The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > The Conference Center > General Discussion Forum

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old August 13, 2017, 03:22 AM   #1
Pep in CA
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 3, 2016
Posts: 173
Solvents, Oils, Preservatives. Gun cleaning help, please.

I've used CLP and I've used Balistol as solvents. I also have a bottle of gun oil that the salesman at my gun store told me I should use but I don't really know what it is, other than some sort of gun oil.

I use Rig grease on external metal parts of my long guns, i.e. barrels and receivers. They look great and seem to hold up.

But neither CLP nor Balistol seem to disolve carbon buildup the way I think they should. I have to scrub quite a bit to remove the carbon.

I'm looking for a new solvent. I've never tried Hoppe's #9. Maybe I should.

Your thoughts on solvents?
Pep in CA is offline  
Old August 13, 2017, 06:43 AM   #2
JimPage
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 21, 2010
Location: Rome, NY
Posts: 941
I have used carburater cleaning solvent with good results.
__________________
Jim Page

Cogito, ergo armatum sum
JimPage is offline  
Old August 13, 2017, 08:23 AM   #3
Hal
Senior Member
 
Join Date: October 9, 1998
Location: Ohio USA
Posts: 7,951
I've had great luck with a piece of Lead-Away cloth.

Only on stainless or nickel though.

It will attack bluing.
Hal is offline  
Old August 13, 2017, 08:29 AM   #4
pat701
Senior Member
 
Join Date: November 6, 2005
Location: Beyond OZ
Posts: 305
I have used generic brake cleaner, and Kroil (for lead build up) for 16 years now. Long range, high power shooters use Kroil to clean their long guns. You will have to google up Kroil in firearms to get more info, i don't have the time to write it here. Try both with what you are doing already.
pat701 is offline  
Old August 13, 2017, 08:39 AM   #5
JimPage
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 21, 2010
Location: Rome, NY
Posts: 941
Kroil is good stuff!
__________________
Jim Page

Cogito, ergo armatum sum
JimPage is offline  
Old August 13, 2017, 08:48 AM   #6
Dufus
Senior Member
 
Join Date: December 10, 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 942
Carbon is the most tenacious fouling that you will encounter.

Most commercial carbon cleaners are essentially soap & water, but the commercial cleaners have a few more secret ingredients to justify the cost of the product.

I have used Bore Tech C4 with some success. It has to be applied, allowed to soak, then scrubbed.....with repeated applications.

Also, some commercial automotive solvents such as injector cleaners can remove carbon by the same technique as described with the Bore Tech C4.

You have to be very cautious with the injector cleaners and wear protection and do it outside since those chemicals are volatile.

As I said and to reemphasize, carbon is the toughest of all fouling to remove so you have to work on it to remove it.

IME, Hoppe's #9 will not work on carbon no matter who says what.
Dufus is offline  
Old August 13, 2017, 11:29 AM   #7
50 shooter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: August 6, 2002
Location: SoCal PRK
Posts: 709
I split it up, I like using Boretech Eliminator for copper fouling even though they say it will cut carbon also. For carbon I like using Slip2000 Carbon Killer, used one after another it doesn't take long to clean your barrel.

The thing with Boretech is it's a surfectant and after running some down your barrel, you need to let it sit for a few minutes to do its work. Or you can plug your barrel and let it sit overnight, run a jag down it and check it.
__________________
I see the world thru bloodshot eyes
Streets filled with blood from distant lies
The dogs of war never compromise,
No time for rearranging.
50 shooter is offline  
Old August 13, 2017, 07:45 PM   #8
Mike38
Senior Member
 
Join Date: December 28, 2009
Location: North Central Illinois
Posts: 1,838
Nothing in my gun room other than good old Hoppe's #9 and half a quart of 5w20 synthetic motor oil. Been that way for 20+ years and it will be that way until the day I die.
Mike38 is offline  
Old August 13, 2017, 07:59 PM   #9
JohnKSa
Staff
 
Join Date: February 12, 2001
Location: DFW Area
Posts: 21,078
Hoppes Elite and MPro7 work very well on carbon.
__________________
Did you know that there is a TEXAS State Rifle Association?
JohnKSa is offline  
Old August 13, 2017, 08:11 PM   #10
gwpercle
Senior Member
 
Join Date: November 30, 2012
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 397
Hoppe's #9 is an old school solvent , it does the job but be careful with it on plastic's.
It does have the #9 smell.
Hoppe's Elite Gun cleaner is not as aggressive, removes carbon , is safe for plastic guns and doesn't have much of a smell. However the stuff is pricey .
Now if you are looking for an old school , use on steel guns , cleaner and bore solvent that you can make a gallon of for less than $20.00 it's called " Ed's Red Bore Cleaner" this was developed by C. E. "Ed" Harris , this is my serious cleaner for bore and exterior.

1 part Dexron IV (or later) GM Automatic Transmission Fluid (not synthetic ATF)
1 part deodorized K-1 Kerosene
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits ( low or no odor is best)
1 part Acetone ( some leave out the acetone but it really helps remove carbon)

I buy a quart of each item at wally mart, it makes a gallon for less than $20.00 and will clean like nobody's business. Because of the acetone do not let it stand on wooden stock finishes or some plastics . The stuff doesn't harm a toothbrush , my scrubbing tool of choice .

Use solvents for cleaning and oils for lubrication the Clean Lube Protectants CLP try to do it all but usually fall short. Believe it or not , 1 part ATF + 1 part K-1 kerosene is a good lubricant and a very decent CLP . I call it the poor mans CLP.
Gary
gwpercle is offline  
Old August 13, 2017, 08:38 PM   #11
AzShooter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: June 20, 2006
Location: Surprise, Az.
Posts: 429
M-Pro 7 is my choice as a cleaner, then I use Brian Enos's Slide Glide on the bolt or in the interior of my revolver and some Lucus Oil. For my compensator I use Slip 2000 to get the lead out.
AzShooter is offline  
Old August 14, 2017, 01:23 AM   #12
Pep in CA
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 3, 2016
Posts: 173
As always, thanks for the tips and info.
Pep in CA is offline  
Old August 14, 2017, 01:46 AM   #13
50 shooter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: August 6, 2002
Location: SoCal PRK
Posts: 709
One other thing about Boretech and Slip2000, their products are non hazardous and safe to use indoors.

That's the best part about advances in the gun industry and that includes cleaning products. Don't get me wrong, I like to use some of these other cleaners. Alot of them smell horrendously terrible and will probably knock you out if used in an enclosed space. Not to mention the fact that your significant other won't be happy having to smell it.

Be safe!
__________________
I see the world thru bloodshot eyes
Streets filled with blood from distant lies
The dogs of war never compromise,
No time for rearranging.

Last edited by 50 shooter; August 14, 2017 at 01:53 AM.
50 shooter is offline  
Old August 14, 2017, 04:38 AM   #14
HiBC
Senior Member
 
Join Date: November 13, 2006
Posts: 5,372
I just don't care to go look up sources and quotes right now,whether you believe me or not does not matter.Whatever makes you happy!
Firearms stainless typically contains sulphur for machinability.
Its not happy with chlorinated hydrocarbons such as Brake Clean and Carb Cleaner.
I'll use it for a specific degrease job,like cold blue touch up,but I generally avoid using it. I will not put it in a stainless bore.

I do have a small touch up type spray paint gun,Binks style. For flushing something clean I may use it with lacquer thinner.
HiBC is offline  
Old August 14, 2017, 07:57 AM   #15
FITASC
Senior Member
 
Join Date: December 6, 2014
Posts: 3,777
You want NON-chlorinated brake cleaner - which most of them are now, if you're going that route. A can runs about $3. Be aware, that it is not always friendly to some plastics, but is great for cleaning the bores of rifles and shotguns.
__________________
FITASC: Fédération Internationale de Tir aux Armes Sportives de Chasse. http://www.fitasc.com/uk/home/view
FITASC is offline  
Old August 14, 2017, 09:29 AM   #16
Longhorn1986
Senior Member
 
Join Date: July 12, 2016
Location: Fort Bend County, Texas
Posts: 103
"Hoppe's #9 is an old school solvent , it does the job but be careful with it on plastic's."

And don't use it on nickle-plated firearms. It'll dissolve the copper under the nickle plate.
Longhorn1986 is offline  
Old August 14, 2017, 02:35 PM   #17
cw308
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 2, 2010
Location: Plainview , Long Island NY
Posts: 2,071
Pep in CA
Im a benchrest shooter 308 cal. I to have tried many cleaners , after having a barrel change I asked the gunsmith what they recommended , KG - 1 for carbon & KG - 12 for copper. After using the KG - 1 dry patch then I use the old faithful Hoppe's #9 bore solvent then dry patch . l shoot once a week so I keep my bore dry , no oil . Never shoot high power with oil in the barrel. Also the KG stuff has no oder , can clean indoors with the windows closed.
cw308 is offline  
Old August 14, 2017, 07:08 PM   #18
Pep in CA
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 3, 2016
Posts: 173
It seems, as always, that trial & error is the best method, but one should also consider the advice from those with experience. Such is the case here and I appreciate the advice given.

That being said, I am going to try M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner next. I just ordered some from Amazon.

For a lubricant and protectant, I'm staying with Rig grease. It is the only cleaning product that I can say I'm impressed with so far. Also, although I admire the ingenuity of home-made products, I am not ready to go that route.

I will let you know how well M-Pro 7 works compared to CLP and Ballistol.

Cheers.
Pep in CA is offline  
Old August 14, 2017, 08:39 PM   #19
Dufus
Senior Member
 
Join Date: December 10, 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 942
We all learn by trial.....there are no errors in cleaning other than using the stuff outside of what it was designed for.

Don't mix them up. Dry your barrel before using something else.

I will not use an abrasive cleaner for anything. I will not use something that has ammonia in it.

Pick something and try it, see if it works for you.

Over 55 years I have tried most of them and have settled on a few.
Dufus is offline  
Old August 14, 2017, 09:24 PM   #20
Pep in CA
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 3, 2016
Posts: 173
Bravo, Dufus. I agree. I am willing to try new cleaning products but none that reviewers say cause any damage.

I should elaborate. The carbon build-up I mentioned is actually on my revolver ... where the barrel meets the frame. Neither CLP nor Ballistol dissolved the build up and I eventually used a flat head screwdriver to scape it off. Not good.

Since I've only used CLP or Ballistol on all my guns, I wondered how much carbon residue I've left behind in the barrels of my long guns. I now presume it is a lot but I don't know.

Gotta try something different. Trial and error at best.

Cheers.
Pep in CA is offline  
Old August 14, 2017, 11:59 PM   #21
Scorch
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 13, 2006
Location: Washington state
Posts: 12,939
CLP and Ballistol are both poor excuses for gun solvents. For carbon removal, Hoppe Elite, or Boretech are better at carbon removal, and Gunzilla is a good cleaner/lubricant is you just gotta have it all in one.
__________________
Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs.
But what do I know?
Summit Arms Services
Taylor Machine
Scorch is offline  
Old August 15, 2017, 05:26 AM   #22
Hal
Senior Member
 
Join Date: October 9, 1998
Location: Ohio USA
Posts: 7,951
Quote:
there are no errors in cleaning other than using the stuff outside of what it was designed for.
I see a lot of people jump on the Ed's Red bandwagon & I just shake my head.
It's not like using a product designed for cleaning guns costs a million bucks.

A can of Ballistol lasts me about a year.....
Hal is offline  
Old August 15, 2017, 08:53 AM   #23
Dufus
Senior Member
 
Join Date: December 10, 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 942
^^^^^
Excellent post, Hal. I couldn't agree more.
Dufus is offline  
Old August 15, 2017, 09:20 AM   #24
dahermit
Senior Member
 
Join Date: October 28, 2006
Location: South Central Michigan...near Ohio, Indiana.
Posts: 5,094
Quote:
It's not like using a product designed for cleaning guns costs a million bucks.
It is formulated to be a gun cleaner, designed to sell whether or not it is any more effective at doing such compared to other products and sometimes less so.
dahermit is offline  
Old August 15, 2017, 09:53 AM   #25
P5 Guy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: December 1, 2005
Location: Tampa Bay
Posts: 1,678
Kano Labs Kroil get most all the fouling and lead out for me. If it slides it gets a dab of axel grease, if it spins it gets a drop of lightweight synthetic motor oil.
Storage not at my house, guns get regular range trips and I don't have scores of firearms.
P5 Guy is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:20 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2017 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent: thefiringline.com
Contact Us
Page generated in 0.10701 seconds with 10 queries