Colt 1861 Navy - Page 2

James K · January 9, 2014, 11:24 PM

That is more "unfinished" than any I have ever seen. You have a lot of work ahead. I think I would forget the files and call in the Dremel tool, if you think you could use one.

Jim

Doc Hoy · January 9, 2014, 11:40 PM

That frame needs an awful lot of work.

Send me a PM and lets talk about this.

Maggs · January 10, 2014, 05:43 AM

James and Doc,

Thanks for the advice. Doc, you have a PM.

In the mean time... I'll start looking at more aggressive tools.

Maggs

Doc Hoy · January 14, 2014, 10:40 AM

Your frame is in the mail Priority as of yesterday noon.

Maggs · January 14, 2014, 09:46 PM

Thanks Doc! I'm looking forward to comparing frames.

I did assemble/disassemble the Colt ( a couple of times) this weekend (minus the hand&hand spring assembly).

In an amazing, almost slow motion event, I dropped the Barrel Wedge screw... and it bounced around my shop room and is LOST (for the time being). It might be easier for me to purchase a new one rather than go on a search for this screw.

Attached are a couple of photos. I had the Barrel Wedge Screw in photo DSCF0017, however in the accidental loss occurred shortly after that photo.

I'll have to show the family all the progress that I've made this weekend

Thanks everyone... I'm starting to make some progress.

Maggs

Rigmarol · January 14, 2014, 11:40 PM

Maggs, FYI, the wedge screw you lost doesn't have to be removed for any reason other than the pleasure of the owner. I'm pretty sure it is only there to help prevent the loss of the wedge when pulled out enough to remove the barrel. The wedge doesn't have to be fully extracted either.

Hope that helps.

Maggs · January 15, 2014, 05:37 AM

Thanks Rigmarol,

Now that I'm looking at it, I agree. I'll continue working on the kit and searching the "black hole" for the screw.

Maggs

Rigmarol · January 15, 2014, 12:55 PM

I have a one of those "Pick up" tools that you squeeze and the "claw" can be used to pick up stuff I drop... I super glued a strong magnet to it for screws. My eyes can't see them unless I'm on all fours so I just "sweep" the floor and usually find screws I can't otherwise see. (along with all the other crap I didn't even notice I lost!)

Good luck.

Maggs · January 16, 2014, 12:28 AM

Thanks Doc the frame came today!

Attached are some pictures. I was able to get a measurement from the frame that you sent compared to the frame that I am working on.

I have to make the slot more than .6" longer. I'm thinking that a vice/Drill Press is in order. and I'll have to do some additional filing after that.

Pic DSCF019 shows the hand slot from the front of the frame.

Pic DSCF0023 shows the depth measurement of the handslot from the bottom of the frame to the top of the handslot

Pic DSCF0025 shows the depth measurement of the handslot from the bottom of MY frame to where the machining STOPPED creating a handslot.

Any suggestions on how to proceed with the vice/drill press.

1.662 (Doc Frame)
1.055 (my current frame)
------
0.607"

That seems like a huge amount, but I can work at it slowly and make it work (I believe).

Thanks,

Maggs

Maggs · January 16, 2014, 12:30 AM

Wahoo! I found the screw! From what I can tell, I have all the pieces.

Maggs

Doc Hoy · January 16, 2014, 06:08 AM

Your photo provides excellent evidence of the forces applied in a Colt revolver which are focused primarily on the ring on the recoil shield.

If I were you, I'd keep that photo and then trot it out when someone talks about heavy loads in a brass frame revolver.

maillemaker · January 16, 2014, 04:36 PM

I agree. In fact, I think you should make a separate post using that picture and make it a sticky.

Steve

maillemaker · January 16, 2014, 04:41 PM

I went ahead and made the post here:

http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...61#post5743061

It would be nice if it was a sticky.

Steve

Maggs · January 18, 2014, 02:09 PM

After reviewing my dilemma with the frame and drilling out the hand slot.

Is it possible to remove the arbor from my frame and drill from the front of the frame?

OR,

should I attempt to drill the .607 from the bottom of the frame and leave the arbor in place?

My father-in-law (retired master tool and die maker) suggested that I remove the arbor and drill from the face. Either way, he said that it will be a lot of work and GO SLOW.

I'm still evaluating the best way for me to work through this..

Thanks for your thoughts.

Maggs

Maggs · January 19, 2014, 06:12 PM

After looking at it some more, I don't think that I can remove the arbor. It appears to be pinned from the back?

My solution is to work from the bottom. If I can't make it work, I'll pursue finding a replacement frame.

I'll post results as I go.

Maggs

Gaucho Gringo · January 21, 2014, 08:41 PM

Your project looks like a lot of work and you have more patience than me putting the gun together. I read a long time ago and I don't know how much truth is it but from what it said that the kits were made up of reject parts that the manufacturers did not want to use. From what I have read in your posts if the manufacturers had to put that much hand fitting into each gun they produced they would have to sell it for more wholesale than the retail price we pay for them. And the kit price is not that much less than what you can buy a fully functional revolver for. I am sorry if I am raining on your parade, it is not my intention. Good luck on the project.

Maggs · January 21, 2014, 11:00 PM

Thanks Gaucho,

Not THAT much patience... last night, I tried a Dremel tool. I quit before I REALLY made a mess of things.

Today, I took both frames to the local gunsmith and got an estimate for how much to mill out hand slot. His price and solution seemed reasonable enough to me. So, I left it there. If it gets hosed up, I'll pursue buying a frame from a source that Doc provided.

I'll post more when I get the frame back. Probably 4 weeks or so...

Maggs

Captainkirk · January 21, 2014, 11:27 PM

Maggs, there is a guy selling NEW brass Pietta frames on GB starting bidding at $15.00 on each one. I won one for $15.00 after watching the first ones getting up in the $40.00-50.00 range. Last time I checked he was still throwing them up for auction.

Doc Hoy · January 22, 2014, 04:29 AM

That (15.00) is a good price and actually a person who really needs a new frame might be happy to pay 40.00 to 50.00.

Pietta won't fit everything but if a person knows it is right, your source is a good one.

I personally have never shot an arbor loose but I did have one loosen up due to a chain fire. The chamber just ccw of battery went off and smeared lead all over the barrel lug. I think it was a loose cap because I pinched them on that day, a practice which I vowed never to repeat.

I call that revolver my 666 Sheriff's model because I think it is haunted by the devil.

It is a brass frame .36 1851 pattern barrel in Sheriff's length from C.O.M. I bought it cheap. The first three shots I ever fired from it all went into a four inch tree at about 15 yards hand held. I can't shoot any other revolver I own like that (I am not much of a shot.) Then I took it to the range expecting to repeat the performance and couldn't get it as close. That was the day that my first and only chain fire ever took place. I was very careful with sealing the chambers. I know the bullets fit right. But I pinched the caps.

When I pulled the pistol apart the arbor was loose. I tightened it up as best I could be I never shot it again. When I tell the story, I always end by saying that the serial number is 666, but of course that is a stretch.

Captainkirk · January 22, 2014, 11:41 PM

Doc, I don't know where this guy is getting them, but he must have hit the mother lode somewhere. He always seems to have one or more on GunBroker every single week.

Maggs · March 17, 2014, 05:11 AM

Hey guys,

I'm still working on the project. I took both frames to my local smith. He was going to machine my frame. In the meantime, he told me that if I found one, to contact him and he would pull it out of the work queue.
I lost out on a bid on GB for a frame, and there haven't been any frames coming up for auction.

My nephew in Kentucky has been looking for me also. He found one and picked it up for me. I'll pick it up in the second week of April when we meet over spring break.

So, still kicking the project around.

Thanks, I'll keep you posted.

Maggs

ZVP · March 22, 2014, 03:29 PM

FWIW,
I have a Piettia Police'62 version (actually just a regular '62 with a short bbl and fluted cylinder) and a Uberti '51 London.
I swear, the London is lighter than the Piettia! Especially up front. Even with the short barrel, the 'Piettia is barrel heavy.
The old Octagon barrel isn't just graceful, it's lighter!
Even so, the Piettia Police handles real nice and is quick pointing. I'm no quick draw so I can't evaluate that...
ZVP

January 9, 2014, 11:40 PM	#27
Doc Hoy Senior Member Join Date: October 24, 2008 Location: Naples, Fl Posts: 5,440	Jim is on That frame needs an awful lot of work. Send me a PM and lets talk about this. __________________ Seek truth. Relax. Take a breath.

January 10, 2014, 05:43 AM	#28
Maggs Member Join Date: December 28, 2013 Location: Crump, MI Posts: 23	Thanks guys! James and Doc, Thanks for the advice. Doc, you have a PM. In the mean time... I'll start looking at more aggressive tools. Maggs

January 14, 2014, 10:40 AM	#29
Doc Hoy Senior Member Join Date: October 24, 2008 Location: Naples, Fl Posts: 5,440	Maggs, Your frame is in the mail Priority as of yesterday noon. __________________ Seek truth. Relax. Take a breath.

January 16, 2014, 06:08 AM	#36
Doc Hoy Senior Member Join Date: October 24, 2008 Location: Naples, Fl Posts: 5,440	Parenthetically...... Your photo provides excellent evidence of the forces applied in a Colt revolver which are focused primarily on the ring on the recoil shield. If I were you, I'd keep that photo and then trot it out when someone talks about heavy loads in a brass frame revolver. __________________ Seek truth. Relax. Take a breath.

January 18, 2014, 02:09 PM	#39
Maggs Member Join Date: December 28, 2013 Location: Crump, MI Posts: 23	Now I have a question After reviewing my dilemma with the frame and drilling out the hand slot. Is it possible to remove the arbor from my frame and drill from the front of the frame? OR, should I attempt to drill the .607 from the bottom of the frame and leave the arbor in place? My father-in-law (retired master tool and die maker) suggested that I remove the arbor and drill from the face. Either way, he said that it will be a lot of work and GO SLOW. I'm still evaluating the best way for me to work through this.. Thanks for your thoughts. Maggs

January 9, 2014, 11:24 PM	#26
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	That is more "unfinished" than any I have ever seen. You have a lot of work ahead. I think I would forget the files and call in the Dremel tool, if you think you could use one. Jim

January 14, 2014, 11:40 PM	#31
Rigmarol Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2005 Location: Southern California Posts: 344	Maggs, FYI, the wedge screw you lost doesn't have to be removed for any reason other than the pleasure of the owner. I'm pretty sure it is only there to help prevent the loss of the wedge when pulled out enough to remove the barrel. The wedge doesn't have to be fully extracted either. Hope that helps.

January 15, 2014, 05:37 AM	#32
Maggs Member Join Date: December 28, 2013 Location: Crump, MI Posts: 23	Thanks Rigmarol, Now that I'm looking at it, I agree. I'll continue working on the kit and searching the "black hole" for the screw. Maggs

January 15, 2014, 12:55 PM	#33
Rigmarol Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2005 Location: Southern California Posts: 344	I have a one of those "Pick up" tools that you squeeze and the "claw" can be used to pick up stuff I drop... I super glued a strong magnet to it for screws. My eyes can't see them unless I'm on all fours so I just "sweep" the floor and usually find screws I can't otherwise see. (along with all the other crap I didn't even notice I lost!) Good luck.

January 16, 2014, 12:30 AM	#35
Maggs Member Join Date: December 28, 2013 Location: Crump, MI Posts: 23	Wahoo! I found the screw! From what I can tell, I have all the pieces. Maggs

January 16, 2014, 04:36 PM	#37
maillemaker Senior Member Join Date: August 30, 2010 Posts: 1,635	I agree. In fact, I think you should make a separate post using that picture and make it a sticky. Steve

January 16, 2014, 04:41 PM	#38
maillemaker Senior Member Join Date: August 30, 2010 Posts: 1,635	I went ahead and made the post here: http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...61#post5743061 It would be nice if it was a sticky. Steve

January 19, 2014, 06:12 PM	#40
Maggs Member Join Date: December 28, 2013 Location: Crump, MI Posts: 23	After looking at it some more, I don't think that I can remove the arbor. It appears to be pinned from the back? My solution is to work from the bottom. If I can't make it work, I'll pursue finding a replacement frame. I'll post results as I go. Maggs

January 21, 2014, 08:41 PM	#41
Gaucho Gringo Senior Member Join Date: May 17, 2007 Location: Vancouver, WA Posts: 366	Your project looks like a lot of work and you have more patience than me putting the gun together. I read a long time ago and I don't know how much truth is it but from what it said that the kits were made up of reject parts that the manufacturers did not want to use. From what I have read in your posts if the manufacturers had to put that much hand fitting into each gun they produced they would have to sell it for more wholesale than the retail price we pay for them. And the kit price is not that much less than what you can buy a fully functional revolver for. I am sorry if I am raining on your parade, it is not my intention. Good luck on the project. __________________ 357 Taurus Gaucho, 22 Heritage RR, 2-Pietta 1858 44 NMA Remingtons, Pietta, Euroarms & ASM 36 1851 Navies, 31 Uberti 1849, 12 ga H&R Topper, 16 Ga Western Field, 43 Spanish Remington Rolling Block, 44 ASM Colt Walker, High Point C9 9mm, Winchester 1906 22, Rossi 62 22 rifle, Uberti 1860, H&A & IJ 32 S&W BreakTop, 36 Euroarms 1858, 32 H&R 04, 22mag NAA SS BP revolver, .44 Rodgers & Spencer, IJ 38 S&W BreakTop, IJ 22 Sealed 8

January 21, 2014, 11:00 PM	#42
Maggs Member Join Date: December 28, 2013 Location: Crump, MI Posts: 23	Thanks Gaucho, Not THAT much patience... last night, I tried a Dremel tool. I quit before I REALLY made a mess of things. Today, I took both frames to the local gunsmith and got an estimate for how much to mill out hand slot. His price and solution seemed reasonable enough to me. So, I left it there. If it gets hosed up, I'll pursue buying a frame from a source that Doc provided. I'll post more when I get the frame back. Probably 4 weeks or so... Maggs

January 21, 2014, 11:27 PM	#43
Captainkirk Senior Member Join Date: September 21, 2012 Posts: 144	Maggs, there is a guy selling NEW brass Pietta frames on GB starting bidding at $15.00 on each one. I won one for $15.00 after watching the first ones getting up in the $40.00-50.00 range. Last time I checked he was still throwing them up for auction. __________________ "You gonna pull those pistols, or whistle Dixie?"

January 22, 2014, 04:29 AM	#44
Doc Hoy Senior Member Join Date: October 24, 2008 Location: Naples, Fl Posts: 5,440	Skipper... That (15.00) is a good price and actually a person who really needs a new frame might be happy to pay 40.00 to 50.00. Pietta won't fit everything but if a person knows it is right, your source is a good one. I personally have never shot an arbor loose but I did have one loosen up due to a chain fire. The chamber just ccw of battery went off and smeared lead all over the barrel lug. I think it was a loose cap because I pinched them on that day, a practice which I vowed never to repeat. I call that revolver my 666 Sheriff's model because I think it is haunted by the devil. It is a brass frame .36 1851 pattern barrel in Sheriff's length from C.O.M. I bought it cheap. The first three shots I ever fired from it all went into a four inch tree at about 15 yards hand held. I can't shoot any other revolver I own like that (I am not much of a shot.) Then I took it to the range expecting to repeat the performance and couldn't get it as close. That was the day that my first and only chain fire ever took place. I was very careful with sealing the chambers. I know the bullets fit right. But I pinched the caps. When I pulled the pistol apart the arbor was loose. I tightened it up as best I could be I never shot it again. When I tell the story, I always end by saying that the serial number is 666, but of course that is a stretch. __________________ Seek truth. Relax. Take a breath.

January 22, 2014, 11:41 PM	#45
Captainkirk Senior Member Join Date: September 21, 2012 Posts: 144	Doc, I don't know where this guy is getting them, but he must have hit the mother lode somewhere. He always seems to have one or more on GunBroker every single week. __________________ "You gonna pull those pistols, or whistle Dixie?"

March 17, 2014, 05:11 AM	#46
Maggs Member Join Date: December 28, 2013 Location: Crump, MI Posts: 23	Hey guys, I'm still working on the project. I took both frames to my local smith. He was going to machine my frame. In the meantime, he told me that if I found one, to contact him and he would pull it out of the work queue. I lost out on a bid on GB for a frame, and there haven't been any frames coming up for auction. My nephew in Kentucky has been looking for me also. He found one and picked it up for me. I'll pick it up in the second week of April when we meet over spring break. So, still kicking the project around. Thanks, I'll keep you posted. Maggs

March 22, 2014, 03:29 PM	#47
ZVP Senior Member Join Date: June 20, 2009 Posts: 1,102	FWIW, I have a Piettia Police'62 version (actually just a regular '62 with a short bbl and fluted cylinder) and a Uberti '51 London. I swear, the London is lighter than the Piettia! Especially up front. Even with the short barrel, the 'Piettia is barrel heavy. The old Octagon barrel isn't just graceful, it's lighter! Even so, the Piettia Police handles real nice and is quick pointing. I'm no quick draw so I can't evaluate that... ZVP