Dirty rifle cleaning suggestions.

myshoulderissore · August 16, 2011, 04:03 PM

So i have had a Savage 111 in 7mm mag for almost a year now... It is a nice rifle, everything works, and it shoots as tiny a group as I can, however, it has an issue.

It's dirty. I bought it from my former boss, and I do believe he over-lubed it repeatedly, the bolt, action, and trigger have "baked on" oil and such on them. I haven't taken apart the bolt yet, but I am planning an intensive cleaning for it before the main hunting season opens.

Yes, it works, and works well right now, but I do not want to risk losing a nice animal and good chow due to a dirty rifle, so I am going to take it down as far as I can and clean EVERYTHING out of it.

My big question is this - What should I use to thoroughly clean it? Hoppes #9 (or similar solvents), lighter fluid, simple green and hot water? What do you recommend, and why?

Thanks in advance!

Doyle · August 16, 2011, 04:30 PM

Ordinary non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Remove the stock, tape up the optics to protect the glass and spray the crap out of it. Let it sit for a few minutes then spray again. Use a toothbrush to clean the gunk off then spray it off again. Hit it with a blast of compressed air to dry it off then rub a VERY light coating of good gun oil on all metal surfaces. You must re-lube it because the brake cleaner removes all oil from the metal pores and will leave it unprotected. Also, put a tiny film of grease (ordinary auto wheel-bearing grease is fine) on the contact surfaces of the bolt locking lugs.

spclPatrolGroup · August 16, 2011, 04:41 PM

Gun scrubber works well for removing oil, if you have or know someone who has a sonic cleaner that would work as well.

Doyle · August 16, 2011, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Gun scrubber works well for removing oil

Just so you know, the original Gun Scrubber (not the new stuff that is safer for plastics) is non-chlorinated brake cleaner - only sold for about 4 times the price.

ClydeFrog · August 16, 2011, 11:19 PM

If the rifle can safely function, I'd field strip it as much as you can(or what the firearm owner's manual allows), then spray on a lot of Birchwood Casey Gun Cleaner(or a related brand from a major firm).
Let the rifle sit and then remove all the gunk/caked on oil/dirt/dust/etc.
This may take some time & effort depending on the amount of crud on the rifle parts. A decent well made synthetic CLP like Eezox, Weaponshield, Mpro7's LPX or Gunzilla can assist you.
If the crud/dirt/oil are deep inside the firearm or you can't access all the moving parts, you may want to take it to a trained, qualified gunsmith.

If you haven't shot or checked the rifle it may not be safe to operate.
In the future, a small amount of CLP or oil is all you'd need to use on the rifle.
See here; www.Eezox.com www.Weaponshield.com www.Mpro7.com www.Brownells.com .

CF

Sport45 · August 17, 2011, 12:21 AM

Mineral Spirits, kerosene, or Ed's Red and a toothbrush should work well too.

Dr. Strangelove · August 17, 2011, 02:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doyle

Ordinary non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Remove the stock, tape up the optics to protect the glass and spray the crap out of it. Let it sit for a few minutes then spray again. Use a toothbrush to clean the gunk off then spray it off again. Hit it with a blast of compressed air to dry it off then rub a VERY light coating of good gun oil on all metal surfaces. You must re-lube it because the brake cleaner removes all oil from the metal pores and will leave it unprotected. Also, put a tiny film of grease (ordinary auto wheel-bearing grease is fine) on the contact surfaces of the bolt locking lugs.

This, but I'd dismount the scope along with the stock and then go to town with the brake cleaner.

cerberus65 · August 17, 2011, 06:25 AM

And make sure it still shoots the same after you're done cleaning it.

You never know with mechanical systems...

wogpotter · August 17, 2011, 07:57 AM

Are you sure its baked on oil? I've never heard of oil being baked onto a rifle, even with heavy use.
Could it be some kind of preservative for long-term storage?

myshoulderissore · August 17, 2011, 08:01 AM

Thanks for all the replies! One last question, I am changing my brakes out tonight, so brake cleaner is handy, as well as lighter fluid weaponshield and ATF, so I am most likely going to go the brake cleaner route, after using brake cleaner on it, do I need to rinse it off at all before lubing it? Does it leave residue?

Quote:

And make sure it still shoots the same after you're done cleaning it.

Sure thing, it's getting a new scope, also, so it needs to be re-zeroed regardless. The bore was taken care of, at least, so it shouldn't lose anything there. My only regret is that I didn't do my homework first, and get a CZ. Meh, more guns is good guns!

Dr. Strangelove · August 18, 2011, 04:38 AM

No, just let the brake cleaner dry, then oil all metal parts. The brake cleaner will leave the weapon clean but unprotected. A light coating of CLP will make the weapon happy and eager to please you during hunting season.

JACK308 · August 18, 2011, 07:46 AM

what about BALLISTOL?.

myshoulderissore · August 18, 2011, 11:36 AM

Thanks for all the help, cleaned the crap out of it last night, lubed it with weaponshield very lightly, and it is smooth and beautiful!

August 16, 2011, 04:03 PM	#1
myshoulderissore Senior Member Join Date: September 12, 2010 Location: Boise, ID Posts: 447	Dirty rifle cleaning suggestions. So i have had a Savage 111 in 7mm mag for almost a year now... It is a nice rifle, everything works, and it shoots as tiny a group as I can, however, it has an issue. It's dirty. I bought it from my former boss, and I do believe he over-lubed it repeatedly, the bolt, action, and trigger have "baked on" oil and such on them. I haven't taken apart the bolt yet, but I am planning an intensive cleaning for it before the main hunting season opens. Yes, it works, and works well right now, but I do not want to risk losing a nice animal and good chow due to a dirty rifle, so I am going to take it down as far as I can and clean EVERYTHING out of it. My big question is this - What should I use to thoroughly clean it? Hoppes #9 (or similar solvents), lighter fluid, simple green and hot water? What do you recommend, and why? Thanks in advance!

August 16, 2011, 11:19 PM	#5
ClydeFrog Junior member Join Date: May 1, 2010 Posts: 5,797	Brownells, extended firearm cleaning-oil... If the rifle can safely function, I'd field strip it as much as you can(or what the firearm owner's manual allows), then spray on a lot of Birchwood Casey Gun Cleaner(or a related brand from a major firm). Let the rifle sit and then remove all the gunk/caked on oil/dirt/dust/etc. This may take some time & effort depending on the amount of crud on the rifle parts. A decent well made synthetic CLP like Eezox, Weaponshield, Mpro7's LPX or Gunzilla can assist you. If the crud/dirt/oil are deep inside the firearm or you can't access all the moving parts, you may want to take it to a trained, qualified gunsmith. If you haven't shot or checked the rifle it may not be safe to operate. In the future, a small amount of CLP or oil is all you'd need to use on the rifle. See here; www.Eezox.com www.Weaponshield.com www.Mpro7.com www.Brownells.com . CF

August 17, 2011, 12:21 AM	#6
Sport45 Senior Member Join Date: May 25, 1999 Location: Too close to Houston Posts: 4,196	Mineral Spirits, kerosene, or Ed's Red and a toothbrush should work well too. __________________ Proud member of the NRA and Texas State Rifle Association. Registered and active voter.

August 18, 2011, 04:38 AM	#11
Dr. Strangelove Senior Member Join Date: August 1, 2008 Location: Athens, GA Posts: 1,436	No, just let the brake cleaner dry, then oil all metal parts. The brake cleaner will leave the weapon clean but unprotected. A light coating of CLP will make the weapon happy and eager to please you during hunting season. __________________ Just remember, when you pull the trigger, the bullets come out going very, very fast. So make sure to keep the weapon pointing away from you.

August 16, 2011, 04:30 PM	#2
Doyle Senior Member Join Date: June 20, 2007 Location: Rainbow City, Alabama Posts: 7,167	Ordinary non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Remove the stock, tape up the optics to protect the glass and spray the crap out of it. Let it sit for a few minutes then spray again. Use a toothbrush to clean the gunk off then spray it off again. Hit it with a blast of compressed air to dry it off then rub a VERY light coating of good gun oil on all metal surfaces. You must re-lube it because the brake cleaner removes all oil from the metal pores and will leave it unprotected. Also, put a tiny film of grease (ordinary auto wheel-bearing grease is fine) on the contact surfaces of the bolt locking lugs.

August 16, 2011, 04:41 PM	#3
spclPatrolGroup Senior Member Join Date: August 19, 2010 Location: North Dakota Posts: 349	Gun scrubber works well for removing oil, if you have or know someone who has a sonic cleaner that would work as well.

August 17, 2011, 06:25 AM	#8
cerberus65 Senior Member Join Date: April 30, 2008 Posts: 384	And make sure it still shoots the same after you're done cleaning it. You never know with mechanical systems...

August 17, 2011, 07:57 AM	#9
wogpotter Senior Member Join Date: September 27, 2004 Posts: 4,811	Are you sure its baked on oil? I've never heard of oil being baked onto a rifle, even with heavy use. Could it be some kind of preservative for long-term storage? __________________ Allan Quatermain: “Automatic rifles. Who in God's name has automatic rifles”? Elderly Hunter: “That's dashed unsporting. Probably Belgium.”

August 18, 2011, 07:46 AM	#12
JACK308 Junior member Join Date: July 10, 2011 Posts: 377	what about BALLISTOL?.

August 18, 2011, 11:36 AM	#13
myshoulderissore Senior Member Join Date: September 12, 2010 Location: Boise, ID Posts: 447	Thanks for all the help, cleaned the crap out of it last night, lubed it with weaponshield very lightly, and it is smooth and beautiful!