use them. The link you attached says a little over 11 cents each ...which is ok ..
The bullet you linked to is a FP / make sure you test your overall length to make sure they feed reliably. Because of feeding issues / I stay with RN bullets mostly. Lead bullets smoke too much / most of my local indoor ranges prohibit shooting lead because of the smoke issue - so I stay away from lead. Berry's is a plated bullet that I like a little better than Rainier / coating is a little thicker. They are usually about the same price as Rainier. A premium bullet that I really like is Montana Gold / its a true jacketed bullet - you order from factory direct in case lots / they work out about $ 0.13 - $0.15 each depending on what grain you like. I carry a .45 acp / so I shoot a bullet similar to what I carry / 230 grain ... |
March 3, 2010, 08:37 PM | #14 |
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The current problem I have with lead now is that my local indoor range does not allow lead bullets, only FMJ's or plated. I am not totally set on Rainier's bullet but it's what I can find at midway. The reason I am purchasing from midway is because I'm placing one big order from there and don't wanna have to pay double shipping.
Thanks! |
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