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Old January 10, 2023, 07:51 PM   #1
Joe.G
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New to Me S&W 34-1 Any idea the year? What do you think about it?

Hi, I Got this S&W 34-1 today, I picked it up as a practice gun for my kids. The grips that came with definitely are not meant for this gun, I did pick up a set of Sile Grips. Any links to the correct grips for the gun?

Any Idea on the year it was produced? Serial # M465**

General idea on condition and value?

Any other facts about these guns?

Thank you


https://www.ebay.com/itm/372097391830
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File Type: jpg 34-1.jpg (199.4 KB, 147 views)
File Type: jpg 34-2.jpg (165.9 KB, 99 views)
File Type: jpg 34-3.jpg (179.3 KB, 86 views)
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Old January 10, 2023, 07:53 PM   #2
Joe.G
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Some more.
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File Type: jpg 34-4.jpg (83.0 KB, 65 views)
File Type: jpg 34-5.jpg (71.1 KB, 48 views)
File Type: jpg 34-6.jpg (73.6 KB, 51 views)
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Old January 10, 2023, 07:54 PM   #3
Joe.G
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I am not sure if I am posting the pictures correctly.
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File Type: jpg 34-8.jpg (127.4 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg 34-9.jpg (101.6 KB, 38 views)
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Old January 10, 2023, 07:55 PM   #4
Joe.G
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Last One.
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Old January 10, 2023, 08:27 PM   #5
mk70ss
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EBay has many grips. Just look for S&W J Frame round butt grips.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/16587206358...mis&media=COPY
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Old January 10, 2023, 11:25 PM   #6
RoyceP
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These are probably the original style for that Kit Gun:


https://www.ebay.com/itm/17556019099...Bk9SR8jljvGzYQ
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Old January 11, 2023, 08:00 AM   #7
jar
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Here is my 1966 34-1 Kit gun with the original grips serial numbered to the revolver.

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Old January 11, 2023, 08:20 AM   #8
Mike Irwin
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Your gun was made pre 1983 or so, as evidenced by the pinned barrel.

I don't have my books right now, but my gut tells me that your Kit Gun was made in the late 1960s or early 1970s.

What has me perplexed, though, is the weird markings on the right side of the grip frame. It looks like milling machine chatter, but I've never seen anything quite like it.
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Old January 11, 2023, 09:53 AM   #9
MC 1911
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Somewhere between 1970 - 1973
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Old January 11, 2023, 12:05 PM   #10
burrhead
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Price is very location dependent. In my neck of the woods I'd say value, with the grips it's wearing now, is $500 or so. $550+ with proper grips.
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Old January 11, 2023, 02:07 PM   #11
jcj54
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Marks on right side of grip frame

Are definitely milling cutter chatter. A clear sign the cutter is getting dull.
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Old January 11, 2023, 03:26 PM   #12
HKGuns
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Based on your serial number I would say it was produced in 1972.

As of 2018

NIB: $756
Ex: $408
Gd: $305
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Old January 11, 2023, 09:51 PM   #13
Armybrat
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Nice little .22.
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Old January 11, 2023, 10:50 PM   #14
Joe.G
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I didn't even notice the Chatter until you guy's pointed it out.
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Old January 13, 2023, 04:12 PM   #15
Joe.G
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On the S&W Forum another Member pointed out that the screws were in the wrong location, I have moved them and I think they are correct now.

 There was one flat and then 2 round, the round were not threaded all the way to the tip, both appeared the same.



I was hoping that was going to be the issues with the Grip, They are comfortable but they are not tight on the back strap where they meet there is a gap, I can squeeze them together but they don't stay.
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File Type: jpg 34-11.jpg (190.1 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg 34-12.jpg (178.3 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 34-13.jpg (191.8 KB, 9 views)
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Old January 13, 2023, 04:14 PM   #16
Joe.G
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2 More
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File Type: jpg 34-15.jpg (85.4 KB, 10 views)
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Old January 13, 2023, 06:40 PM   #17
MC 1911
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Does the grip screw bottom out or get tight. I've had a similar issue with same type of grips and using a shorter screw pulled them tight.
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Old January 13, 2023, 08:03 PM   #18
Drm50
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I’d give $400 and make $200-$250 on that 34.
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Old January 13, 2023, 08:56 PM   #19
HKGuns
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe.G View Post
On the S&W Forum another Member pointed out that the screws were in the wrong location, I have moved them and I think they are correct now.

 There was one flat and then 2 round, the round were not threaded all the way to the tip, both appeared the same.



I was hoping that was going to be the issues with the Grip, They are comfortable but they are not tight on the back strap where they meet there is a gap, I can squeeze them together but they don't stay.

I didn’t notice that detail from your pics but it’s pretty obvious now when I look.

Looks like you got the flat one in the right spot now.

The one with the tit goes all the way to the forward end to catch the yoke and hold the cylinder in place.
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Old January 14, 2023, 07:29 AM   #20
Joe.G
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So I did swap them and the cylinder was tight when opening I did pull both round heads out and they appear the same, I just tightened the yoke one and then backed it off a hair and everything seems to feel correct now.
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