Jet mill and jet lathe questions

[Rblevin1]

I was lucky enough to be given and Jet Bd1325 lathe and a Jet jmd18 mill. I don't have much of a machining background but have been interested in going back to school for gunsmithing. I personally am mainly into rifles.My question is is the 13x25 lathe big enough to handle rebarrels, chambering and such enough to cut my teeth on it? maybe some of you will have some input, Thanks.

[ShootistPRS]

How much run-out in the head?
Does it cut threads?
Does it have a follow rest?
Is the through bore in the chuck head large enough for a barrel to go through?
Does it have a four jaw chuck?
Does it have a live center?
Can the tail stock be adjusted?

It is a bit on the short side for a gunsmith lathe but you might be able to make it work if it is accurate and accessories are available.

[Rblevin1]

It does cut threads, there is through bore that the barrel can fit, it has a three jaw chuck,and the tail stock can be adjusted. Those are about the only answers I know right off.

[dakota.potts]

It sounds like it's going to be pretty crowded for working on rifle barrels.

If you have the equipment, I would turn some parts and check them for runout and repeatability. I can't imagine I would want to do that type of work on a machine with any more than .001" runout (much less preferred) but I'm sure others have done so and will have experience to share about that. You should also check it for taper in the tailstock if you plan on using that as a support.

I definitely wouldn't do any barrel work in a 3-jaw chuck myself.

If you want any information about the gunsmithing school in South Carolina, feel free to PM me.

[Gunplummer]

The only thing you cannot compensate for is bad spindle bearings. Learn how to get around the rest. Play around with it and see what you can learn. Buy some indicators and a pack of shim stock. I knew competent gunsmiths that did well with lathes most people would not use for a wood lathe. It reminds of the old saying "Does the woman make the clothes or do the clothes make the woman".

[iraiam]

I wasn't able to come up with a manual for the bd1325, but the model number would suggest that it's a 13X25 lathe (judging from other jet equipment). 13 inch swing over the bed, and 25 inches between centers.

You'll really want a 4 jaw chuck for precision work, 25" between centers is a little tight for for some work but it should definitely get you started. If the spindle bore is big enough, you should be able to do some full length rifle barrel work on the 25" lathe. A full length barrel profile may be interesting to accomplish though.

I would just go ahead and replace the spindle bearings, I have a very similar lathe and the spindle is kind of a weak link. It may just have 2 opposing cup/cone bearings on the spindle shaft. I replaced mine with high quality bearings for better accuracy.

[HiBC]

OK,another opinion!!

Those of us answering you have no idea of the condition of the lathe. If the lathe was working in a commercial shop,running all day,every day,it might be weak.Same for the mill.Few commercial shops would put a Jet machine on the floor. Some schools will.
Or it might have been a home man-cave lathe,that ran 100 hours a year,doing light work.
It might have never been beat on,it might have been brush cleaned,built 5 rifles or a few bicycles or RC cars.

There might be NO REASON whatsoever to do anything but keep it clean and lubed.
Rblevin,I ran a lathe and a mill for 30 years earning a living.If those machines are sound,you have a real prize.
A 13 in lathe will have a 1 3/8 spindle bore.It will accept a 5C collet drawbar .Maybe some day you will get one.Collets are handy.

A 3 jaw chuck is useful.Some are better than others.Its nice if yours has reversible hardened jaws.Don't mix them up!.They are stamped to match the jaws.Some 3-jaws have screws that allow you to adjust out runout.Buck and Yuasa make those,among others.Some chucks are just garbage.There is not anything you can do with them.If you should have or find a nice,value or even used chuck,they attach to a "backing plate" The backing plate is first attached to the spindle without the chuck.Then it is machined true to your machine.It will be faced for squareness,and a diameter will be turned to fit precisely in the back of your chuck body. Then the chuck body is assembled to the backing plate.Things will run pretty darn true.


But likely,you will want a 4-jaw.Each jaw moves independently.With an indicator,you can get your workpiece running true to within .0002 easily.

For gun work,you will want a "Spider" You will make that.Your mill will help.Its a steelcap with a bore that fits over the other end of your spindle.It has 4 opposed screws that you use like the 4 jaw,so both ends of a barrel run true.

MANY smiths are cursed with smaller lathes that won't allow a barrel to pass through the headstock.They have to have a long bed,steady rest,etc.

You have it easy!!. You don't really need a follower rest or a steady rest for 99.9% of what you might want to do.
Just my opinion,but if you check the barrel making process of makers like Krieger,the stress relief processes,etc,I just do not worry about profiling barrels!!Buy the right profile in the first place.
If you do not have one ,a proper quick change toolpost is ,IMO,a "must have".I like the Aloris type .Small,value priced Chinese knock-offs are available.I think"Phase Two" makes one. You get blocks to hold turning tools,boring bars,part off blades,etc. Its an investment,but a good one.

If you do not have one,you will want a "live center" Some have a set of interchangable tips.Nice,but expensive.A basic one will do.
Some "center drills" A set comes in a round,wood block.Maybe "0" thru #4

You will want to find a "thread guage" on E-bay,also called a "fishtail" Its useful for grinding thread tools,and setting them up in the lathe.

For your mill,look for a "3/8 dia edge finder" .Starret is good.SPI will do.
You will use it ever job!. It magically finds the edge of your workpiece so you can set your dials.

Ita a matter of preference,but IMO,Browne and Sharpe are the best dial calipers. Mititoyo,Starret are good. If you have to go cheap,a good brand VERNIER,no dial,no digits,is cheap and reliable.You just have to learn how to use it!
Get a 4 in Norton fine india stone ,about 1 in by 4 in by 1/4. That will be the stone you use on your lathe tools,and about any other cutting edge.
Get a jewelers loupe.5x,or 7x,or 10 x,no matter. and a good 6 in satin chrome 1/2 wide flexible scale.One side in 1/10th and 1/100th grads,the other in fractions..1/32,64th,etc.

You'll need a 1 in micrometer,too,to get going.

You will need a spindle oil and a ways oil. Texaco Regal R+O is a good spindle oil that is also used in hydraulics.
IIRC Shell Vactra is a good way oil. An outfit like Blue Ridge or Grizzly might sell small qty.

WD 40 is a great aluminum cutting/threading oil. Relton Rapid Tap,Tap-Matic,Tap Magic,etc sell steel tapping fluids and cutting oils.Generally,do not drill or tap metal dry.Except brass.

Feel free to PM me,I will be happy to help.

If you know what to look for,E-bay is your friend.

[Shimpy]

I had a 12x36 Jet and put all my barrels thru the headstock held with a 4 jaw or adjustible 3 Jaw Buck chuck. I indicated the bore. I drilled and tapped the other side of the headstock in 4 places so I could use set screws and indicated that side of barrel (bore) also to ensure chamber would be perfectly in line with the bore. These were bench rest barrels and shot very well in competition.
It is also important to note that the same procedure needs to be done when crowning the muzzle to ensure is is also square with the bore.

[Rblevin1]

Thanks for all the info, I don't think I'd be profiling barrels for awhile. But I'm looking forward to getting it set up and just getting used to running a lathe.

[kraigwy]

What is more important (in gun work) then the distance between centers, is the whole in the head stock.

I have a Jet 12X36, I've been doing barrel work since I got the lathe in '81, but I seldom have need of the 36 inch, between centers. My lathe has a 1 1/2 inch hole in the head stock.

What is critical on barrel work is not the outside of the barrel but the bore. That's where the 4 jaw chuck is critical. I don't aline the chuck to the outside of the barrel but instead aline it so as the bore is centered.

This is extremely critical for threading barrels for muzzle brakes and suppressors.

If you don't have one, the most necessary piece of equipment for your lathe, and milling machine is a dial indicator. There are dozens of other necessary accessories but the dial indicator is the mort important in my opinion.

I don't know about the mill you mentioned, but I also have a Jet 16 Mil/Drill machine. You'd be surprised at what you can accomplish with such a machine, its all in the set up. Again, the dial indicator is critical in doing the most basic work to the advanced setups.

Best thing I can advise, is practice. Find some gunsmith with some old, worn out barrels. Often you can get these just for hauling them off.

Practice, Cut chamber threads, thread the barrels for brakes. Practice fluting on your milling machine. Get some scrap metal and practice making bolt handles (knobs). You'll learn, you'll have fun, and if you screw up, toss it and start over. Or cut the screw up off and do it again. If you have an old 24 inch barrel, practice treading for brakes. When done, cut it off and do another one.

I'm not a machinist, nor am I, by any means a gun smith, but I'm put together some darn nice rifles. I've made some pretty accurate target rifles. I've built a few 1000 yard rifles for the AK NG Rifle teams that have shot darn good.

Don't let anyone discourage you, you're entering an interesting, fun, and useful hobby.

After a bit of practice, buy some junked bubbed used rifles, strip them of the actions and start build your own rifles. Often you can find these junk rifles pretty cheap.

I get a lot more pleasure from the rifles I've built then the ones I've bought.

NOTE: Again I'm not, nor have I ever claimed to be a gun smith. Nor am I a machinist, but I do have fun.