Franchi 48 AL 12ga Not Cycling Rounds

danbru1989 · September 6, 2016, 06:58 AM

I've been searching the Internet for a few weeks and testing different solutions, but I still have not figured out why my Franchi 48 AL is not cycling rounds.

This should give you a good idea what I'm working with:
https://youtu.be/mxP9Puhg4PI

When I got the gun, after some unsuccessful shooting, I noticed that the friction spring and friction ring were both missing. So I purchased those parts new hoping that would solve all my problems. It didn't, so I tried giving the whole gun a good cleaning including lightly oiling the mag tube – as some suggested. Still not cycling.

When on light load setting, it fails to eject the round, which makes me think that the friction spring is too tight. I could try putting more lube on the mag tube (even though the manual says not to do this) or stretching the spring a little.

When on heavy load setting, the round ejects, but the bolt fails to return forward and chamber the next round. I don't have any thoughts on that without another complete tear down.

Is my ammo junk? (See the video)

Thanks for any help you can provide!

wachtelhund1 · September 6, 2016, 07:05 PM

The 48 ALs where very simple auto loaders, long recoiling actions. When fired the barrel came back, driving the bolt back and the arm attached to the bolt back into the stock. Just like the Browning A5. Take the barrel off and inspect the barrel rails and the action groves that the barrel rail slide back into the action. Are they damaged? Remove the bolt and attached arm. Check them for damage? The rail and action groves. Check the stock for an obstruction? Remove the butt plate and recoil spring from inside the stock. Check spring and look for anything that might be stopping the bolt and attached arm from recoiling back into the stock.

I have three 48 ALs .20 gauge shotguns.

danbru1989 · September 7, 2016, 08:25 AM

Thanks - I'll have to double check for damage. I had the gun apart once and didn't notice anything, but I didn't give a close examination everywhere either. There may be more than one problem, but I think at least one problem is not having the optimal tension on the recoil spring. I'm going to test that theory today.

Scorch · September 8, 2016, 02:23 AM

So, what I see on the light load setting is the action cycling but the bolt not locking to the rear. The bolt locking to the rear is what allows the ejector to eject the round. And since the bolt does not lock back, it will not chamber another round. Seems like the bolt catch (carrier latch) could be worn.

On the higher power setting, the bolt latch is not being released. This is done by the grooved cam surfaces on the side of the barrel extension. Again, look at the bolt catch.

Dixie Gunsmithing · September 10, 2016, 12:51 AM

These guns work like the Browning Auto-5. You have to shift the rings around for light and heavy loads. It sounds like you have two problems.

1) The rings are set for heavy loads, when you're shooting light loads. Thus, the gun will not eject the spent shell. Move the small ring to the rear of the recoil spring, and leave the brass brake ring at the front. Turn the bevel of the small ring toward the receiver, and not the spring, when you move it to the rear. Do not add oil, and this will gum it up.

2) When using heavy loads, the bolt is staying at the rear. The next shell coming out of the magazine is supposed to mash in the carrier latch, releasing it, so the bolt can go forward. Is there a shell coming out of the magazine after you fire the one that causes the bolt to stay back? If you only fire one shell at a time, and do not have the magazine loaded with others, the bolt will stay back, until you put another shell into the magazine, and it comes back out onto the carrier.

September 6, 2016, 06:58 AM	#1
danbru1989 Junior Member Join Date: September 5, 2016 Posts: 2	Franchi 48 AL 12ga Not Cycling Rounds I've been searching the Internet for a few weeks and testing different solutions, but I still have not figured out why my Franchi 48 AL is not cycling rounds. This should give you a good idea what I'm working with: https://youtu.be/mxP9Puhg4PI When I got the gun, after some unsuccessful shooting, I noticed that the friction spring and friction ring were both missing. So I purchased those parts new hoping that would solve all my problems. It didn't, so I tried giving the whole gun a good cleaning including lightly oiling the mag tube – as some suggested. Still not cycling. When on light load setting, it fails to eject the round, which makes me think that the friction spring is too tight. I could try putting more lube on the mag tube (even though the manual says not to do this) or stretching the spring a little. When on heavy load setting, the round ejects, but the bolt fails to return forward and chamber the next round. I don't have any thoughts on that without another complete tear down. Is my ammo junk? (See the video) Thanks for any help you can provide!

September 8, 2016, 02:23 AM	#4
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	So, what I see on the light load setting is the action cycling but the bolt not locking to the rear. The bolt locking to the rear is what allows the ejector to eject the round. And since the bolt does not lock back, it will not chamber another round. Seems like the bolt catch (carrier latch) could be worn. On the higher power setting, the bolt latch is not being released. This is done by the grooved cam surfaces on the side of the barrel extension. Again, look at the bolt catch. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

September 6, 2016, 07:05 PM	#2
wachtelhund1 Senior Member Join Date: January 4, 2007 Location: pelican lake, WI Posts: 414	The 48 ALs where very simple auto loaders, long recoiling actions. When fired the barrel came back, driving the bolt back and the arm attached to the bolt back into the stock. Just like the Browning A5. Take the barrel off and inspect the barrel rails and the action groves that the barrel rail slide back into the action. Are they damaged? Remove the bolt and attached arm. Check them for damage? The rail and action groves. Check the stock for an obstruction? Remove the butt plate and recoil spring from inside the stock. Check spring and look for anything that might be stopping the bolt and attached arm from recoiling back into the stock. I have three 48 ALs .20 gauge shotguns.

September 7, 2016, 08:25 AM	#3
danbru1989 Junior Member Join Date: September 5, 2016 Posts: 2	Thanks - I'll have to double check for damage. I had the gun apart once and didn't notice anything, but I didn't give a close examination everywhere either. There may be more than one problem, but I think at least one problem is not having the optimal tension on the recoil spring. I'm going to test that theory today.

September 10, 2016, 12:51 AM	#5
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	These guns work like the Browning Auto-5. You have to shift the rings around for light and heavy loads. It sounds like you have two problems. 1) The rings are set for heavy loads, when you're shooting light loads. Thus, the gun will not eject the spent shell. Move the small ring to the rear of the recoil spring, and leave the brass brake ring at the front. Turn the bevel of the small ring toward the receiver, and not the spring, when you move it to the rear. Do not add oil, and this will gum it up. 2) When using heavy loads, the bolt is staying at the rear. The next shell coming out of the magazine is supposed to mash in the carrier latch, releasing it, so the bolt can go forward. Is there a shell coming out of the magazine after you fire the one that causes the bolt to stay back? If you only fire one shell at a time, and do not have the magazine loaded with others, the bolt will stay back, until you put another shell into the magazine, and it comes back out onto the carrier.