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January 3, 2018, 02:46 PM | #1 |
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Cutting Back Savage Accustock
I want to add a better recoil pad to my Savage 111. Right now the length of pull is right at the limit with my short and stubby arms. I have had wood stocks cut back in the past. Can a gunsmith cut back a fiberglass stock for LOP adjustments? I have heard many are hollow inside.
Last edited by USAF Ret; January 3, 2018 at 03:55 PM. |
January 3, 2018, 03:04 PM | #2 |
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Sure.
Cloth/epoxy resin and/or epoxy putty takes care of any issues.
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January 3, 2018, 03:07 PM | #3 | |
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Can be done !!!
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January 3, 2018, 03:16 PM | #4 | |
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January 3, 2018, 03:29 PM | #5 |
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Very few rifles come from the factory with fiberglass stocks. Most are injection molded plastic. Are you certain it is fiberglass? If it is they CAN be cut some shorter, but the amount you can cut off is limited. I'd contact the stock manufacturer for advice. Some companies use HS-Precision and a few McMillan and that is who I'd be seeking advice from before I ruined a $400-$600 stock.
If it is injection molded it is a LOT harder, but can be done. A wooden plug cut to the exact dimensions needs to be epoxied into the opening so you have something to attach the recoil pad or butt plate to. If you ruin one of these they can usually be replaced for around $100 or less. They turn up used quite often for $25 or so when someone takes one off to go with an aftermarket stock. Most of the manufacturers offer a shorter "youth" stock at a decent price and that may be a better option.
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January 4, 2018, 08:34 AM | #6 |
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The savage Accustock is an aluminum chassis wrapped in injection molded plastic. If you shorten the LOP you'll loose the screw attachments for the recoil pad. This doesn't mean it can't be done, I paid to have a similar stock cut down to fit my daughter when she started shooting. It was actually cheaper than buying a new youth stock from Savage.
The guy that did the work epoxied in a 3/8 plywood piece that fit flush with the stock and gave the screws something to attach to. He then fitted a new recoil pad to the stock, cost me $90 for parts and labor. Savage wanted over $130 for a youth stock.
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January 4, 2018, 09:16 AM | #7 | |
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January 6, 2018, 07:22 PM | #8 |
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USAFret. I think you are doing the right thing. Also you can sell the Accustock to recover back some of the funds you spent on the Boyd's stock.
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January 6, 2018, 10:12 PM | #9 |
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After it is cut, you just need to fab up some kind of recoil pad attachments. My first attempt would be to grind down the current butt plate to be epoxied into the stock. Then attach butt pad to it.
If that layout is NG, you can buy PE sheet at like .25" thick to begged into the butt you should also be able to find inserts on ebay So you have a solid pad mount. |
January 7, 2018, 07:11 AM | #10 |
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Three seconds on my radial saw and Zip! done.
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January 7, 2018, 02:51 PM | #11 | |
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Number of teeth ??
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I know that on a synthetic, it might be immaterial but asking how many teeth on your saw blade. I use a jig for my 10" miter/Chop saw and the number of teeth is important when cutting a Walnut/wooden stock. ..... Be Safe
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'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing. Last edited by Pahoo; January 7, 2018 at 02:58 PM. |
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January 7, 2018, 04:38 PM | #12 |
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I've done 4 savage tupperware stocks--I want to say a fine tooth finishing blade would do the trick (if not a fine carbide tip I'm sure would do the trick)--you might get some heat beading up of the palstic on the cut edges--but I just sand down on a finishing sanding disk anyway--I'm too lazy to do accurate measurements so it will take a bit of sanding to get a symetric line-up with the buttpad. You may need to sand the plug portion of the buttpad that fits inside the stock end to fit the narrower circumference of the stock once you've shortened it. I'd recommend taking the stock down in increments to check the LOP you want.
Because the circumference of the stock end will likely be less than that of the butpad depending on how much you lop off--you may need to sand down a "step-down" from the buttpad to the stock. It definitely does not look like pristine shop gun--but I don't care since I generally paint a camo finish over the whole mess when I'm done. The accustock is stiffer than the "standard" tupperware like you might find on the axis--I usually also fill the foreend gaps in front of the recoil lug slot with RC 7 to stiffen it up--then grind the barrel channels back just a touch. passes my free-float test if I can rest the rifle on just a bipod attached to the front swivel and slip a dollar bill up and down the barrel without hanging on the stock. It's not as complicated as it sounds--in fact it will be kind of obvious as you go. All the rifles I've done this to shoot great--but I wouldn't call them a reseller's dream gun fix. Like I said--I don't think much of the tupperware stocks to begin with--so from my perspective it's a " so-what" if it doesn't look pretty--I'm just going to bash it up in the woods anyway. Even if you totally goof up you give yourself a good excuse to buy a fancy chmancy new boyd's stock. I haven't goofed one up yet--and believe me I'm no skilled gunsmith (which also means YRMV).
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January 7, 2018, 07:36 PM | #13 | |
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Tooth count.
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January 7, 2018, 07:55 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
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