November 4, 2017, 10:22 AM | #26 |
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It's not "real time" as in when you are shooting, as the data and the Labradar's stat calculations are coming off the memory card after the shooting session is done. What he means is that, rather than being stuck with the stats the Labradar recorded on the card, he set Excel up to calculate the same stats directly from the velocity data, so that if you alter a piece of data the whole sheet recalculates the stats on the fly (Excel's normal mode of operation, though you can also force a recalculation any time with the F9 key). This allows him to identify erroneous data and eliminate it and get automatically updated stats that are correct for the remaining data only, and that no longer include the error.
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November 4, 2017, 10:37 AM | #27 | |
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November 6, 2017, 03:22 PM | #28 | |
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A much better explanation than I gave! Thank you! |
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November 7, 2017, 07:56 PM | #29 |
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As I understand it when you download the files from the card you have a CVS file and an XLS file for each bank of shots. The XLS file has a range and velocity for each blip of the radar. In that file you also get energy, power factor and all the other calculations for each blip. All you need to do is open it with a spreadsheet and it's all there.
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November 7, 2017, 11:03 PM | #30 |
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the XLS file is a sweet feature
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November 17, 2017, 09:37 PM | #31 |
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Midway has them on sale for $60 off. You can also get them on sale direct through the manufacturer for $60 off. Couldn't resist and ordered one. I'll probably be in the dog house for a while.
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November 17, 2017, 10:58 PM | #32 |
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I haven't been able to get out for a while--I lost access to the range I usually go to so it may be a while before I get to shoot again. Be sure to mount a tube doohickie into the sight slot on the top of the unit (as recommended in the video on the manufacturer's website). Before testing hand-loads, have some "dummy" cartridges to ensure the unit will successfully acquire (usually a question of the muzzle blast's directional impulse being able to successfully trigger the unit assuming it is pointed properly at your target). My experience so far has been that barrels lacking a muzzle device--and those that have one but most of the blast goes forward or side/forward (like a typical AR flash suppressor and many compensators)--usually need to be positioned fairly close to the unit in terms of the front plane of the unit. Brakes that use the blast to dampen recoil seem to be the opposite--big boomers should be placed further forward (or even have a deflector according to the manual).
Generally speaking, the smaller and faster the projectile--the less distance the unit will track it--but my unit sometimes manages to acquire and track a 6mm creed load of mine doing around 3200 fps to 75 yds--even though the manual clearly says it should only get it out to 50. I've had a few hick-ups learning the best muzzle positions for each weapon--but otherwise am very pleased with the labradar.
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November 18, 2017, 12:06 AM | #33 |
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Thanks for that tip.
I was watching some of the videos and it they said to keep the tip of the barrel even with the Labradar if rifle doesn't have a muzzle device. What's your experience? The guy in this video has his Savage 6.5 well in front of the device. I hope that works since my Savage 10T barrel is 24" and is longer than the benches at my range. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cP9ZMkMxEyc |
November 18, 2017, 05:01 AM | #34 | |
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Generally speaking, I think there's a learning curve for figuring out what positions work best for what particular weapon, so don't freak out--as I did --if you drop some shots at first. If the unit prints a screen that says "error to acquire" (or whatever the exact words are) that means you have a problem with the aiming of the radar relative to the target. If it just sits there without recording the shot--that means your muzzle position is not allowing the impulse to trigger the unit. PS--I don't recommend shooting from inside a doghouse.
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"Everyone speaks gun."--Robert O'Neill I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk! Last edited by stagpanther; November 18, 2017 at 05:18 AM. |
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November 18, 2017, 08:45 AM | #35 |
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I saw one of these in action at the range the other day and I must admit it is a slick idea. The owner spoke highly of the customer service and said the only problems he has heard of is that they are a bit delicate and the padded carry case is a must. His first one stopped working but was promptly replaced and he had no complaints
Every time I think of replacing my old optical chrony I ask myself, will this help me in my quest for smaller groups or just a fancy toy to impress the boys at the range ? I always decide the money would be better spent on upgrading my guns or reloading equipment.
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November 18, 2017, 10:42 AM | #36 | |
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November 18, 2017, 11:05 AM | #37 |
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I've held off buying a chrony due to setup hassle plus a fear I would destroy it. Almost pulled the trigger on the Magneto Speed. But held off due to the POI change and more difficult to setup. But this purchase is to gain knowledge on how consistent my reloads are and know their velocity.
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November 18, 2017, 12:19 PM | #38 | |
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Is my old 100 dollar CE accurate ? Accurate enough for me, I was shooting at 600 last week, added 8 MOA and was within .25 MOA (2 inches) at 800. One day I will get a Labradar , after seeing one in action it will definitely be my next chrono. But at the moment a new stock, new scope and possibly a non .223 AR15 upper are all on my wish list ahead of it. 600 dollars buys a lot of powder and bullets and in my opinion the best way for me to improve my shooting at the moment is to send as many bullets down range a week as I can.
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November 18, 2017, 01:58 PM | #39 | |
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