Help with Disassembly of 10/22

The Rattler · October 24, 2020, 04:17 PM

I just bought a brand new Ruger 10/22 carbine. I shot it once and would now like to clean it by disassembling it. An Allen Screwdriver is needed to loosen the Takedown screw.

I didn't own any Allen screwdrivers, so I posted an inquiry as to what size Allen screwdriver I should buy. I've never used an Allen screwdriver before, know nothing about them, have none on hand.

One reply to my post was that it was just a standard size Allen screwdriver. Well, I don't know what that means. I did an internet search for one and found there are many sizes of Allen screwdrivers, none of them referred to as "standard."

Another reply to my post stated that it was a 5/16 size. That was consistent with an older youTube video on the 10/22. Accordingly, I ordered a 5/16 size screwdriver. To my surprise, the 5/16 size is too way too large for this gun!

Both replies were well-meaning, but I still need a correct screwdriver to take down my gun. An old youTube video states that he prefers to use a flat head screwdriver to a hex screwdriver. But that just doesn't seem right to me. If its designed for an Allen wrench, shouldn't that be what is used?

Can anyone tell me the size of Allen screwdriver I need? Or, can a flathead be safely used without risking damage? Should I just buy a kit with many sizes of Allen wrenches?

berettaprofessor · October 24, 2020, 04:33 PM

For goodness sake; just go buy one of the "multi-wrench" allen sets that come with about 8 or 10 sizes....they're not that expensive. If you take that down to clean it you're also going to need punches for the various pins btw.

10-96 · October 24, 2020, 07:15 PM

Rattler,

Starting out in firearms ownership, there are a lot of things you'll end up tinkering with. One suggestion would be to go ahead and get something like this: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...rod126530.aspx and a starter punch set maybe like this: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...rod136522.aspx These, or something similar off of Amazon will get you started on a long, fruitful, and paycheck eating journey of firearm ownership and tinkering.

zukiphile · October 24, 2020, 08:06 PM

I went cheap.

https://www.harborfreight.com/pack-o...ric+allen+keys

The Rattler · October 24, 2020, 08:14 PM

Thanks for this advice. I’m not new to firearms in that I’ve been shooting trap for 10 years and refinished the furniture on a number of shotguns. While Ive used 2 sets of punches, I’ve never had to use hex wrenches at all. But both pieces of advice y’all have are just what I was looking for.

Now for the part that’s embarrassing: I ordered the wrong size of Allen wrench. I was supposed to get a 5/32 hex wrench, but I somehow ended up with a 5/16 wrench! No wonder it was too big. I’m going to get me a set of Allen wrenches.

Thanks for encouraging me to do so.

FITASC · October 24, 2020, 08:37 PM

You really do not need to do what you're planning to do with a 10/22.............

The Rattler · October 25, 2020, 01:54 PM

FITASC, or anyone else, please expand.

“You really do not need to do what you're planning to do with a 10/22.............”

I’m used to semi auto shotguns where cleaning and lubing is important. Obviously, this isn’t a shotgun, but I’m interested in the reasons.

Thanks for your reply.

Pahoo · October 25, 2020, 03:22 PM

Quote:

I went cheap.
https://www.harborfreight.com/pack-o...ric+allen+keys

Nothing wrong with this suggestion and I would hate to count the number of Allen-Wrench sets, I own. .....

Quote:

“You really do not need to do what you're planning to do with a 10/22.............”

Yeh, I don't get it either as sooner or later, for whatever reason, you will have to take it apart. I do a number of "upgrades" because I like to tinker and make them better and it all begins with pulling the barrel. When you go to YouTube, you will find endless videos on working with 10/22's. I have lost track on how many 10/22's I have worked on.

Be Safe !!!

imashooter · October 25, 2020, 03:41 PM

Quote:

FITASC, or anyone else, please expand.

Let me help you out. If FITASC is thinking as I, the fact you post a dissertation regarding an allen screw supports the thought that perhaps you should let an experienced person perform the task for you. I say this because I couldn't resist googling to see how difficult it might be to find the necessary info. As quickly as I googled and hit the return key, I was buried in numerous hits. The first hit was incorrect regarding hex size but as I scanned perhaps 8-10, they were good to go. This doesn't even include the online images, videos, etc. There's the reason for the 'tude.

Not to worry, more and "gun owners" are frequenting these forums who should go to their local community college, etc and take a course in assorted tools and their practical application in today's world. Giving you a bit of a hard time I realize but on the plus side, this isn't nearly as asinine as the dude who recently posted regarding his complex interaction with a Colt 3-prong flash hider.

Rob228 · October 25, 2020, 03:44 PM

I got mine for Christmas in 1996, might have cleaned it three times and it has seen a LOT of use.

FITASC · October 25, 2020, 05:17 PM

Too many folks OVERclean.22lr guns; they do not require deep cleanings like you might do for a semi shotgun or heavily used semi handgun.
Spray a little cleaner down the bore, pull a CLEAN boresnake through it from the breech and wipe down the outside and call it good.

Geezerbiker · October 25, 2020, 09:02 PM

All I ever do is to run a couple wet patches down the bore with Ed's Red on them followed by a couple dry patches.

Now on semi-autos you want to take the bolt our and clean it and the surfaces it rides on. A gummed up bolt will cause sluggish firing and maybe failure to cycle. That's a bigger problem with the cheaper ammo.

Tony

T. O'Heir · October 26, 2020, 01:45 PM

"...please expand..." It's not necessary to disassemble a 10/22 or any other firearm for its BNIB cleaning. Even though we all know how much fun it is doing that. snicker.

Slopemeno · October 27, 2020, 11:33 AM

Amazon sells Bondhus allen wrenches for pretty reasonable prices. Those are reasonably high quality, and hardened, so they don't twist or round off.

I've had had a 10-22 for years. My favorite thing to do back then was to pick up a brick of cheap .22 ammo and go out and shoot till the brick was gone. Keep the chamber clean. Keep the bolt and receiver interior clean and lubed. Worry less about removing the barrel- I think I did that once over the 39 years I've owned mine.

Don't bother disassembling the trigger group.. Remove it- hose it down with diluted simple green, brush out what you can, and re-lube it.

rc · October 27, 2020, 10:59 PM

I would suggest you commit blasphemy and clean from the muzzle. It's not worth taking the barrel off the receiver every time you clean! Or run the rod down the barrel, screw on the brush and pull it up the bore. Again, don't worry about cleaning from the muzzle if you are careful about inserting the brush.

Pahoo · October 28, 2020, 10:14 AM

Quote:

I would suggest you commit blasphemy and clean from the muzzle. It's not worth taking the barrel off the receiver every time you clean!

I don't know if I would put it this way but you are correct in that you do not need to "any" disassembly if you just want to Light-Swab the bore from the breech and out the muzzle. I do so even out of the box. I also do so after and average day at the range. It's rare that you have to get too aggressive on .22 LR bores. .....

A friend of mine brought me a Target model 10/22, to do a trigger upgrade. On initial disassembly, I could not believe how filthy it was. I had to do a deep cleaning and noted that the bore wasn't all that dirty. ...

After the upgrade, I asked; when was the last time you cleaned it? He got a puzzled look on his face and replied ... Never !!!

Be Safe !!!

jmhyer · October 28, 2020, 10:15 AM

All I ever do with mine is clean the bore with some solvent on a bore snake and take an old toothbrush with solvent or CLP to the bolt face while the bolt is locked back. Then (as best I can) I get into the nooks and crannies with a cotton cloth and/or qtip. I have only disassembled it in any way once or twice for a deeper cleaning.

**44 AMP** · October 28, 2020, 12:19 PM

I would suggest you commit the other "heresy" and not worry about taking it apart to clean it.

As an experiment, one time I intentionally did not take apart my 10/22 to clean it. I would lock the bolt back, with the mag out, and wipe out what I could reach, every once in a while. I wasn't shooting it a lot, about a brick a month, or so...

After TEN YEARS the rifle had never changed its accuracy or function. The bolt never slowed down or got sluggish, I never had any feeding issues or any other function issues. Trigger pull never changes. Totally stock gun other than an extended mag release.

When I did finally decide to take it apart, yes, the insides were well coated with powder residue. To the point where the bolt made a "tunnel" in it. 3/8" thick all over everything except the bolt, the path it traveled, and the hammer. NEVER one problem.

You might have a different experience, but I think your rifle will probably stand being dirty better than being constantly taken apart and put back together. Its not a military arm designed for that.

bedlamite · October 30, 2020, 06:03 PM

I generally clean my 10/22's once a year. Never take the barrel off, toothbrush and CLP in the receiver and trigger group, lead solvent then CLP in the bore, and put it back together.

imashooter · October 31, 2020, 08:44 AM

Fun fact. I have a stainless 10/22 with composite stock. The basic one. Purchased late 80s or early 90s new. Thousands and thousands of rounds. Never ever cleaned whatsoever until 2-3 years ago. Only one malfunction (misfire) which was likely the round and not the firearm. The only mod is I added a rail and red dot about 2 years ago. It was my primary evil critter gun at night. Hundreds of kills over the years, primarily armadillos and skunks. Now I mostly use a 15-22 carbine. Hard to beat that little 10/22.

berettaprofessor · October 31, 2020, 12:21 PM

Quote:

When I did finally decide to take it apart, yes, the insides were well coated with powder residue. To the point where the bolt made a "tunnel" in it. 3/8" thick all over everything except the bolt, the path it traveled, and the hammer. NEVER one problem.

It's really neat that you can do this. But I don't want to.

**4V50 Gary** · October 31, 2020, 01:40 PM

It's not that hard to disassemble but be warned, you should make a slave pin to hold the trigger and sear together and drop into the trigger guard for reassembly

stinkeypete · October 31, 2020, 04:58 PM

I made a whole little project of free floating my barrel, putting an aluminum T pillar under the retaining bolt (getting the tension the same every assembly turned out to be very important) and while I was in there I drilled out the back of the receiver so I can clean from the breech without removing the receiver.

As said, pulling a clean bit of t-shirt tied to a string through is about all I do until at least a brick of ammo has been shot.

Slopemeno · November 1, 2020, 01:44 PM

A piece of the plastic tube from inside a cheap ballpoint pen works great to make a slave pin for the trigger group.

rc · November 1, 2020, 02:38 PM

Sometimes the pins don't come out easy when guns are new. The allen head v block screws should have a dab of blue lock tight as should any scope base screws. They can and do vibrate loose on many guns. Don't let lock tight run all over the action or it will gum things up. Mount a scope base with the bolt out so you can wipe the lock tight immediately and not have it run into the firing pin channel. As I already stated and others have agreed, you don't need to take the barrel off to clean the gun. If it was me, I'd patch the bore a few times with oil or solvent just to clean out the crud, particularly in the chamber and as a rust preventative. You don't need bore solvent every time to clean a 22. Just oil will do for a light cleaning. I would not take the trigger group apart. I would make sure the hammer stays cocked and blow it out with air if you have a compressor. A few drops of oil and call the trigger group cleaned. The biggest issue usually is to remove the bolt from the receiver and wipe out the crud from 22 blow back. Wipe the bolt off, use compressed air on it too and a tooth brush to knock off loose particles. A little bit of oil, wipe the op rod and make sure it's smooth. It is a common cause of malfunctions. Put the bolt and bolt stop back in, then drop the trigger group back in and replace the two pins. Lock the bolt back and it will keep the pins in when you put the trigger back in the stock. Otherwise they sometimes want to fall out when you want them to stay in. Make sure your safety is half way and your 3 major action pins are all in place as you slip the action back in the stock and tighten the stock screw and barrel band screws. Wipe any extra oil off the gun with a clean T shirt rag and put the gun away with a smile till your next range session. If you do light cleaning on the gun it will remain reliable for tens of thousands of rounds before you even would need to clean the inside of the trigger group more completely. That is something that should be a slow dedicated process for a more advanced newbie after you become completely comfortable with basic field stripping and assembly and decide you want to tinker with aftermarket trigger parts or something. I don't take down my trigger except for modification or a real deep cleaning. Watch a good you tube video. They are out there.

October 24, 2020, 04:17 PM	#1
The Rattler Senior Member Join Date: August 14, 2013 Posts: 111	Help with Disassembly of 10/22 I just bought a brand new Ruger 10/22 carbine. I shot it once and would now like to clean it by disassembling it. An Allen Screwdriver is needed to loosen the Takedown screw. I didn't own any Allen screwdrivers, so I posted an inquiry as to what size Allen screwdriver I should buy. I've never used an Allen screwdriver before, know nothing about them, have none on hand. One reply to my post was that it was just a standard size Allen screwdriver. Well, I don't know what that means. I did an internet search for one and found there are many sizes of Allen screwdrivers, none of them referred to as "standard." Another reply to my post stated that it was a 5/16 size. That was consistent with an older youTube video on the 10/22. Accordingly, I ordered a 5/16 size screwdriver. To my surprise, the 5/16 size is too way too large for this gun! Both replies were well-meaning, but I still need a correct screwdriver to take down my gun. An old youTube video states that he prefers to use a flat head screwdriver to a hex screwdriver. But that just doesn't seem right to me. If its designed for an Allen wrench, shouldn't that be what is used? Can anyone tell me the size of Allen screwdriver I need? Or, can a flathead be safely used without risking damage? Should I just buy a kit with many sizes of Allen wrenches?

October 24, 2020, 04:33 PM	#2
berettaprofessor Senior Member Join Date: November 23, 2008 Posts: 1,091	For goodness sake; just go buy one of the "multi-wrench" allen sets that come with about 8 or 10 sizes....they're not that expensive. If you take that down to clean it you're also going to need punches for the various pins btw. __________________ "What most people forget is that the first country the Nazi's conquered was their own." 44AMP on thefiringline.com

October 24, 2020, 07:15 PM	#3
10-96 Senior Member Join Date: October 19, 2005 Location: Tx Panhandle Territory Posts: 4,159	Rattler, Starting out in firearms ownership, there are a lot of things you'll end up tinkering with. One suggestion would be to go ahead and get something like this: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...rod126530.aspx and a starter punch set maybe like this: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...rod136522.aspx These, or something similar off of Amazon will get you started on a long, fruitful, and paycheck eating journey of firearm ownership and tinkering. __________________ Rednecks... Keeping the woods critter-free since March 2, 1836. (TX Independence Day) I suspect a thing or two... because I've seen a thing or two.

October 24, 2020, 08:06 PM	#4
zukiphile Senior Member Join Date: December 13, 2005 Posts: 4,450	I went cheap. https://www.harborfreight.com/pack-o...ric+allen+keys __________________ http://www.npboards.com/index.php

October 24, 2020, 08:37 PM	#6
FITASC Senior Member Join Date: December 6, 2014 Posts: 6,441	You really do not need to do what you're planning to do with a 10/22............. __________________ "I believe that people have a right to decide their own destinies; people own themselves. I also believe that, in a democracy, government exists because (and only so long as) individual citizens give it a 'temporary license to exist'—in exchange for a promise that it will behave itself. In a democracy, you own the government—it doesn't own you."- Frank Zappa

October 24, 2020, 08:14 PM	#5
The Rattler Senior Member Join Date: August 14, 2013 Posts: 111	Thanks for this advice. I’m not new to firearms in that I’ve been shooting trap for 10 years and refinished the furniture on a number of shotguns. While Ive used 2 sets of punches, I’ve never had to use hex wrenches at all. But both pieces of advice y’all have are just what I was looking for. Now for the part that’s embarrassing: I ordered the wrong size of Allen wrench. I was supposed to get a 5/32 hex wrench, but I somehow ended up with a 5/16 wrench! No wonder it was too big. I’m going to get me a set of Allen wrenches. Thanks for encouraging me to do so.

October 25, 2020, 01:54 PM	#7
The Rattler Senior Member Join Date: August 14, 2013 Posts: 111	FITASC, or anyone else, please expand. “You really do not need to do what you're planning to do with a 10/22.............” I’m used to semi auto shotguns where cleaning and lubing is important. Obviously, this isn’t a shotgun, but I’m interested in the reasons. Thanks for your reply.

October 25, 2020, 03:44 PM	#10
Rob228 Senior Member Join Date: May 29, 2010 Location: Hampstead NC Posts: 1,450	I got mine for Christmas in 1996, might have cleaned it three times and it has seen a LOT of use.

October 25, 2020, 05:17 PM	#11
FITASC Senior Member Join Date: December 6, 2014 Posts: 6,441	Too many folks OVERclean.22lr guns; they do not require deep cleanings like you might do for a semi shotgun or heavily used semi handgun. Spray a little cleaner down the bore, pull a CLEAN boresnake through it from the breech and wipe down the outside and call it good. __________________ "I believe that people have a right to decide their own destinies; people own themselves. I also believe that, in a democracy, government exists because (and only so long as) individual citizens give it a 'temporary license to exist'—in exchange for a promise that it will behave itself. In a democracy, you own the government—it doesn't own you."- Frank Zappa

October 25, 2020, 09:02 PM	#12
Geezerbiker Senior Member Join Date: March 20, 2011 Location: Willamina, OR Posts: 1,908	All I ever do is to run a couple wet patches down the bore with Ed's Red on them followed by a couple dry patches. Now on semi-autos you want to take the bolt our and clean it and the surfaces it rides on. A gummed up bolt will cause sluggish firing and maybe failure to cycle. That's a bigger problem with the cheaper ammo. Tony

October 26, 2020, 01:45 PM	#13
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	"...please expand..." It's not necessary to disassemble a 10/22 or any other firearm for its BNIB cleaning. Even though we all know how much fun it is doing that. snicker. __________________ Spelling and grammar count!

October 27, 2020, 11:33 AM	#14
Slopemeno Senior Member Join Date: January 19, 2007 Posts: 2,663	Amazon sells Bondhus allen wrenches for pretty reasonable prices. Those are reasonably high quality, and hardened, so they don't twist or round off. I've had had a 10-22 for years. My favorite thing to do back then was to pick up a brick of cheap .22 ammo and go out and shoot till the brick was gone. Keep the chamber clean. Keep the bolt and receiver interior clean and lubed. Worry less about removing the barrel- I think I did that once over the 39 years I've owned mine. Don't bother disassembling the trigger group.. Remove it- hose it down with diluted simple green, brush out what you can, and re-lube it.

October 27, 2020, 10:59 PM	#15
rc Senior Member Join Date: April 28, 2001 Location: CA Posts: 1,764	I would suggest you commit blasphemy and clean from the muzzle. It's not worth taking the barrel off the receiver every time you clean! Or run the rod down the barrel, screw on the brush and pull it up the bore. Again, don't worry about cleaning from the muzzle if you are careful about inserting the brush.

October 28, 2020, 10:15 AM	#17
jmhyer Senior Member Join Date: June 19, 2012 Location: MS - USA Posts: 899	All I ever do with mine is clean the bore with some solvent on a bore snake and take an old toothbrush with solvent or CLP to the bolt face while the bolt is locked back. Then (as best I can) I get into the nooks and crannies with a cotton cloth and/or qtip. I have only disassembled it in any way once or twice for a deeper cleaning.

October 28, 2020, 12:19 PM	#18
44 AMP Staff Join Date: March 11, 2006 Location: Upper US Posts: 28,817	I would suggest you commit the other "heresy" and not worry about taking it apart to clean it. As an experiment, one time I intentionally did not take apart my 10/22 to clean it. I would lock the bolt back, with the mag out, and wipe out what I could reach, every once in a while. I wasn't shooting it a lot, about a brick a month, or so... After TEN YEARS the rifle had never changed its accuracy or function. The bolt never slowed down or got sluggish, I never had any feeding issues or any other function issues. Trigger pull never changes. Totally stock gun other than an extended mag release. When I did finally decide to take it apart, yes, the insides were well coated with powder residue. To the point where the bolt made a "tunnel" in it. 3/8" thick all over everything except the bolt, the path it traveled, and the hammer. NEVER one problem. You might have a different experience, but I think your rifle will probably stand being dirty better than being constantly taken apart and put back together. Its not a military arm designed for that. __________________ All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better.

October 30, 2020, 06:03 PM	#19
bedlamite Senior Member Join Date: August 10, 2000 Location: WI Posts: 1,395	I generally clean my 10/22's once a year. Never take the barrel off, toothbrush and CLP in the receiver and trigger group, lead solvent then CLP in the bore, and put it back together. __________________ A plan is just a list of things that doesn't happen.

October 31, 2020, 08:44 AM	#20
imashooter Senior Member Join Date: December 28, 2013 Location: Alabama Posts: 395	Fun fact. I have a stainless 10/22 with composite stock. The basic one. Purchased late 80s or early 90s new. Thousands and thousands of rounds. Never ever cleaned whatsoever until 2-3 years ago. Only one malfunction (misfire) which was likely the round and not the firearm. The only mod is I added a rail and red dot about 2 years ago. It was my primary evil critter gun at night. Hundreds of kills over the years, primarily armadillos and skunks. Now I mostly use a 15-22 carbine. Hard to beat that little 10/22.

October 31, 2020, 01:40 PM	#22
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,832	It's not that hard to disassemble but be warned, you should make a slave pin to hold the trigger and sear together and drop into the trigger guard for reassembly __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

October 31, 2020, 04:58 PM	#23
stinkeypete Senior Member Join Date: July 22, 2010 Location: Madison, Wisconsin Posts: 1,292	I made a whole little project of free floating my barrel, putting an aluminum T pillar under the retaining bolt (getting the tension the same every assembly turned out to be very important) and while I was in there I drilled out the back of the receiver so I can clean from the breech without removing the receiver. As said, pulling a clean bit of t-shirt tied to a string through is about all I do until at least a brick of ammo has been shot. __________________ My book "The Pheasant Hunter's Action Adventure Cookbook" is now on Amazon. Tall tales, hunting tips, butchering from bird to the freezer, and recipes.

November 1, 2020, 01:44 PM	#24
Slopemeno Senior Member Join Date: January 19, 2007 Posts: 2,663	A piece of the plastic tube from inside a cheap ballpoint pen works great to make a slave pin for the trigger group.

November 1, 2020, 02:38 PM	#25
rc Senior Member Join Date: April 28, 2001 Location: CA Posts: 1,764	Sometimes the pins don't come out easy when guns are new. The allen head v block screws should have a dab of blue lock tight as should any scope base screws. They can and do vibrate loose on many guns. Don't let lock tight run all over the action or it will gum things up. Mount a scope base with the bolt out so you can wipe the lock tight immediately and not have it run into the firing pin channel. As I already stated and others have agreed, you don't need to take the barrel off to clean the gun. If it was me, I'd patch the bore a few times with oil or solvent just to clean out the crud, particularly in the chamber and as a rust preventative. You don't need bore solvent every time to clean a 22. Just oil will do for a light cleaning. I would not take the trigger group apart. I would make sure the hammer stays cocked and blow it out with air if you have a compressor. A few drops of oil and call the trigger group cleaned. The biggest issue usually is to remove the bolt from the receiver and wipe out the crud from 22 blow back. Wipe the bolt off, use compressed air on it too and a tooth brush to knock off loose particles. A little bit of oil, wipe the op rod and make sure it's smooth. It is a common cause of malfunctions. Put the bolt and bolt stop back in, then drop the trigger group back in and replace the two pins. Lock the bolt back and it will keep the pins in when you put the trigger back in the stock. Otherwise they sometimes want to fall out when you want them to stay in. Make sure your safety is half way and your 3 major action pins are all in place as you slip the action back in the stock and tighten the stock screw and barrel band screws. Wipe any extra oil off the gun with a clean T shirt rag and put the gun away with a smile till your next range session. If you do light cleaning on the gun it will remain reliable for tens of thousands of rounds before you even would need to clean the inside of the trigger group more completely. That is something that should be a slow dedicated process for a more advanced newbie after you become completely comfortable with basic field stripping and assembly and decide you want to tinker with aftermarket trigger parts or something. I don't take down my trigger except for modification or a real deep cleaning. Watch a good you tube video. They are out there.