September 22, 2018, 06:38 AM | #1 |
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tightening scope mounts ?
How do you guys tighten your scopes rings and action bolts, by feel or do you use a torque wrench ?
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September 22, 2018, 06:59 AM | #2 |
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I always use a torque wrench since I bought a Fat Wrench a few years back. Scope mount mfg's are starting to provide recommended torque values. Poundages vary for rings, bases & for aluminum vs. steel.
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September 22, 2018, 11:13 AM | #3 | |
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Depends on the application
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September 22, 2018, 11:34 AM | #4 |
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Used to wing it until my Vortex came in and it specified 18lbs ... bought a wheeler.
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September 22, 2018, 11:37 AM | #5 |
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September 22, 2018, 01:05 PM | #6 |
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"...use a torque wrench..." Nope. And they're not necessary. What matters most is having a screw driver than fits the screws.
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September 22, 2018, 01:14 PM | #7 |
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Thanks for the info, I appreciate it
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September 23, 2018, 12:07 AM | #8 |
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I use Brownells adjustable magna-tip torque wrench.
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September 24, 2018, 02:29 PM | #9 |
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I do it by feel.
I do the action screws with an old 1/4 inch torque wrench.
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September 24, 2018, 05:50 PM | #10 |
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I absolutely use a torque wrench!
In my case a Wheeler Fat Wrench. With some of these scopes requiring 18 inlb(Vortex), i'm not about to chance damaging a $200+ scope. Also there is a proceedure for tuning your action that requires it. And make sure the driver fits properly.
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September 26, 2018, 02:22 PM | #11 |
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For many years, I just did it by feel. Never was sure if too loose, too tight, was torque consistent? I never stripped anything out, but no doubt torque wasn't consistent. Started using a Fat Wrench a few years ago. Now I don't have to guess
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September 27, 2018, 08:25 AM | #12 |
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Do you guys recommend the older fat wrench or the new digital fat wrench ?
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September 29, 2018, 02:48 PM | #13 | |
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I haven't had a chance to play with the digital version. The analog one seems fine and the calibration tag that came with mine showed it was spot on in the middle of the range when it left the factory.
The thing to be aware of with any of the spring detent style torque wrenches is the springs can take a set over time and they can go out of calibration. Always leave them on the lowest setting when you aren't going to use them for a while. Take them to a shop that can check the calibration every couple of years if you don't know how to set up to check it yourself. If calibration checks scare you, buy a swing-arm torque wrench and learn how to use the handle correctly and it will never go out of calibration if you treat it nicely. Quote:
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September 29, 2018, 08:19 PM | #14 |
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I suggest four things for mounting your scope.
1) Torque wrench. 2) An assortment of quality heads that will actually fit in the type of screw head you are mounting. 3) I don't use Lock-tite. But I use black finger nail polish and I just coat the threads lightly. 4) A scope leveler. Now are any of these things a must? Well of course not, but I have been doing this for years to many rifles and all is good. |
September 30, 2018, 09:46 AM | #15 |
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The leveler is a good point. I bought one from NECO years ago that rests a V on the barrel and an adjustable one on the scope bell with a bubble level on it. It works on the assumption the scope is straight above the bore line, so it won't work with an offset scope like a Garand or M14 scope mount has. But assuming your scope is straight up, as most are, you can then adjust the feet on your gun vice to bring the gun to vertical. Once you've done that, a plumb line or a vertical line from self-leveling laser projected on a wall may be used to set the scope reticule to vertical. I go around the screws like I was putting a head back on an engine, alternating diagonal sides while watching that vertical alignment. The idea is the rings will try to pull the scope off vertical when you tighten just one side, and I want that to happen by equal amounts all around.
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September 30, 2018, 10:34 AM | #16 |
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I find the Wheeler Professional Scope Mounting Kit to be well worth the money, just for my peace of mind.
No. More. Guessing. On UncleNick's point about the lube, the reason for that is simple really... most of the torque on dry surfaces goes to friction between either the 2 sets of threads or between head and surface... when those areas are lubed, the torque is transferred to clamping force. If you're not lubricating, you're wasting torque... unless the manufacturer calls for dry torque.
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September 30, 2018, 12:07 PM | #17 | |
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Personal techniques
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By the way, it's called a "Reticle, not reticule" …… Be Safe !!!
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September 30, 2018, 01:16 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
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September 30, 2018, 06:53 PM | #19 |
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^^^This^^^
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September 30, 2018, 07:41 PM | #20 |
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Scopes are pretty tough but they hate being being distorted so I use torque wrench with no Loctite. A Vortex tech guy told me that Loctite can throw off your torque measurement and cause you to overtorque. Never heard that before but I haven't used it since and have never had any loosening problems without it
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October 1, 2018, 08:27 AM | #21 |
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which wheeler fat wrench to buy, the old or the new digital ?
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October 1, 2018, 09:19 PM | #22 |
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I use the older kind that just clicks when you reach your adjustment. I get tired of replacing batteries in all these digital gadgets.
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October 1, 2018, 09:55 PM | #23 |
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I use the older....I don’t really see value in digital torque wrenches except at work where I would want to send quality data directly to a database.....for my own use, not required.
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October 1, 2018, 10:43 PM | #24 |
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Seems like a place where digital is unnecessary, even awkward... and I'm a guy who likes gadgets.
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October 2, 2018, 02:36 PM | #25 |
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I had the older FAT and decided to upgrade (?) to the digital and sold the mechanical. After using the digital for a bit I think I prefer the mechanical
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