Kalashnikov "Battle Zero"

[KyleYankee]

Now that I have a sight adjustment tool, I'm going to zero my NHM-91. I'd like to use the "Battle Zero" setting (rearmost position for the rear sight). I've heard people say this is a 200, 300, and even 400m zero. I don't know who is correct.

I don't know about you, but my local range uses YARDS. I'd like to zero for 300-400 yards which is about my effective range with iron sights.

So, at what range should one actually do the zeroing to get an accurate zero at 3-400yds? 50yds? I'm lost.

[T. O'Heir]

300-400 yards is optimistic for the 7.62 x 39. Sighted in at 100, a 125 grain hunting bullet is 6.7" low at 200 and drops like a brick to about 14.5" low at 250. Two feet low at 300.
Sighted in at 150, a 125 drops 10.4" at 250, 20" at 300 and 51" at 400.
AK sights aren't up to good accuracy either. AK's have never been made for long range accuracy. They were designed to be issued to illiterate conscripts who could be taught to use 'em as fast as possible. Accuracy wasn't an issue.
However, if you sight in that 6.7" high at 100 you'll be on target at 200. And less low farther out. There isn't enough energy left to use it for anything but paper at those distances. If you're thinking deer hunting the 7.62 x 39 is strictly an under 100 yards cartridge.

[KyleYankee]

Mine has a 20" heavy barrel and by extension a longer sight radius. I use 123gr FMJ.

It sounds like it would be easier to sight in at 300 and aim low at closer distances than to sight in at 100 and aim high (thus obstructing the entire target).

I was under the impression you could sight in at a closer range (25-75yds) and it would match the point of impact at a longer range, but I didn't know what close range corresponded to what further out.

[Ricklin]

A yard and a meter are close enough for government work.

When it comes to setting up sights 100 meters = 100 yards.

Not exactly the same but close enough for our purposes.

[Art Eatman]

A meter is 39.37 inches, which is a smidgen less than ten percent more than a yard.

Round numbers, 100 meters = 110 yards.

[Dfariswheel]

Most all AK rifles battle sight setting is the same as the 300 meter setting.

This is easy to verify. Simply set the rifle sight on the battle sight and aim at a target a few yards away.
Holding it steady, move the sight to the 300 meter setting. The two settings will be the same.

100 metes is 109 yards. That will put the metric sight off at longer ranges if you sight in at 100 yards, but few people shoot very far with the AK.

A simple way of doing this is to set up a target at 25 yards.
Set the rear sight on the 100 setting.
Shoot and adjust the FRONT sight until you're on the paper.
Then put up a target at 109 yards and zero to the center of the target.

Here's how REAL Russians sight in the AK per Russian Army instructions....

http://www.akoperatorsunionlocal4774...oing-ak-rifle/

[bamaranger]

There is a lot of chatter regards zeroing the AK (x39mm) out there and we are adding to it here. Here's my addition.....

Read the Soviet Army official procedure. What I saw as most interesting in procedure, summarized by me, is:
-shooting is done at 100M w/ the sight set on "3"
-point of impact should be 25cm (about 10") ABOVE point of aim
-the AK should shoot into a group of less than 15cm (about 6")
-move the slider to 100M and the rifle is considered zeroed for all
settings as selected

As O'Heir noted 300-400M (or yards) is a pretty optimistic goal for accurate shooting with the AK. Yes the slider goes to 800, but that is intended for area fire not select targets. If the issue AK is accepted with +6MOA accuracy by the Soviets, at 400M a group could be larger than 24" and at 800M, 48" (that is a 4 FOOT) group. I'd add that while the x39mm round is indeed a 100-200 yd deer /game cartridge, in combat terms, it is effective and lethal well past that. It certainly is dangerous to more than just paper beyond 200.

Regards the battle sight setting. It is commonly stated that if rifle is zeroed "on" at 100M, the battle sight will yield hits out to 400M. That is likely true, but the key word is HITS, and only if the target is torso sized and exposed. I suspect the battle setting is "on" at slightly less than 300M, with a center hold on an exposed torso yielding a tad low hit at 300M and lower still at 400M. My take on all of that is the battle setting is not something that the rifle is "zeroed to", but rather, the rifle is zeroed to a known distance, say 100M, and the rifle/sights are set at the battle setting to yield hits on an exposed threat over the useful combat trajectory, about 400M. (again, dangerous well past that)

Okay, so the disclaimer, I've never worked out the AK (x39mm) sight settings at the range. But I do own/hunt/ shoot 3 different x39mm rifles and one of them is an AK clone in x39mm. All wear optics now, but originally, I used two of them with the factory iron sights. Regardless, I zeroed them all "on" at 100 yds, then with irons, and now with the optics, and have left them there. Why? Because I do not shoot the rifles at most anything past 100, and a good bit at stuff under 100. The 100 zero allows me to hold on and hit at my point of aim at the distances I employ the rifle.

If you insist on a 300 (or 400, worse) "on" zero, whether with the slider markings or the battlesight, you will have to accept a midrange trajectory of about 10" -12" ABOVE your point of aim at 100 if you leave the slider at 3- or D , for routine carry. That is just not acceptable to me, but hey, it's your rifle. But I cannot imagine holding UNDER a medium sized target (say a coyote, or 12" gong" ) by more than a foot, to hit it near center when it is 100 yds away.

My advice parallels Dfaris. Get on paper shooting at 25 yd/M with the sight at "1". Refine your zero at 100Y/M with the sight still at "1". Why 100? because the AK and its ammo may not yield small enough groups beyond that to really fine tune the zero. Remember, the Soviet Army said 6MOA (5.9") was acceptable accuracy at 100M. If you want to then move the slider to battle setting, and live with it, do so, but shoot the rifle to see just how high you will be at 100 and take notice. For grins, I'd work with the slider and see just what 3-4 and D settings would give me at those extended ranges, , but I would want a solid 100 zero at "1" .

[JeepHammer]

AK battle zero was supposed to be 100 meters.
Effective accurate battle range, the width of a gas station bathroom.

Keep in mind the Soviet era BASIC firearms qualification was only 300 meters on an 18" wide target.
One thing on a AK you can be sure was never used is the long range sights!

[Dfariswheel]

The AK-47 was designed to do two things.....

1. Fire each and every time the trigger is pulled.
2. Hit a man in the chest at 300 meters.

All of them will do just that unless it's defective or poorly maintained.

I personally would add an additional design specification.....

3. Be able to withstand an illiterate peasants version of "Hold my vodka Uri, and watch this".

[agtman]

As O'Heir noted 300-400M (or yards) is a pretty optimistic goal for accurate shooting with the AK. Yes the slider goes to 800, but that is intended for area fire not select targets. If the issue AK is accepted with +6MOA accuracy by the Soviets, at 400M a group could be larger than 24" and at 800M, 48" (that is a 4 FOOT) group. * * *

Correct ... AKs weren't intended for individual accuracy, but rather the massed "group-fire" accuracy of an assault squad, and even then it's generally inside 300-meters.

The AK-47 was designed to do two things.....
1. Fire each and every time the trigger is pulled.
2. Hit a man in the chest at 300 meters.
All of them will do just that unless it's defective or poorly maintained.
I personally would add an additional design specification.....
3. Be able to withstand an illiterate peasants version of "Hold my vodka Uri, and watch this".

No.1 for sure, ...

As far as the OP's question, first just zero your AK for windage/elevation at 200yds/meters. Leave the sights set for that zero.

Then, first, go back to 100yds and shoot a group to verify where it's hitting (POI). Then go to 50-yds and shoot another group to verify POI there. You should need very little, if any, "hold-unders" to hit the black bullseye at these lesser distances. And you should be seeing shot-groups well within "minute-of-critter" or "minute-of-bad-guy."

If you think you're actually going to be taking shots on something (critter, targets, whatever) at 300-yds, you should only need a slight amount of hold-over (without sight adjustment) with a 200yd/meter Z.

[JeepHammer]

They make interesting wall hangings. Haven't found much of a use beyond that...

[jetinteriorguy]

When I first bought my Norinco AK47 back in the 80's I was actually quite amazed at its accuracy. Of course my eyesight back then was exceptionally good, but once sighted properly I could easily ring an 18" gong at 300 yds with the stock iron sights. I sure do miss those days. I miss that rifle too, bought it for $108.00 and sold it for $1100.00 when the ban hit. Then a few years later replaced it with the MAK 90 for $118.00, never really tried this one at any distance.

[Model12Win]

The x39 is a 200 yard MAX bullet on game.

No need to zero it farther.