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Old February 14, 2020, 06:35 PM   #1
2wheelwander
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Gorilla glue removal

Dad was gifted a Contender. The PO (aging gentleman) mistakenly used gorilla glue as gun oil. No, this is not a joke. Barrel is glued down.

I'm thinking a blued gun friendly solvent and ultrasonic cleaning?

Anyone dealt with this/suggestions?
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Old February 14, 2020, 07:00 PM   #2
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Quote:
The PO (aging gentleman) mistakenly used gorilla glue as gun oil


Acetone will take just about anything off of metal. And I do mean anything.
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Old February 14, 2020, 07:02 PM   #3
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Acetone & a Q Tip should do it with a little work. From my experience that GG really isn't all that good. Just keep the acetone away from plastic / wood.

Last edited by MC 1911; February 14, 2020 at 07:09 PM.
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Old February 15, 2020, 06:28 AM   #4
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Will acetone affect the bluing I'm assuming? I'm thinking whatever breaks through the gorilla glue will require the thing to be refinished. Hoping to avoid that is possible, but there may not be a choice
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Old February 15, 2020, 07:52 AM   #5
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The acetone shouldn't hurt the bluing but don't know about the GG.
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Old February 15, 2020, 09:08 AM   #6
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The glue is just visible in the joints, it isn't smeared on my any measure. Haven't seen the inside, but the outside takes some inspection to realize it. We just know he did it. I believe he just used the glue as lube oil, not CLP.

We know because he did this to a Colt SAA in beautiful shape. Its glued up as well.
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Old February 15, 2020, 09:27 AM   #7
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How can one look the thick, gooey orange-brown glue that squeezes out of a Gorilla Glue nozzle -- and think its any kind of gun oil ?
Inquiring minds want to know . . . .
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Old February 15, 2020, 03:10 PM   #8
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Possible he was looking to render them non-functionable? On the pistol, I would remove the grips and soak it in mineral spirits and see if that helps, if not move up to acetone. If the rifle has the barrel glued to the stock you may be in for a battle. Acetone will affect the finish of the wood, you might be looking at refinishing the stock by the time you are done.
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Old February 15, 2020, 03:10 PM   #9
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Older gent whose had a stroke. Wife was not around to catch it. I believe he has a smidge of dementia. In his younger years there was nothing mechanical this guy couldn't do and a man of men. His wife does an outstanding job of honoring him and letting him be the husband, but also keeping him from making mistakes.

He got a few guns out to pet them when she was out.
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Old February 15, 2020, 03:44 PM   #10
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Seriously 2wheel
If you find something that works please post it.
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Old February 15, 2020, 04:04 PM   #11
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Uff da, poor fellow.
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Old February 15, 2020, 04:43 PM   #12
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Will do guys. Quick question, acetone in an ultrasonic cleaner??
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Old February 15, 2020, 05:02 PM   #13
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No. Typically, ultrasonic cleaners say not to use solvents in them. Get a clean paint can and pour the acetone in that, then you can cover it to avoid evaporation.
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Old February 15, 2020, 05:06 PM   #14
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I think I would try Q,Tips first. Don't think you would want that stuff in your uc.
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Old February 15, 2020, 07:08 PM   #15
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If it was Gorilla Super Glue acetone will cut it. If it was the original Gorilla Glue it is polyurethane based and will be difficult to remove. Gorilla directions say that mechanical means is the best. I would try acetone first. If that doesn't work try denatured alcohol. Both should dissolve polyurethane, not sure about the other ingredients in the glue.

The super glue dries clear. The original glue dries to a yellow color.
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Old February 15, 2020, 07:22 PM   #16
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Heat will break the bond quickly and will not hurt the bluing-as long as you don't overheat the metal.
The best way to do this would be with a small torch-not a big propane torch- just a little butane torch played carefully over the steel. Don't get near the wood, of course-the steel will transfer the heat where it needs to go.
Use heavy gloves to separate the parts.
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Old February 15, 2020, 07:56 PM   #17
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Plan #1. I bought a solution made for ultrasonic cleaners and engine parts, specifically carbs. Dad is gong to remove the wood and scope, strip it as best we can including the trigger group if possible Maybe soak it in acetone for a while then the heated solution in my cleaner.

The tank is stainless steel. I'm more concerned about my tank getting contaminated by the glue residue that hurting the machine itself. Hope to get the gun tomorrow. I'm thinking soak a gallon of acetone in a bucket of hot water to raise its temp and do my best to keep the affected parts submerged.

Of course I was looking at a blued gun, and the visible glue was minimal but it nearly appeared clear. Not the foamy yellow stuff I expected to see.
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Old February 15, 2020, 09:35 PM   #18
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Don't heat the acetone-it will just evaporate faster.
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Old February 16, 2020, 09:50 AM   #19
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if acetone doesn't dissolve the glue try lacquer thinner
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Old February 16, 2020, 10:58 AM   #20
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Keep us updated. This is new to me.
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Old February 16, 2020, 03:16 PM   #21
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Will do. Dad plans to bring it over tomorrow.
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Old February 16, 2020, 04:10 PM   #22
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You never confirmed which of the Gorilla glues it is. They make a cyanoacrylate (Super Glue), a white wood glue (water-based), and the original polyurethane glue that foams a little to fill gaps. I don't know that acetone will do much to a polymerized PU. Pure methylene chloride will probably get it over time, but it evaporates fast and you don't want to breathe the fumes. Dimethylformamide is another one. A liquid paint stripper will typically have some of these things in it, and would be one solvent to try. If there are plastic parts anywhere (sights, for example) you can expect they will be destroyed by the soaking. Wood finish, of course, will be gone. An ultrasonic will be useless unless the glue polymerization is broken up thoroughly first, at which point wiping it off may do about as much.
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Old February 16, 2020, 06:51 PM   #23
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You might want to take the same glue that he used and apply
it to something else for experimenting...just my .02 cents.
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Old February 16, 2020, 07:53 PM   #24
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Agreed the first step,if possible,would be to determine which Gorilla Glue product was used.
If you re lucky enough to have it be the Superglue type,boiling water will typically be hot enough to release it. Acetone will cut it. Nail polish remover is acetone in an oily base to retard evaporation...(or it used to be! Not real healthy)

If I was faced with your situation,I'd be taking wit customer support at Gorilla Glue. No one is going to have a better idea of the chemical properties or the key.

Realize Methylene Chloride,MEK,Acetone,etc are bad for you. They are absorbed through the skin,inhaled,etc. Seems like liver cancer is one of the problems.
They are also flammable. Burn you up flammable,like gasoline.

Find MSDS data on tis stuff and read it.

Ultrasonic cleaners AFAIK are for water based cleaners. Read the directions that come with the unit.

Obviously,dealing withma pot of hot oil varies its own dangers...like frying donuts or French fries...

But a Presto electric hot pot,or a deep fryer setup will have a thermostat that you can set at 400F or so.Its even heat,no flames or overheating

Don't put the wood in it,but you won't hrt heat treat or bluing with 400 deg peanut oil.

If you go this route,flush the peanut oil out,mabe with mineral spirits. Don't let it gum up.

I would not even try this unless Gorilla Glue suggests heat will work.

And then,plan every step,from gloves,apron,eye protection,to a padded vise,etc. Know where you re going and what you are going to do.


There are urethane marine spar varnishes and gym floor finishes. There must be some form of stripper that will cut urethane.

I had to get some black floor adhesive off concrete once. The custodial supply store offed me a soybean based solvent for removing asphalt stains.

That stuff worked remarkably well and it was not hazardous.
I foud an aircraft paint stripper designed to remove epoxy aircraft paint.
I had to strip the Aca-Glas out of a Win Hiwall forend once. The mill vise was not really an option. That paint stripper softened the AccraGlas so I could scape it off.

I'm not a chemical engineer. There are a LOT of products and processes. You can spend a lot of money and go to a lot of trouble trying things.

Hopefully,Gorrilla Glue tech help can narrow it down.

Last edited by HiBC; February 16, 2020 at 08:07 PM.
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Old February 17, 2020, 02:57 PM   #25
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Answer to your question and answer to what you meant to ask:
If this is the cyanoacrylate glue:
N,N-Dimethylformamide is the active ingredient in Super Glue Cyanoacrylate Debonder / Remover such as https://www.parts-express.com/super-...-1-oz--340-640

I used to make model airplanes back in the day and lets just say it's not that uncommon to make mistakes until you get a little more experienced and check three times, glue once, not to mention this R&D project I did gluing very expensive magnets together... I mean in to a MRI scanner sized thing so over thousands of bonds, mistakes were made.

This will work in to the glue in hard to reach places and dissolve it. I have no idea what it would do to bluing, but it's a NASTY chemical- don't touch it or breath it.

If it was me, I would listen to Bill DeShivs (above) and try gentle heat and gentle mechanical force with perhaps plastic shims first and second and third choice.

Since the metal parts were not prepped for gluing and were almost certainly mirror smooth with oil residue on them, I bet the bond to metal is very weak. A bit of hot/cold cycling and gently prying would be my first second and third tries. Patience is a virtue.

Two fears with the solvent-
1. May damage finish
2. May partially dissolve and run in to even more spaces and then harden up again resulting in even more glued area.

Put it in the freezer for a while, gentle heat, gentle force cleverly applied- patience.

Good luck!

Last edited by stinkeypete; February 17, 2020 at 03:02 PM.
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