Stock Finish: Ultra Durable

[Nathan]

Anybody try to finish a stock with Bar Top finish?

Like THIS

[Bill DeShivs]

It runs and it goes on very thick.
You might be able to thin it and spray it on.
I wouldn't expect it to be any more durable than any other tough finish-unless you put it on 1/4" thick.

[Scorch]

If you want an epoxy finish for a gun, try Brownells Acra-Wood finish. It goes on thin, can be sanded to fill and smooth the wood, and is tough as nails. I used the thick top-coating epoxy type finish on a rifle years ago. It was heavy and had a lot of sags in it that had to be sanded and polished.

[gwpercle]

Bar Top is too thick a finish as is ... it is made to pour onto a horizontal surface and then self level , leaving a thick durable surface .
Brownell's makes some of the best stock finishes .
I've been restocking and finishing rifle and handgun stocks for 50+ years now .
Good old fashioned TruOil (linseed oil based finish) is good ...but I have found something I like better ... MinWax Tung Oil Finish ... it is like TruOil but Tung Oil based instead of linseed oil based .
It's a nice finish that hardens , easy to apply , looks good and doesn't darken with age .
Gary

[Unclenick]

Actually, products called "Tung Oil Finish" rather than just "Tung Oil" usually take the name from the resemblance of their final result to a tung oil finish, but don't actually contain any tung oil. The Minwax product, I believe, has some linseed oil in it and other varnishes, probably of the poly urethane variety, along with solvents including a drier. Often, they partially polymerize the linseed oil at high temperature in an oxygen-free environment. This speeds drying and improves water resistance.

[Dfariswheel]

There are almost uncountable clear wood finishes.

Among those I've heard used on stocks is "Gym Seal" a coating for gym floors.

A friend of mine found a two part clear coating that's EXPENSIVE, and hard to work with, but he selected it because a stock maker told him it wouldn't cause a yellow tint on a stained or dyed laminated stock.

My favorite for durability is Min-Wax Antique Oil Finish.
It's slow to work with but once done it's not only the most durable finish I ever used, it's a "forever" finish because if needed it can be overhauled without stripping and starting over.
Like the old gunmakers oil finishes, the finish is IN the wood, not ON it.

Here's my 1950 Marlin 39-A I rebuilt. Min-Wax Antique Oil Finish, NOTHING on the surface. It's all in the wood.

[Nathan]

@Dfariswheel….Is there any stain under that?

Also, am I better off going with a water based stain topped with water based polyurethane or all oil based?

Is it better to find a brush on product or a rub on rub off type application?

[Unkl Chuck]

Check me as another supporter of the penetrating oil finishes for refinishing firearms or new wood, not restoration. My preference is usually pure tung oil cut with citrus solvent to aid penetration and drying. I have used most of the common wood-working oil finishes and will say they are quite similar and very useable. Minwax is marketing a 'wiping poly' finish that works very similar to ordinary oil finishes. I've used it on some furniture projects and have it on a couple of pieces of gun wood. So far so good.
As to Nathan's question about water based, I prefer oil based stains and I will not use water base urethane or varnish. This is based on my experience, your mileage may vary. Wiping finishes are the simplest for the casual user to get good results. There is plenty of how-to info on the web and YouTube.
My $.02 worth. Good luck.

[Dfariswheel]

Is there any stain under that?

Also, am I better off going with a water based stain topped with water based polyurethane or all oil based?

Is it better to find a brush on product or a rub on rub off type application?

The Marlin 39-A is nothing but Min-Wax Antiqure Oil Finish.....Back in those days American Black Walnut was darker.

I'm not a wood refinishing expert, in fact I hate doing it. I have done a good bit as needed over the years.

One secret of a good finish is to "whisker" the wood before applying a finish.
If you use a water based stain or dye you'll have to whisker the wood.

To do that wet about 1/3rd of the stock at a time then quickly force dry it with a stove burner or element, or a heat gun or torch. Be careful not to scorch or burn the wood.

This causes the tiny splinters to stand up.
Use a synthetic scrubbing pad to lightly buff the wood with the grain.
The pad will catch the splinters and cut them off.
Sandpaper will NOT do, it just presses them back down.
This also steam cleans the wood and blasts sanding dust out, leaving the grain open and ready for the finish.

Buy synthetic polishing pads at hardware stores in the sandpaper area, or buy Green pot scrubber pads at the grocery store.

You can use poly over water based stains, but it may not work with oil based stains.

[FITASC]

Build up enough layers of Truoil or Timberluxe and that will work; otherwise find out whatever it is that Browning puts on the guns with a gloss finish. When I had a stock repaired and refinished, the stock maker/gunsmith said he had to use some product that cost him $100/gallon to remove that finish - it was that tough. I can tell you that rain, sunscreen and bugscreen have zero affect on those Browning poly-finished stocks

[Dfariswheel]

Another tough one was Remington's Dupont "Bowling pin finish".

That was HARD to get off for a refinish.

[FITASC]

Yes it was - my 1100 had a finish similar to that Browning finish - I would bet Remington used some form of DuPont poly...............

[Unkl Chuck]

A little update on urethanes, the oil based polyurethanes are much more durable than the water based or 'polycrylic' material, but straight oil based urethane can be a bit more difficult to get a good job for those of us that don't use it regularly. Minwax is marketing a 'wiping polyurethane' as is Watco. I have used the Minwax product and like it, the Watco is probably similar. Look to make sure that the thinning / clean-up agent is mineral spirits.
Some of these hard finishes that folks have mentioned are probably a catalyzed clear finish, more effort than most of us DIY types can deal with in application and safety. Tough, good looking and difficult to work with.

[Nathan]

A little update on urethanes, the oil based polyurethanes are much more durable than the water based or 'polycrylic' material, but straight oil based urethane can be a bit more difficult to get a good job for those of us that don't use it regularly. Minwax is marketing a 'wiping polyurethane' as is Watco. I have used the Minwax product and like it, the Watco is probably similar. Look to make sure that the thinning / clean-up agent is mineral spirits.
Some of these hard finishes that folks have mentioned are probably a catalyzed clear finish, more effort than most of us DIY types can deal with in application and safety. Tough, good looking and difficult to work with.

You are stating water based as less durable, but the is contrary to to Minwax’s information.

What make poly’s harder to apply that oils? Is it wiping vs brushing?

There is wiping poly? Easier because it wipes on.

I’m assuming poly is brushed on and sanded smooth, then repeat with the next coat, until sanding changes to a light polish.

I guess I need to try on a sample piece of wood.

[Unkl Chuck]

In my experience, the water-born varnishes generally were less durable, required more coats, and did not bond to previous coats as well. Most of these are currently referred to as a polycrylic finish and some are available as 'wiping finish'. Polyurethane is a different animal involving oils and polymers, I'm not a chemist and am not about to try to explain, except the oil based finish bonds better, builds better, and is harder than the water based finish. It also smells worse, is flammable, and requires mineral spirits to thin or clean up.
The polyurethane comes as a brush/roll on, wipe on, or even a rattle can spray. I prefer to use wipe on oil finishes for small projects. Wipe ons are easier for a less experienced user to get a good finish. Since it has been several years since I used a water based varnish, I would recommend doing your own research and testing if you want to go that way.
The wiping polyurethane is basically applied like any penetrating oil finish. Read and follow the instructions. There are web and YouTubes for further learning.
There are several wiping Polyurethanes on the market, Minwax and Watco are the most common and are good finishes. I have Minwax in a gloss finish and in a satin finish in my shop right now.
Generally, you scuff sand between every 1 or 2 coats on any of these finishes. You'll lay down 4 or more coats to acheive good results.
Practicing on sample pieces is always a good idea.
Ace, Lowes, Menards and Home Depot are good common sources.
Hope I've added a little clarity to my earlier response.