Cleaning Cases without Tumbler or Liquid Cleaner

haskins02 · May 16, 2009, 04:45 PM

I plan to get back into reloading but only reload small quantities of .308 Win. I don’t want to buy equipment I really don’t need. What is the best technique to clean these rifle cases without a tumbler or liquid case cleaner? (BTW, my Lee 2nd Edition manual, p. 48 implies using a tumbler is not the best way, but offers no alternatives.) I will be working with new brass I purchase, not picked up at the range. My old Metallic Cartridge Reloading guide indicates using a solvent soaked paper towel on the outside and get the inside of the neck clean by forcing the paper towel in with a screw driver.

But I’d like to know more details, including:
1. Wouldn’t a cloth rag be better than a paper towel?
2. Should I clean cases using this technique BEFORE or AFTER decapping/resizing?
3. Can I use any solvent, including my Breakfree CLP?
4. How much solvent should I put on the towel and then should I wipe it off with a separate clean towel afterwards?
5. Is there a better technique for cleaning the inside of the neck?

Thanks.

Greg

hodaka · May 16, 2009, 05:24 PM

If you are reloading "small quantities" of 308 I would guess a bolt or single shot rifle. For my bolt guns I simply wipe the neck of the cartridges upon extraction with cleaning solvent. I use Ed's Red, but Hoppes or even mineral spirits would work fine. Don't worry about the insides. They don't need to shine to work well. The solvent removes powder residue from the necks. For the other questions.

Paper or cloth, same thing for this use.

Immediately after firing.

As little solvent as you can get by with.

Hope this helps.

BradF · May 16, 2009, 07:21 PM

Before I got a tumbler and was only reloading for one rifle cartridge, I wiped my cartridges with a soft cloth to remove any grit, then after sizing and depriming, I soaked them in a weak vinegar solution overnight to shine them up. IIRC, I used 1 cup of vinegar to 1 gal of water. I rinsed them the next morning, then let them air dry for 3 or 4 days before loading.

Prof Young · May 16, 2009, 11:24 PM

Buy plastic tub with a snap on lid, and some corn cob media from the pet dept. of any store. Put the cases and the media in the tub, and the tub in your car trunk. 50 to 100 miles later your cases will be clean.

tiberius10721 · May 16, 2009, 11:29 PM

I dont even bother with tumbler

rogn · May 17, 2009, 06:51 AM

Be cautious using firearm solvents such as Hoppes as they contain ammonia which damages brass, and can lead to case failure.

firewrench044 · May 17, 2009, 07:07 AM

I clean the case necks with a bore brush on a drill before sizeing
no solvent needed

snuffy · May 17, 2009, 04:17 PM

Quote:

3. Can I use any solvent, including my Breakfree CLP?

CLP, the "L" refers to lubricant. It's not just a solvent. I'd keep away from using any kind of lube on cases. I will kill the powder, it MAY kill the primer. Okay, now I know that primers are very difficult to make inert, BUT some solvents can do it. CLP is a penetrating oil. Cleaner Lubricant, Penatrating oil.

One option not mentioned yet is the lee case spinner. It is part of the lee case trimmer. It holds the case by the head, it can be mounted in a cordless or corded drill, power screwdriver, drill press or use their zip trim. Just hold some steel wool against the case while it's spinning.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=476992

Dr. Strangelove · May 17, 2009, 06:32 PM

I wouldn't worry too much about it. I loaded for years with no tumbler, my brass just wasn't as "pretty" as some of the other folks. If your cases have been on the ground, rinse them off good and let dry. A good bit of the fouling wipes off with the lube after resizing.

Sport45 · May 17, 2009, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Buy plastic tub with a snap on lid, and some corn cob media from the pet dept. of any store. Put the cases and the media in the tub, and the tub in your car trunk. 50 to 100 miles later your cases will be clean.

Sounds like somebody needs new shocks.

Stick_man · May 17, 2009, 10:31 PM

On another forum, I read about somebody making a "sleeve" out of old jeans pant legs. He simply sewed up one end (or used a zip tie) and put some brass in it. No media or liquids needed. Then he closed up the other end with a zip tie and threw it into the dryer with a regular load of laundry. After an hour, they come out nice and clean, ready to go. If there is a concern about getting the clothes dirty, you could probably double sleeve it, but really, nothing gets through denim.

snuffy · May 18, 2009, 01:20 AM

After reading about how well ultrasonic cleaners worked on brass, and gun parts, I finally got one. I considered doing this on a new thread, but I'll post on here.

I did a little search, came up with several methods and solutions for cleaning brass cases. I settled on shooters choice Aqua clean. It's available from midway;

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=311703

It's basically a concentrated heavy duty soap. Instructions say to mix 50-50 with tap water. Here's my cleaner;

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95563

My first job was to clean a trigger group from my Rem 870 shotgun. I mixed about 2/3 quart of water with 2/3 quart of the aqua clean. The tap water was as hot as it comes from my kitchen sink. The cleaner has a heater, so I turned that on. The time can go as high as 480 seconds, or 8 minutes. I had to run two 8 min. cycles, but it was totally clean of all grease and powder residue. Then I deprimed about 70 40 S&W cases I had just shot with cast boolits. I ran them for one 8 min. cycle, they were about half clean. Another 8 min, they were totally clean inside and out! That includes the carbon residue left in the primer pockets!

Next came my M-22 glock. I never have had the lower assembly out/ of, apart in the grip frame. I know there was crud in there the gunscrubber wasn't getting out. The pistol was stripped into the 4 main parts but not disassembled any further and put in the cleaner. Two cycles were needed, but it was totally clean. It even loosened the fouling in the barrel, so all I needed to do is run a dry brush through it.

freakshow10mm · May 18, 2009, 09:47 AM

Ultrasonic cleaners are fun.

For a low cost cleaner, use a drop of Dawn dish soap in some hot water. Soak for 5-10 minutes, shake or swirl it, then rinse under hot water and dry on a towel with a hair dryer.

I did that for several months before I got a tumbler.

In a couple weeks I'll be buying the big Dillon tumbler and won't be using my RCBS tumbler. If you want one, send me your address and I'll ship it to you in a few weeks when my Dillon tumbler comes in. I also have the pan to sift out the media from the brass. I use it over a bucket and put the media back in the tumbler when done. Let me know if you want it.

haskins02 · May 19, 2009, 12:04 PM

Sorry I took so long in responding. Thanks for all of your innovative suggestions.

Greg

May 16, 2009, 04:45 PM	#1
haskins02 Member Join Date: May 10, 2009 Posts: 29	Cleaning Cases without Tumbler or Liquid Cleaner I plan to get back into reloading but only reload small quantities of .308 Win. I don’t want to buy equipment I really don’t need. What is the best technique to clean these rifle cases without a tumbler or liquid case cleaner? (BTW, my Lee 2nd Edition manual, p. 48 implies using a tumbler is not the best way, but offers no alternatives.) I will be working with new brass I purchase, not picked up at the range. My old Metallic Cartridge Reloading guide indicates using a solvent soaked paper towel on the outside and get the inside of the neck clean by forcing the paper towel in with a screw driver. But I’d like to know more details, including: 1. Wouldn’t a cloth rag be better than a paper towel? 2. Should I clean cases using this technique BEFORE or AFTER decapping/resizing? 3. Can I use any solvent, including my Breakfree CLP? 4. How much solvent should I put on the towel and then should I wipe it off with a separate clean towel afterwards? 5. Is there a better technique for cleaning the inside of the neck? Thanks. Greg

May 16, 2009, 11:24 PM	#4
Prof Young Senior Member Join Date: August 21, 2007 Location: Illinois - down state Posts: 2,404	Don't need a tumbler Buy plastic tub with a snap on lid, and some corn cob media from the pet dept. of any store. Put the cases and the media in the tub, and the tub in your car trunk. 50 to 100 miles later your cases will be clean.

May 17, 2009, 06:51 AM	#6
rogn Senior Member Join Date: December 25, 2005 Posts: 203	solvents and ammonia Be cautious using firearm solvents such as Hoppes as they contain ammonia which damages brass, and can lead to case failure.

May 17, 2009, 10:31 PM	#11
Stick_man Senior Member Join Date: October 18, 2008 Location: Salt Lake City, Utah Posts: 241	alternative methods On another forum, I read about somebody making a "sleeve" out of old jeans pant legs. He simply sewed up one end (or used a zip tie) and put some brass in it. No media or liquids needed. Then he closed up the other end with a zip tie and threw it into the dryer with a regular load of laundry. After an hour, they come out nice and clean, ready to go. If there is a concern about getting the clothes dirty, you could probably double sleeve it, but really, nothing gets through denim. Last edited by Stick_man; May 17, 2009 at 10:38 PM.

May 18, 2009, 01:20 AM	#12
snuffy Senior Member Join Date: May 20, 2001 Location: Oshkosh wi. Posts: 3,055	After reading about how well ultrasonic cleaners worked on brass, and gun parts, I finally got one. I considered doing this on a new thread, but I'll post on here. I did a little search, came up with several methods and solutions for cleaning brass cases. I settled on shooters choice Aqua clean. It's available from midway; http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=311703 It's basically a concentrated heavy duty soap. Instructions say to mix 50-50 with tap water. Here's my cleaner; http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95563 My first job was to clean a trigger group from my Rem 870 shotgun. I mixed about 2/3 quart of water with 2/3 quart of the aqua clean. The tap water was as hot as it comes from my kitchen sink. The cleaner has a heater, so I turned that on. The time can go as high as 480 seconds, or 8 minutes. I had to run two 8 min. cycles, but it was totally clean of all grease and powder residue. Then I deprimed about 70 40 S&W cases I had just shot with cast boolits. I ran them for one 8 min. cycle, they were about half clean. Another 8 min, they were totally clean inside and out! That includes the carbon residue left in the primer pockets! Next came my M-22 glock. I never have had the lower assembly out/ of, apart in the grip frame. I know there was crud in there the gunscrubber wasn't getting out. The pistol was stripped into the 4 main parts but not disassembled any further and put in the cleaner. Two cycles were needed, but it was totally clean. It even loosened the fouling in the barrel, so all I needed to do is run a dry brush through it. __________________ The more people I meet, the more I love my dog They're going to get their butts kicked over there this election. How come people can't spell and use words correctly? Last edited by snuffy; May 18, 2009 at 01:29 AM. Reason: clarification

May 16, 2009, 05:24 PM	#2
hodaka Senior Member Join Date: April 23, 2006 Location: South Texas Posts: 2,010	If you are reloading "small quantities" of 308 I would guess a bolt or single shot rifle. For my bolt guns I simply wipe the neck of the cartridges upon extraction with cleaning solvent. I use Ed's Red, but Hoppes or even mineral spirits would work fine. Don't worry about the insides. They don't need to shine to work well. The solvent removes powder residue from the necks. For the other questions. Paper or cloth, same thing for this use. Immediately after firing. As little solvent as you can get by with. Hope this helps.

May 16, 2009, 07:21 PM	#3
BradF Senior Member Join Date: December 7, 2008 Location: NE AL Posts: 172	Before I got a tumbler and was only reloading for one rifle cartridge, I wiped my cartridges with a soft cloth to remove any grit, then after sizing and depriming, I soaked them in a weak vinegar solution overnight to shine them up. IIRC, I used 1 cup of vinegar to 1 gal of water. I rinsed them the next morning, then let them air dry for 3 or 4 days before loading.

May 16, 2009, 11:29 PM	#5
tiberius10721 Junior member Join Date: December 22, 2008 Posts: 228	I dont even bother with tumbler

May 17, 2009, 07:07 AM	#7
firewrench044 Senior Member Join Date: July 9, 2007 Location: Fort Pierce, Florida Posts: 381	I clean the case necks with a bore brush on a drill before sizeing no solvent needed

May 17, 2009, 06:32 PM	#9
Dr. Strangelove Senior Member Join Date: August 1, 2008 Location: Athens, GA Posts: 1,436	I wouldn't worry too much about it. I loaded for years with no tumbler, my brass just wasn't as "pretty" as some of the other folks. If your cases have been on the ground, rinse them off good and let dry. A good bit of the fouling wipes off with the lube after resizing.

May 18, 2009, 09:47 AM	#13
freakshow10mm Junior member Join Date: January 23, 2008 Location: MI Posts: 1,398	Ultrasonic cleaners are fun. For a low cost cleaner, use a drop of Dawn dish soap in some hot water. Soak for 5-10 minutes, shake or swirl it, then rinse under hot water and dry on a towel with a hair dryer. I did that for several months before I got a tumbler. In a couple weeks I'll be buying the big Dillon tumbler and won't be using my RCBS tumbler. If you want one, send me your address and I'll ship it to you in a few weeks when my Dillon tumbler comes in. I also have the pan to sift out the media from the brass. I use it over a bucket and put the media back in the tumbler when done. Let me know if you want it.

May 19, 2009, 12:04 PM	#14
haskins02 Member Join Date: May 10, 2009 Posts: 29	Sorry I took so long in responding. Thanks for all of your innovative suggestions. Greg