A long time ruger problem

KEYBEAR · April 14, 2018, 11:35 AM

I have shot Ruger Blackhawk and Super Blackhawks for years all in 44 Mag .
All the Ruger Revolvers have the same problem the ejector rod housing screw .
The screw will not stay tight or the screw will shear off . I have used Lock-Tight both Blue and Red I have glued the housing to the barrel total fail .
The only one that ever stayed on was welded on . I makes no difference Old model three screw or new model .

Question is have anyone got a fix .

Hanshi · April 14, 2018, 04:34 PM

I've owned a few and still own a BH .44mag. I never had that problem crop up with mine. I'm at a loss as to the remedy of the ER housing. I was going to suggest Lock Tight but you've already tried that with poor results. Maybe someone else on the forum can be of help.

KEYBEAR · April 14, 2018, 06:25 PM

I bought my first Super Blackhawk in about 1967 had the same problem in a year or two . I have used Lock Tight Glued the housing on and took care to check the screw . This Ruger I am working on now has had 4/5 new screws put in the ejector housing in the last year or two . I do love the Super Blackhawks but some time I hate them .

Mobuck · April 14, 2018, 07:51 PM

You can snug up the EH screw and then tighten a hose clamp around it. Can't holster it but it doesn't let go.

Dufus · April 14, 2018, 08:34 PM

I got my first SBH in 1974. Shot it a lot and all the screws were coming loose, grip frame and ejector.

I finally cleaned the screws with acetone and gave a dose of blue locktite to all the screws.

The grip frame has held up good and I had to retreat the ejector screw one more time after cleaning with the acetone.

You have to acetone the threaded holes as well as the screws to get any oil residue out of them.

KEYBEAR · April 14, 2018, 08:45 PM

Yes I have cleaned the screw and screw holes And now use Red lock tight .
Now I just shear the screw head off.

Scorch · April 14, 2018, 08:49 PM

The threaded holes are very shallow from the factory, and either strip or the screw strips because the screw tightens against the bottom of the hole. We have fixed several over the years. Mill a round recess into the barrel, turn a small threaded 4140 insert with a short "nipple" raised up that increases the number of threads the screw can grab. Works wonderfully.

Dufus · April 14, 2018, 09:09 PM

The red locktite is almost akin to using epoxy. It does not break loose without applying heat.

I meant to mention above that if you use acetone to degrease, do it outside away from any ignition source. Acetone lights up easily and nothing to mess around with indoors.

dahermit · April 14, 2018, 09:50 PM

In the late sixties, I had a .44 magnum Blackhawk (pre-SuperBlackhawk). The problem I had was the ejector housing screw was screwed-in to a threaded sleeve that was press-fit into the barrel. That sleeve would loosen and come out with the screw. After the local gunsmith trying soft solder (to maintain the Bluing), it again came loose and I finally had him Silver Solder it in place (messing up the Bluing). It never came loose again but if I understand correctly, the later models had a screw that was threaded into the barrel itself...no sleeve.

KEYBEAR · April 15, 2018, 07:25 AM

I only buy older Rugers with the Ejector housing riding on a Lug in the barrel . The Super Blackhawk I shoot now is a Three Screw with the lug still a Problem . Over the years I have bought a number of Revolvers of different makes to try finding one that will not fall apart (still looking) I shoot a lot of lead 240gr. with 10.2 gr. of Unique not a real big load around 950 fps . To date I have broke a Freedom Arms - a Magnum Research - Thomason Center single shot and a boat load of Rugers all in 44 Mag . I have the Rugers that I shoot coated so no thought of the finish .

hdbiker · April 15, 2018, 09:10 AM

FUNNY, I was shooting my Super Blackhawk .44 one day at the range and I went to extract the empty's and everything was gone. Ejector rod housing, screw, rod and spring. I looked on the ground and found the housing with the screw still in it GREAT. A little more searching I also found the spring and rod. I range friend lent me his cleaning kit and after a while I was shooting again. Moral of this story is ck your gun screws !!!!!!!!!!!!! hdbiker

pete2 · April 15, 2018, 10:40 AM

I use duct tape on mine.

Nathan · April 15, 2018, 11:20 AM

I wonder if rockset would be a better choice and tightening with a torque wrench.....not sure how many inch pounds....I'm guessing 15 in lbs.

Pathfinder45 · April 15, 2018, 11:30 PM

I cleaned the threads thoroughly with acetone and used blue loctite and that's been working a long time on my stainless Vaquero. But it's merely a 45 Colt, though I do run some warm loads through it from time to time; warm, but not crazy-hot.

KEYBEAR · April 16, 2018, 07:30 PM

Pathfinder45
I have shot 44 Mag for a long time over 50 years now . I do love the Super Blackhawks but i can get real frustrated . I do not shoot a lot of hot loads most of the time 240gr. lead coated and I do about a 1,000 a month. All With 10.2 gr. unique about 950fps

Pathfinder45 · April 16, 2018, 08:43 PM

Well, KEYBEAR, it sounds like you are doing a heck of a lot of shooting. I shoot my Vaquero as much as I can, but it's likely a fraction of what you are doing. Still, I probably have 10,000 rounds through this one....
Trying to be helpful, I'm wondering if my stainless screw has a greater shear-strength than a blued steel screw?
Since I haven't had such a bad problem with this issue, I'm guessing that you are still running quite a few very hot loads though the gun?
Even so, a Super-Blackhawk is supposed to take full-power 44 magnum ammo....
Another alternative idea: How about have a gunsmith drill and tap the hole to a slightly larger screw that can be had in grade 8 or 10 alloy tool-steel?
It all must be frustrating, but it's hard to feel terribly sorry for someone that gets to go shooting a whole lot more than me.

Good luck with it and let us know what solution works out best.

Pathfinder45 · April 17, 2018, 12:53 AM

So now I'm wondering if the threads in the hole are worn and contributing to a problem that gets progressively worse....
Maybe try using JB Weld in place of loctite?

KEYBEAR · April 17, 2018, 07:05 AM

Pathfinder45 I think the steel screws are a little less likely to brake not sure if that screw it stainless or steel in all rugers . The Threads are good that is not the problem .
Also I shoot lead out of this gun very little hot loads . I have a plate rack in the back yard I use every day (got tired of paper targets) if it is not raining or cold as hell . If I get real bored I shoot out of my the truck window with the heat going .

Pathfinder45 · April 17, 2018, 11:30 PM

Keybear, are you keeping track of how many rounds are fired before each screw breaks? I know it sounds ridiculous.... I know I wouldn't bother counting, at least not until it became a recurring problem, which it is for you. It must be perplexing knowing that for many of us, it has simply never happened.
I'm using 250-255 grain bullets for at least 95% of the rounds fired through my Vaquero. My standard woods load is 255 grain cast at 1075 fps. I never go below 840 in my lightest target loads; usually I'm at 950 and above. Occasionally I still get in the neighborhood of 1200 fps and for years now, I don't go any higher. I've had this revolver for about 21 years. In the beginning, screws would loosen with use. Acetone and loctite fixed that, and I have never broken the ejector housing screw, though it was the primary screw to loosen with use. Mysterious that you are having this problem while I am not.
You must be firing a heck of a lot of rounds..... but that's what it was made for.

KEYBEAR · April 18, 2018, 07:02 AM

Pathfinder45 A local friend is a welder and dose stainless steam pipes only in about 198? I bought a new Ruger in stainless . I had this person sweat the ejector housing on before I ever shot this Ruger 44 mag . I shot the gun until the cylinder failed . (Hair line cracks) . I have been a reloader and shooter over 50 years and all I shot was the 44Mag . I do not know the round count on this SBH but over 12,000 last year just in powder used .

**4V50 Gary** · April 18, 2018, 07:14 AM

Keybear - your cylinder cracked? Can you post pictures of it? Has it been sent to Ruger for replacement?

KEYBEAR · April 18, 2018, 08:25 AM

4V50 Gary That Ruger was Traded and sent back to Ruger years ago . Asfor the cracks the face of the cylinder had spider web cracks all across . It never looked to be a big problem and if it was never cleaned it was fine . Ruger did replace it with a new revolver funny they could not get it apart .

Ricklin · April 18, 2018, 09:26 AM

Keybear,
There are a lot of different anaerobic sealant products from Locktite. Have a look at their website and technical documentation for the products.

As mentioned previously, clean is critical for Locktite. Remove every trace of oil and or grease from the threads of both the fastener, and of course the threaded hole.

Typical threads are designed for 75 % engagement. In addition to "locking" the threads the proper grade of Locktite can strengthen the threaded fastener by filling in that 25% space between the threads.

Your nose is your friend when it's time to remove a screw where Loctite has been used. Esp. for firearms I use a sacrificial screwdriver bit that fits the screw very closely. Use a small torch to heat the sacrificial bit to transfer heat to the screw itself. A sweet odor will be your cue quickly switch bits and loosen the screw. Most times the hot sacrificial bit is still strong enough to turn the screw.

But then you killed a Freedom arms and a Contender....I can't even think of any handguns that are stronger than those.

RC20 · April 18, 2018, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Yes I have cleaned the screw and screw holes And now use Red lock tight .
Now I just shear the screw head off.

I will add in, many cleaners are oil based (solvents) - they do not remove all the oil as they leave oil.

Lockties has some stuff, acetone works, the old Tri Chlore works (hard to find as its now environmentally safe - it still cleans but has to be dried aka Electrical Cleaner or Brake Cleaner.

Same stuff you use (tiny vial) to clean the windhiedl off to attach your rear view mirror.

Fundamentally the screws are too soft. Going to plastic regions and loosening. Probably unique so you can't get a grade 8.

Start a claim with Rugrer and have all follow up that have the problem.

KEYBEAR · April 21, 2018, 08:49 PM

A little back round . I have loved to shoot all my life started when I was very small .
Yes I have bought a lot of guns but got really into it the 1984 . In 84 I had a kidney transplant and was told by the doctor life as you have been doing it is over . That is when I really got to shooting a lot . I spent my first year after the transplant shooting and shooting every day . I shot six or seven day a week even in the winter all 44 mag mostly lead . I have been retired over ten years have a range in the back yard and use it every day . I shoot steel got tired of paper targets and shoot most all winter . Yes I have broke a lot of guns I shot the chamber out of three Thomson Center 44 Mag barrels in a year . Having tried about every Revolver in 44 Mag The Ruger is the one if I could keep it shooting . I will be 71 years old this year I still have very good eyes and will shoot until I can,t

April 14, 2018, 11:35 AM	#1
KEYBEAR Senior Member Join Date: January 11, 2012 Location: Indiana Posts: 1,059	A long time ruger problem I have shot Ruger Blackhawk and Super Blackhawks for years all in 44 Mag . All the Ruger Revolvers have the same problem the ejector rod housing screw . The screw will not stay tight or the screw will shear off . I have used Lock-Tight both Blue and Red I have glued the housing to the barrel total fail . The only one that ever stayed on was welded on . I makes no difference Old model three screw or new model . Question is have anyone got a fix .

April 14, 2018, 04:34 PM	#2
Hanshi Senior Member Join Date: April 23, 2017 Posts: 239	I've owned a few and still own a BH .44mag. I never had that problem crop up with mine. I'm at a loss as to the remedy of the ER housing. I was going to suggest Lock Tight but you've already tried that with poor results. Maybe someone else on the forum can be of help. __________________ Young guys should hang out with old guys; old guys know stuff.

April 14, 2018, 08:49 PM	#7
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	The threaded holes are very shallow from the factory, and either strip or the screw strips because the screw tightens against the bottom of the hole. We have fixed several over the years. Mill a round recess into the barrel, turn a small threaded 4140 insert with a short "nipple" raised up that increases the number of threads the screw can grab. Works wonderfully. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

April 18, 2018, 07:14 AM	#21
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,832	Keybear - your cylinder cracked? Can you post pictures of it? Has it been sent to Ruger for replacement? __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

April 18, 2018, 09:26 AM	#23
Ricklin Senior Member Join Date: February 22, 2008 Location: SW Washington state Posts: 2,011	Research Keybear, There are a lot of different anaerobic sealant products from Locktite. Have a look at their website and technical documentation for the products. As mentioned previously, clean is critical for Locktite. Remove every trace of oil and or grease from the threads of both the fastener, and of course the threaded hole. Typical threads are designed for 75 % engagement. In addition to "locking" the threads the proper grade of Locktite can strengthen the threaded fastener by filling in that 25% space between the threads. Your nose is your friend when it's time to remove a screw where Loctite has been used. Esp. for firearms I use a sacrificial screwdriver bit that fits the screw very closely. Use a small torch to heat the sacrificial bit to transfer heat to the screw itself. A sweet odor will be your cue quickly switch bits and loosen the screw. Most times the hot sacrificial bit is still strong enough to turn the screw. But then you killed a Freedom arms and a Contender....I can't even think of any handguns that are stronger than those. __________________ ricklin Freedom is not free

April 14, 2018, 06:25 PM	#3
KEYBEAR Senior Member Join Date: January 11, 2012 Location: Indiana Posts: 1,059	I bought my first Super Blackhawk in about 1967 had the same problem in a year or two . I have used Lock Tight Glued the housing on and took care to check the screw . This Ruger I am working on now has had 4/5 new screws put in the ejector housing in the last year or two . I do love the Super Blackhawks but some time I hate them .

April 14, 2018, 07:51 PM	#4
Mobuck Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2010 Posts: 6,846	You can snug up the EH screw and then tighten a hose clamp around it. Can't holster it but it doesn't let go.

April 14, 2018, 08:34 PM	#5
Dufus Senior Member Join Date: December 10, 2014 Posts: 1,965	I got my first SBH in 1974. Shot it a lot and all the screws were coming loose, grip frame and ejector. I finally cleaned the screws with acetone and gave a dose of blue locktite to all the screws. The grip frame has held up good and I had to retreat the ejector screw one more time after cleaning with the acetone. You have to acetone the threaded holes as well as the screws to get any oil residue out of them.

April 14, 2018, 08:45 PM	#6
KEYBEAR Senior Member Join Date: January 11, 2012 Location: Indiana Posts: 1,059	Yes I have cleaned the screw and screw holes And now use Red lock tight . Now I just shear the screw head off.

April 14, 2018, 09:09 PM	#8
Dufus Senior Member Join Date: December 10, 2014 Posts: 1,965	The red locktite is almost akin to using epoxy. It does not break loose without applying heat. I meant to mention above that if you use acetone to degrease, do it outside away from any ignition source. Acetone lights up easily and nothing to mess around with indoors.

April 14, 2018, 09:50 PM	#9
dahermit Senior Member Join Date: October 28, 2006 Location: South Central Michigan...near Posts: 6,501	In the late sixties, I had a .44 magnum Blackhawk (pre-SuperBlackhawk). The problem I had was the ejector housing screw was screwed-in to a threaded sleeve that was press-fit into the barrel. That sleeve would loosen and come out with the screw. After the local gunsmith trying soft solder (to maintain the Bluing), it again came loose and I finally had him Silver Solder it in place (messing up the Bluing). It never came loose again but if I understand correctly, the later models had a screw that was threaded into the barrel itself...no sleeve.

April 15, 2018, 07:25 AM	#10
KEYBEAR Senior Member Join Date: January 11, 2012 Location: Indiana Posts: 1,059	I only buy older Rugers with the Ejector housing riding on a Lug in the barrel . The Super Blackhawk I shoot now is a Three Screw with the lug still a Problem . Over the years I have bought a number of Revolvers of different makes to try finding one that will not fall apart (still looking) I shoot a lot of lead 240gr. with 10.2 gr. of Unique not a real big load around 950 fps . To date I have broke a Freedom Arms - a Magnum Research - Thomason Center single shot and a boat load of Rugers all in 44 Mag . I have the Rugers that I shoot coated so no thought of the finish .

April 15, 2018, 09:10 AM	#11
hdbiker Senior Member Join Date: December 19, 2012 Posts: 297	FUNNY, I was shooting my Super Blackhawk .44 one day at the range and I went to extract the empty's and everything was gone. Ejector rod housing, screw, rod and spring. I looked on the ground and found the housing with the screw still in it GREAT. A little more searching I also found the spring and rod. I range friend lent me his cleaning kit and after a while I was shooting again. Moral of this story is ck your gun screws !!!!!!!!!!!!! hdbiker

April 15, 2018, 10:40 AM	#12
pete2 Senior Member Join Date: May 15, 2012 Location: Texas Posts: 2,566	I use duct tape on mine.

April 15, 2018, 11:20 AM	#13
Nathan Senior Member Join Date: July 1, 2001 Posts: 6,327	I wonder if rockset would be a better choice and tightening with a torque wrench.....not sure how many inch pounds....I'm guessing 15 in lbs.

April 15, 2018, 11:30 PM	#14
Pathfinder45 Senior Member Join Date: January 7, 2008 Posts: 3,224	I cleaned the threads thoroughly with acetone and used blue loctite and that's been working a long time on my stainless Vaquero. But it's merely a 45 Colt, though I do run some warm loads through it from time to time; warm, but not crazy-hot.

April 16, 2018, 07:30 PM	#15
KEYBEAR Senior Member Join Date: January 11, 2012 Location: Indiana Posts: 1,059	Pathfinder45 I have shot 44 Mag for a long time over 50 years now . I do love the Super Blackhawks but i can get real frustrated . I do not shoot a lot of hot loads most of the time 240gr. lead coated and I do about a 1,000 a month. All With 10.2 gr. unique about 950fps

April 16, 2018, 08:43 PM	#16
Pathfinder45 Senior Member Join Date: January 7, 2008 Posts: 3,224	Well, KEYBEAR, it sounds like you are doing a heck of a lot of shooting. I shoot my Vaquero as much as I can, but it's likely a fraction of what you are doing. Still, I probably have 10,000 rounds through this one.... Trying to be helpful, I'm wondering if my stainless screw has a greater shear-strength than a blued steel screw? Since I haven't had such a bad problem with this issue, I'm guessing that you are still running quite a few very hot loads though the gun? Even so, a Super-Blackhawk is supposed to take full-power 44 magnum ammo.... Another alternative idea: How about have a gunsmith drill and tap the hole to a slightly larger screw that can be had in grade 8 or 10 alloy tool-steel? It all must be frustrating, but it's hard to feel terribly sorry for someone that gets to go shooting a whole lot more than me. Good luck with it and let us know what solution works out best.

April 17, 2018, 12:53 AM	#17
Pathfinder45 Senior Member Join Date: January 7, 2008 Posts: 3,224	So now I'm wondering if the threads in the hole are worn and contributing to a problem that gets progressively worse.... Maybe try using JB Weld in place of loctite?

April 17, 2018, 07:05 AM	#18
KEYBEAR Senior Member Join Date: January 11, 2012 Location: Indiana Posts: 1,059	Pathfinder45 I think the steel screws are a little less likely to brake not sure if that screw it stainless or steel in all rugers . The Threads are good that is not the problem . Also I shoot lead out of this gun very little hot loads . I have a plate rack in the back yard I use every day (got tired of paper targets) if it is not raining or cold as hell . If I get real bored I shoot out of my the truck window with the heat going .

April 17, 2018, 11:30 PM	#19
Pathfinder45 Senior Member Join Date: January 7, 2008 Posts: 3,224	Keybear, are you keeping track of how many rounds are fired before each screw breaks? I know it sounds ridiculous.... I know I wouldn't bother counting, at least not until it became a recurring problem, which it is for you. It must be perplexing knowing that for many of us, it has simply never happened. I'm using 250-255 grain bullets for at least 95% of the rounds fired through my Vaquero. My standard woods load is 255 grain cast at 1075 fps. I never go below 840 in my lightest target loads; usually I'm at 950 and above. Occasionally I still get in the neighborhood of 1200 fps and for years now, I don't go any higher. I've had this revolver for about 21 years. In the beginning, screws would loosen with use. Acetone and loctite fixed that, and I have never broken the ejector housing screw, though it was the primary screw to loosen with use. Mysterious that you are having this problem while I am not. You must be firing a heck of a lot of rounds..... but that's what it was made for.

April 18, 2018, 07:02 AM	#20
KEYBEAR Senior Member Join Date: January 11, 2012 Location: Indiana Posts: 1,059	Pathfinder45 A local friend is a welder and dose stainless steam pipes only in about 198? I bought a new Ruger in stainless . I had this person sweat the ejector housing on before I ever shot this Ruger 44 mag . I shot the gun until the cylinder failed . (Hair line cracks) . I have been a reloader and shooter over 50 years and all I shot was the 44Mag . I do not know the round count on this SBH but over 12,000 last year just in powder used .

April 18, 2018, 08:25 AM	#22
KEYBEAR Senior Member Join Date: January 11, 2012 Location: Indiana Posts: 1,059	4V50 Gary That Ruger was Traded and sent back to Ruger years ago . Asfor the cracks the face of the cylinder had spider web cracks all across . It never looked to be a big problem and if it was never cleaned it was fine . Ruger did replace it with a new revolver funny they could not get it apart .

April 21, 2018, 08:49 PM	#25
KEYBEAR Senior Member Join Date: January 11, 2012 Location: Indiana Posts: 1,059	A little back round . I have loved to shoot all my life started when I was very small . Yes I have bought a lot of guns but got really into it the 1984 . In 84 I had a kidney transplant and was told by the doctor life as you have been doing it is over . That is when I really got to shooting a lot . I spent my first year after the transplant shooting and shooting every day . I shot six or seven day a week even in the winter all 44 mag mostly lead . I have been retired over ten years have a range in the back yard and use it every day . I shoot steel got tired of paper targets and shoot most all winter . Yes I have broke a lot of guns I shot the chamber out of three Thomson Center 44 Mag barrels in a year . Having tried about every Revolver in 44 Mag The Ruger is the one if I could keep it shooting . I will be 71 years old this year I still have very good eyes and will shoot until I can,t